Help me not screw up my first aero / thurston / bootlegger order

[Rich22]

I'm in the process of ordering a custom fit aero bootlegger through thurston and, given this is my first rodeo, want to try not to totally whiff on this one as much as possible. I'd love to get everyone's feedback on fit as well as final details.

Carrie at Thurston has been a pleasure to deal with. For the Bootlegger, they send out a Hooch Hauler as a test jacket in your anticipated size, you take a bunch of photos, and they provide guidance. I think Carrie's guidance has been good, but like everyone here, I'm probably a bit obsessive-compulsive ha, so my desire to solicit opinions has nothing to do with a shortcoming on Thurston's part. I've also seen people like @ton312 order a lot of jackets and no offense ton but I'd like to, like, not do that, though I appreciate the dedication to perfection.

About me -

I'm 6'4"
195 ish
Slightly over 43" chest circumference in a t-shirt, 44" (relaxed) / 45" (flexed) in a light sweater over a t-shirt. I will want to layer in this.
Crazy long arms (though otherwise a lot of stuff would fit off the rack)
Bigger lats and forearms (rock climber) and broad shoulders
I'd also add that I'm quickly coming up on 40, don't ride a motorcycle (unfortunately), and am past wearing skin tight clothes.
This will also be my first CXL jacket so I have no first hand experience of how things break in / stretch out.

Based on the above, Carrie sent me a Hooch Hauler in a 44, in a very thick natural CXL.
Here's what Carrie said - "The Brown CXL FQHH won't be quite as heavy as the Natural CXL FQHH of the fit jacket...the current batch of Natural CXL is super heavy (around 1.5-1.6mm), whereas the typical thickness of CXL FQHH is about 1.2-1.4mm. That will make the same jacket feel a little lighter and a little more flexible (easier break-in)."

In terms of details on the order, I'm thinking -

Brown CXL FQHH because I must
Matching stitching NOT contrast stitching
Olive Sateen lining
Brass Zips
Delete lapel button hole
Inner pocket
Non button cuffs
Regular back no gussets no action back
Epalutes yes or delete? Still contemplating

The test jacket that arrived was beautiful, I mean the natural CXL is honestly to die for -

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^ All the above with just a t-shirt

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^ With a VERY thick 346 Merz Schwanen hoodie in size 8, this won't be typical

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^ In a more typical William Lockie Lambswool sweater, which I take a 46 in. This pushes my chest to 44.5/45 and as you can see this is as far forward I can move my arms before I get 'stuck'

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^ Another sweater photo. With this amount of opening I'd assume the jacket would be the most comfortable as if it was closed.

Personally, I like roomier fits under which I can layer. But it is always a fine line between roomy and too loose that has to be balanced. I also live in a warm climate so realistically I'll only probably layer <25% of the time, but it is important that it is possible.

For context, here is what I would consider a good fit -

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Based on the above photos, here were Carrie's recommendations -

"For an equivalent size in the standard Bootlegger, you would take a size 40. The chest, shoulders and waist will be pretty much the same as the 44 Hooch Hauler. However, the arm holes are just a little lower and the sleeves are a little wider on the Bootlegger. Not sure that this would be at all noticeable though!"

I also asked if I could try a size up but that wasn't in stock -

"We don't have the next size up (46) in stock, but a second fit jacket isn't typically used when a person only needs to go up or down one size. The measurements for the next size up are predictable, so we know that you would have 2 more inches in the total chest circumference, 2 more inches in the total waist circumference and .5" in the shoulder width.

Given that the jacket felt snug in the thickest leather we've seen from Aero, you would probably be happiest to stick with the same size for your custom order. In the Brown FQHH, the same size will feel just a little roomier and it will certainly break in to soften and feel much more comfortable!"

Now, I've seen a lot of jackets on the lounge that I feel are too tight, so I'm contemplating what to do here. Do I ...

- Do a 40 Bootlegger?
- Do a 42?
- Do something in between a la @ton312 with 1/2 in added to each side panel? This was mentioned here - https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-bootlegger-v-2-0-cxl-brown.92525/page-8

Also in terms of fit ...

- I feel like the length is fine unless people feel differently. I wouldn't go longer.
- Sleeves need 3cm more based on my measurements. I don't like super long sleeves personally, so this should finish right at the end of my wrist bone where my hand begins.
- Forearms feel like they could be roomier but maybe that is just the newness of the leather.

Thoughts?

How far did you get with the purchasing process? I'm curious to see how this turned out.