HELP! 40s style cardigans

[~landgirl~]

Hey ladies

I have discovered a lady who knits from vintage patterns:

www.historicknit.co.uk

I contacted her today and will be calling her tomorrow to discuss cardigan patterns, she has asked me to think about what yarn I would like, 100% wool, etc.

Can anyone give me some pointers so I know what I am talking about when I call her! I know this message is a bit vague but I am someone who knows "wool" and wool alone! Just what different types are there and what would be appropriate for the era - although I am sure she will have some idea, I would like to be prepared!

Thanks. xxx

 

[Honey Doll]

How fun!

I knit by am by no means and expert. I looked at her page and I would say that she would probably be quite adept at handling your questions. She likely wants to know if you want 100% wool for authenticity, or if you are looking to do a blend for washability. Any pattern she would use would come with its own suggestions for appropriate yarn in terms of weight and maybe color suggestions. It would seem to me that she is asking to gauge your desires. So perhaps engage her in a conversation about what you need..ie, period looking, but something I can machine wash...or 100% period authentic as the case may be.

Honey Doll

 

[Sunny]

Interesting! I've read a lot of discussions by really old-fashioned knitters (c. 1860s) and there is indeed a lot of variety in yarns available. The impression I've gotten is that wool blends are very common nowadays - but not just nylon/wool blends. There are a lot of silk/wool blends. I know nothing about 1940s knits; do any of you ladies have sweaters or cardigans that are not pure wool?

I just wanted to throw this out there, because it seems that silk/wool blends are very common. There's no question that 100% wool is authentic, but I'd hate for you to dismiss something like silk/wool that's (perhaps) just as accurate and possibly cost less.

 

[AllaboutEve]

Hi Landgirl!
I would stick with 100% wool, there really is no substitute for wear, warmth and handle. I am a truly dedicated knitter, and a knitter of vintage and wool would always be my first choice. You will get a garment that it much better at holding it's shape than a cotton or synthetic blend.

I was talking to Jane Waller today at the London Stitching show and she has just released her new book "Knitting patterns from the 1940's". She has spent the last 10 years putting it together and had several examples there to see.

We were chatting about substitute yarns for vintage patterns and she produced her Jamieson and Smith shetland wool shade card, at which point I went mad with glee as this is exactly the wool that I use too.

You can order their shade card online or on the phone for around £5.00. They are almost exclusive in the UK for their extensive range of 2ply yarn and have dozens of gorgeous colours to choose from (this knits up as a 4ply) and is an unrivalled choice for knitting vintage with.
Here is the link, http://www.shetland-wool-brokers.zetnet.co.uk/2plyjump.htm

There is the added benefit of supporting British Farmers too!

I would advise that you order the shade card to pick out a colour you like and then let the knitting lady order the amount she needs. Then you know exactly what you are getting.

Alternatively you could go for a lightweight 4ply of a different brand. It all depends on what you want knitted.
The Jamieson wool is excellent for cardigans, lacy patterned tops, shetland or patterned work and today I saw a two piece underwear set from a 40's pattern knitted in it and it was wonderful.

I would suggest avoiding double knit as most of the wool used during the war was 2 or 3 ply and was a lot thinner than our modern double knit. The difference that this will make to a garment is that it could be stiff and badly fitting. Once again it depends on what you want knitted!

Where will you choose your pattern from?

 

[~landgirl~]

Oh thanks everyone!

Well... I have some disapointing news. I just heard back again about her price range and it is a little too out of mine. I didn't realise it would be so costly, she predicts between £90 to £140 ($180 - $280).

As I have no idea about this kind of thing, what do you all think about that price range? Does it reflect cost of wool and time etc, could it be cheaper, is it money well spent?

And AllaboutEve - it would have been a pattern from her own collection, aparently she had LOADS!

 

[Sunny]

That's too bad! Keep in mind, that this is a very time-intensive project, and by definitely skilled labor. Compensating her simply for wages would be expensive enough. I haven't been to the site yet, but if this is her business, she's got plenty of indirect cost to add in. That's not even considering supplies. [huh] Bummer, though!

 

[~landgirl~]

Yeah I can understand that.

I wish I had an older relative who would knit me something! If anyone out there does this for personal wear (doesn't own a business!) please don't be shy in contacting me with a price!

 

[ShooShooBaby]

Oh thanks everyone!

Well... I have some disapointing news. I just heard back again about her price range and it is a little too out of mine. I didn't realise it would be so costly, she predicts between £90 to £140 ($180 - $280).

As I have no idea about this kind of thing, what do you all think about that price range? Does it reflect cost of wool and time etc, could it be cheaper, is it money well spent?

And AllaboutEve - it would have been a pattern from her own collection, aparently she had LOADS!

i'm currently knitting a vintage sweater for myself, and it's taking SOOOO long. the price to do one for someone else would be too high to ever do it! haha! i think the price she's charging you is a great deal for the amount of work it is. plus there's the price of the yarn. for my short-sleeve sweater, the yarn (debbie bliss baby cashmerino) cost me $60 american. however, i don't think it's unreasonable to not be able to afford a custom-knit sweater - that's a lot of money!

 

[~landgirl~]

Yeah I guess if you think about it, it's more involved then say dressmaking as you are more or less making the *fabric* before putting the actual pieces together!

 

[AllaboutEve]

I think that that's a fair price given the amount of time and providing she was planning on using a quality yarn there really isn't that big a profit margin there either. Of course it's difficult to say without seeing the pattern etc but it sounds reasonabl to me.

