Help, Ladies! A Restoration Crisis!!

[Grace]

Some of you may remember this dress that I posted on the purchases thread. A gorgeous 1930s rayon satin gown. I'm leaving on a cruise shortly, and I thought that it would be the ideal time to wear such a lovely dress!
It was pretty dirty, water spots all along the hem, various dirt and dinge, and purple rings in the the underarms.
I took it to my dry cleaners who refused to touch it. Now, I've hand washed/restored many vintage items over the years, some much more delicate than this. I decided I'd better just take the plunge and hand wash it myself. I lined the tub in a sheet, as to not stress the fabric, and very gently washed the dress with mild detergent. Everything was going beautifully, until I went to rinse. The back of the skirt had faded badly from improper storage for many years, and the back of the skirt literally started coming a part like wet paper! I've never seen anything like it!

Here's the skirt, pre washing. The holes are (now) right inthe middle of the skirt.

What on earth can I do? How do I back the shredding material? Do I replace it? I was thinking of dying it anyway as the purple underarm rings are still visible.

 

[Viviene]

Grace,

I thought perhaps someone else would post but no such luck. I think it's pretty much a lost cause.

 

[ohairas]

It appears the dress is dryrotted. If you try to dye it would get worse and more water/drying etc. would do more damage.

Now this is just my two cents if it were my dress...
I would try putting an iron on patch or interfacing on the inside of the gown on the ripped/stressed part. Since it is in the middle of the train (I assume??) it would be a good place to add something. Find a fabric that goes with it, perhaps a patterned silky rayon, ect.. with hints of the same color. Maybe a totally contrasting fabric or even a lace. I'd cut a whole new "train overlay".... make it with hook and eyes to attach underneath the rouched sash area. If you don't want to try the iron on stuff I would try to tack it back to gether with needle and thread, but maybe put a peice of fabric on both sides for support.

If you go with lace, you could even do an applique effect along the front hem where the spots are. A rather 30's lingerie effect.

Best wishes. Also, if the gown is so fragile I probably wouldn't take it on a trip where it would have to be packed. I'd also be terrified of my luggage getting lost, lol!

Nikki

 

[CanadaDoll]

Since it's a fancy looking dress maybe take it to a bridal salon to see if they have any recommendations, I would imagine that since they deal with delicate and fussy things they'd know exactly how it would need to be handled, but that's about the only suggestion I have.
I have no clue about dress and fabric restoration so I'm not much help, sorry.

I'm sorry about your beautiful dress, and I hope it works out.

 

[ohairas]

BTW, I personally wouldn't worry about the underarm stains.. just keep your arms down, ha...
Really, it just comes with the vintage territory sometimes and it doesn't botter me.

You could also put lace along the top of the bodice and under the arms too tho.
Nikki

 

[beaucaillou]

ohairas had some great ideas! i'm not that handy, so if it were me, i'd call tailors and restoration specialists or even costumers around town and talk to them. i bet someone is adept enough to take it on, or to come up with some contingency plans. it's too gorgeous to give up on. i hope it works out. let us know what happens!

Cheers!

 

[ohairas]

Just research a bit and think outside the box. Here's another idea if you want to spend the money.. ostrich plumes. VERY 30's.. and would hide many a flaw!
http://www.heavenofgowns.com/shop/30145n.html

Nikki

 

[ohairas]

If the whole is in the middle of the front of the skirt you could add a ruffle of lace the way this dress is cut,
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4576.htm
Even a ruffle of sheer fabric may hide the booboo. Just have to add the new fabric in other places on the gown to blend it in.
This ruffle would go with the lines of the sash.
Can ya tell I just HATE to give up on any of these old beauties? It must be SAVED!

Nikki

 

[Grace]

That's what I was leaning towards, attaching a train of sorts. I don't know how else I could hide the tears, even once they are repaired.
Ostrich feathers would be FANTASTIC, but I'd be afraid to pack it/sit down in it/etc.
The rest of the fabric is very sound, it's just the back of the skirt that's weak.
I love this dress soooooo much that I refuse to give up on it. I told my husband that I will be buried in this dress!!
The purple underarm marks faded just a bit, but they are still rather noticeable as they are a dark, dark purple on a pale pinkish champagne colored background, and they extend about 3 inches down from the pit.
I'm trying to figure the best way to re-enforce the weak area. The weakened area feels a bit papery compared to the rest of it, so the patch would have to extend far past the actual tears.

 

[ohairas]

I'm still going to try the lightweight fusable interfacing on my weak garment one of these days. Doesn't have holes yet tho.
I'd try to find a peice of satin or similar fabric/color to go on top of the holes and fuse to the back of the webbing.

I know you'll come up with something.. so many things would go with this gown, black, white, ecru, velvet...

