High Notch Leathers (House brand) Izumiya clothing store (Retail store)

[Canuck Panda]

High Notch Leathers is a house brand from Japan. Not very active right now. But there are jackets on the second hand market.
Izumiya is the retail store that owns this brand. This store also carries other brands like Toys Mccoy and Freewheelers.

Here is my High Notch leathertog, NOS from maybe 12 to 15 years ago. Not quite sure.

This was the largest size I could find and still a bit small. But until I find a larger one this stays. Very cool leathertog design.

Believe or not this jacket was on Mecari for mere ¥30000, the guy didn't know what he had. Someone bought it and flipped it on Yahoo Auction to me at just over 2.5 times. Still worth it to me. I can't find a jacket like this for about $600.

If you buy used stuff from Japan, don't shy away from High Notch. Very high quality.

 

[Jasonissm]

Nice, the jacket looks pretty good and the fit looks good aesthetically. Stitching is very precise on the cuff, nice pick up!

I can rarely snag those Mercari steals because the lag with the proxy ordering, but seeing the "sold" listings makes me very jealous lol

 

[ton312]

The fit on this is superb! Leather and build look great. Patch pockets with cafe collar are an absolute no for me. I just don’t like the combo. With a dress collar I’d give this a 10/10. I know there is some historical precedent for patch pocket CR’s but it seems just plain weird to me. It’s like that LW type III with the cafe collar. Just can’t accept it.

All that aside this one fits you beautifully and does look quite good. You certainly seem committed to the deep dive in Japanese outerwear!

 

[Jasonissm]

The fit on this is superb! Leather and build look great. Patch pockets with cafe collar are an absolute no for me. I just don’t like the combo. With a dress collar I’d give this a 10/10. I know there is some historical precedent for patch pocket CR’s but it seems just plain weird to me. It’s like that LW type III with the cafe collar. Just can’t accept it.

All that aside this one fits you beautifully and does look quite good. You certainly seem committed to the deep dive in Japanese outerwear!

Here's the original, both the belt and the pockets. This is the jacket that Freewheelers saw and ended up making a fantasy jacket instead for their Leathertogs cafe racer.

Real McCoys and Heller's Cafe also make/made versions of the original. I didn't like it at first, but I dig how the pockets look when jacket is worn open/unzipped.

 

[Aloysius]

Looks like a High Notch jacket was posted here before, when they did a stunning Cal repro.

Incidentally, I really love that shade of mouton. RMC uses it too. I’m not sure what it’s called. Haven’t really seen similar on non-Japanese jackets but no reason why they wouldn’t be able to do it. I’m assuming it’s regional tone preference.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Looks like a High Notch jacket was posted here before, when they did a stunning Cal repro.

Incidentally, I really love that shade of mouton. RMC uses it too. I’m not sure what it’s called. Haven’t really seen similar on non-Japanese jackets but no reason why they wouldn’t be able to do it. I’m assuming it’s regional tone preference.

There is an used one now (that Cal repro), a bit expensive though:
https://shop.izumi-ya.jp/products/detail/187

High Notch/Izumiya guy really is a leather repair shop that carries others stuff for sale. Like a shoe cobbler that carrys Birkenstocks in his store. Except High Notch is his own Birkenstocks. Not sure if he makes them himself or contracts it out. They're usually not very expensive on the used market because he is not a big name brand. But his stuff is extremely high quality.

He is on Instagram under the name "ufield13", and he posts his repair photos. Very cool, from vintage repairs to repro repairs and everything in between.

 

[Damon141]

There is an used one now (that Cal repro), a bit expensive though:
https://shop.izumi-ya.jp/products/detail/187

High Notch/Izumiya guy really is a leather repair shop that carries others stuff for sale. Like a shoe cobbler that carrys Birkenstocks in his store. Except High Notch is his own Birkenstocks. Not sure if he makes them himself or contracts it out. They're usually not very expensive on the used market because he is not a big name brand. But his stuff is extremely high quality.

He is on Instagram under the name "ufield13", and he posts his repair photos. Very cool, from vintage repairs to repro repairs and everything in between.

If you like precise stitching then these two examples should impress anyone, the first stitch line along the zipper tape on the cafe racer is so close to the edge.

