Help me choose my first fur felt!

[BobC]

I had a pleasant interaction with Mr. Miller as well. Panama Bob sent him a semi-colado Panama for him to block for me. After I received it I called Gus to thank him for the fine job he did. We visited for a while about hats and hatmaking and about people he knows from around my area.

 

[Boris K]

.

I am glad you responded Boris. I remembered that you had a very nice Gus Miller Bogart hat, but I couldn't find the thread. I think that style of hat would look very nice on Hat Head.

Univibe88
Thanks, here is the thread link (my photos have been re-uploaded as well, don't know what happened there...)
New Gus Miller Custom "Bogart" Thread

I agree, that style would look great on Hat Head.

 

[Spats McGee]

I don't own any fur felts yet. Well, my Stylemaster is in transit, but it's not in my hands yet, so I don't think that counts. Anyway, that puts me in a poor position to advise anyone on the "best" fur felt hat to buy for a first one. However, I did do quite a bit of research before I ordered my Stylemaster, and I continue to bargain-hunt for the next one, so I'll share what I've figured out.

Please note that I'm not affiliated with any hat vendor. For that matter, I haven't ordered from any of the ones I've listed below, so I can't vouch for customer service from any of them. They may be fantastic, they may be terrible. I just don't have any experience with that aspect.

TheFedoraStore.com has a clearance section that I believe includes hats that have been returned, in addition to whatever other closeouts they have. I say this because, for several weeks, their selection included a Dobbs fur felt in "Mink" color, complete with wind trolley, on which I had my eye. As it was available in only one size and one color, I think that one was a return. Also, the top of their clearance page says: "Overstock, Odd Sizes, Returns."

Hats-plus.com has a sale section, as well. It's not updated all that often, but there are several nice hats in it. Their prices seem pretty good compared to other vendors, but I've never ordered anything from them, so I can't speak to customer service.

Akubras, of course, have already been recommended. The Australian Dollar has been rising and falling, and as of today, it's pretty low. Obviously, I went with the Stylemaster for my 1st fur felt, but I ordered it almost exactly 2 months ago and it just shipped late last week. Not all Akubras take that long, though. Some are in stock, some have to be special ordered.

Hats in the Belfry has the lowest price on a new fur felt that I found. It's the Belfry Bogart at ~$50. It only comes as pictured on the website, black with a center dent (I asked if I could get it with a teardrop, so that's how I know), but I don't own this one, either, so I don't know about its quality.

VillageHatShop has a sale section, but it's a little tricky to find. Go to "Hats by Style" and look for "Hats On Sale." They also have a few Jaxon fur felts, like the Bogart and the Iconoclast which are currently reasonably priced. (I think the Bogart is ~$68 and the Iconoclast is ~$60 right now.) I don't own either of those hats, so (like the others) I don't know about the quality.

Hope this turns out to be of some help. Good luck on the hunt!

 

[Subvet642]

I don't own any fur felts yet. Well, my Stylemaster is in transit, but it's not in my hands yet, so I don't think that counts. Anyway, that puts me in a poor position to advise anyone on the "best" fur felt hat to buy for a first one. However, I did do quite a bit of research before I ordered my Stylemaster, and I continue to bargain-hunt for the next one, so I'll share what I've figured out.

Please note that I'm not affiliated with any hat vendor. For that matter, I haven't ordered from any of the ones I've listed below, so I can't vouch for customer service from any of them. They may be fantastic, they may be terrible. I just don't have any experience with that aspect.

TheFedoraStore.com has a clearance section that I believe includes hats that have been returned, in addition to whatever other closeouts they have. I say this because, for several weeks, their selection included a Dobbs fur felt in "Mink" color, complete with wind trolley, on which I had my eye. As it was available in only one size and one color, I think that one was a return. Also, the top of their clearance page says: "Overstock, Odd Sizes, Returns."

Hats-plus.com has a sale section, as well. It's not updated all that often, but there are several nice hats in it. Their prices seem pretty good compared to other vendors, but I've never ordered anything from them, so I can't speak to customer service.

