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High rise tapered selvedge jeans

Bigbenbs

A-List Customer
Messages
339
Hi all,

I'm looking for a pair of high rise selvedge jeans but that have a nice taper blow the knee. I like very much the fit of the APC jeans standard from the knee up but want something more narrow below the knee. I actually like the petite new standard below the knee (I'm in Belgium so that's my reference point). Problem is that most high rise jeans also have a straight fit throughout the rest of the leg.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 

Cocker

Practically Family
Messages
633
Location
Belgium
High rise and taper below the knees? Wouldn't that look a bit too much like a ladie's trousers??
 

Mich486

One Too Many
Messages
1,690
You can try on the Levi’s vintage clothing 1954 501xx.

If you are used to wear skinny jeans though they still might feel loose around the ankle.

As an aside, I find that while a longer inseam works on slim/skinny cuts it doesn’t on fuller cut jeans which benefit from a more dress pant style length and a cuff.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

robrinay

One Too Many
Messages
1,490
Location
Sheffield UK
Why not buy a pair of selvedge high rise jeans and have them tapered to ‘your choice’ by a tailor or seamstress?
In non selvedge you might take a look at Levi’s 511’s skinnyfit or in selvedge Lee 101 rider lot no 49 narrow loom Selvedge.
 

Bigbenbs

A-List Customer
Messages
339
Why not buy a pair of selvedge high rise jeans and have them tapered to ‘your choice’ by a tailor or seamstress?
In non selvedge you might take a look at Levi’s 511’s skinnyfit or in selvedge Lee 101 rider lot no 49 narrow loom Selvedge.

Is that the kind of alteration that can be done fairly well?
 

robrinay

One Too Many
Messages
1,490
Location
Sheffield UK
Is that the kind of alteration that can be done fairly well?
Yes a seamstress will pin the seams to your liking and make a taper by reducing both seams (and leave enough of an opening to get your foot out;)), In the north of the U.K. an alteration like this would cost around £20 or less.
 

Bigbenbs

A-List Customer
Messages
339
Yes a seamstress will pin the seams to your liking and make a taper by reducing both seams (and leave enough of an opening to get your foot out;)), In the north of the U.K. an alteration like this would cost around £20 or less.

Teriffic.
 
Messages
11,165
Location
SoCal
Just tried on Nudie Jeans CO. In their Dude Dan cut. I think they are what you're looking for. Nice rise (not super high, but nice and comfy like my 505s with slim legs (7" hem width- or so).
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,427
Location
Glasgow
Big fan of Nudies back in the day. Personally, I go with the classic vintage fit for my jeans - wide leg and high waist - and find them far more flattering than skinny types. I think people have visions of the 80s pants when they think of high waist jeans - I had a pair that were ridiculous: the tapering was so steep they almost curved in at the bottom! I recommend a pair of Freddies of Pinewood as a starter (very reasonable) or Lee 101B vintage, both are a really nice comfortable jean that flatter the wearer.
 

Cocker

Practically Family
Messages
633
Location
Belgium
As a starter for vintage classic fit at a great price, you can't go wrong with Lutece MFG. I'm in love with mine!
 

Bfd70

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,321
Location
Traverse city
Just bought a new pair of Rogue Territory “Standard Issue.”
They call them mid-rise but if you look attheir numbers on the site i think you’ll find they are what pass for high these days.
 

Bigbenbs

A-List Customer
Messages
339
So I just discovered that Unbranded and Naked and Famous make jeans for guys sized like me. It's called relaxed tapered for Unbranded and Easy Guy for Naked and Famous. It's specifically modeled for guys who "lift," which is to say narrow waists, big butts and thighs, and want of a taper below the knee.

I just got a pair of the naked and famous left hand twill in the easy guy fit and they look great. I still might get a bit of fabric taken out from the knee and calf however.

But also really like the high rise. Fits well under my leather Mc jacket and also takes pressure off the crotch fabric.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Big fan of Nudies back in the day. Personally, I go with the classic vintage fit for my jeans - wide leg and high waist - and find them far more flattering than skinny types. I think people have visions of the 80s pants when they think of high waist jeans - I had a pair that were ridiculous: the tapering was so steep they almost curved in at the bottom! I recommend a pair of Freddies of Pinewood as a starter (very reasonable) or Lee 101B vintage, both are a really nice comfortable jean that flatter the wearer.