They Cal looks like it fits closer to originals without the overly slimmer sleeves

 

[Damon141]

Just venting but When I see perfect work like this it makes me feel like I was fed a line of bullshit, I was told that handmade custom jackets will have imperfections because of they are constructed, one off by a single person versus off the rack which can be made in pieces by different craftsmen in sections.

Clearly this High Notch company isn't large but yet they manage to produce clean work.

Obviously there are differences in skill levels but you shouldn't charge top dollar if you can't deliver perfectly executed work, I mean it when I say top dollar.

Their pockets vs mine

 

[Observe]

Just venting but When I see perfect work like this it makes me feel like I was fed a line of bullshit, I was told that handmade custom jackets will have imperfections because of they are constructed, one off by a single person versus off the rack which can be made in pieces by different craftsmen in sections.

Clearly this High Notch company isn't large but yet they manage to produce clean work.

Obviously there are differences in skill levels but you shouldn't charge top dollar if you can't deliver perfectly executed work, I mean it when I say top dollar.

Their pockets vs mine
View attachment 506985 View attachment 506986 View attachment 506987 View attachment 506988

Is your jacket with the sloppy stitching the same maker?

Edit: seems based on replies it's a Himel.

 

[red devil]

you shouldn't charge top dollar if you can't deliver perfectly executed work

This a hundred times! Unfortunately some makers take advantage of their customers....

 

[ton312]

Just venting but When I see perfect work like this it makes me feel like I was fed a line of bullshit, I was told that handmade custom jackets will have imperfections because of they are constructed, one off by a single person versus off the rack which can be made in pieces by different craftsmen in sections.

Clearly this High Notch company isn't large but yet they manage to produce clean work.

Obviously there are differences in skill levels but you shouldn't charge top dollar if you can't deliver perfectly executed work, I mean it when I say top dollar.

Their pockets vs mine
View attachment 506985 View attachment 506986 View attachment 506987 View attachment 506988

This type of work wouldn't pass Aero's apprentice level QC. That's just plain sloppy! Is it fair to assume this is your Himel?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Just venting but When I see perfect work like this it makes me feel like I was fed a line of bullshit, I was told that handmade custom jackets will have imperfections because of they are constructed, one off by a single person versus off the rack which can be made in pieces by different craftsmen in sections.

Clearly this High Notch company isn't large but yet they manage to produce clean work.

Obviously there are differences in skill levels but you shouldn't charge top dollar if you can't deliver perfectly executed work, I mean it when I say top dollar.

Their pockets vs mine
View attachment 506985 View attachment 506986 View attachment 506987 View attachment 506988

Look on the bright side, your Himel jacket fits you extremely well. And you're not an easy guy to fit.

But yes, for his asking price, the machine job could've been better. His machinist could have simply taken the extra 5 minutes to hide the back locking stitches. Whatever is causing this stress level in his shop he needs to figure it out. Either give the machinist more time to do the jacket or somehow lessen their stress level. Happy worker happy boss.

 

[ton312]

Look on the bright side, your Himel jacket fits you extremely well. And you're not an easy guy to fit.

But yes, for his asking price, the machine job could've been better. His machinist could have simply taken the extra 5 minutes to hide the back locking stitches. Whatever is causing this stress level in his shop he needs to figure it out. Either give the machinist more time to do the jacket or somehow lessen their stress level. Happy worker happy boss.

Fairly certain he could’ve achieved every bit the fit from most makers at half the cost. I won’t start another sh!t storm. No need. Pictures say it all.

 

[Damon141]

It does fit well which is a gamble going custom, I definitely agree that it could have been achieved at a lower price, i could have even had a Goodwear J100 for $1,500.



Like mentioned, I wonder if the sole machinist is under pressure trying to put out jackets in the advertised 6 week period or close to it, or if they just don't have the steady hand necessary.

From afar you don't really notice it though, I'm going to post some more pictures on his thread because I honestly think people should know what to expect. It's really not fair considering the price and knowledge of what is achievable.

 

[ton312]

It does fit well which is a gamble going custom, I definitely agree that it could have been achieved at a lower price, i could have even had a Goodwear J100 for $1,500.