Akubras, of course, have already been recommended. The Australian Dollar has been rising and falling, and as of today, it's pretty low. Obviously, I went with the Stylemaster for my 1st fur felt, but I ordered it almost exactly 2 months ago and it just shipped late last week. Not all Akubras take that long, though. Some are in stock, some have to be special ordered.

Hats in the Belfry has the lowest price on a new fur felt that I found. It's the Belfry Bogart at ~$50. It only comes as pictured on the website, black with a center dent (I asked if I could get it with a teardrop, so that's how I know), but I don't own this one, either, so I don't know about its quality.

VillageHatShop has a sale section, but it's a little tricky to find. Go to "Hats by Style" and look for "Hats On Sale." They also have a few Jaxon fur felts, like the Bogart and the Iconoclast which are currently reasonably priced. (I think the Bogart is ~$68 and the Iconoclast is ~$60 right now.) I don't own either of those hats, so (like the others) I don't know about the quality.

Hope this turns out to be of some help. Good luck on the hunt!

I recently bought a hat from TheFedoraStore.com, and I have to say the service was excellent. I got my hat in 2 working days and it was flawless. I would order from them again in a heartbeat!

 

[jdbenson]

Gus plus another option

Hat Head - It's nice to see another Cincinnatian in the Lounge!

Gus is indeed a bit gruff at times. He certainly treated me that way the first time I walked in. But when I went in a second time, I brought in a vintage Stylepark fedora in need of his TLC. Suddenly he warmed right up. We talked for about 30 mins and he was great...he told me that hat was older than he was! I think he sees a lot of foot traffic from people who don't know much about hats and aren't interested in learning.

But if you really don't want to deal with Gus, I know of a vintage clothing store in Reading (about 10 miles north of downtown Cincy) called Talk of the Town that has a number of WONDERFUL vintage hats for under $75. The only drawback is most of them are small (sizes 6 7/8 to 7 1/4) with brims 2" or under. I was there last Friday and they had a number of Cavanaughs with the Cav Edge and a couple that looked unworn.

 

[besdor]

From looking at those prices, the hats are probably made in either China or by Tonak. There is no way that the hats could be made in the UK and retail for 50 pounds. Thats only 75 USD.
I wouldn't expect much from them. For a little more you can buy a Biltmore hat and get a better product .





Steven
www.bencrafthats.com

 

[Hat Head]

Hat Head - It's nice to see another Cincinnatian in the Lounge!

Gus is indeed a bit gruff at times. He certainly treated me that way the first time I walked in. But when I went in a second time, I brought in a vintage Stylepark fedora in need of his TLC. Suddenly he warmed right up. We talked for about 30 mins and he was great...he told me that hat was older than he was! I think he sees a lot of foot traffic from people who don't know much about hats and aren't interested in learning.

But if you really don't want to deal with Gus, I know of a vintage clothing store in Reading (about 10 miles north of downtown Cincy) called Talk of the Town that has a number of WONDERFUL vintage hats for under $75. The only drawback is most of them are small (sizes 6 7/8 to 7 1/4) with brims 2" or under. I was there last Friday and they had a number of Cavanaughs with the Cav Edge and a couple that looked unworn.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[leo]

Dang, jdbenson, just where is that vintage store in Cincy. I live in the Dayton area and that is a short drive.

And Hathead, not to beat up the subject, but I've bought from Batsakes even before they moved to the current location and experiences have varied from "Manhatten brusk" to talk your ear off to leave me in the store along while he chased a shoplifter down the street. I've got a hankering to get back down there next weekend for a hat cuz I can't wait for my Nate's custom ;-)

Bill

 

[leo]

Dang, jdbenson, just where is that vintage store in Cincy. I live in the Dayton area and that is a short drive.
Bill

Never mind. I just let my keyboard do the walking...9111 Reading Road.

Bill

 

[TopGumby]

I'll chime in for Akubra as being lots of hat for the buck right now. I love my Stylemaster, and will probably order another fur felt Akubra.

 

[NonEntity]

Welcome to the abyss of finer hats, Hat Head; it's a bottomless pit from which there is no escape.

