Help with choosing a leather jacket

[MuyJingo]

Hi all,

I'm about to purchase a new leather jacket, and was just wanting some advice/opinions/suggestions before committing.

I wore a leather jacket for about 8 years before it just became too damaged. This was a soft leather jacket from a somewhat fancy store. I don't know what type of hide it is, but as it became easily water damaged I am guessing lamb or something.

As I don't want the same to happen with my new jacket, I am making sure it will be cowhide or horsehide. Is one of these better than the other in terms of durability? Are both equally tolerant against rain and snow?

Secondly, I would like peoples opinions on this jacket from Schott, the 662:

I don't seem to see too many reviews of it, but I like the cut and the style.

Lastly, I would appreciate if if anyone could suggest some further companies that might cater to the styles I like.

Some examples of the styles I like (after much, much researching):

http://www.filmjackets.com/current/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/FLMJKT-0013c-0000.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Rqr-1ncfKZA/SyXSKWz-vXI/AAAAAAAAB_k/tJo28zAtIgY/s1600-h/pitt.jpg
http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/bald-gangster-armed-baton-outdoors-night-19895245.jpg
http://www.moviestarsjackets.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/1jack-bauer-in-nyc.jpg
http://www.slimfitjackets.com/image/cache/data/slimfit/mens/Vintage/Joseph%20Gordon-levitt%20(Jgl)%20Looper%20Black%20Jacket-700x700.jpg
http://www.movieleatherjacket.com/product_images/j/247/leo-dicaprio-joseph-gordon-levitt-love-leather-11__81710_zoom.jpg
http://www.movie-blogger.com/sites/default/files/Snake%20Plissken.jpg

Essentially I want something with a proper collar and not too many zippers, but something that sets it apart...

Pics not embedded so as not to crowd the thread.

Companies I have looked at so far:

ToJ/John Coppidge - They only have one style that seems in line with what I want, which is very basic.
US Wings - They don't seem to have anything in my style...all flight or Indiana Jones jackets
Coronado - One very basic style....
Lost Worlds - Some nice stuff, but it seems far too overpriced
Vanson - Nice stuff, just nothing really in my style
Aero - Some really really nice stuff here...just not sure it's worth the cost when converted to USD...

I'd love any opinions or feedback

Thanks

 

[rocketeer]

I dont think you reallistically can be advised what to buy unless you want an item for a specific purpose such as a bike jacket or ski for example.
As for style, it is what style you like, what suits you and what you look good in. Of course you could discard all that and just buy what you want as long as the quality is good and the price is in your budget.
I will admit I'm a big Aero fan so am a bit biased though there are many copycat firms of varying quality out there so take your pic. The DiCaprio pic is my favourite from your list and Aero do a couple similar .
Your query about converting $$$$$ to £££££ is fairly easy.
just google 'Tourist rate currency converter' and there are lots of free sites. You just put in the cost of the item in £££ and hit convert to whatever currency you are using. At present a £650 jacket will retail about $1060, but to this you will have to pay import charges and customs as well as postage, though again there are free sites where all this is available though a company like Aero or Eastman may be able to help with advice though your own services websites are best for this.

 

[MuyJingo]

I dont think you reallistically can be advised what to buy unless you want an item for a specific purpose such as a bike jacket or ski for example.
As for style, it is what style you like, what suits you and what you look good in. Of course you could discard all that and just buy what you want as long as the quality is good and the price is in your budget.
I will admit I'm a big Aero fan so am a bit biased though there are many copycat firms of varying quality out there so take your pic. The DiCaprio pic is my favourite from your list and Aero do a couple similar .
Your query about converting $$$$$ to £££££ is fairly easy.
just google 'Tourist rate currency converter' and there are lots of free sites. You just put in the cost of the item in £££ and hit convert to whatever currency you are using. At present a £650 jacket will retail about $1060, but to this you will have to pay import charges and customs as well as postage, though again there are free sites where all this is available though a company like Aero or Eastman may be able to help with advice though your own services websites are best for this.

Hi, thanks for your reply.

When I ask for advice here it's just general things I may not be aware of, downsides to a certain style or hide I may not be aware of, things like that.

