Hat making?? Learning Millinery..

[belfastboy]

I would say that there is a strong possibility that we will see a shortage in fur felts considering what Putin is doing in Europe. Putin is having a tantrum, so all of the neighboring countries have to suffer a bit and slow down on production.

Yes, much of it has to do with Ukraine being the source for a big % of the worlds furs both beaver and rabbit.

 

[Coup de Tete]

I just went to the Millinery Whse website and saw he is SOLD OUT of all of his beaver felts ....both 160 & 200gr. Damn, that was quick.

Just to give a bit of context, MW gets their felts from Ukraine so its been tough sledding getting felts though I have spoken to the factory recently and they are about to ramp production up again in fall. The only problem with that is they get a lot of their fur from russia and this particular factory provides fur bundles for many of the other factories around the world including Winchester. Its going to be hard to get felts period for a spell here.

 

[belfastboy]

Just to give a bit of context, MW gets their felts from Ukraine so its been tough sledding getting felts though I have spoken to the factory recently and they are about to ramp production up again in fall. The only problem with that is they get a lot of their fur from russia and this particular factory provides fur bundles for many of the other factories around the world including Winchester. Its going to be hard to get felts period for a spell here.

Just to give a bit of context, MW gets their felts from Ukraine so its been tough sledding getting felts though I have spoken to the factory recently and they are about to ramp production up again in fall. The only problem with that is they get a lot of their fur from russia and this particular factory provides fur bundles for many of the other factories around the world including Winchester. Its going to be hard to get felts period for a spell here.

Yes, from what I have heard from other sources Tonak & Winchester are having difficulties meeting orders/deliveries. Do you anticipate any major price increases?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Just to give a bit of context, MW gets their felts from Ukraine so its been tough sledding getting felts though I have spoken to the factory recently and they are about to ramp production up again in fall. The only problem with that is they get a lot of their fur from russia and this particular factory provides fur bundles for many of the other factories around the world including Winchester. Its going to be hard to get felts period for a spell here.

South American nutria/coypu shouldn’t be impacted.

Maybe this supply problem will help me slow down ordering custom hats.

 

[Coup de Tete]

Yes, from what I have heard from other sources Tonak & Winchester are having difficulties meeting orders/deliveries. Do you anticipate any major price increases?

I spoke with Tonak last month and they were just implementing a price hike. They fortunately source the majority of their fur in country so they shouldn't be too effected. The big issue is how dependant all these companies are on each other. Fepsa has a sister company that processes all the raw beaver fur for many of the felt companies (ukraine does their own but we all know that they are going through hell right now). Winchester is its own beast, they are owned by the company contracted to make all police and military hats in the US so they are making felt for that company first and fill out what orders they can for hatters secondary. Its going to be tough for the next while but I am in touch with most manufacturers on a regular basis as I navigate keeping up with orders.

 

[Coup de Tete]

South American nutria/coypu shouldn’t be impacted.

Maybe this supply problem will help me slow down ordering custom hats.

Correct,
I havent been in touch with sunrise in a spell as we need a steady supply of rabbit to keep prices in reason for our wholesale clients. Nutria is always an option for hatters needing felts for customs as europe navigates the current state of affairs.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Correct,
I havent been in touch with sunrise in a spell as we need a steady supply of rabbit to keep prices in reason for our wholesale clients. Nutria is always an option for hatters needing felts for customs as europe navigates the current state of affairs.

The most popular colors don’t last long at Sunrise. It seems that they sell out of most all their felts and then have to wait for the next order. Their availability isn’t a sure thing, but the causes are different.

 

[ChaimSimchaHats]

Tim Mahovich, Tim@purebeaver has just announced his agreement with with FEPSA to be their exclusive stocking distributor for North America. He has commitments and a delivery schedule from FEPSA that will provide a steady supply of their wonderful, top quality felts.

If you are looking for a one stop shop for all your hatting needs then check out @purebeaver on Instagram.

I have used a few of the 100% beaver, 95gram felts and they are superb. These felts replicate the look and feel of vintage. Soft yet with a firmness to the felt. I can almost blow the centre dent crease into the hat with my breathe and the crease holds without the use of steam.

Time has come a long way since his startup days as a hatter here in The Lounge.

Tim is also offering complete startup packages for newbie hatters. Fully comprehensive: training, supplies, equipment and branding are all now available. Contact Tim on Instagram or Text him 570.570.9258 for details.

I completely agree with Belfastboy!