Like mentioned, I wonder if the sole machinist is under pressure trying to put out jackets in the advertised 6 week period or close to it, or if they just don't have the steady hand necessary.

From afar you don't really notice it though, I'm going to post some more pictures on his thread because I honestly think people should know what to expect. It's really not fair considering the price and knowledge of what is achievable.

Indeed. What strikes me most is that a relative newcomer, @regius was able to deliver to me a jacket that is absolutely perfectly stitched. Granted I did not rush him and he isn't (or at least wasn't) operating under the same level of pressure. I'm not at stitch count queen, I don't care how many per inch. I only expect reasonable, straight and clean work.

I'd also add that not a single one of my Aero jackets ever had this level of botched stitching. It's only a big deal b/c the cost was so high and the expectation on your part was set accordingly. Although, if you paid less, say $500, would you be any less disappointed? Probably not. It's just not good work and that's all there is to it.

Also Damon, you should post here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/himel-brothers-leather.69738/page-9
It will be of greater benefit to those seeking this maker out in it's brand related thread.

 

[Damon141]

Thank you Ton, I actually searched that thread and it eluded me.

 

[JMax]

Just venting but When I see perfect work like this it makes me feel like I was fed a line of bullshit, I was told that handmade custom jackets will have imperfections because of they are constructed, one off by a single person versus off the rack which can be made in pieces by different craftsmen in sections.

Clearly this High Notch company isn't large but yet they manage to produce clean work.

Obviously there are differences in skill levels but you shouldn't charge top dollar if you can't deliver perfectly executed work, I mean it when I say top dollar.

Their pockets vs mine
View attachment 506985 View attachment 506986 View attachment 506987 View attachment 506988

The bottom pic is really just a bespoke stitch. One of a kind and put there because during his process he realized that due to your large, shapely chest and body movements, extra stitching was required. You good man. Enjoy.

Seriously though, the jacket does look great on you. Hopefully that overcomes the issues you and most have with the stitching. I do see how it can be an eyesore.

Stitching doesn’t bother me. In this case Simple Jack wins!

 

[red devil]

Look on the bright side, your Himel jacket fits you extremely well. And you're not an easy guy to fit.

But yes, for his asking price, the machine job could've been better. His machinist could have simply taken the extra 5 minutes to hide the back locking stitches. Whatever is causing this stress level in his shop he needs to figure it out. Either give the machinist more time to do the jacket or somehow lessen their stress level. Happy worker happy boss.

You can good fits from quite a few other makers.

I guess the pressure might come from how he treats his employees indeed, I still remember when he blamed the guy that worked under him and quit later - forgot his name - about the QC issues that some members had here.

And then we are told we are being unfair and closed minded in criticising Himel lol

 

[Poltung]

Hello there fellow loungers,

Nice to meet you!
I've been lurking around for a month or so now and my account has recently been allowed into the forum.
What a vast amount of leather jacket knowledge!

I found this thread because of Cordva_no's posts on IG, as Izumiya's jacket caught my eye.
@Canuck Panda how would you compare it to other better known brands, construction-wise and leather-wise?

Thanks from France!

Edit: typo

 

[Canuck Panda]

Hello there fellow loungers,

Nice to meet you!
I've been lurking around for a month or so now and my account has recently been allowed into the forum.
What a vast amount of leather jacket knowledge!

I found this thread because of Cordva_no's posts on IG, as Izumiya's jacket caught my eye.
@Canuck Panda how would you compare it to other better known brands, construction-wise and leather-wise?

Thanks from France!

Edit: typo

Cordva_no is also where I found out about High Notch Mfg brand. He has very curated nice collection of jackets. Cream of the crop.
I rate very highly of my High Notch jacket. It is on par with the other brands he carries in his store, FW, TM, Cushman. However, I read through his web page in translation again and it doesn't seem like he is making jackets now, just repairs. I could be wrong.
Since High Notch Mfg brand doesn't have much marketing exposure, their used prices are very low, but quality is very high.
There is an used basic half belt on Mecari now for ¥40,000. IMO it's a banging deal for the quality.
https://jp.mercari.com/item/m27414772426