help me choose a cafe racer (first leather jacket)

[ribeyemediumrare]

Also when I get my test jacket how much tightness and mobility should be acceptable if I want a trim fit? Are there certain things like hugging myself or holding my arms straight up or something that I should be able to do with a non-broken in jacket? Should I expect any part of the leather to stretch out some to my body? For instance, I know with boots chromexcel is kind of known to stretch out bit.

 

[handymike]

Carrie knows her stuff. Tell her what you want, get the try on jacket, and trust.

 

[El Marro]

Yeah I'm thinking if I should get rid of the handwarmer pockets, I don't see myself actually using them but who knows.

On this style of jacket (particularly the J-100) handwarmer pockets look really out of place in my opinion. I would make sure that the jacket had a horizontal pocket on the inside and leave the handwarmers off.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Forget the shoulder gussets, I never found them to improve mobility.
If you are going to remove the kidney panel, don't forget to have them remove the interior one as well. This applies to the CR more than the BR but Carrie is probably already on top of that detail.

 

[ribeyemediumrare]

Forget the shoulder gussets, I never found them to improve mobility.
If you are going to remove the kidney panel, don't forget to have them remove the interior one as well. This applies to the CR more than the BR but Carrie is probably already on top of that detail.

Im guessing the interior panel would eventually show through right? What about the back vertical seam, does it actually improve fit, I've heard both that its purely aesthetics and that it somehow allows a closer fit in the back. Would an inside pocket without any closure take away from the fit at all? I'm not sure I would use it but it wouldn't make sense to remove if it have no cons.

 

[ProteinNerd]

TBH it doesn't take long, if any time at all, for the interior kidney panel to show through the back of the jacket.

I had a BR jacket with the vertical seam and I don't think it helped the fit compared to jackets that didn't have it. I also read, on the Aero website maybe?, that it allows a closer fit but I couldn't tell any difference and I personally prefer the look of the J100 style back with no kidney panel or vertical seam.

I always put an interior pocket on my custom jackets, its just too useful imo. I've had some where you couldn't tell it was there and some where you could.....its a bit of a gamble but I find a jacket without is always lacking and I consider leather jackets, especially CR, to be inherently casual so its no big deal.

 

[Skanstull]

A 'Buco J100' Aero Board Racer - would that imply any other mods than the elimination of the kidney panel/straight yoke instead? Is a Board Racer identical in design features apart from that?

 

[ribeyemediumrare]

A 'Buco J100' Aero Board Racer - would that imply any other mods than the elimination of the kidney panel/straight yoke instead? Is a Board Racer identical in design features apart from that?

From what I understand the j-100 also has non slanted chest pockets and the less floppy collar type, and is typically only a 2 pocket front. Also they usually have the diamond chain pulls. Thats how they are configured by Thurston at least. I'm getting the regular floppy board racer collar on mine and ball and chain pulls. I'm still not sure yet if I want a 2 pocket or 4 pocket front, I probably wouldn't use the hand pockets so they would just be a visual feature.

 

[ribeyemediumrare]

TBH it doesn't take long, if any time at all, for the interior kidney panel to show through the back of the jacket.

I had a BR jacket with the vertical seam and I don't think it helped the fit compared to jackets that didn't have it. I also read, on the Aero website maybe?, that it allows a closer fit but I couldn't tell any difference and I personally prefer the look of the J100 style back with no kidney panel or vertical seam.

I always put an interior pocket on my custom jackets, its just too useful imo. I've had some where you couldn't tell it was there and some where you could.....its a bit of a gamble but I find a jacket without is always lacking and I consider leather jackets, especially CR, to be inherently casual so its no big deal.

I'll definitely specify they remove both kidney panels then! I don't design garments of any kind but I honestly have no clue how a seam would allow the back to be more fitted, maybe it's just easier for them to taper at the back seam when there is no side panels idk. I think I saw Carrie say that it makes no difference in the vicenca hh thread but I'll mention it to her when I tell her how much I need the waist brought in. If anyone can explain how this might affect fit or taper I'd be really interested.

 

[patrick_b]

Can you spec an aero cafe racer without the shoulder gussets? I found the CR fits better than the BR but I like the simple back panel sans gussets.

 

[ribeyemediumrare]

Can you spec an aero cafe racer without the shoulder gussets? I found the CR fits better than the BR but I like the simple back panel sans gussets.

Yeah they can do a complete j-100 style on the CR cut, its just a bit extra to spec it out like that.

 

[ribeyemediumrare]

Got my fit jacket in today, a size vicenza 44 board racer. The waist definitely needs to be taken in. The chest and shoulders feel comfortable just standing but feel kinda tight once I raise my arms or try to hug myself. Shoulder seams flare up a bit, not sure if this would go away after break in. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[handymike]

Maybe try the cafe racer...
This one looks too tight up top.

 

[Psant25]

Agree I think the cafe racer would be better with wider shoulder and lotta taper

 

[Arizor]

Yep seems very tight on the chest, especially considering you're just wearing a tee (I think?). The shoulders look very tight too, must feel very restrictive.

 

[torfjord]

I have to agree with @handymike, it looks too tight over the chest, back and shoulders.


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[Seb Lucas]

Looks a size too small. It's certainly too tight. But it should be said that some people go for this look.

 

[zebedee]

It's not as tight as my old one was. It'll probably give a bit over time.

I resorted to fast days, swimming and systema exercises. Jacket fit better after a month of that, but I couldn't make it longer, sadly.

 

[Mich486]

Not the right pattern for your body type. You need something boxier/blousoning or if you like things to fit tight something more v-shaped would work better.

To be honest I’ll just give up weights all together for a bit and just do some running, you’ll look better without all that mass and you’ll be able to wear what you want.


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[jacketjunkie]

I would want it to be an inch wider in the shoulders and that's about it. Fits good in the body, length in body and sleeves good too. You should indeed consider swapping for the Cafe Racer pattern, it has wider shoulders and more taper through the body; it may be suited better for your body shape.