My family and I moved from Portland OR to Baltimore and have been working to re-opened my hat business since closing at the start of Covid.
I have not been able to acquire any beaver fur felt since launching in 2020. Having been waitlisted for years with other fur felt suppliers, I finally found Tim. I sent him a message on Instagram and he immediately replied. fast forward two weeks and we were headed up to meet Tim Mahovich of Pure Beaver Hat Supply. He invited my wife and I to come visit his operation and talk shop. He is up in Pennsylvania (just a few hours north of us).
He is an amazing host, we wound up staying there for more than 5 hours! he gave me a lesson in his Sweatband tutorial and in brim binding.
I bought several beautiful beaver fur felts, an array of sweatbands, liners and he helped me get my logo dye cast for my liners and soon sweatbands. His graciousness and willingness to share his knowledge is fantastic to say the least. He has gained a friend and customer from me.
Folks, he is a one stop shop for all your hat making and startup business needs.
As an instructor, he is patient and explains everything thoroughly and lets you experience hands on.
I would highly recommend new hatters take a week or month course with him. Believe me, you won't regret it and you'll come away with several fully made hats for your showroom.

Above, Tim and I working on the sweatband tutorial

Above me working on the skills I learned with Tim

My daughter and I working on on a beautiful green beaver fur felt

A wonderful black beaver fur felt.

 

[ILB Frank]

Maybe it's time we put together the Hat-Lovers Co-op, send a contingent down to the swamps of Louisiana and collect up a big batch of nutria. Start making our own felt for our custom hatters.
Who knew the 21st century would be the revival of "Nutria Quality."

#madeinusawithusamaterial
#feltindependence

 

[PURE BEAVER HAT SUPPLY]

Just to give a bit of context, MW gets their felts from Ukraine so its been tough sledding getting felts though I have spoken to the factory recently and they are about to ramp production up again in fall. The only problem with that is they get a lot of their fur from russia and this particular factory provides fur bundles for many of the other factories around the world including Winchester. Its going to be hard to get felts period for a spell here.

Hello everyone. We, PBHS are the recognized FEPSA distributor in USA/North America; and we are selling world wide.

[note: as we get the products, we will have professional photos taken, then turn over to our web developer; and a complete site will be live soon, at www.purebeaverhatsupply.

We are taking business orders now and preparing our client data base for our 2023 sales schedules.

You can now build your 2023 business model around Pure Beaver Hat Supply for annual unit volume, product consistency and highest quality felts.

Our distributorship schedule with FEPSA is 250 hat bodies each week x 47 weeks; and is to repeat in the following years.
Our FEPSA products just entered USA, clearing customs, we expect delivery this week.

Inquires can be made at purebeaver.customerservice@gmail.com

NOTE: Arriving inventory: Western big brim, Black, Natural, Lite Belly, Lite Coca. These are made 5.5 inch tall, brims are 13 cm., 5.109 us inch. 240 g [ we will carry 5.5 and 6 inch crowns in 2023]

Arriving, 100x Dress Weight Rabbit, we offer sized bodies, 15 colors. We requested felts manufactured with a vintage felt hand feel. They are light weight, and depending on felt color the weights are 115 or 120 grams.

The dress weight specs are 5.5 inch crowns, brims are 9 cm, 3.509 inch. The polishing/pounce level is smooth; Special Pounce 600 applied.

Stiffness levels will be like those, in our current supply of Dress Beaver 100x 95 gram. Amazing product.

Mid September we will have 200 additional units western Black and Natural

November will be 700 units of Western Big Brim 7x = 7% Beaver is blended with Argentinian Wild Hare. Special pounce 600 finish.

With the FEPSA western weight, aside of finishing, we like to point out a very nice sign of quality; they have thin brim material and are a very sturdy brim as opposed to the thicker more heavy/fat brim, cut brim more visible to the eye.

We have been doing product development for over 3 years to achieve dress weight products to be made like so many wish for. We will also stock the next bigger size crown which covers the 6 inch blockings.

A worthy note, we will be getting some with larger brims so we can cover flange 714 for those old west flat top hats and Gambler hats. We also buy 7 inch crowns with 15cm+ brims for the Old West 1890s early 1900s builds.

Paying close attention to the industry, we supply all business big and small. Any hatmakers or large shops whom need to secure their business needs should reach out; and get yourself in line/position in our growing client base.

January 2023 continues an amazing relationship with FEPSA and we will officially move into our warehouse facility. We were accepted into a business incubation program with our local Chamber of Commerce, leasing warehouse and business office space to better serve you.

Thanks for your time reading our message.

Kindest Regards,
Tim

 

[jlee562]

Just sent an email inquiry! Think it's time to make more hats...

