Heddels: Leather Jackets Beyond the Schott Perfecto

[Superfluous]

https://www.heddels.com/2019/02/leather-jackets-beyond-schott-perfecto/

Editor's Note: FYI this is literally copyright infringement. Please just link to content from other sites. Do not re-post entire articles.

 

[Edward]

Some interesting comments on there. It's clear how effective Schott's PR has been over the years from how widely accepted is their claim that they made Brando's Johnny Strabler jacket. (A little sleight of hand, gioven they later bought Durable who are generally accepted to have made the actual jacket.) The interpretation that Brando wore his 'oversize' is interesting. The cut back then was much less boxy than modern Schotts; thestrong V shape - bigger on the shoulders, tight on the waist. Brando's Durable is the norm, based on all period photos I've seen, not 'oversized' by the standards of the time, at least.

Also amused by the comment "Schott does a great version of this iconic flight jacket that will make you like a hot WWII fighter pilot and won’t make anyone grill you on what kind of bike you have." I've worn a P style jacket on and off for close to thirty years now, and never once been asked whether I ride because of it. Soon as I step out the door in any obviously flying jackets, you get "where's the spitfire?" I wonder is this a UK/US cultural difference?

Noe of which is to criticise; it's an interesting article and makes a solid point. I actually rather like the look of that Mr Freedom which appears to be a Grizzly with Pendleton blanket-type textile replacing the fur panels. I could see me wearing that.

 

[handymike]

To me it reads as a bit of a puff piece featuring the usual suspects he already knows. I wish the reporter would do more research and dig deeper.

 

[Edward]

To me it reads as a bit of a puff piece featuring the usual suspects he already knows. I wish the reporter would do more research and dig deeper.

I find that's the case with the vsast majority of clothing blogs. But then what would the internet be without everyone seeking to champion their subjective preferences as objective rules?

 

[handymike]

We are definitely in the age of "lazy reporting".

 

[Monitor]

It's Tom of Finland, not Holland.

Also, $1050 - or any amount over $120 - for a jacket made from split leather is insulting, and I'm saying that as a huge fan of Iron Heart.

 

[Skanstull]

It's Tom of Finland, not Holland.

Also, $1050 - or any amount over $120 - for a jacket made from split leather is insulting, and I'm saying that as a huge fan of Iron Heart.

How much of the retail cost of a leather jacket is the cost of the leather? For a brand like Iron Heart, I would have thought it was a fraction - regardless of whether it is full grain or a cheaper quality.

 

[Monitor]

How much of the retail cost of a leather jacket is the cost of the leather? For a brand like Iron Heart, I would have thought it was a fraction - regardless of whether it is full grain or a cheaper quality.

Depends but split leather is really cheap. You can get several sheets of that stuff from a single hide, if I'm not mistaken. Sanded full grain leather is another thing but split... Nope. Regardless, what you're paying for when buying IH is an extremely high quality workmanship and the brand name of course and that still doesn't justify the insane price tag they put on it.

Also I found this pretty interesting read a few days ago and might just as well share it now.

https://nstarleather.wordpress.com/...ierarchy-youve-probably-read-about-is-a-myth/

 

[TREEMAN]

Very informative......

 

[Seb Lucas]

To me it reads as a bit of a puff piece featuring the usual suspects he already knows. I wish the reporter would do more research and dig deeper.

Yep. Puff pieces by definition require no research and are basically extensions of marketing sludge. I despise the bland and insinuating copywriter's language and can't get past the first few sentences. If I read this all my brain would turn into porridge.

 

[navetsea]

Overtime nubuck will lose its matte velvety finish and turn back into smooth leather, suede will not i guess since it is rough side up.

 

[El Marro]

To me it reads as a bit of a puff piece featuring the usual suspects he already knows. I wish the reporter would do more research and dig deeper.

Yep.
It really falls off when he gets to the flight jacket section. I thought he was supposed to be taking us past Schott but two out of the three jackets are made by them and the third by someone I’ve never heard of. Eastman would have been an obvious choice here. Even Cockpit USA should be mentioned in this category before Schott and whoever the hell Falcon Garments are.

 

[ton312]

Yep.
It really falls off when he gets to the flight jacket section. I thought he was supposed to be taking us past Schott but two out of the three jackets are made by them and the third by someone I’ve never heard of. Eastman would have been an obvious choice here. Even Cockpit USA should be mentioned in this category before Schott and whoever the hell Falcon Garments are.

Falcon garments are the remains of TOJ I do believe. Garbage. The article itself is pretty useless. Nothing 15 minutes of google couldn’t show you. I quit when the featured D pocket is that Flat Head. A far cry from the most attractive D pocket imho.

 

[Edward]

I only heard of TOJ long after it happened, but reading up on it it sounded a lot like what Mark Moyes did, except more calculated and with a restaurant!

 

[red devil]

Depends but split leather is really cheap. You can get several sheets of that stuff from a single hide, if I'm not mistaken. Sanded full grain leather is another thing but split... Nope. Regardless, what you're paying for when buying IH is an extremely high quality workmanship and the brand name of course and that still doesn't justify the insane price tag they put on it.

Also I found this pretty interesting read a few days ago and might just as well share it now.

https://nstarleather.wordpress.com/...ierarchy-youve-probably-read-about-is-a-myth/

Thanks for sharing this link, I went on to read quite a few other articles in that blog as they are well written.

 

[navetsea]

I only heard of TOJ long after it happened, but reading up on it it sounded a lot like what Mark Moyes did, except more calculated and with a restaurant!

although, that should have been a perfect plan, cook the meat and turn the skin into jackets

 

[Edward]

although, that should have been a perfect plan, cook the meat and turn the skin into jackets

That should be Aero's next move: set up their own tannery in Gala, a restarant next door - "Cook it, Eat it, Wear it!"

 

[handymike]

The whole plan is a little too “Sweeney Todd” for me...

 

[navetsea]

yeah just like seafood restaurant, consumer come, they see some cute lambs and adorable calves, the children can pet them, and then pick one or two they like, then consumer sit on their table, pick from the menu book about jacket style and how the meat should be cooked, after a bellyful of meal they will get measured, the remaining of the meat is vacuum seal packed ready to bring home, the jacket would be ready to be delivered in few weeks together with a jar of its own fat to condition the jacket, if the jacket has buttons then the buttons are made from the animal bone too, and a preserved animal head as house decoration or as a winter hat. ooh the leather would be amazing because it is tanned by using the animal's brain and piss, and dyed by their blood or charred fur and bone, all very environmental friendly and sustainable.

 

[Edward]

Less wasted the better!

The whole plan is a little too “Sweeney Todd” for me...
View attachment 176087

Well.... perhaps if Sir's taste in hides runs to the... rather more exotic, shall we say...