I have a good idea of the style I like, evidence by the examples I posted. This is a big investment for me so I'm just trying to cover all my based before I commit.

For example, I gave the 662 as an example of the style I am leaning towards at the moment, but perhaps some people know of a similar design from a different company that I would be much happier with. I figure it doesn't hurt to ask people more knowledgeable than myself.

I'm sorry I wasn't clear...I didn't mean to ask how to convert gbp into usd (in fact, you can do it in google directly, just search for example 300 gbp in usd), I just meant that I don't know that their jackets are worth more than $1000 USD. They are about twice as expensive as Schott's offerings...and I'm wondering how that is justified.

I don't mind spending that much on something that is going to be with me the next 10 years...it just seems extreme. It's the same reason I didn't take a jacket from lost worlds...they just seem overpriced.

 

[Capesofwrath]

Lost Worlds and Aero and a few others make jackets to a high standard that will last a lifetime and have the highest quality leather. Schott make good quality high st or in US terms mall jackets.

The cost of something like that is what it is.

 

[Sloan1874]

As far as Aero goes, you might want to try going through Insurrection - have a look at their affiliate thread on the Lounge - that way you'll know what you'll be paying up front and can try on a 'fit jacket' to make sure it'll fit you properly etc. As far as the various pics go, I would hazard that an Aero Pioneer might suit your needs: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=1513
If you check Simonc's buttoned version, it's very cool, as is Fanch's more orthodox version:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?73077-Aero-Pioneer
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?74200-New-pioneer
As far as the price goes, certainly they're not cheap, but these jackets are designed to get better every time you wear it - while a lamb skin jacket is spoiled by scuffs and knocks, the likes of Aero and Lost Worlds positively invite you to abuse them! Best of luck in your choice.

 

[MuyJingo]

Lost Worlds and Aero and a few others make jackets to a high standard that will last a lifetime and have the highest quality leather. Schott make good quality high st or in US terms mall jackets.

The cost of something like that is what it is.

Now that's interesting.

You are the first person I have seen say this, and I've been doing a lot of research the last few weeks combing through threads on this forum and many others.

Most people have nothing but high praise for Schott...which makes sense. I mean I can see there being a reason the company has been around 100 years with a reputation of quality....pretty far from a "mall jacket" I would think.

It seems more like Lost Worlds is more expensive because they are a smaller shop and do more customizations while Aero is more expensive because of the market price differences in the UK. If Aero were a US company their prices probably wouldn't be that much higher than Schott's...just a guess...

But again, I'm happy to pay that much if it's really worth it...but I've heard only good things about schott and how long their jackets last..so I'm skeptical of something that costs twice as much.

As far as Aero goes, you might want to try going through Insurrection - have a look at their affiliate thread on the Lounge - that way you'll know what you'll be paying up front and can try on a 'fit jacket' to make sure it'll fit you properly etc. As far as the various pics go, I would hazard that an Aero Pioneer might suit your needs: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=1513
If you check Simonc's buttoned version, it's very cool, as is Fanch's more orthodox version:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?73077-Aero-Pioneer
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?74200-New-pioneer
As far as the price goes, certainly they're not cheap, but these jackets are designed to get better every time you wear it - while a lamb skin jacket is spoiled by scuffs and knocks, the likes of Aero and Lost Worlds positively invite you to abuse them! Best of luck in your choice.

Thanks very much! I'm still researching and there are quite a few Aero jackets I like. Those conversations you linked are going to be useful in helping me choose.

 

[Capesofwrath]

There are quite a lot of very good jackets put up on the Aero sale page today incidentally.

I notice one of them is a jacket I sent back recently because the sleeves were a bit too short. Perfect otherwise. A rather nice Thunder Bay among others too.

 

[Capesofwrath]

Now that's interesting.

You are the first person I have seen say this, and I've been doing a lot of research the last few weeks combing through threads on this forum and many others.

Most people have nothing but high praise for Schott...which makes sense. I mean I can see there being a reason the company has been around 100 years with a reputation of quality....pretty far from a "mall jacket" I would think.