First off, fugeddaboud Hornet Hats. As the other poster said, that's cheap Chinese crap. Steer clear of the low-end fur felt brands like Jaxon; you won't have one a month before you realize it would have been much smarter to have saved that $50 or $60 and put into a bit more expensive and much better hat. Avoid Scala fur felts because they're $100+ and a poor value for the quality.

At the other extreme, postpone going to Gus for a hat, even if you get over his sometimes off-putting demeanor and the thick accent. He makes an outstanding hat, but it's way too early in your hat career to go there or any custom hat maker. It'll be much more rewarding on down the road to select a custom hat once you learn more about what looks good on your noggin and hats in general. Same with vintage--you gotta really know old hats to make sure you're not throwing your money away.

OK, so you basically need a new, relatively dressy quality fur felt hat in an earth tone.

Akubra has already been mentioned and will be again and again, and the reason is that it's a trully excellent hat at a moderate price made extremely affordable right now due to the favorable U.S. vs. Aussie dollar conversion (usually less than $100 with S & H if you buy one from an Aussie vendor, like Everything Australian or HatsDirect). Though Akubras are best known for outback/outdoorsy styles, dressy models to consider include:

Sydney (AKA Fedora)--open crown, 2.5-in brim, in regency fawn. Snappy brim, but very soft crown, so it's both comfortable and easy to bash.

Stylemaster--pinch-front telescope crown higher in front than rear, 2.5-in brim, in acorn fawn. Classic 1930s fedora pairs well with your Thompson.

Adventurer--open crown, 2.75 X 3.125-in dimensional brim, in mid-brown. Forget that this is similar to the Indiana Jones hat; it's sharp on its own merits.

Federation--there are several versions of this model, the general consensus being that it's an absolutely great hat, though the Deluxe is at a higher price point than most Akubras. This site is chock full of info on all four iterations of it.

Narrower brim Akubras you might glance at are the Hampton and the Whippet.

Now, Biltmore. This is a Canadian company that rumor had it was going down or was going to be acquired, but it's still chugging along making very good hats. All have a comfortable leather sweatband, are fully and nicely lined with silk, and most feature a distinctive rich and plush sueded fur felt finish.

Personally, I have only one, the rather over-the-top Tyrolean, the classic green Alpine trilby with the huge badger brush on the side worn by men in films staring up at mountain summits muttering "because it's there." But the point is that this hat I've had since college has really stood the test of time and the elements. This, of course, is not a Biltmore I'd recommend for you, but these are:

Polar Canadian Suede--pinch-front center dent crown, 2.125-in snap brim, in black oak (dark brown). A fine, dressy hat with a brim just shy of stingy.

Rosellini Luauro--tapered pinch-front center dent crown, 2.25-in snap brim, triple-pleated grosgrain band, in sandstone (a light fawn, nowhere near sand). Biltmore's top-of-the-line fedora with a super-smooth finish.

I noticed that the notoriously overpriced Mens Hats has reduced this model recently to $165 from last year's $235, so you might be able to find it much cheaper somewhere.

You said you liked Christys', and I do, too--the ones still made in jolly old England--and therein lies the source of their only problem: expense. Maybe someone here will see this post and know where to find this 'round-about $200 model at a bargain:

Fur Felt Trilby--shallow pinch-front crown with center dent, 2.25-in brim, 9-ligne grosgrain band with side bow, in sable (brown). This is the real deal, the traditional conservative trilby, soft, fully lined, with leather sweat band.

Two quick personal examples to hopefully help you make your decision:

First, I was strongly considering a Biltmore Rosellini Luauro last Christmas, and some kind person here found it for a low $125, but I went with an Akubra Sydney instead, because, at $106 back then, it was still a better value.

Second, facing considerable business air travel up north in late winter, I needed a crushable fur felt fedora and narrowed my choices down to the Akubra Casual or the Christys' Fur Felt Foldaway, the one that comes with the cute little red storage cylinder. Akubra, $104 versus Christys', $195? That was a no-brainer; the tube was not worth an additional $91.

So, you see why Akubra is so popular. It's an outstanding value. I'd really like to expand into more brands--just for variety--but I rarely do because it just does not make sound economic sense. If you make rationale decisions, you'll probably purchase an Akubra.