 

[PURE BEAVER HAT SUPPLY]

Just sent an email inquiry! Think it's time to make more hats...

Nice to see you again Jared! Thank you.

 

[belfastboy]

Hello everyone. We, PBHS are the recognized FEPSA distributor in USA/North America; and we are selling world wide.

[note: as we get the products, we will have professional photos taken, then turn over to our web developer; and a complete site will be live soon, at www.purebeaverhatsupply.

We are taking business orders now and preparing our client data base for our 2023 sales schedules.

You can now build your 2023 business model around Pure Beaver Hat Supply for annual unit volume, product consistency and highest quality felts.

Our distributorship schedule with FEPSA is 250 hat bodies each week x 47 weeks; and is to repeat in the following years.
Our FEPSA products just entered USA, clearing customs, we expect delivery this week.

Inquires can be made at purebeaver.customerservice@gmail.com

NOTE: Arriving inventory: Western big brim, Black, Natural, Lite Belly, Lite Coca. These are made 5.5 inch tall, brims are 13 cm., 5.109 us inch. 240 g [ we will carry 5.5 and 6 inch crowns in 2023]

Arriving, 100x Dress Weight Rabbit, we offer sized bodies, 15 colors. We requested felts manufactured with a vintage felt hand feel. They are light weight, and depending on felt color the weights are 115 or 120 grams.

The dress weight specs are 5.5 inch crowns, brims are 9 cm, 3.509 inch. The polishing/pounce level is smooth; Special Pounce 600 applied.

Stiffness levels will be like those, in our current supply of Dress Beaver 100x 95 gram. Amazing product.

Mid September we will have 200 additional units western Black and Natural

November will be 700 units of Western Big Brim 7x = 7% Beaver is blended with Argentinian Wild Hare. Special pounce 600 finish.

With the FEPSA western weight, aside of finishing, we like to point out a very nice sign of quality; they have thin brim material and are a very sturdy brim as opposed to the thicker more heavy/fat brim, cut brim more visible to the eye.

We have been doing product development for over 3 years to achieve dress weight products to be made like so many wish for. We will also stock the next bigger size crown which covers the 6 inch blockings.

A worthy note, we will be getting some with larger brims so we can cover flange 714 for those old west flat top hats and Gambler hats. We also buy 7 inch crowns with 15cm+ brims for the Old West 1890s early 1900s builds.

Paying close attention to the industry, we supply all business big and small. Any hatmakers or large shops whom need to secure their business needs should reach out; and get yourself in line/position in our growing client base.

January 2023 continues an amazing relationship with FEPSA and we will officially move into our warehouse facility. We were accepted into a business incubation program with our local Chamber of Commerce, leasing warehouse and business office space to better serve you.

Thanks for your time reading our message.

Kindest Regards,
Tim

Exciting news!

 

[PURE BEAVER HAT SUPPLY]

South American nutria/coypu shouldn’t be impacted.

Maybe this supply problem will help me slow down ordering custom hats.

All fur type went through the roof; and March through June saw highest prices ever due to bidding wars for an already scarce Beaver fur market.

Older makers call it Urban Cowboy Syndrome. Where demand for raw Beaver fur and the scarcity of it, is first issue. This has been happening for the last 6+ years as hat world exploded.

The Farm raised rabbit issue in Ukraine, rabbit fur is no longer there like it was. major factor.

Representative from Tonak was here with me for 2 days last month. It was made clear, for them, War needs to end, people need to move back into Ukraine, from the time this war ends, 2+ years from that point as people return, the skins market will grow to maybe 70% of what it was before war.

3 or more years to be 100% Their business is hurt deeply when local supply is driven away.

All species of other fur types has increased. We personally saw major increases due to raw product availability. We are working on a nutria program and production schedule in Bolivia, and we are waiting on samples. We'll soon see just how badly the impact is for this market.

Talking with a few older hatmakers, and a Master Hatter from a major manufacture, the suggestion from the veteran masters say for our Nutria project from their personal experiences, is to get 50% Nutria with 50% Argentinian Wild Hare. We have developed relationships in both places, Bolivia and C.R. we will be buying fur from the 3 leading manufactures in the world.

Brent, I hope you are correct and Nutria not be impacted. But lets not forget the minimums we must buy, Payments to Customs for Annual Bonding, Brokerage Fees each shipment, UPS fees each time, Fish and Wild Life Import license, and Insane shipping costs. example of freight bill was $4,650.00 USD on our shipment. 1070 felts. 12 cartons

We feel it very important to talk with clients and potential large scale clients and educate them, to help them understand the industry situation; as we strive to provide ALL hatmakers in USA, North America and across the Globe. Thanks PBHS/Tim

 

[belfastboy]

All fur type went through the roof; and March through June saw highest prices ever due to bidding wars for an already scarce Beaver fur market.

