Help build my Highwayman, please!

[sshack]

Hi, everyone. After months of lurking, I think I've gathered enough info to start building my Highwayman order. Below is the list of specs I've put together. Would appreciate any and all advice/criticism!

To help give more perspective, I'm located in Southern California-- so we have a mild, Mediterranean climate. Harsh winters are not a problem, but I intend to do some traveling with this jacket so I'd like "all-around" weather protection.

On to the specs!

Aero Highwayman in heavy, black, FQHH. I've got a 45-46" chest and 36" waist... so some tapering may be needed. My "off the rack" clothes always tend to fit in the shoulders, but have too much room in the waist.

One piece back. I think it looks a little more modern and for lack of a better word, "cool." I don't ride, so bi-swing isn't necessary.

No storm cuffs.

Inner lining-- Stewart Black Modern tartan. I love this tartan pattern and may get it in the medium weight. http://www.lochcarron.com/tartan/stewart_black_modern.html

Sleeve lining-- I'm thinking the wine satin over the olive gaberdine. I hate it when my sweaters/shirts ride up when I put on jackets, so I think the satin is a good solution. I like the idea of gaberdine underneath the satin to provide any protection from rain-- isn't gaberdine supposed to be water resistant?

Exterior pocket. The normal zippered pocket (silver hardware) over the left breast. I will probably ask to have the pocket shortened... or should I keep it the long length? All pockets will be lined in moleskin.

Interior pockets. This is where I need some advice. Basically, I need pockets to hold my iPhone, wallet, maps. I like having an inner horizontal pocket in the lining (probably on the right side, so it doesn't rub against the exterior left breast pocket lining). But will horizontal pockets sag the tartan lining? I think I'm worrying too much! I also want one (possibly two?) G1 vertical pocket. Not sure which side to put it on, as it may rub up against either the left exterior breast pocket or the right horizontal lining pocket. Whew... enough about pockets!

Leather strip on bottom of the jacket lining.


Jeez, my head is spinning after that. I hope Aero in Scotland doesn't get too confused. As I said, any advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated!

--Sshack

 

[Peacoat]

I have found the vertical G-1 pockets to be more utilitarian than the horizontal pockets. Some of the posters here have gotten them on both sides rather than just on the left, which is traditional. When I do it again, that is the way I will go. I much prefer the G-1 pocket.

 

[OneEyeMan]

I'm with Peacoat on the G1 vertical pockets inside.
One thing I learned with my first Highwayman; if you only get 1 G1 inner pocket, you might want to consider putting it on the opposite of the outer zipped chest pocket (or vice versa). Reason being, having both pockets on the same side aligns several extra layers of leather, making it very bumpy and a bit uncomfortable.
Also, all the pockets came from Aero way too deep. So deep in fact that I couldn't reach things that fell to the bottom. I sewed up about 2" of the outer chest pocket so that my cell phone fits exactly in it making it very easy to retrieve. Moleskin is nice in the pockets, but you might want to consider courderoy for the hand warmer pockets. It's thick and long wearing and just feels great against the hands. I also had courderoy instead of leather attached at the bottom hem of the lining. Leather is nice and long wearing, but the brown courderoy looks really rich against the lining. Plus, since it's a little thicker than the leather, it helps stop the wind from coming in, and just feels warmer.
If I had it to do again, I'd do the same thing with the sleeves you're doing for the same exact reason. And I'd also do without the inner slleeve cuffs. What a hassle if you wear a decent sized watch!
Soliciting advice on jacket builds is a double edged sword; on one hand, you don't want to make a mistake so you want to find out what works and what doesn't. On the other hand, you'll get tons of new exciting suggestions complicating your decision.
But that's part of the fun of the whole process.
Good luck with the order and let us know exactly what you end up going with.
Lenny

 

[jb771213]

Hello,

I ordered my ighwayman without stormcuffs and I like it that way very much.

My jacket has to vertical inside pockets with button closure; zipper is also available, but because of the stiffness of the leather and the deepness of the pockets they don't need any closure. If you have zippers or buttons you have to be a little careful with smartphones or so not to scratch the display

You are on the right way and you will love your jacket, I'm sure.

 

[deluxestyling]

Purposeful vertical inside pockets.

I saw this video the other day and had to smile when it got to the part about how useful the deep inside pockets are. [video=youtube;zx0cFdVNErc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zx0cFdVNErc&feature=related[/video]
Some folks have a mobile phone some a 45cal hand gun!