It seems more like Lost Worlds is more expensive because they are a smaller shop and do more customizations while Aero is more expensive because of the market price differences in the UK. If Aero were a US company their prices probably wouldn't be that much higher than Schott's...just a guess...

But again, I'm happy to pay that much if it's really worth it...but I've heard only good things about schott and how long their jackets last..so I'm skeptical of something that costs twice as much.

It's like anything. There's good quality and there's bespoke.

Is a Mercedes worth twice as much as a Toyota? Is a Bentley worth that much more again?

Only the buyer can decide that for himself.

 

[MuyJingo]

It's like anything. There's good quality and there's bespoke.

Is a Mercedes worth twice as much as a Toyota? Is a Bentley worth that much more again?

Only the buyer can decide that for himself.

Well that's the thing. Price isn't always an indicator of quality.

A lot of the time the more expensive stuff isn't necessarily any better quality than the moderately priced equivalent, it's just marketing and demographics.

Is an Armani undershirt which costs 4 times as much as an Old Navy undershirt better quality, when both are made in asia? I doubt it.

Yet, a lot of the time the more expensive items are made to a much higher standard and the price is reflective of that.

I guess with lost worlds, based on what I've read it seems more a case of the former than the latter.

If a Schott or Vanson jacket will last a lifetime, then what advantaged would a lost worlds or aero jacket that costs twice as much have over it? That's what I'm having trouble understanding, and that's what will influence my decision.

 

[Capesofwrath]

I think you're confusing fashion items with quality garments.

For instance I bought a Schott jacket over thirty years ago when I lived in London from a highish end niche shop. At the time there was a fashion for fifties Americana and the price of the jacket reflected that; plus the import costs and duties. It was a good well made jacket. Not spectacular in the quality of the leather or stitching, but a good jacket. Not really worth what I paid for it though since as I wrote the price reflected import costs and the fact it was in fashion. In fact it was probably twice what it would have cost in New York.

A bit later I bought a similar jacket from a company in the UK called Aviation Leathercraft. They're mainly known now as the owner of the Irvin brand and they still make a well made, if most would say pastiche version of that jacket. They make leather jackets for police and other aircrew, as well as jackets for RAF aircrew. They are good well made jackets comparable in quality to Schott. Maybe a little better made. That jacket cost me a little, but not a lot more, in real terms allowing for inflation than the Schott. It was a better jacket than the Schott but still not a really top quality jacket.

The top quality jackets are made of the best leather by one machinist using walking foot machines and old fashioned craft techniques. They are not comparable to high end fashion brands like Armani which are made in China and sold at a vast profit on the back of advertising in glossy mags. If you handle one and wear one you will see where the money went.

 

[Sloan1874]

Also, as far as I'm aware, Aero and LW's advertising budget is roughly $0.

 

[OneEyeMan]

I know you stated that Vanson doesn't have anything in your style.
But, did you look at the Enfield.
It has a very similar look to the Schott you posted.
I have one and absolutely love it.
It's priced similarly to the Schotts, but I feel much higher quality.
The leather is heavy and would probably withstand a nuclear blast.
Every stitch is perfect and fit (for me) is perfect.
Lenny

 

[Peacoat]

Johnson Leathers in San Francisco makes a quality jacket at reasonable prices. Several members here have Johnson jackets, and have been pleased with them. I have two of their jackets, and will soon be getting a third.

Allen will send you leather samples and a test jacket based on your measurements. If your measurements are close to standard, and you have a trim athletic body type, the non custom jacket should fit just fine. It will have a trim custom look to it. Minor changes can be made with no additional costs--such as leaving off a front pocket. If you want a jacket in black, there are a bunch of hides to choose from. For my tastes, the brown is more limited.

The M-200 may be what you are looking for. It is a plain jacket with no additional zippers. The front is one piece, as is the back, except for the yoke. If you go with the standard 3 to 3.5 oz. leather, the price with shipping, is maybe around $550. That's what I went with for my first jacket that I got for street wear. I liked it so well, and the fit was so good, that I got another one for dedicated motorcycle use. I got the heavy cowhide in that jacket, but that isn't what you are looking for--and I don't recommend it for street wear.