Good luck, and I hope this verbose post helps.

 

[leo]

...postpone going to Gus for a hat...way too early in your hat career to go there or any custom hat maker...

I have to respectfully disagree. Batsakes is first a regular hat shop with a variety of brands and types in stock and walk-in trade. I bought two or three hats there over the last decade and did not even know he made custom hats until reading about it here. And there are other employees who are likely to wait on you besides Gus himself. Nothing says you cannot simply browse the selection to learn something.

If you get over to Columbus you can check out Hat & Sole in Bexley on the near east side. They carry a number of brands that don't overlap with Batsakes. This time of year is good at either shop for winter models.

Bill

 

[LordBest]

From looking at those prices, the hats are probably made in either China or by Tonak. There is no way that the hats could be made in the UK and retail for 50 pounds. Thats only 75 USD.
I wouldn't expect much from them. For a little more you can buy a Biltmore hat and get a better product .

Funny you should mention that, someone just told me they stopped buying Akubra after they found that they were made in China, does anyone know about this? First I had heard of this, and I hope it is not true.
For that matter, can anyone confirm that the hats Hornet sells are made in China, I just bought one of the dratted things thinking I was getting a proper English made hat.

 

[Rick Blaine]

From looking at those prices, the hats are probably made in either China or by Tonak. There is no way that the hats could be made in the UK and retail for 50 pounds. Thats only 75 USD.
I wouldn't expect much from them. For a little more you can buy a Biltmore hat and get a better product . QUOTE]
Funny you should mention that, someone just told me they stopped buying Akubra after they found that they were made in China, does anyone know about this? First I had heard of this, and I hope it is not true.
For that matter, can anyone confirm that the hats Hornet sells are made in China, I just bought one of the dratted things thinking I was getting a proper English made hat.

All I can tell you is that inside both my Christy's foldaway (not from Hornethats) & the Adventurer (from Hornethats) it states "Made In England".

 

[LordBest]

All I can tell you is that inside both my Christy's foldaway (not from Hornethats) & the Adventurer (from Hornethats) it states "Made In England".

Well, that is a relief, thank you.

 

[Hat Head]

I appreciate all the advice, and the detailed analysis by NonEntity was great.

I've already put in an order at Hornet Hats for a Christys' Knightsbridge style in Maize. Total cost, including shipping, was about $108 after the currency conversion.

Once the hat arrives, I'll post pics and give my opinion of it.

If anyone in the Ohio or Kentucky area with a high-end, custom hat would like to also see the hat and offer their opinion, let's arrange a meeting for lunch or something and talk about hats. I cover OH and KY as my sales territory, so at some point in the upcoming weeks I'll likely be in your area.

 

[metropd]

I have a custom Gus Miller and love it more than any hat I have. It is very ironic that 2 hours ago I ordered the Knightsbridge from Hornets Hats. Hornets custom makes all there hats too. Just shoot them an email specifying if you would like a different brim width or band. I have heard Rave reviews with Hornets and the price for a christy's hat with shipping is such a steal it should be Grand Larceny.:eusa_clap

On the other hand No Hatter makes a hat that has a more 30's and 40's feel than Gus Miller. Most likley You will have to shape it yourself but it is very easy to do. He cranks them out in no time. You will be very impressed either way. The Cristy's hat is a much better value than the Akubra and if you decide to spend it on the Gus Miller you will be most pleased. I have very high expectations for this Christy's hat, and i know I won't be dissapointed.

 

[metropd]

Just in case you decide to go with the Gus Miller next time

This is my Gus Miller fedora.

The style is called the "Nicholas Engel"

It very funny we both ordered the same hat from Hornets.

 

[NonEntity]

Hathead,

Sorry I mispoke about the Christys' form Hornet Hats being cheap Chinese crap. I was simply reasoning that if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. That's a helluva bargain! Naturally, post pics when it arrives.

But you could have gotten almost two equally-good-if-not-better Akubras from Everything Australian for that, including shipping.

OK, I'll shut up now.

 

[metropd]

Please post pics of yourself in your new Christy's hat. I would love to see it when it arrives.