Help choosing an aero, please.

[Stringmaster]

So I've decided to go for a 30s HB pattern, but have a bit of a problem with sizing.

The Sunburst I tried on (1st and 3rd photos above) felt a bit tight around the chest and I didn't feel like I could layer under it. That was actually a size 40", not a 38 as previously stated. 40 is also my suit jacket size and the one that Holly of Aero recommended initially.
However, in the photo from the back the fit looks good and there is already quite a bit of creasing at the shoulders.

So do I got up to a 42 in the chest (I can keep it a 40 around the waist), or will this just look too big around the shoulders/back? Is the perceived tightness around the chest maybe just because the hide is so stiff? I'll be going with an action back, in case that makes a difference.
I'm training a fair bit now so I do expect to fill out a bit more...

Also, I'll be adding 1" to the length.

Cheers

F

I just completed the fit process with Carrie at Thurston Bros. I'm of similar proportions but less "muscular" at 5'10" 160 lbs, 31"-32" waist. I typically wear a 40reg jacket. Carrie sent me a 30's Half Belt, size 40. While it "kinda" fit, it felt a bit snug in the shoulders/chest if I moved my arms forward, and I don't like the restrictive feeling. At the same time while snug in the shoulders the upper arm/sleeve area was too baggy--i.e. too much material. She recommended that I needed to move into the Premier fit, indicating that while it's a trimmer cut, the placement of the arm holes will give more range of motion at similar dimensions--and the bulky arm issue should go away--and she moved me up to a 42 in the Premier fit. Of course I won't know for sure until I get my jacket, but did you try a Premier or discuss that option?

 

[Edgar Laurel]

I went to Kentaurus in Cologne yesterday, thanks to @Harris HTM's advice.

It was a fruitful trip as I learned a few things about what I want, with the help of my gf.
We decided that a yokeless back and longer fit suit me better, I think due to a combination of more 'modern' fitting jeans and a long back/short legs.
Either way the best fitting short jackets I could find were still far too short and we both just felt the longer jackets were more me.
Also, I think I'll have to give Aero my arm length as anything that fit around the chest was too long in the arm, especially the Highwayman I tried in a 40.

I also decided once and for all that I definitely want mid weight leather. I know the CXL FQHH was new and would soften, but on a slim jacket it just felt so restricting. The battered brown HH on the Shackleton waistcoat they had there was my favourite, but I don't think you can order it anymore

I didn't get as many pics as I should and we didn't write down the sizes. The Sunburst pictured is in either a 38 or 40 and the route 66 was a 42 I believe (maybe 44). Even the slimmest, best fitting jackets I tried still stuck out a bit at the belly and lower back, but not too badly.
The dustbowl deserves an honourable mention. The quality and detail of the back doesn't come through on the catalogue pics. It works like an action back too.

So I think a Plainsman fits the bill very nicely then. I think I just need to give Holly my arm length, wait for my leather samples and all will be fine. I think the extra length might also work a bit better with my chest-waist drop, plus the Plainsman's slimmer anyway. I'm considering asking for a bi-swing back, like that you can see in the mirror of the Route 66 pic. What do you think? I want to be able to ride my bike comfortably.

Let me know your thoughts. What mid-weight leather (asides from goat) do you think is the most indestructible. I'm considering Vicenza too.

Thanks for reading

Furrowson

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That Route 66 is absolutely perfect IMO.
Great fit no doubt about that.
I can understand your thoughts about heavier leater, I'm a fan of FQ HH and I'm really easy with it but if you 're not comfortable at all with it of course you should o with a middle weight option

 

[Furrowson]

@Stringmaster Thanks for that. Hope it works out for you. Please do post photos when you get it! I promise to do the same.

@Edgar Laurel I think that angle is very flattering, but I'm glad you like the look. From the front it was obviously just too bulky and the sleeves too long, but the length is good. Nice jacket. Maybe I'll get one some day

It seems that people think the jackets fit well even though I didn't, so I can't go too far wrong I suppose!

I've spoken with Holly and I'm going to go with the 40" and taper to a 38" and 25" at the back. That's only 1/2" more length than pictured, but I think it'll work based on jackets I have at home and the fact that those jeans do sit rather low on me. I think I'll be able to get a thin layer over a shirt with it. The jumper I had with me was quite thick. Either way I'm pretty confident it's going to look and feel great
This is all what Holly has advised for me and she knows what she's doing.

Very seriously considering the tumbled brown FQHH. Holly advised against the steer for this fit due to the added weight/thickness.