Their website doesn't do the jackets justice; they are much nicer than depicted. The link is below. Call Allen and he will give you the details. Once you have decided on the specifics, and he has your measurements, he will send out a test jacket. Based on how that jacket fits, they will then make your jacket per your instructions.

As to the differences between cowhide and horsehide, and which is "better," I will leave that to someone else. I do like the grain of the HH over the cowhide, but some HH jackets don't have that gnarly grain. My Goodwear A-2 has an excellent grain pattern, while my Eastman Luftwaffe, not so much.

Whatever jacket you eventually settle on, good luck on your search.

http://www.johnsonleather.com/m-200.htm

EDIT NOTE: Lenny mentioned the Vanson just before I posted this message. I agree the Vanson Enfield may be what you are looking for. I have one, and it is an excellent motorcycle jacket. Once broken in, it would be fine for street wear as well. The Enfield is tailored for the "fuller" male torso . . . that is, the middle section is a bit larger than the Johnson fit. Just depends on how one is built.

 

[Don Tomaso]

...
Your query about converting $$$$$ to £££££ is fairly easy.
just google 'Tourist rate currency converter' and there are lots of free sites. You just put in the cost of the item in £££ and hit convert to whatever currency you are using. At present a £650 jacket will retail about $1060, but to this you will have to pay import charges and customs as well as postage, though again there are free sites where all this is available though a company like Aero or Eastman may be able to help with advice though your own services websites are best for this.

Well, the prices on the Aero-Website include British VAT. So the prices on the Insurrection-Webpage are corrected for that and are, if I'm not mistaken, "all-inclusive". 1.100 bucks for a jacket, lots of money. But worth it!
You should also keep in mind that these jackets - as they are not made to measure! - might need some tweaking to get them right. The people at Insurrection will surely help you to get your measures right for sizing and also in case you need alterations (which I needed with my first Aero-jacket).
So, these things are expensive? Yes, they are. High quality leather and manufacturing comes at a price. The fascination of such a jacket cannot be explained, try one on and you're sold on it, believe me. This is a warning!

 

[Sloan1874]

Actually, it might be worth you having a look at Aero's site, as I see they're now holding a sale on their winter jackets. You might find something to your taste there. [huh]

 

[MuyJingo]

I think you're confusing fashion items with quality garments.

I'm not, it's just that as I said, this is the first time I've come accross anyone saying the Schott is that much lower quality.

I mean, I've been doing a lot of research the last 2 weeks, reading many threads and such, and I haven't come accross anyone speaking so lowly of the Schott before.

I can accept the Aero is better quality, I am just surprised to the extent you are saying it is better.

My point was only that a significantly more expensive item is not always an indicator of significantly better quality, and that goes for anything.

I know you stated that Vanson doesn't have anything in your style.
But, did you look at the Enfield.
It has a very similar look to the Schott you posted.
I have one and absolutely love it.
It's priced similarly to the Schotts, but I feel much higher quality.
The leather is heavy and would probably withstand a nuclear blast.
Every stitch is perfect and fit (for me) is perfect.
Lenny

Hi, thanks

I did look at the enfield, but I didn't like the extra pocket in the chest area, and I think I'm looking for something with more of an identiy.

That's partly why the Schott I posted appealed to me, the stiching on the front seems like a nice design you don't seem to often.

What areas would you say the Schott is less quality than the Vanson? I'm still interested in a Schott but looking to see what the actual downsides might be

So, these things are expensive? Yes, they are. High quality leather and manufacturing comes at a price. The fascination of such a jacket cannot be explained, try one on and you're sold on it, believe me. This is a warning!

Oh believe me, my curosity is peaked.

I'm just wondering about the price, as it is a lot, and like I said this is the first time I've seen peopel saying Aero and LW are in another category to the other brands because of the price.

I guess my conern is that the price is more an indicator of the local market than being higher quality, since the UK is generally a more expensive country than the US

As an example, a large basic dominos pizza costs 12 gbp, which is about $20, as where in NYC a large is still less than $10...yet there is no difference in quality between them.

Actually, it might be worth you having a look at Aero's site, as I see they're now holding a sale on their winter jackets. You might find something to your taste there. [huh]

Thanks!

Are the jackets on sale still custom made, or ones that people have returned that they need to sell?

