Help With First Aero Order

[Philalethes]

It all started by becoming interested in a U.S. Wings Indy jacket last October...
And here I am. After seriously considering many manufacturers and many coats, I am almost ready to place my order for an Aero Barnstormer. Below are the instructions I hope to send:

Barnstormer in Oil Pull Horsehide (Please select dark hides)
Extra room for layering
19/20 oz. tweed lining mailed from Harris Tweed Shop (body)



Harris Tweed tag sown into lining
Olive drab gabardine cotton (B-10 material) over alpaca (sleeves)
Leather facing panel at bottom hem
Body length extended by 3-5” [undecided how long until I make measurements]
M422a-style button throat closure
Two inner zip pockets
Hand-warmer pockets at bottom [Maybe]

A few questions I hope members may help me with:
1) What kind of body measurements should I take? Should I follow the measurement guide from AeroUSA on Ebay? (I am ordering through the factory.)

2) I am lengthening the coat to at least suit jacket length, since I think the standard length looks a little short. I am wondering whether it would be worth it to make the jacket just a little longer than suit jacket length, so I could throw it over a suit jacket if I wanted. I have been told that the Barnstormer isn't the best choice for an overcoat, but I find the flexibility of being able to use it over a suit jacket in a pinch to be appealing. What do you all think?

3) Is it worth adding hand warmer pockets at the bottom? I frequently keep my hands in my pockets, and I think it would be uncomfortable to walk around with my hands in the chest pockets. However, I also like the look of the Barnstormer as is.

4) Would anyone recommend getting a different lining for the hand warmer pockets than the standard cotton?

Thanks in advance,
Philalethes

 

[Dav]

Hi Philalethes, I sent measurements in a T-shirt and in the heaviest sweater I was intending to wear underneath.
The pocket linings on my Cheyenne are blue moleskin which can be seen here http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?52296-My-Cheyenne&highlight= which is a nice alternative to the cotton drill.
Sorry if this isn't much help.

 

[apba1166]

I would measure over the clothes you would wear underneath, more or less (literally), and let them know that.

Now, to throw in my cents where it's not asked re: your #2: The only leather coats I've ever felt comfortable in over suit coats were either drop-shoulder (raglan sleeves) or else a bit wide and lightly padded, designed as such to be worn that way. Not that many others don't "fit" but they always seem a bit confining, Shoulders aside, if you line the HH sleeves with alpaca, even with the slide of gabardine, I think the entire build-out won't let you feel much like bending your arm if it's all over a suit coat as well. In a pinch, as you say, maybe.

 

[andy richards]

The barnstormer is a very heavy jacket. IMHO this jacket is not the most ideal jacket to wear over a suit. I would wear this kind of jacket only over a sweater or maybe a shirt.
The overall specs you posted looks great to me btw.
Cheers,
Andy

 

[OneEyeMan]

Actually, I believe that they want your measurements in normal street clothes.
Then tell them that you plan to wear a sweater or whatever underneath.
They know how to build in the appropriate extra room based on this method.
When in doubt, discuss it with Amanda.
Lenny

 

[JanSolo]

Hi,

I can only agree with what has been said before. The Barnstormer will look silly when worn over a suit jacket. And with alpaca in the sleeves it will be almost impossible to wear a blazer underneath. However the Barnstormer will look excellent as an replacement for a classic overcoat. When worn with suit trousers, shirt and a thin and finely knitted quality sweater it will look smashing.

Don't lengthen the jacket by more than 3 inches. Otherwise it will look out of proportion.
As a pocket lining I can recommend brown moleskin which is cosy and soft. My favourite choice is dark brown corduroy which is soft, comfortable, and really warm... plus it will last a lifetime.

 

[Philalethes]

Sorry if this isn't much help.

It is helpful! Thank you.

 

[Philalethes]

Now, to throw in my cents where it's not asked re: your #2: The only leather coats I've ever felt comfortable in over suit coats were either drop-shoulder (raglan sleeves) or else a bit wide and lightly padded, designed as such to be worn that way. Not that many others don't "fit" but they always seem a bit confining, Shoulders aside, if you line the HH sleeves with alpaca, even with the slide of gabardine, I think the entire build-out won't let you feel much like bending your arm if it's all over a suit coat as well. In a pinch, as you say, maybe.

