Hideki Okisaka: Master '30s tailor !

[herringbonekid]

let's face it: he's nailed the 30s european trouser look.

oh Mr.Okisaka, why do you have to live so far away and be so fervently non-english speaking ? [huh]

 

[pchong]

i just noticed that in an earlier post in this thread pchong states that Mr. Okisaka is NOT a tailor but a designer. i presume then he gets his suits made up by someone else. this could mean that he might not be willing to alter the proportions of his suits, after all they are his designs, not made to a customers requests.

Aye, yes...he confessed that he is not a tailor, nor a cutter. But merely a designer...gifted, methinks. He told me, he freely interpretes the 30s style, though has strong affinity to it.

 

[Senator Jack]

Mytailor can and will copy. Will report back on progress.

 

[Senator Jack]

I'm going over to see Hemrajani today about copying the db suit. What do we think the vents are - none? single? double?

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Mr. Rover]

I'm going over to see Hemrajani today about copying the db suit. What do we think the vents are - none? single? double?

Regards,

Senator Jack

GQ is a load of hot air- Go with NO VENTS!
I have a DB jacket that fits absolutely PERFECT on me...but it doesn't have any pants. Perhaps I should send it to mytailor with a pair of a pants that I like and have their fit copied into a full suit?

 

[geo]

I'm going over to see Hemrajani today about copying the db suit. What do we think the vents are - none? single? double?

No vents or double vents. Never ever a single vent on a DB.

 

[WEEGEE]

Double or nothing

geo

No vents or double vents. Never ever a single vent on a DB.

*

Thats what I was thinking.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

no vents is my personal preference ...

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Never ever a single vent on a DB.

Sorry, but that isn't true.

Double-breasted suits from 1900 until the mid-1920s nearly always had a single vent.

Rent some Harold Lloyd silent comedies and you'll see what I mean.

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[geo]

Then they suddenly realized in the mid-20s that the suits had been wrong for 2 decades! Seriously, DB suits of the time were cut differently, more along narrow vertical lines, which went better with a single vent. I didn't mean to say that it was never done, I mean it is never done today, or if it is, it's wrong.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Seriously, DB suits of the time were cut differently, more along narrow vertical lines, which went better with a single vent.

True for DB suits in certain years. DB suit jackets in the early 1900s were indeed cut along vertical lines and were slightly narrow. Then, from 1908 to around 1915, DB (and SB) suit jackets became freakishly boxy. During World War I, they started to have "narrow vertical lines" again. In the early 1920s, DB jackets remained narrow, but had a flaring, military-style skirt. Throughout all of these changes, the DB jacket retained its single vent.

I didn't mean to say that it was never done, I mean it is never done today, or if it is, it's wrong.

True, it's not done today, but it was done in the '70s, which wasn't all that long ago. It may be "wrong" today ... but as soon as Ralph Lauren decides to change that, GQ and Esquire will be falling all over themselves telling us how "right" it is.

.

 

[Matt Deckard]

All vents are wrong. Unless I need to ride a horse, then a double is what I prefer.

 

[Senator Jack]

I went with a double vent. I wore a 40s vintage no-vent to the fitting and it had me vacillating. I do like the jauntiness of walking the city with my hands in my pockets, and this is definitely going to be a walking suit. I went with a 120s flannel that we believed would give it authenticity - black with white pinstripe. I had him put the suspender buttons on the inside and we went with the single pleat and dart trousers. Hopefully, I'll have it in time for the QM.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Wild Root]

Fred Astaire wore double vents on most of his suits... I'm not a fan of vents on DB's my self... I walk with my hands in pockets most of the time and find it's fine with out vents. I wouldn't have had vents put in but, if you decide not to have them, you can always have them closed.

The vent less look is a more common 30's or 40's look... my self, I like it most... the double vent to me seems like a bomb bay door from a B-17 on the back of a coat! lol

Sorry, just how it grabs me.

=WR=

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Fred Astaire wore double vents on most of his suits.

Very true, but we must take into account that he danced pretty energetically in them. The man really needed vents.


Some '30s suit jackets were indeed made with vents, both single and double. These vents were smaller than those on today's jackets, but not as small as the vents on early '60s jackets.


.

 

[Wild Root]

Very true, but we must take into account that he danced pretty energetically in them. The man really needed vents.


Some '30s suit jackets were indeed made with vents, both single and double. These vents were smaller than those on today's jackets, but not as small as the vents on early '60s jackets.


.

Yes, indeed, he did need them to dance in. In the 1936 film "Swing Time" Fred is seen wearing a DB suit with his hands in his pant pockets wearing a sign around his neck that said: Penny unfair to John Garnett. As he walked the hallway. When he turns around, you see the vents on his suit... they're modest in regards to the ones from the 70's but, they're not as shallow as the ones from the late 50's and early 60's.

I would say that Fred is the only actor I've seen wear vents in his suits in the 30's and early 40's.

The non vented look to me is cleaner and some what more vintage looking.

=WR=

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I would say that Fred is the only actor I've seen wear vents in his suits in the 30's and early 40's.

Vents were rare in that era. I've seen them in '30s issues of Apparel Arts and Esquire, but not often.

.

 

[resortes805]

I'm digging this look from the30sstyle.com, it's almost mid 40's in my eyes.

 

[Shaul-Ike Cohen]

I'm digging this look from the30sstyle.com, it's almost mid 40's in my eyes.

Because of the voluminous trousers? Maybe also the large pocket.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Bump! Newer Loungers, be sure to check out this thread's first page.

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