Highest quality custom trench coats?

[Bigbenbs]

Hi all,

After a bit of reflection on the idea of purchasing a leather overcoat, I've started leaning back toward the idea of an ultra high-quality trench coat. But I've quickly run into a problem. There do not seem to be any custom trench coat makers on part with the custom leather jacket makers (e.g., Aero, Eastman, Lost Worlds, and so on). The only exception here is Lost Worlds, which has a cotton riders coat, that I admit is quite beautiful, but is not quite the style I'm looking for (http://www.lostworldsinc.com/Vintage_Riders_Trench_Coat.htm).

Of course, I know that Burberry, Aquascutum, and Grenfell make very high-quality trench coats. But I get the sense that you are paying a lot more money here for brands than for pure quality.

I've read some people talk about how the vintage Grenfell and Invertere trench coats were the best ever made. But I feel like there has to be some small organization out there that is doing custom jobs of the same caliber today.

So if you know anything about it, please let me know.

 

[zebedee]

A full-on trench coat might be a bit too much- what would you be wearing it with? Overcoats could be just the ticket...

Harris Tweed will do a custom overcoat. The majority of tailors could make one. I have a Donegal tweed overcoat in a brown flecked tweed which is fantastic quality; covert coats are made by various manufacturers who will usually alter sleeve length but then not take returns. Walker Slater do some nice ones- the main thing is to go for 100% wool if you're a purist because the polyester blends (although technically harder-wearing) may go somewhat shiny after a few years' use. Also look at House of Bruar as they sometimes have very good deals. Googling 'covert coat' will give you a good selection of quality and price ranges- personally, I'd avoid cashmere blends.

If you want a leather coat, I'd go with a Stockman in black FQHH.

 

[zebedee]

I ordered a 100% wool, treated navy overcoat from Charles Tyrwhitt which, apart from feeling a bit 'tough', is great- about 200 GBP and waterproof. A whole custom coat for a garment that goes over a suit seems redundant unless you have a very particular frame (long arms or short arms, for example), but, again, a tailor can make those kind of alterations for not much money.

 

[Lukasz69]

Have a look at the Ventile Mac 3.0 from Private White V.C. Not custom and technically not a trench, but I’d be surprised if you found the quality anything below ultra.

 

[belfastboy]

A full-on trench coat might be a bit too much- what would you be wearing it with? Overcoats could be just the ticket...

Harris Tweed will do a custom overcoat. The majority of tailors could make one. I have a Donegal tweed overcoat in a brown flecked tweed which is fantastic quality; covert coats are made by various manufacturers who will usually alter sleeve length but then not take returns. Walker Slater do some nice ones- the main thing is to go for 100% wool if you're a purist because the polyester blends (although technically harder-wearing) may go somewhat shiny after a few years' use. Also look at House of Bruar as they sometimes have very good deals. Googling 'covert coat' will give you a good selection of quality and price ranges- personally, I'd avoid cashmere blends.

If you want a leather coat, I'd go with a Stockman in black FQHH.

Check out TweedyDon here in the classified ads. He has some great vintage trench coars for super pricing

 

[Seb Lucas]

That Private White stuff is lovely.

You can probably buy a second hand or NOS military ovecoat for under $50 in immaculate condiction. I personally won't pay big money for an overcoat when there are so many spectacular vintage choices.

I use an unissued, grey German airforce overcoat which is a thick wool gabardine. Cost me $35. It is as well made as any 1950's overcoat.

I would never wear a leather overcoat on account of the weight. They are not very practical and when you hang them up in places, they often get stolen. I had one in the 1980's and was always trying to stash the cumbersome thing somewhere whenever I got out of the cold. A gabardine version rolls up into a small ball and can be carried or stored with ease.

The only other option you haven't considered - and this may not be the look you are after - is a waxed cotton overcoat. Has some of the look and qualities of leather without the weight.

 

[Edward]

If you are looking for a traditional trench coat that will keep the rain off while also bing capable of serving as a Winter overcoat by virtue of having a removable, wool liner, there are two options that spring to mind:

1] What Price Glory's 'early style trenchcoat' http://ww2-militaria-reproduction.com/products/5042-Early-Style-Trench-Coat-For-US-Clients-only/ - every bit as good as a Burberry or Grenfell, at a fraction of the price

2] Deadstock US Army AG44 officer's coat - see e.g. https://www.armynavysales.com/ag-44-wool-gabardine-overcoat-with-liner-ag44-825.html These are beautiful; I bought a second one after my first got damaged, and am considering buying a third to mothball just in case anything happens to my current one, especially given that they aren't making any more of them so price will most likely go up eventually. As long as you're okay with green - and it's a pleasant forest green that doesn't scream military to my eyes - these are fantastic coats. First issued in, from memory, 1961, but in a civilian context look much older, much more 40s. You'd have to pay out serious money to equate this on the civilian market now. I wore mine in a chill ZAgreb in November a few years ago, and it was great (worn open quite a lot of the time, actually).

There are also the SJC raincoats, a sb, more 20s design - again, lovely, though perhaps not what you're looking for if you want a traditional DB trenchcoat look.