Thanks, I actually was asking for somebody's two cents!
I think that you (and the others) are probably right that I will feel a little "stuffed" in the jacket if I wear a suit jacket underneath. Honestly, because in the winter I frequently wear thermal shirts and dress shirts with my sports coats, I frequently feel a little stuffed even in my wool overcoat.

 

[Philalethes]

The barnstormer is a very heavy jacket. IMHO this jacket is not the most ideal jacket to wear over a suit. I would wear this kind of jacket only over a sweater or maybe a shirt.
The overall specs you posted looks great to me btw.
Cheers,
Andy

Thanks for the kind words and the advice. The Oil Pull horsehide is slightly lighter than Aero's FQHH, but because of the linings I am using I suspect it might turn out even heavier than a "standard" Barnstormer.

 

[Philalethes]

Actually, I believe that they want your measurements in normal street clothes.
Then tell them that you plan to wear a sweater or whatever underneath.
They know how to build in the appropriate extra room based on this method.
When in doubt, discuss it with Amanda.
Lenny

Thanks. I think you are right to double-check with Amanda.

 

[Philalethes]

Don't lengthen the jacket by more than 3 inches. Otherwise it will look out of proportion.

That is a good point. Since I am giving up on the idea of wearing it over a suit jacket, I think I will keep the Barnstormer itself about suit jacket length: just enough to comfortably cover the rear.

As a pocket lining I can recommend brown moleskin which is cosy and soft. My favourite choice is dark brown corduroy which is soft, comfortable, and really warm... plus it will last a lifetime.

Hmmm... moleskin or corduroy? Do you think the corduroy will add too much bulk, especially if I get hand warmer pockets at the bottom?

 

[jb771213]

Hello,

I ordered my Barnstormer long enough to wear it over my suit and also mentioned that at my order together with my measurements.

And I think it works very well and looks good, also with suit.

Best regards

PS I like my Barnstormer (cordovan HFQHH) and this caused a second order at Aero- a Highwayman in Brown

 

[Philalethes]

Hello,

I ordered my Barnstormer long enough to wear it over my suit and also mentioned that at my order together with my measurements.

And I think it works very well and looks good, also with suit.

Thanks. If I may ask: What kind of lining (heavy? light?) does your Barnstormer have? When you mentioned to Aero that you wanted to wear it over a suit, did you specify a length or let them determine it?

 

[jb771213]

I ordered it with Red Stewart Cotton Tartan.

I determined the length by measuring another jacket that I wear over my suits. But instead you can measure your suit jacket and add an inch or so.

 

[JanSolo]

Corduroy doesn't make the jacket bulkier. Especially if it's made of heavy leather. Corduroy was used in many period jackets. I've once handled a 30s Halfbelt of unknown origin and that jacket had beautiful olive corduroy pocket bags. I loved it!

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

The pocket itself creates more bulk then the corduroy lining.
I mean the folded leather that is the beginning of the pocket, or the mouth of the pocket.

My 2 gunpockets in my highwayman can bee seen as 2 rectangles from the outside.
I dont think others notice it tho, but its there and might be seen more and more with aging.

 

[Philalethes]

Hand Warmer Pockets at bottom?

Thanks again for the replies.

Does anybody have any thoughts on whether I should have hand warmer pockets added at the bottom? I think I might use them, but I also like the look of the Barnstormer as is.

BTW, also still undecided on the pocket linings. Both moleskin and corduroy sound like attractive options...

 

[holdencain]

Corduroy doesn't make the jacket bulkier. Especially if it's made of heavy leather. Corduroy was used in many period jackets. I've once handled a 30s Halfbelt of unknown origin and that jacket had beautiful olive corduroy pocket bags. I loved it!

I have corduroy in both the interior G1 pockets and handwarmer pockets of my 30's halfbelt. I was wondering the same thing regarding the *bulk* of all that corduroy. Jan is right, the corduroy is fabulous! I also asked Amanda and she said the corduroy will flatten a bit over time...and she also didn't feel that the moleskin would be that less bulky.

HC

 

[Edward]

Hello,

I ordered my Barnstormer long enough to wear it over my suit and also mentioned that at my order together with my measurements.

And I think it works very well and looks good, also with suit.

Best regards

PS I like my Barnstormer (cordovan HFQHH) and this caused a second order at Aero- a Highwayman in Brown

You have any photos of that? It's something I have been thinking of doing (adding maybe 10" or 12", just enough to bring it to a bit above the knee, similar in length to a Covert coat). It'll be a long time before I have the cash to do that, but it seems a logical option to me.