Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[belfastboy]

Robert, as you are a hatmaker, I am curious if the listed size of a hat block includes the little extra diameter/circumference to account for the sweatband, effectively yielding a final fitted sized as listed on the block, or if one needs to use a slightly larger block (1-2 sizes larger) than the desired final size in a finished hat (with attached sweatband). I suspect the latter, I am correct?
Thank you,
Raul

Most of my blocks are in centimetres...1cm increments. I have them in sizes from 54cm, 55 etc.... up to 63cm and that is the exact measure of their circumference. I am a 59cm so when I block a hat for myself I block it on a 60cm to allow for the sweatband. I am close to a long oval as they fit me better than the regular oval. So if you are getting a block for yourself determine your shape and also the profile of the block, (taper or no, height of dome or no etc etc. ) If I get a client that measures 59,5cm I use painters tape and duct tape to increase the size of my 60cm by half a centimetre.

 

[chivaceae]

Most of my blocks are in centimetres...1cm increments. I have them in sizes from 54cm, 55 etc.... up to 63cm and that is the exact measure of their circumference. I am a 59cm so when I block a hat for myself I block it on a 60cm to allow for the sweatband. I am close to a long oval as they fit me better than the regular oval. So if you are getting a block for yourself determine your shape and also the profile of the block, (taper or no, height of dome or no etc etc. ) If I get a client that measures 59,5cm I use painters tape and duct tape to increase the size of my 60cm by half a centimetre.

Thank you! You confirmed my thoughts on this.

 

[dmeist]

Pouncing question. Do you pounce the “Full pounce finish” felts?
Wondering if I’m over doing it causing the molting look on the brims.

 

[belfastboy]

Pouncing question. Do you pounce the “Full pounce finish” felts?
Wondering if I’m over doing it causing the molting look on the brims.

I love the pouncing process and miss it when I work on the already finished 95gr FEPSA beaver or Ukraine suede finish rabbit....BUT i do a bit anyway.

But it is a light light sanding with 1200grit just as a polish....not really necessary. If you want a softer more malleable feel to the Ukraine 160gr rabbit I double block it. First blocking it inside out and pouncing the heck out of it with a 400-600 grit paper. Because it is inside out I don't worry about any mottling. Then once I have the feel I am seeking I reblock inside right and give it a light sand with the 1200 grit.
I also do what I call a final polish with 3M white non abrasive pads. It does not remove any felt but gives the felt a shine by lining up the nap all in one direction.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I love the pouncing process and miss it when I work on the already finished 95gr FEPSA beaver or Ukraine suede finish rabbit....BUT i do a bit anyway.

But it is a light light sanding with 1200grit just as a polish....not really necessary. If you want a softer more malleable feel to the Ukraine 160gr rabbit I double block it. First blocking it inside out and pouncing the heck out of it with a 400-600 grit paper. Because it is inside out I don't worry about any mottling. Then once I have the feel I am seeking I reblock inside right and give it a light sand with the 1200 grit.
I also do what I call a final polish with 3M white non abrasive pads. It does not remove any felt but gives the felt a shine by lining up the nap all in one direction.

I think one of the reasons Gannon likes Winchester beaver so much is his ability to block it inside out and really thin the crown through pouncing and ironing. The FEPSA beaver is very nice, but it’s also very different.

 

[belfastboy]

I think one of the reasons Gannon likes Winchester beaver so much is his ability to block it inside out and really thin the crown through pouncing and ironing. The FEPSA beaver is very nice, but it’s also very different.

Michael is the master at working the felt. I have been using the double blocking/double pounce on the Ukraine felt as well.

Winchester it is pretty much mandatory these days. I have found that with even the smallest amount of pouncing on the Winchester I risk mottling. Ukraine felts are more consistent but at their heavier weight it takes a great deal of pouncing to soften it up and therein lays the risk of mottling. The FEPSA 95gr come factory finished so I use minimal pouncing if at all....there is not that much felt there in the first place!!!

 

[belfastboy]

I held a hat making workshop this weekend. Here are two of the creations. Light grey is Ukraine beaver in Granite with a silver grey vintage grosgrain ribbon. 5 3/4" open crown and a 2 3/4" unbound brim.
The dark grey is FEPSA Beaver also in their Granite. Vintage grosgrain ribbon in a grey with blue undertones. The maker wanted a hat that he could take back to open crown each time and bash it in the moment with each wear. Full 6" open with a 2 7/8" brim.

 

[Darrell2688]

Most of my blocks are in centimetres...1cm increments. I have them in sizes from 54cm, 55 etc.... up to 63cm and that is the exact measure of their circumference. I am a 59cm so when I block a hat for myself I block it on a 60cm to allow for the sweatband. I am close to a long oval as they fit me better than the regular oval. So if you are getting a block for yourself determine your shape and also the profile of the block, (taper or no, height of dome or no etc etc. ) If I get a client that measures 59,5cm I use painters tape and duct tape to increase the size of my 60cm by half a centimetre.