 

[pak]

I might suggest Hillside leather. I have a HH vest and is well constructed. They are in NYC, I believe.

 

[Sloan1874]

They're a mixture, the description on each one will tell you its background. For instance, there's a rust shawl collar barnstormer which has an amazing green velvet lining that's a test pattern, so it's never gone out of the factory .

 

[cafeblitz]

I am new around here (hello everyone), but I have a Vanson and a Lost Worlds, with a Johnson Leathers on the way (after handling a test jacket for sizing). So, limiting my thoughts to the companies I have experience with:

Vanson makes a solid, gorgeous jacket with reasonable customer service, great fit and a wait that is not incomprehensibly long. When I was searching for a new cafe racer, I looked at all the usual suspects, including Schott, went with Vanson and could not be happier. My Vanson (an AR2) is only about 5 months old but I have worn it every chance I could (with no small amount of harassment from my wife during the warmer months) in all sorts of weather and it still looks brand new - better even. I have never held a jacket this solid, it feels like a mobile fortress; it still stands up on its own. Also, search around for Worf's latest Vanson threads for something a bit different aesthetically for the company, but completely awesome (I'm jealous).

Lost Worlds makes a great jacket with, in my experience, somewhat screwy sizing and ANTI-customer service. My jacket is beautiful, but at least a size larger than tagged and the difficulty of dealing with anyone at LW means it will be the last jacket I ever buy from them, which is a shame because most of their stuff looks great. That said, your experience may be completely different, so they are worth looking into.

Johnson Leathers is less well known, except around the FL, but Alan is simply superb to work with and his jackets reflect his care for the customer and attention to detail. Moreover, Alan will modify anything you want on any jacket or even create a new jacket for you and he'll work with you the whole way and keep you informed at every step. Search the boards here for "Lando", he had some awesome jackets made by Johnson and was the primary driver for my Johnson Leathers purchase. I cannot tell you how much I am looking forward to by dark brown finished cow M-120 with OD Green knits (thanks again to Lando for the idea).

 

[Worf]

I am new around here (hello everyone), but I have a Vanson and a Lost Worlds, with a Johnson Leathers on the way (after handling a test jacket for sizing). So, limiting my thoughts to the companies I have experience with:

Vanson makes a solid, gorgeous jacket with reasonable customer service, great fit and a wait that is not incomprehensibly long. When I was searching for a new cafe racer, I looked at all the usual suspects, including Schott, went with Vanson and could not be happier. My Vanson (an AR2) is only about 5 months old but I have worn it every chance I could (with no small amount of harassment from my wife during the warmer months) in all sorts of weather and it still looks brand new - better even. I have never held a jacket this solid, it feels like a mobile fortress; it still stands up on its own. Also, search around for Worf's latest Vanson threads for something a bit different aesthetically for the company, but completely awesome (I'm jealous).

Lost Worlds makes a great jacket with, in my experience, somewhat screwy sizing and ANTI-customer service. My jacket is beautiful, but at least a size larger than tagged and the difficulty of dealing with anyone at LW means it will be the last jacket I ever buy from them, which is a shame because most of their stuff looks great. That said, your experience may be completely different, so they are worth looking into.

Johnson Leathers is less well known, except around the FL, but Alan is simply superb to work with and his jackets reflect his care for the customer and attention to detail. Moreover, Alan will modify anything you want on any jacket or even create a new jacket for you and he'll work with you the whole way and keep you informed at every step. Search the boards here for "Lando", he had some awesome jackets made by Johnson and was the primary driver for my Johnson Leathers purchase. I cannot tell you how much I am looking forward to by dark brown finished cow M-120 with OD Green knits (thanks again to Lando for the idea).

I've worked with both Johnson Leathers and Vanson and couldn't agree more. Johnson Leathers has the BEST customer service I've EVER dealt with. Prompt, personable and completely first rate. Vanson's a step behind ONLY because of the volume they put out. When I went there they treated us like "kings" and the remodel on my "Ike" was first rate! Both outfits and Langlitz as well act like your business is a privilege NOT an inconvenience and they work hard to get it and keep it! Cafeblitz could not be more correct.

Worf