Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[belfastboy]

The one edge binding I did on a machine, was done by manually advancing/ turning the machine with the wheel (wasnt even plugged in) Basically gave me a third hand to hold things in place, and gave me a really even stitching. Advancing by hand let me really control where the needle went in. Just had to put on some 3x reading glasses to see) Used mini binder clips to hold everything still... stitch 4 or 5 stitches, remove the next clip, and repeat. Took about 15 minutes to go around once I had everything in place and ready ( as opposed to about 35-40 minutes to do one in a double needle saddle stitch). I WILL say that doing by machine really did a good job of keeping the needles out of my finget-tips lol

You haven't lived until you have sewn your finger to a felt!!!!

 

[RickP]

You haven't lived until you have sewn your finger to a felt!!!!

My Cobra class 4 will sew 7/8" of veg tan leather without breathing hard... after unpacking and seeing the thick leather sample they shipped it with, Ive held a really, really healthy respect for that piece of machinery! I KNOW how deep a hand sewing needle with go into the finger... I DONT want to see how many fingers I can sew down all at once before I can get my foot off the pedal lol

 

[belfastboy]

My Cobra class 4 will sew 7/8" of veg tan leather without breathing hard... after unpacking and seeing the thick leather sample they shipped it with, Ive held a really, really healthy respect for that piece of machinery! I KNOW how deep a hand sewing needle with go into the finger... I DONT want to see how many fingers I can sew down all at once before I can get my foot off the pedal lol

My low point was sewing my finger to a hat.....while hand sewing!!! The stitch went through a callous on my finger so did not feel it. I did notice it when I set the hat down and it followed me out of the room.

 

[RickP]

My low point was sewing my finger to a hat.....while hand sewing!!! The stitch went through a callous on my finger so did not feel it. I did notice it when I set the hat down and it followed me out of the room.

double ouch.... probably on a light colored felt too Im betting lol

 

[belfastboy]

double ouch.... probably on a light colored felt too Im betting lol

Didn't hurt, it went through the callous.....

 

[shopkin]

Hand sewing will raise a callous in weird places.

 

[Martvjp]

I did one hat recently using a double needle and a running saddle stitch. Took a bit longer, but the two needles let me identify where the next needle went. Gives a nice clean stitch line with no gaps. When I got back around to where I started, I just double stitched the next three or four holes and it locked things in just fine. Im coming around to agreeing about basting first (probably preferable to the double side tape as theres no risk of gumming up the needles)... once It dawned on me that the basting doesnt need to be overly neat (it comes out afterwards anyway), it goes pretty quickly. If I were going to be doing multiple hats a week, Id probably be using a machine, but since this is just a semi expensive hobby, Im fine with taking longer doing it by hand (my trick to avoid blood on the hat is to wear a thimble on BOTH index fingers, and pull through with a small pair of needle-nose pliers)

Here is a picture of my new toy picked up yesterday. It is a 3D printed conformateur made by WalshDesign3D (Etsy.com). It is made from ABS plastic, a much higher grade filament than the standard PLA. His price is waaaaay less than the RA version, and it is higher grade filament. This replaces my old acrylic one. View attachment 618955

Can you tell me how it’s working exactly please ? You need to have the one in the middle as well no? How much did you pay ? Thanks a lot !

 

[belfastboy]

Can you tell me how it’s working exactly please ? You need to have the one in the middle as well no? How much did you pay ? Thanks a lot !

This is my first one made from an acrylic plastic. The 3D printed one works the same. It creates a template of the head's shape I then make a tracing on a white sheet of paper. The inner piece to which you refer is a 'formillion' and is not needed.

 

[belfastboy]

Can you tell me how it’s working exactly please ? You need to have the one in the middle as well no? How much did you pay ? Thanks a lot !

The 3D printed one is more substantial/sturdy but they both work well. Acrylic is about $200+ the 3D printed is around $300.

 

[Martvjp]

The 3D printed one is more substantial/sturdy but they both work well. Acrylic is about $200+ the 3D printed is around $300.

Thank you very much for this information ! It’s very useful

 

[belfastboy]

Thank you very much for this information ! It’s very useful

Here are pictures of what I used when I first started. Called a Flex Curve....does pretty much the same thing and it costs $10

 

[Martvjp]

It’s a great idea , as I am starting it’s very good to know thanks a lot

 

[belfastboy]

It’s a great idea , as I am starting it’s very good to know thanks a lot

I write a monthly column in HaTalk eMagazine. Each month I cover a step in the hat making process (started last Sept or October). A subscription costs $5 per month and all the back issues are archived and available. In the next few months I will complete the series. Also, in the next 4 weeks I will release my 6 hour video course covering the A to Z of hat making. Contact HatCourses.com to put your name on the early release discount list

 

[Martvjp]

I write a monthly column in HaTalk eMagazine. Each month I cover a step in the hat making process (started last Sept or October). A subscription costs $5 per month and all the back issues are archived and available. In the next few months I will complete the series. Also, in the next 4 weeks I will release my 6 hour video course covering the A to Z of hat making. Contact HatCourses.com to put your name on the early release discount list

Yes I am planning to register to HatTalk e magazine , good to know that’s you’re doing it ! I will put my name for early release on Hatcourses.com as well . Thanks !

