Help with my new Pea Coat pls?

[shortbow]

Hey all.

I've just found a quite nice pea coat which I looked long and hard for and wondered if any of you could help with id etc.

I bought it online from back east in Canada but the owner knew little about it, and I'd like to know if it's Canadian or US and if it's approximate date can be inferred from the info on the tags.

The size tag below the collar just says 44R with the number 8405-01-154-5797 below that.

On a tag along the inside seam pocket on the right side it says:

Name.
Service no.

Overcoat, Man's,
Enlisted (100% wool)
stock No. with the above number
Size 44 Regular
Name of Contractor:
Wolverine Knitting Mills, Inc.
Name of Manufacturer: Longview Mfg. Co. Inc.
__________________________________

Dry Clean Only


Seems it's fairly recent, it's in grand condition and extremely well made.

Thanks eh!

 

[Spoonbelly]

Are you sure the number on the size tag is the exact same number that is in the inside pocket? If the numbers are different the manufacture date would come from the number on the inside pocket and not on the size tag under the collar. If so, the 01 in that number would indicate that the coat was made in 2001. It should be a US Navy coat form the description you gave from the tags.

 

[shortbow]

Spoon, thanks very much for the reply. I appreciate it. Yes, the numbers are identical.

Given the condition of the coat, the 2001 description makes good sense. What impresses me so much about this garment is how well made it is. It has the over-all quality one would expect from a top notch civilian dress over coat. I would not have expected this level of attention to detail etc. from a bit of kit issued to a enlisted man. Whatever, it's a beauty and something I will enjoy for years.

 

[Spoonbelly]

The older dark navy blue Kersey coats are even quite a bit nicer then the modern day black Melton coats - way nicer in fact. If you have a common size there are many of them that go on ebay. The big season starts in Oct. and goes through the winter. If you ever come across one I'm sure you won't ever want to part with it. I have 6 of them due to my size (46), which is pretty rare, and they are now getting scarce. I also wanted a life time supply. There's also VintageTrends.com which has many old pea coats, but their prices are higher then what you could get on ebay.

 

[Kyle Brown]

I'm currently enlisted in the Navy and can say that all of our dress blue uniform items are very well made. There's really no difference in quality between officers and enlisted general issue clothing, in fact since last year our "utility" or daily wear uniforms are exactly the same. I know in days past it was common for officers to have their uniforms custom made by civilian tailors, though in my time in the service I have not seen this. My peacoat is definitely one of my prized items from Uncle Sam. Warm, well made, and versatile. The materials have changed slightly, but as far as I know peacoat patterns haven't changed much if at all since the early 1960s. You made a good score even if it isn't actual vintage.

 

[shortbow]

Thanks a lot fellows. Good information. I haven't had nor seen any of those old vintage garments, but if they are nicer, as you say, than this one they must be quite fine. I know I'm very fond of this one and plan on enjoying it for the rest of the trip.

Cheers.

 

[Peacoat]

Kyle: Welcome to the Lounge.

Spoon: Keep collecting those vintage peacoats in the larger sizes. As you know, they are rare and getting more so each year.

Shortbow: You probably have already done so, but if not, you might enjoy reading the sticky at the top of the page on Peacoat Dating. And Kyle, it would give you some information on the vintage peacoats. Here is the direct link:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?35824-PEACOAT-DATING

 

[CC-1]

8405-01-154-5797

I think we need a little more research before identifying -01 as the manufacturing date of this coat.
This 13 number code is called the National Stock Number and the -01 code identifies the country of origin
as the United States. The NSN was instituted about 1974 and was created in regard to NATO designation.
I am not sure that there is even a date involved with this number.

 

[Jack Burton]

I think we need a little more research before identifying -01 as the manufacturing date of this coat.
This 13 number code is called the National Stock Number and the -01 code identifies the country of origin
as the United States. The NSN was instituted about 1974 and was created in regard to NATO designation.
I am not sure that there is even a date involved with this number.

I agree. The NSN #8405-01-154-5797 cross references to manufacturers # MIL-O-2414 which was adopted in 1988. Specs are here. The U.S. military tends to complicate the hell out of everything with their numerous numbers that half the time, hold no real meaning to anyone other than the desk jockeys that created the cryptic number to justify their existences (sorry, rant off)

The 8405 is the Federal Supply Class (FSC) # for "Outerwear, Men's"
The 01 identifies it as U.S. in origin, as CC-1 mentioned
The 154...I have no idea.
The 5797 indicates 44 Regular...as any sensible person would guesslol

I would think that a date code should be stamped somewhere in the coat. Is there a sailor's serial number anywhere?

A cursory search of the web implies Wolverine Knitting Mills, Inc. filed for bankruptcy sometime around 1989-1990. That might not mean anything but it gives you an idea of where to start looking.

EDIT: Searching the NSN at http://www.bidlink.net/nsn_search dates the coat as manufactured in the 1987-1988 time frame.

 

[Peacoat]

Good job, Jack. I have little to no interest in dating the current issue peacoats. Glad you took the time to do so. I will say that all of the current issue peacoats I have owned, or seen, have the contract date embedded in the numbers on the tag. Looks like they did something different this time. Glad they introduced a little variety in the dating system; it was getting a bit boring.

 

[Atticus Finch]

I think we need a little more research before identifying -01 as the manufacturing date of this coat.
This 13 number code is called the National Stock Number and the -01 code identifies the country of origin
as the United States. The NSN was instituted about 1974 and was created in regard to NATO designation.
I am not sure that there is even a date involved with this number.

The date of manufacture is not in the stock number. Military clothing made from the 'sixties through the present will have a number on the spec tag beginning with either DA, DSA, DLA or SPO. This number will contain the date of manufacture.

The photos below show examples of spec tags from four military jackets...a 1998 Avirex A-2, a 1964 Southern Athletic N-3B, a 1961 Skyline MA-1 and a 1992 Cooper G-1. Navy peacoats are no different. If the coat in question was actually issued by the millitary, anytime after the early sixties, it will have a tag somewhere bearing one of these numbers. I have two peacoats, a 1992 and a 1974. The first has a DLA number the second a DSA number. By the way, if the article of clothing was made before the early sixties, dating it can be more complicated. In order to date early military jackets and such, one often has to know the date of the specific military contract referenced on the jacket's tag.

Hope this helps!

AF

 

[shortbow]

Thanks again Gentlemen. Looks like Jack wins the prize. Contract no. DLA 100-87-c-0631

 

[Peacoat]

Atticus, I love that 1961 Skyline in extra large. That is a difficult one to find. I used to wear a medium or a large back when I was a young pilot and not as filled out as I am now. I have now grown into the extra large sizes in the old nylons.

 

[Atticus Finch]

Atticus, I love that 1961 Skyline in extra large. That is a difficult one to find. I used to wear a medium or a large back when I was a young pilot and not as filled out as I am now. I have now grown into the extra large sizes in the old nylons.

Thanks! I actually have two '61 Skylines. One is mint and the other is a beater that I re-knitted and patched up. This is the beater.

And this is the mint one with the C&C Crown zipper.

AF