Help from Loungers in San Francisco/ Bay area

[Serial Hero]

Hello all,

My wife was offered a Post Doc. position at UC Berkeley so it looks like we’ll be moving after she graduates in December. I know it’s still several months off, but I really like to preplan these things. The most I’ve ever moved in the past (not counting when I was a kid) has been across town, so this is a big step for me.

I visited San Francisco once when I was eight, but I don’t really remember much other than the tour of Alcatraz and guys standing on the street corners begging for change. So does anyone have any tips for moving there; nice places, areas to avoid, that sort of thing. I know rent is crazy there, especially since all my bills here are less than $850 a month. I’m hoping to find a place for between $1100- $1500 a month if that’s reasonable.

Thanks for any help or tips anyone has,

-SH-

 

[Lady Day]

Welcome to the bay!!!

When I first moved to the area, I lived in Sam Mateo. Its....flat. I moved to the citay after a year and some change. I dont know what type of living you are interested in, but I dig the citay.

Rent will prolly be a bit cheaper down the bay than in the citay, and you will more than likely get more space as well.

Here, depending on what type of place and area you are looking at, you can get a good sized pad for about $1100-$1600 for a studio, and $1200-2000 for a good one bedroom. Also, if you have an area in mind, look a couple of blocks outside of it, rents can change by the block in the citay.

Craigslist.org is a great place to start to get a feel for rents all around the bay.
Plus there are a lot of Loungers here, Im sure some will be more than willing to show a newbie the ropes.

Good luck to you and your misses.

LD

 

[Mike1939]

You can check sfbay.craigslist.org/ for the current rates on apartments and whats available in the city. Rents are definitely cheaper in the East Bay area, the farther East the cheaper. San Francisco's a great city, I've lived downtown and by the park and love both areas. Personally I'd check out the Tenderloin and the Mission district for more reasonable rents if I decided to move back. Once you find a decent rent you're safe with rent control.

 

[Lincsong]

Depends on what do you mean by "avoid". I'm a born and bred local boy and I avoid; San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, Richmond.

$1100-$1500 a month? hmmm Again it's what are you looking for. That type of rent will get you something in various sizes in; San Leandro, Castro Valley, Dublin, Livermore, maybe Concord. How far are you willing to commute? And What type of place are you looking for?

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

Depends on what do you mean by "avoid". I'm a born and bred local boy and I avoid; San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, Richmond.

Seconded.

 

[Miss Neecerie]

On the other hand...she will be a post-doc, and thus at the University -all- the time......you really don't want a super long commute if you ever wish to see each other!

 

[The Wolf]

I look forward to being in the area

Checking east of the city sounds good. It used to be the City was expensive and people moved north and it got more expensive as people migrated. Santa Rosa (my area) is even expensive. Some people move to Lake County (north of S.F., past Marin County, past Sonoma County) and commute. Avoid doing that.
I know I wasn't much help but good luck!

Sincerely,
the Wolf

 

[jazzbass]

Depends on what do you mean by "avoid". I'm a born and bred local boy and I avoid; San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, Richmond.

Hmmmm

Depends on your persepctive I guess. I am also a local born and bred guy and I try to avoid San Leandro, Castro Valley, Dublin, Livermore, Walnut Creek and Concord. San Francisco and Berkeley are alive and vital and actually have a culture and art--the other places are just the bland boring 'burbs.



bob

 

[Bebop]

It depends on what type of lifestyle you are seeking. You can get cheaper rent east of S.F. or N. like Vallejo or Fairfield but the So. Bay seems as pricey as S.F. proper and the commute into S.F. seems to always be a sore point with people I know that live in Hayward. If you like the S.F. style of city living, I would take a look at the Richmond part of the City. I live at the ocean, at the end of Geary St., by the Cliff House and find that the loud, active, beat of S.F. homeless, traffic, parking problems, crime and constant activity is just a few minutes away ( just in case I feel like going crazy once in a while ) yet not in my neighborhood. It is also cooler and foggy here. S.F. has micro-climates so you might want to think about that. A lot of out of towners freeze in the summer coolness.