The time consuming parts of hand knitting are not just the actual knitting part but the "blocking out" where you pin out and stretch the garment to shape and damp it down with water, aswell as the grafting on of sleeves, neck bands, adding buttons etc.

It does take a long time, I have spent weeks making things before. I recently made a knitted Heron to order for a friend's neice and had I charged him for it I worked out that it probably would have been around £70!!! (I am a slow knitter by most people's standards) So I just told him to give a donation to a bird charity instead!

My advice is to have go yourself! This may be a very daunting prospect but you will be surprised how quickly you will learn. There are knitting groups all over the UK now, more so than ever since the release of "Stitch and B*tch".

You could start with something simple like a knitted purse, or a scarf and move on from there. You would be amazed at how quickly you will be tackling bigger things.

The bonus of this is that you will get something that fits you. Did the woman you contacted ask you for your fitting measurements or did she just ask you your chest size?
The reason I ask is that most patterns need some slight alteration to fit, things like the armhole to waistband measurement may need to be lenghtened or shortened. This is where knitting your own garments comes into it's own and once you find a pattern that works for you, you can knit several in different colours.

I would offer to help out but I am currently busy designing a set of embroideries that I am hoping to get onto the market so I don't have any time free.

Check out this website for your local knit groups, there is no such thing as someone that cannot knit!! Go on, give it a go!
http://www.stitchnbitch.co.uk/

Let me know how you get on, there are lots of knitting ladies here who are ready with their on line advice to help you on your way!

 

[Miss Sis]

That actually seems quite cheap to me for all the work that will go into it. Custom knitting anything is extremely time consuming and if you did knit yourself then you'd certainly appreciate the time put in, especially in the finer yarns such as 2 or 3 ply.

I am a pretty slow knitter as I get tired of it and cast it aside for loooooong periods of time. I am knitting a 3 ply jumper for my boyfriend from vintage wool and problem is, I ran out of yarn! I thought that starting it last summer I would get it finished by Christmas. I was wrong, and THEN I ran out of wool. Only being able to do an hour or two each evening means it just takes ages.

It might end up as a sleeveless vest instead now, which is a shame after it took so long to knit the first sleeve. (it is all cabled and fancy too )

 

[~landgirl~]

Thanks everyone.

I didn't mean to sound like I was undervaluing the time and cost involved (if I did come across that way at all?) I just really don't have a clue about these things! Of course, you get what you pay for but I think my eyes are bigger than my purse will allow. lol After all, it's just a cardigan - and for ever day wear at that! I am not sure I could justify spending that much to myself.. I would sooner have another repro dress made for the same value.

I looked in to stitch and bitch, even got myself some needles to practise but I just couldn't get the knack of it. I should really join a group and learn!

 

[AllaboutEve]

Thanks everyone.

I didn't mean to sound like I was undervaluing the time and cost involved (if I did come across that way at all?) I just really don't have a clue about these things! Of course, you get what you pay for but I think my eyes are bigger than my purse will allow. lol After all, it's just a cardigan - and for ever day wear at that! I am not sure I could justify spending that much to myself.. I would sooner have another repro dress made for the same value.

I looked in to stitch and bitch, even got myself some needles to practise but I just couldn't get the knack of it. I should really join a group and learn!

Don't worry you didn't come across that way at all ! It's the same with anything that you're not familiar with you can only learn by finding out! I'm doing that myself everyday!!!

Definitely join a group and go and have some fun, it's amazing how having someone there who can just show you is so much easier and takes all the puzzlement out of those pictures in the books you buy. And you get to have a good natter with some ladies you never know you may even stumble across another vintage addict!

In the meantime why don't you take a leaf out of LadyDay's book and sniff out some gorgeous vintage buttons, there are lots and lots of vintage inspired cardigans on the market still and you could dress one or two up with your own trimmings. Just a thought?

If you need any help or inspiration with your knitting then do just drop me a line.

 

[ShooShooBaby]

i didn't think that either.

don't worry if it takes you a while to get the hang of knitting, by the way. i was taught THREE times before it finally stuck!

 

[~landgirl~]

You girls are great!

Allabouteve - I have struggled to find a vintage inspired cardigan - I have looked all over the place, topshop online had some wool ones in around christmas with the buttons all the way to the top, but they went in about a week. I have tried Marks and Sparks, Hennies, Dotty Ps - nothing! If you know any places then please do share!

 

[ShooShooBaby]

landgirl,

i don't know what the thrifting situation is like in the UK, but i've gotten ALL of my cardigans from thrift stores. i never seem to find ones i like in new stores. some are vintage and some are newer. i have a couple that are waiting in line to receive some vintage buttons, but most look good enough for me, and they all cost under $5!

 

[Elaina]

I learned to knit from Boye's "Teach yourself Knitting" 10 years or so ago. I think in the first year I made a sweater for my son and I (they sort of matched. Same cashmere yarn, mine was purple, his was green).

The next sweater took me SEVEN YEARS, just because it's so complicated. I now have it framed and hanging on a wall.

 

[Miss Dottie]

I was talking to Jane Waller today at the London Stitching show and she has just released her new book "Knitting patterns from the 1940's". She has spent the last 10 years putting it together and had several examples there to see.

I'm drooling over that book. I must buy it. Although I must say that I have dozens of vintage knitting patterns, but you just can never have enough.

I too love to knit. And I could never charge anyone for my work, because itw ould be too expensive. I once tallied just the number of hours it took me to knit a pair of sock and it would have made the sock cost $100--even at being paid minimum wage. Oof!

Oh, and here is a nifty article about knitting vintage from knitty.com, a great resource for knitters: http://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/FEATvintage.html