Help with menswear; sizes, fit & proportions

[Liliana]

Hello all...

This is my first post here and I'm hoping that some of you good fellows might be able to offer assistance regarding a somewhat strange inquiry I have.

I've sold lady's vintage on eBay in the past and have recently decided to open my own online vintage clothing store which will include vintage men's fashions as well.

So, here's the thing...

I've spent the past few months acquiring a VERY hefty inventory of men's items. I'm now in the process of getting ready to put together ensembles and take photos. Meaning, I'd like to be able to pair up coordinating shirt/tie/suit or slacks/jackets of the same size and then take pics of the whole shebang as a group.

As you know, vintage sizing can be pretty hit or miss; that is if sizes are even listed.

And, as a woman, I'm not really sure exactly how men's clothing is supposed to fit. Meaning how close to the body for a shirt? What should the proportions of a shirt be in comparison to the jacket that's to be worn over it? The waist on pants should be ??? narrower than a shirt's waist?

So, I guess my question is:

Is there a rule of thumb regarding these sorts of proportions? Is it possible to hold up a pair of pants to the waist of a jacket and say "the jacket should be xx inches wider at the waist than the slacks"? How about the shoulders of a shirt versus the shoulders of a jacket?

Are my questions making any sense?

Hope so!

Thanks for looking at my post and hopefully offering whatever help you can.

Cheers;
Liliana

 

[Matt Jones]

Is there a rule of thumb regarding these sorts of proportions? Is it possible to hold up a pair of pants to the waist of a jacket and say "the jacket should be xx inches wider at the waist than the slacks"?

There are no rules and it varies throughout history but generally, the jacket chest is about 8" wider than the trousers' waist, give or take an inch or two.

Shirts really have no bearing on anything else. "Off the shelf" shirts are made with room to accomodate many different chest sizes. Usually just a neck and sleeve measurement are enough information to sell a shirt, whereas you'd want to measure every aspect of a suit.

 

[scotrace]

Did You Say

Did I just see the words Vintage Clothing Store and Ohio used together? I hope you're not too far...

Welcome to The Fedora Lounge, Liliana.

 

[otterhound]

generally, the jacket chest is about 8" wider than the trousers' waist, give or take an inch or two.

Are you sure, Matt? That sounds like a pretty athletic drop to me. IIRC, I was told at Brooks Brothers many years ago that they did a 4" drop from chest to waist.

 

[scotrace]

I've always heard 7" or 8".

The drop from my chest to waist is 9" and I am hardly athletic.

 

[otterhound]

I've always heard 7" or 8".

The drop from my chest to waist is 9" and I am hardly athletic.

Really? My drop is from a 39" jacket to a 31" waist and I have a heck of a time finding suits that don't require the waist to be taken in several inches. Maybe that is just a modern suit thing.

 

[scotrace]

Enjoy it!

I remember my 29" waist fondly... But I looked like I'd just been liberated from the camps.

 

[Zach R.]

The 4" you heard about might be the difference between the actual measurements and the labelled size. Say, if a jacket measured 52" in the chest, then that jacket would be size 48.

I've always seen suits come standard with trousers that are 6" less than the chest measurement, and I remember reading somewhere that that is standard procedure, but I guess we've all seen and heard different things.

 

[Liliana]

Hi again!

Thanks for all the replies and info (and the warm welcome scotrace ).

I've gotten a good idea about the chest to waist proportions regarding jackets and understand that nothing is exact or written in stone.

I've tried measuring and comparing to a size chart which converts neck/chest/waist measurements into S,M,L,XL.

But… those are actual sizes, not measurements, most vintage clothing doesn't have sizes given.

So, measuring isn't really getting me anywhere; plus, all that measuring takes a looonng time and I've got tons to go through.

I'm still wondering if there isn't a general guideline I can go by as I (literally) wade through all this stuff and try to pair it up into groupings of approximately the same size.

For instance, when trying to pair pants to a fitted jacket I'd imagine that the best way would be by comparing the waists of the two items. Certainly, the waist of the pants should be smaller than the jacket's waist, but… one inch smaller? four inches smaller? I'm lost… :eusa_doh:

And I know that shirts are sized by neck measurements, but, shouldn't there be some correlation between the shirt's shoulders and the jackets for basic ease of movement?

Or maybe not, I've got no idea.

Then again, maybe I'm looking for an easy answer that just doesn't exist.

Sure do hope it does though, cuz this measuring stuff just isn't working out the way I would have liked.

Cheers from the Rock & Roll Hall city,
Liliana

 

[Matt Jones]

I've tried measuring and comparing to a size chart which converts neck/chest/waist measurements into S,M,L,XL.

Size can never be trusted. It's ALL about measurements.

If you intend to sell any of this stuff online you're going to need real measurements that are accurate (you'll be asked for them anyway). No man looking to buy a suit ever asks for "a medium." You need at least some basic measurements.

I recommend browsing some online Tuxedo sites. Many contain good info about proper measurements and fit.

The most important measurements are jacket chest and trouser waist, and that's how I see most thrift stores organize their stuff.

And I know that shirts are sized by neck measurements, but, shouldn't there be some correlation between the shirt's shoulders and the jackets for basic ease of movement?

There really isn't. Shirts are a completely separate entity and a proper fit is crucial. Men's neck and sleeve sizes vary so much that you'd never be successful in "pairing up" shirts with suits. You'll get small guys with huge necks, tall guys with short arms, etc. Very messy indeed.

 

[Liliana]

Very messy indeed...

That seems to epitomize my current situation, in more ways than one.

My fault entirely; as I think that I must not have been making myself very clear in my previous posts.

So here goes...

Yep! It's all about the measurements, couldn't agree with you more.

As I've stated... I have, in the past, sold more than my share of women's vintage. So, I am very aware of the need for accurate measurements when listing and have actually found myself measuring items in my sleep, or should I say nightmares?

What I was actually looking for was a quicker/easier way to do the first organizational pass. Some way to just group item of approximately the same size together and them move on from there to taking photos, measuring and listing.

'Course...that's looking to be less and less possible than I would have hoped.

But then, that's why we ask these questions, isn't it; to learn?

Oh well, looks like I'm going to have to go back to measuring and guesstimating; worse things have happened I suppose! [huh]

Thanks again all,
Liliana

 

[Marc Chevalier]

You really do have to measure every piece, one by one. Sorry about that! But it really is the only way.


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