 

[Haversack]

Welcome. I greatly second the idea that you need to address the length and quality of your commutes in your decision of where to live here. Long commutes will wear on you cummulately and will eat into the ammount of free time you have to spend. That being said, if your wife is going to be working at Cal in Berkeley, then certain choices are more possible than others.

First: The Bay Area is served by a variety of pretty good, (for the US), public transit systems. While not perfect, they are a viable option to driving, (and parking!), everyday. Most are designed to get commuters in and out of San Francisco. However, Berkeley is not horribly underserved. See here for the entire list: http://www.abag.ca.gov/abag/local_gov/transit.html

Second: Anywhere in Marin or down the Peninsula will involve driving and will include a twice daily bridge crossing so I would recommend looking elsewhere.

Third: The towns immediately around Berkeley vary. These include Albany to the north, Emeryville to the southwest, Oakland to the south, and Richmond to the northwest. A general rule for these towns is the the flatter and closer to the Bay, the more industrial they are. The higher you go into the hills to the east, the more expensive it gets. These are the closest towns and would involve short commutes. Further afield, to the east of Berkeley are several towns strung along a freeway which are funneled through three tunnels through the hills immediately to the east of Berkeley. Suburban but with a lot of hills and trees.

Fourth: The Bay Area Rapid Transit, (BART), http://www.bart.gov/stations/map/systemmap.asp makes the towns strung along the East Bay to the south a viable option. Others here can give you their opinions on the qualities of San Leandro, Hayward, Union City, and Fremont.

Fifth: BART can also make Ssn Francisco and Daly City immediatly to the southwest of it a viable option if one is close to a station. A Word of Warning for public transit: The more changes one has to make, the longer and less reliable the commute will be.

Sixth: Consider also where are you going to work and its effect on your commute. Sometimes it is better to split the difference between you. Sometimes it is better to make it easier for one or the other.

Seventh, Cal has several resources for people moving here from out of the area in order to work there. Have your wife ask about them. There has been in the past an online community resource for graduate students at Cal as well.

There is a lot of variety in the towns and neighborhoods here. Climate, crime, landscape, cultural mix, recreation, usw. As you start to consider your options, ask more specific questions. My detailed knowledge is more City/Peninsula than East Bay.

Haversack

 

[Jack Scorpion]

Berkeley has nice areas. However, I was only an undergrad-student there and I don't think you want my poor student hindsight advice. Just don't live on the south side, unless it is off College Ave.

The Lake Merritt area of Oakland is very nice and affordable (in comparison to San Francisco prices at least).

 

[Miss Dottie]

True, you probably want to stay in the East Bay if your wife is getting her degree from there. But at the same time, that might allow for more flexibility if she doesn't have that many classes.

Living in SF is a wonderful experience but it's best when you live and work there.

You'll find cheaper rent in the East Bay. I suggest Alameda, a lovely little gem of an island that is 15-20 minutes away from UC Berkeley. My sweetie and I moved there about a year and a half ago after living in the city for 10+ years. We love our little isle of style with its monthly vintage flea market and the best tiki bar in the Bay Area.

People can live in the Bay Area for their entire lives and never visit Alameda--it's sort of a secret, but you can find a nice size place for $1200-1500 easy there. For rentals in Alameda check out www.hbrhomes.com.

Good luck with your search!

 

[jamespowers]

Seconded.

Thirded.

 

[Amelie]

True, you probably want to stay in the East Bay if your wife is getting her degree from there. But at the same time, that might allow for more flexibility if she doesn't have that many classes.

Living in SF is a wonderful experience but it's best when you live and work there.

You'll find cheaper rent in the East Bay. I suggest Alameda, a lovely little gem of an island that is 15-20 minutes away from UC Berkeley. My sweetie and I moved there about a year and a half ago after living in the city for 10+ years. We love our little isle of style with its monthly vintage flea market and the best tiki bar in the Bay Area.