 

[Dav]

I've got vertical pockets on my Cheyenne

and horizontal ones on my Highwayman

I find the vertical ones easier to access with your hand but they are a lot deeper so things (phone) tend to disappear to the bottom, whereas the horizontal ones are ideal for the phone but you have to undo the zip to gain access. I suppose it just depends what you intend putting in them really.

 

[JakeHolman]

The vertical pockets are slightly easier to access. You could always specify a maximum depth to the pocket - didn't Griff do this?

I'm wondering if satin over gabardine may be too warm for your climate. Effectively you'll be wearing three layers over whatever you have underneath. The horsehide is quite rainproof as it is. However, this advise comes from someone whose never been to California so i'm not best qualified really

 

[_RAGNAR_]

Yes, for a few US makers the interior vertical left breast pocket is in fact called the "gun pocket" and is used as such quite often. Though I know a few motorcyclists who have their jackets made with it on the other side so they can access a handgun while working the throttle (possible overkill? )

 

[sshack]

Thanks for all the advice, fellas! It's been really helpful.

 

[_RAGNAR_]

yes I have to say thanks also. I would have ordered with the windcuffs and not been happy as I wear a lot of sweaters and they would just get bunched up in the sleeve.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

I specified something like maximum 10" pocket depth and they are perfect.
I dont remember the measurement tho, I just measured my phone or ipod and added 2" I think.
If you have 1 outer pocket, 1 inside pocket and 1 handwarmer pocket, thats 3 pocket linings on top on oneanother.
Think about the pockets a bit before ordering.

The G1 feels great and looks great from the inside, but it shows through on the outside
as a big rectangle on my jacket, and I have 2 of them one on either side.
If the horizontal pocket doesnt show as much I would consider it for at least one of the pockets.
Maybe someone can chip in.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

You can see the rectangle some in tis picture, and you can also see the snap button on both if you look close.

I dont want to put you off, but 3 inside pockets on one side sounds like you might regret it.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Specified the areas

 

[Dav]

I agree Griff about the G1 pockets showing through they are starting to show through even on the heavy steerhide Cheyenne, whereas not at all on the Highwayman

Perhaps them showing through is the reason inside pockets aren't standard?

 

[sshack]

Griif & Dav, thanks for the input. Grif, I don't think those squares are too noticeable, but your point is well taken. I've never had G1 pockets before and have always been fine with horizontal ones. To be honest, I thought I might want G1's because they looked cool. I doubt I'd use them that often. I may just stick to one horizontal pocket in the lining and one exterior horizontal pocket on the opposite side (with hand warmer pockets, of course!).

 

[Edward]

Both my Aero Bootlegger and Thirties Halfbelt jackets have two inside G1 pockets. Never really thought of them as having a specific name.... I think Aero refer to them as "G1 style". I don't hear the term "gun pockets" over here, but I suppose that is what the developed as? Would make more sense for that to crop up as a US term, given the differing cultures in terms of guns - obviously, very few folks in the UK will be buying a jacket thinking of carrying a gun, whereas in the US as it is simply a more common thing it is more of an issue. I know I find the G1 styl pocket a much more accessible thing when it comes to getting at my phone or a pen when I need to, without zipping the jacket down further. My jackets, afaik, have the standard pocket depth, with which I have never had a problem. Actually, I really like good, deep pockets.

I do agree with above comments that a G1 and a horizontal pocket in the same size would be overkill (especially if you have at least one useable outer breast pocket).

 

[xt40]

you should check out ricks custom highwayman jacket in the member review section of the filmjacket forum. you will probably need to register to do so.
from memory, its a brown custom hh with bi-swing back which imo is nicer than the plain back. A very clever idea he had was to get the front cut a little longer than the rear as highway(mans?) (men?) tend to be short in the front.

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

Mine is half an inch longer in the front and im happy i did that.

 

[sshack]

Highwaymans are longer in the back? I'm not sure if this is a good or bad thing... Do lots of people lengthen the front?

 

[GriffDeLaGriff]

They aren´t longer in the back, they are equal length.
But since you have pecs and belly in the front it needs more length to come to the same place in the end.

This differs for alot of people tho and it has to do with your physique and how clothes hang on you. If you have a jacket at home that is equal length and it seems equal when you wear it then you dont need to add length to the front.

All my equal length jackets becomes alot shorter in the front for some reason. This is why I specified a smooth taper to half an inch more in the front.