I'm going for a 30s HB pattern with a bi-swing back and a non-peaked (not sure if that's the right term) yoke, like the one on the wayfarer. The back would basically be like the "Surrogates" Plainsman that I think I linked to earlier in this thread. It's on the Thurston Affiliates thread in any case.
Not sure about the front, but I like the Dustbowl. I think I could ask for a Dustbowl with a bi-swing back and the upper front seam removed and a flat pocket there instead (think Speedway-esque). Then I'd get a good bit of that sweet sweet triple stitching and a less busy look on a highly functional jacket. Thoughts?

Not sure whether I'd take or leave the moleskin lining. Might be better to take it if I can't layer much underneath. Then again the added thickness might just limit the layering... Hey ho. Small details that aren't worth stressing over.

Cheers

F

 

[Stringmaster]

@Stringmaster Thanks for that. Hope it works out for you. Please do post photos when you get it! I promise to do the same.

@Edgar Laurel I think that angle is very flattering, but I'm glad you like the look. From the front it was obviously just too bulky and the sleeves too long, but the length is good. Nice jacket. Maybe I'll get one some day

It seems that people think the jackets fit well even though I didn't, so I can't go too far wrong I suppose!

I've spoken with Holly and I'm going to go with the 40" and taper to a 38" and 25" at the back. That's only 1/2" more length than pictured, but I think it'll work based on jackets I have at home and the fact that those jeans do sit rather low on me. I think I'll be able to get a thin layer over a shirt with it. The jumper I had with me was quite thick. Either way I'm pretty confident it's going to look and feel great
This is all what Holly has advised for me and she knows what she's doing.

Very seriously considering the tumbled brown FQHH. Holly advised against the steer for this fit due to the added weight/thickness.

I'm going for a 30s HB pattern with a bi-swing back and a non-peaked (not sure if that's the right term) yoke, like the one on the wayfarer. The back would basically be like the "Surrogates" Plainsman that I think I linked to earlier in this thread. It's on the Thurston Affiliates thread in any case.
Not sure about the front, but I like the Dustbowl. I think I could ask for a Dustbowl with a bi-swing back and the upper front seam removed and a flat pocket there instead (think Speedway-esque). Then I'd get a good bit of that sweet sweet triple stitching and a less busy look on a highly functional jacket. Thoughts?

Not sure whether I'd take or leave the moleskin lining. Might be better to take it if I can't layer much underneath. Then again the added thickness might just limit the layering... Hey ho. Small details that aren't worth stressing over.

Cheers

F

Thanks Furrowson--will do, and best of luck with your new jacket--looking forward to seeing it!

 

[Furrowson]

Thanks Stringmaster.

Sorry, I just saw the question at the end of your 1st post.
I didn't consider the premier fit much to be honest and we didn't discuss it. I don't have the option of trying one on either.
It's a very nice jacket and it sounds like you've made a wise choice (drool), but the 30s HB was much more what I had in mind when I started all this and having tried one on I stand a good chance at getting the fit right.

 

[Edgar Laurel]

I would definitely leave out the moleskin lining for something lighter if you want to do some extra layering (and keeping in mind that the jacket has a lean cut).

 

[Edgar Laurel]

I would definitely leave out the moleskin lining for something lighter if you want to do some extra layering (and keeping in mind that the jacket has a lean cut).

 

[Insomnia]

If you feel the size 40 jacket is to big try the Premier 1930 HB pattern. It is like a size between.
Here are some picture of my 1930 HBs. 1 Seal Vicenza, 1 Cordovan FQHH and the black is a Premier 1930 HB FQHH. All in size 40.
I only wear a t-shirt but i am able to layer a sweater.

 

[Insomnia]

I love the Dustbowl back, so my next jacket will be a Premier 1930 HB in tumbled brown FQHH with 2 angled chest pockets (like the black Premier 1930 HB) and a Dustbowl back (No pleats at Half Belt for a tighter fit). If you like a bi-swing back maybe take a look at the back of the Half Belt Deluxe.

But beware if you mix the styles to much it maybe will end in some sort of Frankenjacket. To see some good combinations take a look at the the Insurrection / Thurston Bros. - Official Affiliate Thread.

 

[JacketAddict]

This is a Route 66 in brown h/h. Every time I wear it I get compliments. I like short jackets with the "athletic look".

 

[Edward]

I love the Dustbowl back, so my next jacket will be a Premier 1930 HB in tumbled brown FQHH with 2 angled chest pockets (like the black Premier 1930 HB) and a Dustbowl back (No pleats at Half Belt for a tighter fit). If you like a bi-swing back maybe take a look at the back of the Half Belt Deluxe.

But beware if you mix the styles to much it maybe will end in some sort of Frankenjacket. To see some good combinations take a look at the the Insurrection / Thurston Bros. - Official Affiliate Thread.

Indeed; also worth talking to Aero. Prior to 2012, there was a long period of "anything goes", but Aero are more protective of the brand these days insofar as they won't let anything get made or sent out if it's not something they would be happy with being out there with their name on it. They have a long experience of what works and what doesn't.... and which models share which common features (e.g. the Bootlegger is a 50s Halfbelt with a different front on it).