Nikki

 

[Lady Day]

It a graveyard dress. Sorry. Take it appart to get the cut of the pattern pieces and make a new garment. Online vintage stores have tons of graveyard items for that exact reason: improper storage, old treatment of fabric, chemical treament of fabric braking down. Its sad, but I dont think the dress can be, or is worth saving.

Think about it. If you are IN that garment, moving, sweating, and stressing the fabric with your body, what ELSE will give? Not to mention you will be spending the entire night worrying about the dress and not having a good time.

Sorry sweetie, I feel your dispair.

LD

 

[Jenautica]

It a graveyard dress. Sorry. Take it appart to get the cut of the pattern pieces and make a new garment.

Those are my exact sentiments. Though I know you must be head over heels in love with the dress, you would be able to wear it with more confidence if you didn't have to worry about it falling apart on you. Plus you could have it made to your exact measurements and in any color you wish.

I had this done with a vintage 50's blouse a few years ago. I could never quite get the funky thrift store smell out of it, so I had a coworker remake it for me. I ended up getting a couple made in different colors/patterns.

 

[Grace]

The detailing and construction of this dress is soooo incredible, I don't think I could re-make it. Where could I take it? I have a seamstress I trust for alterations I don't have time to do, but she's not skilled enough to remake a dress of this magnitude.

I'm not giving up on this dress! lol The rest of the fabric is just fine, nice and strong and lustrous. If I can find comparable satin, I can re-make the two back panels.

 

[Lady Day]

That center area was prolly one of the most stressed areas on the garment. You have the pull from the stitching above, and the pull from the weight of the hanging fabric below. If the garment were stored hanging, that would have created the instibility in those two back pannels.

Id look around the rest of the gown (mainly where it hangs) to see if in the fabric, you see gaps in the weave. If so, then you may have more weak points in the gown.

If you can find a fabric that lovely then all the luck in the world lol. But having a pattern drafted from that garment would be a great deed to the gown and the era by preserving its design. Check some design schools and see if there are some fashion students who would love to draft a pattern from it. You may see if they can do it for free (using it as school credit ).

Good luck,

LD

 

[ohairas]

If you want to spend the dough, http://www.ckhall.com/ and www.gwtw4ever.com are two wonderful seamstresses. I'm sure either one of them would be able to whip one up if you sent them the dress for study. I think a true silk satin would be best on this gown.

If you want a nice silk you can dye yourself I love this site,
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/2935094-AA.shtml

a silk velvet would be lovely too.

Nikki

 

[RaasAlHayya]

If the whole is in the middle of the front of the skirt you could add a ruffle of lace the way this dress is cut,
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4576.htm
Even a ruffle of sheer fabric may hide the booboo. Just have to add the new fabric in other places on the gown to blend it in.
This ruffle would go with the lines of the sash.
Can ya tell I just HATE to give up on any of these old beauties? It must be SAVED!

Nikki

This is a fabulous idea. Appliqu?©s of ivory lace over the weak area would look so nice!

--Leslie

 

[Cheesecakecutie]

Just an idea you said about feathers and being afraid to sit down ..but i have sewn a feather boa onto a dress and it looked fab and is fine to sit down in...perhaps you could use a section of one...just a thought. If it were mine i would ignore the under arm stains and wear a stole. as for the rip sew a supporting pieice of fabric on the underside in matching as possible fabric and go for a feather and lace bustle type thing or a big bow in contrasting colour purple ???[huh]

 

[Lauren]

I agree with what Lady Day says. The best way for you to preserve the gown now is to get a pattern made. If you look around where you live for someone specialized in making custom wedding gowns they should have the knowledge needed, or at least know of someone who may help you. It would be better to get a pattern made now than to do a quick fix and have it fall apart on you in a little while. Stay away from fusible anything as the chemicals will not help out the dress at all. If you're still set on having it fixed and the damage is on the center of the back portion, get a reliable seamstress to cut out a portion of the back dress- narrowing the length of the back fullness. This won't last long, though. If the fabric is doing that in one area the rest will generally follow. It's a shame, it's such a lovely dress and I remember your pictures you posted

 

[ohairas]

Grace, another suggestion on the gown is to get all dolled up and wear it for some pictures just the way it is. Do lots of poses. The flaws can be edited out and you'll have it preserved that way forever. Do some color, some sepia... some boa shots. It would be fab!

Nikki

 

[Grace]

I've decided to do 3 things: replace the two back panels with similar satin (since the rest of the fabric is sturdy as can be), have it re-made (when I can afford it! I don't want a shoddy job, and I doubt anyone around my parts could do it, anyway), and have some fabulous pictures taken in it! Love that idea! I could even splurge and get fingerwaves done at the salon first. That would be SO fun!

Thanks so much for all of your help/suggestions, ladies!