I tend to agree myself; the only time I've ever had an issue with my jeans being "too wide" was the time I went to a Sixties theme party as a Rocker; it was a nightmare trying to get my wide-leg jeans *inside* the MC boots (of course, that aspect of my costume was inaccurate, but damned if I was going to spend on a pair of sixties cut jeans I'd never otherwise wear for a one-of!).

My top picks at the 'budget' quality denims are:

1] Prison Blues - not selvedge, but if that doesn't matter to you (and if you don't cuff them, no-one will ever know anyhow), these are fantastic, hardwearing 13.75oz with a great ethical project behind them.

2] Soldier of Fortune - www.sofmilitary.co.uk - look in the reenactor / repop section for USN 'deck' jeans. The re-enactor crowd have rubbished them for USN accuracy, but for about GBP50, you'll get a cracking pair of 14oz selvedge denim jeans that are at least as good as the Freddies (now GBP100). The big plus is that the wider-leg 40s version in SoF comes with the back buckle in a place where it can't get in the way if you want to wear a belt - they also don't have the studs for braces that get in the way of a belt like on the Freddies 40s. They also do a model without the back buckle. A third variation, billed as 30s, is actually very similar to the 50s cut Freddies. They're inferior to my SJCs by a long way, however if you just want a pair of period-cut jeans to kick about in or actually wear as workwear, they're perfectly adequate.

So I just discovered that Unbranded and Naked and Famous make jeans for guys sized like me. It's called relaxed tapered for Unbranded and Easy Guy for Naked and Famous. It's specifically modeled for guys who "lift," which is to say narrow waists, big butts and thighs, and want of a taper below the knee.

I just got a pair of the naked and famous left hand twill in the easy guy fit and they look great. I still might get a bit of fabric taken out from the knee and calf however.

But also really like the high rise. Fits well under my leather Mc jacket and also takes pressure off the crotch fabric.

Keep wearing them for awhile before you decide on the taper - you might find you grow to prefer the wider leg. Clearly you've discovered the vast improvement in comfort that a higher waist affords! I could never go back to anything less than a 13£ rise now, and even that is pushing it....
 

Bigbenbs

A-List Customer
Messages
339
I tend to agree myself; the only time I've ever had an issue with my jeans being "too wide" was the time I went to a Sixties theme party as a Rocker; it was a nightmare trying to get my wide-leg jeans *inside* the MC boots (of course, that aspect of my costume was inaccurate, but damned if I was going to spend on a pair of sixties cut jeans I'd never otherwise wear for a one-of!).

My top picks at the 'budget' quality denims are:

1] Prison Blues - not selvedge, but if that doesn't matter to you (and if you don't cuff them, no-one will ever know anyhow), these are fantastic, hardwearing 13.75oz with a great ethical project behind them.

2] Soldier of Fortune - www.sofmilitary.co.uk - look in the reenactor / repop section for USN 'deck' jeans. The re-enactor crowd have rubbished them for USN accuracy, but for about GBP50, you'll get a cracking pair of 14oz selvedge denim jeans that are at least as good as the Freddies (now GBP100). The big plus is that the wider-leg 40s version in SoF comes with the back buckle in a place where it can't get in the way if you want to wear a belt - they also don't have the studs for braces that get in the way of a belt like on the Freddies 40s. They also do a model without the back buckle. A third variation, billed as 30s, is actually very similar to the 50s cut Freddies. They're inferior to my SJCs by a long way, however if you just want a pair of period-cut jeans to kick about in or actually wear as workwear, they're perfectly adequate.



Keep wearing them for awhile before you decide on the taper - you might find you grow to prefer the wider leg. Clearly you've discovered the vast improvement in comfort that a higher waist affords! I could never go back to anything less than a 13£ rise now, and even that is pushing it....

So much more comfortable, I can't imagine going back. But also the big thing for me is realizing that if I want a taper I'll just have to get the waist and thigh right and then pay for a tailor to adjust things below the knee.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I'm too slim for wide leg jeans - they flap around like giant sails. I am tall with a 32 in waist so I get the slim version of the classic $25 Wrangler 13MWZ.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
I also tried on A pair of Flat Head 30oz denims...
Not sure if they count as fabric...more like cardboard o_O

Yeesh, that's hardcore!

As a starter for vintage classic fit at a great price, you can't go wrong with Lutece MFG. I'm in love with mine!

Those are the German ones aren't they? I have a half-remembered notion that's who makes the Soldier of Fortune ones.
 

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