Do you use a long oval when you make a hat for yourself or do you use a hat stretcher for a better fit? I wear the same hat size as you and after making a hat for myself I find that if I push in on the sides just a little the hat fits better.

 

[belfastboy]

Do you use a long oval when you make a hat for yourself or do you use a hat stretcher for a better fit? I wear the same hat size as you and after making a hat for myself I find that if I push in on the sides just a little the hat fits better.

A long oval block fits me perfectly. Hat jacks are by nature creating a long oval footprint as it stretches the hat north to south.....unless you buy the more expensive 4way stretch. When making a hat and sizing a client at distance it is critical that you get the right measure, head shape and dimensions north/south and east/west to get the right fit for them.

 

[Darrell2688]

A long oval block fits me perfectly. Hat jacks are by nature creating a long oval footprint as it stretches the hat north to south.....unless you buy the more expensive 4way stretch. When making a hat and sizing a client at distance it is critical that you get the right measure, head shape and dimensions north/south and east/west to get the right fit for them.

How much difference in length and width is there between a regular oval and a long oval 60cm block? I am guessing that there is maybe a 1/4" more in length and 1/4" less in width. I could wrong with the guess?

 

[belfastboy]

How much difference in length and width is there between a regular oval and a long oval 60cm block? I am guessing that there is maybe a 1/4" more in length and 1/4" less in width. I could wrong with the guess?

I am not sure.

 

[Darrell2688]

Well I am in need of some information and a bit of help, I think this is the right place to ask. I was contacted by someone that wants a Smooth Criminal Hat. That is something new for me, from my web search the hat looks like a fedora with a wide brim, it has a smooth textured look with soft impressions in the front of the crown. That is the impression that I got after looking at some photos.
The person that is interested in the hat hasn't give me a hat size or any color choice, I am waiting for that information.
Does anyone know what the specs are on a Smooth Criminal Hat?

 

[belfastboy]

Well I am in need of some information and a bit of help, I think this is the right place to ask. I was contacted by someone that wants a Smooth Criminal Hat. That is something new for me, from my web search the hat looks like a fedora with a wide brim, it has a smooth textured look with soft impressions in the front of the crown. That is the impression that I got after looking at some photos.
The person that is interested in the hat hasn't give me a hat size or any color choice, I am waiting for that information.
Does anyone know what the specs are on a Smooth Criminal Hat?

It is a Michael Jackson reference. He had a song or album/video by that name. Then likely a hat is involved.

 

[belfastboy]

It is a Michael Jackson reference. He had a song or album/video by that name. Then likely a hat is involved.

Also there is a thread here in the Lounge dedicated to 'Smooth Criminal"

 

[Darrell2688]

Also there is a thread here in the Lounge dedicated to 'Smooth Criminal"

Thank you for the information, I never thought to use the search button, I have been just a little busy all day, getting two hats ready for photos, one to post on Ebay, the other, my grey fedora, the person that bought it wanted it to be bashed into a Indiana Jones Raiders Hat. I just finished up that bit of work and if the gray is dry I will ship it out to the customer.
The Smooth Criminal hat looks like it is a fedora in white fur felt with white liner and a 2" wide brown hat band, brim turned down in the front with the brim in the back almost flat, slightly curved up edges. I could be wrong?

 

[gam]

First attempt at a leather bow and band.

 

[yestahh]

For the blocks I have, a 7 1/4 or 6 7/8 block makes a hat body big enough to insert a sweatband to achieve a 7 1/4 or 6 7/8 hat. I don't use a 7 3/8 block to make a 7 1/4 hat. All of the blocks I have are this way. Is your experience different?

What is the purpose of a band block? Apologies for such a basic questions.

 

[Frunobulax]

What is the purpose of a band block? Apologies for such a basic questions.

A band block keeps the shape of the hat in between wearings, or for a hatter, to customize the hat to the wearer's head.

A block is used to shape the entire crown of the hat, whereas you can think of the band block being the bottom 1.5" - 2" of block. They can also be customized to fit the shape of your specific head for a customized fit. Many Members keep a band block in some hats when not wearing if they have a tendency to shrink or distort in between wearings.

 

[yestahh]

A band block keeps the shape of the hat in between wearings, or for a hatter, to customize the hat to the wearer's head.

A block is used to shape the entire crown of the hat, whereas you can think of the band block being the bottom 1.5" - 2" of block. They can also be customized to fit the shape of your specific head for a customized fit. Many Members keep a band block in some hats when not wearing if they have a tendency to shrink or distort in between wearings.

Thanks for your time in writing out a great answer.

 

[belfastboy]

Guy Morse Brown out of the UK has just introduced a 3/4" brim curling iron. I have been using their 1/2" and nagging them to build a larger one. Finally it has come out. I really like their curling iron. It is simple, effective and relatively inexpensive. I have ones that cost 5 times as much and are harder to use. Put my order in today and will post a review once it gets here.