 

[Furrowson]

Sorry gents, I seem to have stopped receiving notifications at some point on this thread, didn't mean to ignore anyone.

@Edgar Laurel, @Insomnia, @JacketAddict, thanks for your input.

As predicted, I've ended up going for something different.
Just pulled the trigger on a Maxwell, Oil Pull, 40" tapering to 38", 25/25.25" at the back (doesn't make much difference I think).
The lining will either be cotton cheviot tartan or budget wool tartan.

I've asked for darker, glossier skins in the hope of getting something similar to the oil pull jackets of @Gancho and @UWEZ. If either of you have any recent photos, please do share!

Decided against an action back without being able to figure out with Aero in person.
Seems to me, if it's not perfect it sticks out a little bit which would drive me mad. Especially with the jacket tapering down a size I don't want to risk it. I don't think I'd need it while driving and 99% of my cycling is <20 mins, so I don't really care about that. If it turns out I do need it while driving... oh well; I'll just have to get a driving jacket eh?

Cheers folks,

I'll be sure to post pics when all the glaciers have melted, trees are gone, fish swim backwards and my jacket finally arrives.

 

[kronos77]

Oil pull is a great choice. I am likely to go with it for my next jacket too.

 

[Furrowson]

Oil pull is a great choice. I am likely to go with it for my next jacket too.

Good to hear! Have you experience with it? I only decided to go with it today lol.

 

[kronos77]

Good to hear! Have you experience with it? I only decided to go with it today lol.

I have a sample, that's all. I beat it up, twisted it,. soaked it and all that. I liked what I saw. It looks great both brand new and broken in. The slightly oily and matte look really makes it attractive. Besides, the break in period will be nearly non existent.

CXL doesn't look great when new, imo. It takes a little breaking in before it starts to show what it is all about.

 

[Furrowson]

That's pretty much what I'd gathered about it, but I'm glad to hear it from you. My samples never arrived, which is apparently a big problem for Aero at the moment (samples going missing in the post, that is).

You're right about CXL and I think most would agree. For me it was a toss up between tumbled CXL and oil pull. I remembered trying on the CXL jackets and the immediately thinking, 'why would you wear this if not for protection?'. I'm sure it's nice once broken in but I want a 660 pound jacket to be really effing comfy and to be happy with the look from the start. Also I like the kind of understatedness of oil pull.

 

[Harris HTM]

Now just stand and wait. It's only 12 weeks right? It is worth the wait, believe me.

 

[kronos77]

That's pretty much what I'd gathered about it, but I'm glad to hear it from you. My samples never arrived, which is apparently a big problem for Aero at the moment (samples going missing in the post, that is).

You're right about CXL and I think most would agree. For me it was a toss up between tumbled CXL and oil pull. I remembered trying on the CXL jackets and the immediately thinking, 'why would you wear this if not for protection?'. I'm sure it's nice once broken in but I want a 660 pound jacket to be really effing comfy and to be happy with the look from the start. Also I like the kind of understatedness of oil pull.

My samples took forever. Is it Royal Mail? USPS? Customs? They did get here eventually. Anyone waiting, just be patient.

 

[Furrowson]

I'm not sure what the hold up is or what postal service the samples were sent with. Hopefully they will turn up eventually, but I've had other packages from the UK not turn up at all before. Not too fussed to be honest since I reckon I'd make the same choice.

Cheers Harris, I'm all set to play the waiting game.

 

[Furrowson]

Hi Everyone,

I ended up going back to Kentaurus in Cologne (Köln) as I was too unsure about everything and figured it's worth spending the extra money to ensure I get the right jacket. I ended up choosing the 50's half belt in brown CXL FQHH. The jacket arrived at Kentaurus miraculously quickly (<3 weeks) and I just picked it up today.

This is a standard 38" 50s HB with ~1" extra at the back, which measures 65 cm/25.6". No storm cuffs, 1 inside pocket (LHS), buchanan hunting modern tartan lining (standard Aero stock). The sleeves are 64 cm/25.2". Can't remember if that's standard or not. For reference, I'm 5' 11" and I always wear a 38"-40" suit jacket.

Love it. Love the hide. Couldn't be happier!

Here it is!

Huge thanks to Holly, the machinist Toni Hogarth (hope I've remembered that correctly), everyone else at Aero and Stefan at Kentaurus. I would strongly recommend visiting Kentaurus if you are in the market for an Aero (especially if it's your first) and it's a great shop otherwise, too. Loads of stuff that I think people here would like and it's almost more like a gallery than a shop.

Thanks to everyone here who helped out with my endless questions. This is a really great community.

Big Love

Furrowson