 

[Darrell2688]

The flex curve is a great idea I got from Wolfbrae Custom/Robert Gault to use the Flex Curve. Ask your customer to use the Flex Curve to trace out the pattern on poster paper, then mail it to you, use the pattern to make a band block for the customer then use the band block to form the hat to their head shape, after that the hat should fit like a glove.

I made a band block for myself, and used it for my own hat, worked out great. When I made my personal band block I didn't use the Flex Curve, I cut a 59 cm RO shape, and I used a piece of automotive electrical wire to get the shape of my head, traced it out on the oval shaped wood and cut it out, sanding the edges down for a smooth fit.

Using the Flex Curve does add a little cost to the hat, plus a board that is 2" x 10" x 4' isn't cheap, cutting out the band block, sanding down the edges so the band block fits inside the hat takes time also, however I like the end results of the whole process, you are able to create a comfortable fitting hat.

Robert told me to ask the customer to purchase a Flex Curve and shape it to their head then trace it out on paper like he did in the photo above, then have the customer scan the image and send it to you in an email, then use the customers scanned image and measurements to make a band block for the customer.

I purchased a 30" flex curve just in case someone does order a hat in person. However it would be best to ask your customer to purchase a 30" flex curve to get the proper shape, the Flex Curve does not have wire in the full length of the flex curve, but the Flex Curve is a lot more comfortable to use than automotive wiring.

 

[Martvjp]

Hello everyone,

I am looking for a flat wooden support to place on my desk so I can iron my hat. I often see these in videos, but I can’t seem to find a similar one.
Does anyone have recommendations or suggestions on where I can buy one?

Thank you very much!

 

[belfastboy]

Hello everyone,

I am looking for a flat wooden support to place on my desk so I can iron my hat. I often see these in videos, but I can’t seem to find a similar one.
Does anyone have recommendations or suggestions on where I can buy one?

Thank you very much!

At first I used a thick wooden cutting board purchased at Ikea. It worked well but eventually stained from the dye leaking from dark felts. I then went to a local quartz countertop installer and he let me rummage through his pile of cuttings and I picked out a large on,...no charge as it is scrap . (the cutouts for the sinks). It works very well, hard surface, does not stain, wipes clean with just a swipe of the cloth. The downside is; it is heavy and not easily moved. A thick sheet of plywood 3/4" or so with a good sealant will also work. Without the sealant the plywood will swell/warp from the heat & steam but they are cheap enough. I can pick one 2' x 2' from Home Depot, precut. Another $20 for the Varathane sealant.

 

[Martvjp]

At first I used a thick wooden cutting board purchased at Ikea. It worked well but eventually stained from the dye leaking from dark felts. I then went to a local quartz countertop installer and he let me rummage through his pile of cuttings and I picked out a large on,...no charge as it is scrap . (the cutouts for the sinks). It works very well, hard surface, does not stain, wipes clean with just a swipe of the cloth. The downside is; it is heavy and not easily moved. A thick sheet of plywood 3/4" or so with a good sealant will also work. Without the sealant the plywood will swell/warp from the heat & steam but they are cheap enough. I can pick one 2' x 2' from Home Depot, precut. Another $20 for the Varathane sealant.

Thanks a lot it’s perfect, I will check it out !

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

At first I used a thick wooden cutting board purchased at Ikea. It worked well but eventually stained from the dye leaking from dark felts. I then went to a local quartz countertop installer and he let me rummage through his pile of cuttings and I picked out a large on,...no charge as it is scrap . (the cutouts for the sinks). It works very well, hard surface, does not stain, wipes clean with just a swipe of the cloth. The downside is; it is heavy and not easily moved. A thick sheet of plywood 3/4" or so with a good sealant will also work. Without the sealant the plywood will swell/warp from the heat & steam but they are cheap enough. I can pick one 2' x 2' from Home Depot, precut. Another $20 for the Varathane sealant.

The marble sink cutout is a genius idea for this…and other things. Thinking turntable isolation base.
Thanks.
B

 

[Hurricane Jack]

Depending on the size required I have a Formica countertop drop (not heavy, doubles as a cutting board), a wood pizza peel from a garage sale, but my favorite for ironing brims is a glass carousel from a junk microwave. I like that the glass rim holds the iron butt up off the felt so I’m only ironing with the point. And the Pyrex glass takes the heat.