People can live in the Bay Area for their entire lives and never visit Alameda--it's sort of a secret, but you can find a nice size place for $1200-1500 easy there. For rentals in Alameda check out www.hbrhomes.com.

Good luck with your search!

awww now I want to live there

 

[Serial Hero]

Thanks everyone for the replies it’s been a lot of help. Sorry it’s taken some time for me to get back to this thread.

I’m thinking the east bay is probably the way to go. Someplace within a 20 to 30 minute commute of Berkeley would be nice but I can travel farther if I have to.

By areas to avoid, I mean high crime high poverty areas. I’ve heard Oakland is bad.

The simple boring ‘burbs works great for me. An apartment, condo or housing complex that has lots of green areas or a house on a nice tree lined street, a place where I can take the dog out for a calm 30 minute walk at 10:00pm and not have to worry about getting mugged or shot.

The $1100- $1500 I just kind of threw out there because that’s what I’ve heard. Is that reasonable or should I plan to pay more than that? I would like at least a 2 bedroom.
What’s the cost of living like?

Thanks again

-SH-

 

[jamespowers]

Thanks everyone for the replies it’s been a lot of help. Sorry it’s taken some time for me to get back to this thread.

I’m thinking the east bay is probably the way to go. Someplace within a 20 to 30 minute commute of Berkeley would be nice but I can travel farther if I have to.

By areas to avoid, I mean high crime high poverty areas. I’ve heard Oakland is bad.

The simple boring ‘burbs works great for me. An apartment, condo or housing complex that has lots of green areas or a house on a nice tree lined street, a place where I can take the dog out for a calm 30 minute walk at 10:00pm and not have to worry about getting mugged or shot.

The $1100- $1500 I just kind of threw out there because that’s what I’ve heard. Is that reasonable or should I plan to pay more than that? I would like at least a 2 bedroom.
What’s the cost of living like?

Thanks again

-SH-

Just keep in mind that the last study out rated Oakland as one of the most dangerous cities in America. For good reason I might add. :eusa_doh:

Regards,

J

 

[Serial Hero]

Just keep in mind that the last study out rated Oakland as one of the most dangerous cities in America. For good reason I might add. :eusa_doh:

Regards,

J

Any other ‘burbs around there you recommend staying clear of?

 

[jamespowers]

Any other ‘burbs around there you recommend staying clear of?

Well, Richmond is another city on the most dangerous list---just a few down from Oakland actually. [huh]
Alameda was a good suggestion and so were several others mentioned by Linc and a few here.

Regards,

J

 

[Lincsong]

Thanks everyone for the replies it’s been a lot of help. Sorry it’s taken some time for me to get back to this thread.

I’m thinking the east bay is probably the way to go. Someplace within a 20 to 30 minute commute of Berkeley would be nice but I can travel farther if I have to.

By areas to avoid, I mean high crime high poverty areas. I’ve heard Oakland is bad.

The simple boring ‘burbs works great for me. An apartment, condo or housing complex that has lots of green areas or a house on a nice tree lined street, a place where I can take the dog out for a calm 30 minute walk at 10:00pm and not have to worry about getting mugged or shot.

The $1100- $1500 I just kind of threw out there because that’s what I’ve heard. Is that reasonable or should I plan to pay more than that? I would like at least a 2 bedroom.
What’s the cost of living like?

Thanks again

-SH-

Avoid all areas of Oakland. Sure there are some nice pockets but because it's Oakland you'll be paying up the wazoo for insurance. Alameda is good, the rent may be a little higher there though. Do you have kids? If not, then San Leandro is good as long as you stay out of the area known as Ashland. It's the unincorporated part of San Leandro and you wouldn't be able to take your dog out at 10 p.m. Castro Valley has better schools if you have kids. San Lorenzo is like San Leandro in the "Village" but the area known as Cherryland is just an extension of Ashland. All three cities, San Leandro/San Lorenzo/Castro Valley have access to 580 (MacArthur Freeway for us locals ) and 13 (Warren Freeway) which will take you right into Berkeley and the traffic isn't as bad as the 880 (Nimitz Freeway).

