Hideki Okisaka: Master '30s tailor !

[BogeybyBrielle]

Thanks Mark that made my day.

I'm a first time user and seem to be having a little trouble sending or repling to threads.

Mark yes you made my day, I will try those links and see if I can reach someone about ording a suit.

Is there a user guide for this site, I feel like a big dummy.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I was just pulling your leg a bit. Welcome to the Fedora Lounge! :cheers1:


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[pchong]

some pictures

Here are some more pictures of the Saturday afternoon at my hotel room at the Imperial Hotel, Tokyo. This is a repost of what I wrote in LL some time ago.

I would like to invite comments from our learned members to point out striking features to emulate or to avoid.

The Yamazaki 3B SB, 3 piece suit in multi-stripe
The shoulder

Note the heavily roped shoulder, high notch position and large lapels. Note also the handmade buttonaire hole. It is interesting that the Okisaka-san chose not to use pick stitching on the lapel.

Note also the lapel is cut such that the edge is straight, following closely one of the stripes on the material pattern. Okisaka-san explained to me that he made this so that the lapel looked more angular.

The shoulder is hand constructed...picture above showing the inside stitching.

Note the angular lapel, with the very high notch position Coupled with a button point which is at approximately midpoint, and pronounced and pinched waist makes the garment looks rather dramatic.

Level indicating the height of the trousers at the back. The trousers were held by braces, and typical high back, fish tailed.

The back of the coat had a slight fullness around the shoulder blades.

The cloth was a rather interesting vintage material from Thornton-Jones. Lining was apalca wool, which had a very dull finish, rather different from viscose.

Showing the dart construction. Okisaka-san took great pains to explain that the coat was constructed.

I am not sure if I understand him clearly. But apparently, unlike modern coats, where there is a side panel running all the way from the bottom of the armpit to the coat bottom. This side panel is attached to the rear panel, and the front panel. In his costruction such that the side panel is completely missing, but the front panel extends to meet the rear panel.

 

[Sefton]

Those new pictures are wonderful. Such a beautiful suit. I'm wondering what were these gentlemen's reactions the foreign interest in their suits? Also I'd love to hear what they think of the Lounge.

 

[herringbonekid]

i still think the peaked lapels are sitting too high on the jacket. they're a bit too wide, and the dead straight line only adds to the effect that they're sitting ON rather than being PART OF the whole composition. too angluar and hard.

other than that, the suit looks beautifully made.

 

[geo]

I like everything I see. Although the lapel is straight, the point of the lapel is rounded, not pointed. I especially like the natural width of the shoulders, and the roping. The angular, dramatic lines are very typical of the 30's, very art-deco looking. The alpaca wool lining is great too. This is one suit that surely stands out, in a positive way. It's a work of art. If I had the choice of having a bespoke suit made, I would go to Mr. Okisaka before going to Savile Row.

 

[herringbonekid]

If I had the choice of having a bespoke suit made, I would go to Mr. Okisaka before going to Savile Row.

i would too. far better to use someone who is obsessed with the period than someone who isn't, and needs to have their arm twisted into doing it (and then probably getting it wrong). i'd just ask him to adjust those lapels a bit for me.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

The lapels and roped shoulders seem perfect for what appear in drawing form in sear's catalogues. Whether the garments actually looked like the drawings is a different matter. I've never seen one. The suit i've seen (and rejected) that's similar to this had less pronounced roping and the lapels were a little less ostentatious. I feel that the shoulders are the worst part of this suit. I'm not a great fan of roping even when it's subtle, and these ones are extreme. A nice suit, otherwise.

bk

 

[MudInYerEye]

The lapels and roped shoulders seem perfect for what appear in drawing form in sear's catalogues. Whether the garments actually looked like the drawings is a different matter. I've never seen one. The suit i've seen (and rejected) that's similar to this had less pronounced roping and the lapels were a little less ostentatious. I feel that the shoulders are the worst part of this suit. I'm not a great fan of roping even when it's subtle, and these ones are extreme. A nice suit, otherwise.

bk

That the suit appears more similar to a 1930's catalog illustration than to an actual 1930's suit is very attractive to me. The Japanese are generally a very romantic people and in the midst of zeal often over-exaggerate/over-exploit/over-stylize favorite details while reproducing things of the past (one can find evidence of this in certain Japanese-reproduced flight and motorcycle jackets). I appreciate this quality a great deal.

 

[Wild Root]

I think it's the best suit made today... but, I'm going to side in with a few of you guys and agree that the lapels are too high... now, I do think they're a little wide but, it may be a part of the fact that they're sitting so high.

I liked the roped shoulders myself... but, I think if the lapels weren't so straight and high, it would balance things out more.

I wonder if these guys have some original vintage to go off of... or are they looking at old photos or catalogs only? Or, do they take what they like the most and do their own details like most tailors did even then. Every tailor has a style... they make suits that look like others but, there are things they do special that no one else does... I could be wrong.

If money wasn't an issue, I'd have them make me a few suits... but, I'd make it clear that I don't want my lapels to sit that high... I'd probably have them copy one of my suit coats... but, as for pants and vests... PERFECT!!!

=WR=

 

[scotrace]

That the suit appears more similar to a 1930's catalog illustration than to an actual 1930's suit is very attractive to me. The Japanese are generally a very romantic people and in the midst of zeal often over-exaggerate/over-exploit/over-stylize favorite details while reproducing things of the past (one can find evidence of this in certain Japanese-reproduced flight and motorcycle jackets). I appreciate this quality a great deal.

Agreed. Well said.

 

[herringbonekid]

if i were getting one of these suits made i'd ask to lose the rope shoulder and go for a more natural shoulder. but i'm being picky.... they're still wonderful suits.

in a way i'm amazed that anyone today is attempting to make 30s style suits. hats off to this man ! :eusa_clap

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I wonder if these guys have some original vintage to go off of...

They do. One of them has bought stuff from me.

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[Baron Kurtz]

I prefer his DBs. They are truly the business. Love the width of the lapels on his DB jackets ... there's a brown one posted earlier - with the caramel chalkstripes - which i believe to be the greatest suit i've ever seen. I fell over when i saw it. I continue to fall over every time i see it ...

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I prefer his DBs.

Agreed!!!

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[Wild Root]

I prefer his DBs. They are truly the business. Love the width of the lapels on his DB jackets ... there's a brown one posted earlier - with the caramel chalkstripes - which i believe to be the greatest suit i've ever seen. I fell over when i saw it. I continue to fall over every time i see it ...

bk

BK, I think I fell over at the same time you did!llol That suit is amazing! And I also loved the black one (or, maybe it was dark gray) with chalk stripes... OH MY! So nice!

BK, you're going to fall over again!

Yes, the DB's are the best!

=WR=

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Incredible. Wonderful. And the frustrating thing is, every suit manufacturer in America is capable of making a silhouette like this! All that is needed is the will to do it. The knowledge is available. It isn't rocket science, especially for the suit manufacturers who have all the equipment and manpower at their disposal.

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[Baron Kurtz]

bumped my head on the way down that time ...

down to the high-stance caramel buttons, that suit is perfect a replica.

The black one didn't thrill me quite so much. I go for less contrast. Black/white a little extreme for my tastes. Pretty much the same suit cut, though, eh what?

bk

 

[Wild Root]

Ooops, sorry about that BK lol

The brown one is something I'd wear with pride! The black one is a suit I'd wear if I had some business to attend too... ya know... business. lol

That brown one is so well done, if I didn't know any better, I'd swear it was an original suit!

=WR=

 

[Baron Kurtz]

an ageing Wild Root attends to "business" ...

bk