Frisco? nah, I don't find it quaint and charming to walk over and among human misery on the way to the Opera, theater or restaurants.

 

[Fleagirl]

Walk Oakland, Then Decide

I've been lurking on this post, but have to pop my head up now that the Oakland bashing is getting a little bit stronger.

I've lived all over the Bay, from San Francisco to the far-reaching countryfied burbs. For the past four years I've worked in downtown Oakland, and it's part of my job to know and understand the East Bay communities. And my appreciation of Oakland has grown immeasurably!

First off, to the gentleman moving to the Bay Area: congratulations. This is a great region to experience as a resident. I agree with the folks who've recommended SF's up-and-coming areas, Alameda, and Berkeley. Certainly there are lovely areas of Berkeley, though rents get tight as there's a lot of competition from other students.

On to Oakland. It's a huge city that spans a large geographic area. The crime--and negative media--is centered largely in West Oakland--that section between Downtown and the Bay. Honestly, I don't think most Loungers are going to visit West Oakland and say, "Gee! Wouldn't it be grand to live in Dogtown!!"

So let's talk about the other areas of Oakland.

Downtown/Jack London Square: While not quaint, the rent is easy. Past Mayor Jerry Brown began an initiative about eight years ago to build 10k housing units in ten years. The result? A lot of fine market-rate apartments and condos are available right now. Schools are still an issue, but access to public transit is fantastic. There's Ratto's Deli, Swan's Marketplace, and Old Oakland for shopping. The Fox Theater renovation is almost complete. The Oakland Ice Skating Rink is open daily for public skates. Gorgeous churches, good museums, and a world-class cathedral (currently being built) are all there. Let's not forgetHeinold's First and Last Chance Saloon!

The Temescal: A thriving, diverse neighborhood. Known for its stretch of fantastic restaurants (Dona Tomas, Temescal Cafe, and a slew of great Korean Restaurants). The pride of this neighborhood's residents is palpable as you shop. They love it here!

Rockridge: Described by some as the greatest neighborhood in the world. Others refuse to talk it up for fear of ruining their little slice of heaven. Many people assume this chic area is a part of Berkeley. Totally diverse, very neighbor-friendly. If you're looking for "community" this is the place to move. People slow down here and talk to each other. Drivers stop for pedestrians in the street. Strangers smile at each other. It costs more, because it's worth it. Did I mention the houses are usually beautiful and early century?

Piedmont/Montclair: Ah, Piedmont. When I first got this job I was asked by an older, hip architect if I would by one of the new, funky lofts in Downtown Oakland so I could swap it with her Piedmont house. That way, she'd get the loft-living she was craving and I would get the absolutely fantastic Piedmont schools for my little boy. Piedmont and Montclair are beautiful places to live. Nice work if you can get it.

The Oakland Hills: If you're looking for some seclusion, wooded areas, breath-taking views, or all of the above, look on Craigslist for rentals in the Oakland Hills. This heavily wooded area stretches along the East ridge that over looks the Bay. Often homes are above the fog layer and experience a micro-climate all their own. You'll need cars to get down to transit and town, but many, many people love life up in the hills. Chabot Space and Science Center is one of the many attractions up there, as is an archery range and a large number of regional parks--great for hiking!

Of course, one of the reasons the Bay Area is so diverse is that we all have different preferences for how we live. Some couldn't live away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Others want the camraderie of talking over the fence with their neighbor. Some don't care where they live, as long as there's room for their boat. Me: I'm happy with a place where my boys can run and climb trees and yell their fool heads off--and I commute to work and pay for the privilege of having a huge yard and grassy, pretty neighborhood.

Other places near Berkeley you might want to check out: Albany (there are a couple of blocks on San Pablo that are frozen in time--any one ever go to the Hotsie Totsie? I'm dying to know what it's like!); Kensington; Orinda (though traffic through the tunnel can be a real drag).

Most important--get out, explore, ENJOY!!!!

Cheers,
Fleagirl