Older makers call it Urban Cowboy Syndrome. Where demand for raw Beaver fur and the scarcity of it, is first issue. This has been happening for the last 6+ years as hat world exploded.

The Farm raised rabbit issue in Ukraine, rabbit fur is no longer there like it was. major factor.

Representative from Tonak was here with me for 2 days last month. It was made clear, for them, War needs to end, people need to move back into Ukraine, from the time this war ends, 2+ years from that point as people return, the skins market will grow to maybe 70% of what it was before war.

3 or more years to be 100% Their business is hurt deeply when local supply is driven away.

All species of other fur types has increased. We personally saw major increases due to raw product availability. We are working on a nutria program and production schedule in Bolivia, and we are waiting on samples. We'll soon see just how badly the impact is for this market.

Talking with a few older hatmakers, and a Master Hatter from a major manufacture, the suggestion from the veteran masters say for our Nutria project from their personal experiences, is to get 50% Nutria with 50% Argentinian Wild Hare. We have developed relationships in both places, Bolivia and C.R. we will be buying fur from the 3 leading manufactures in the world.

Brent, I hope you are correct and Nutria not be impacted. But lets not forget the minimums we must buy, Payments to Customs for Annual Bonding, Brokerage Fees each shipment, UPS fees each time, Fish and Wild Life Import license, and Insane shipping costs. example of freight bill was $4,650.00 USD on our shipment. 1070 felts. 12 cartons

We feel it very important to talk with clients and potential large scale clients and educate them, to help them understand the industry situation; as we strive to provide ALL hatmakers in USA, North America and across the Globe. Thanks PBHS/Tim

I would love to have a reliable source for Nutria felts. But my experience is the ones on the market right now are too finicky and thus too risky to work on. They are too sensitive to water. You can steam them but don't get them wet as it affects the dye. Also I have fond the dye penetration to be sketchy and the felts have a tendency to blotch & mottle waaaay too easily. These are problems never encountered with FEPSA or with the Ukraine felts....and once in a while with Winchester. But at least with Winchester it was repairable with alcohol or luring. With the Nutria I have yet to discover a repair once it is revealed. Tread cautiously on felt quality/reliability before you lay in a large inventory.

 

[Frnando]

Hello everyone, Im new to hat making and I was hoping someone could help me with some tips. I got a few rabbit fur felts from millinery warehouse to make some western hats. I was pouncing the hat and I don't know if I over did it or what is the problem. I looks like I get spots where there is no more "hair". I attached a picture and you can see it more in the edge of the brim but is everywhere. Also it is starting to loose the rich black color. Is there a way to recover that or have I ruined it? I used 120 grit and then started with 220 and that's when I started noticing it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Darrell2688]

I am kind of new to hat making myself, but I will offer a little input here. The 120 ansd 220 is a bit to much for pouncing on fur felts, you might go with 400, 600 and 800 grits for pouncing. As for the uneven tones you will get that when pouncing your felts and sometimes you can spritz the hat felt with rubbing alcohol and then give it a little singe with a lighter, the alcohol produces a blue flame, LET IT BURN for manybe 5 seconds, Don't get the hat to wet with alcohol, keep it lite.

 

[belfastboy]

Hello everyone, Im new to hat making and I was hoping someone could help me with some tips. I got a few rabbit fur felts from millinery warehouse to make some western hats. I was pouncing the hat and I don't know if I over did it or what is the problem. I looks like I get spots where there is no more "hair". I attached a picture and you can see it more in the edge of the brim but is everywhere. Also it is starting to loose the rich black color. Is there a way to recover that or have I ruined it? I used 120 grit and then started with 220 and that's when I started noticing it. Any help would be appreciated.

I suggest that you are creating this issue using such coarse grit sandpaper. I use 800 grit, then 1000 then finish it with 1200. I am also careful to not apply pressure while sanding. I use a light hand and just allow the sandpaper to do its work. You may want to attempt to turn the capeline inside out reblock and start over......only this time use the fine grit and don't be so enthusiastic with the pouncing.

 

[belfastboy]

Hello everyone, Im new to hat making and I was hoping someone could help me with some tips. I got a few rabbit fur felts from millinery warehouse to make some western hats. I was pouncing the hat and I don't know if I over did it or what is the problem. I looks like I get spots where there is no more "hair". I attached a picture and you can see it more in the edge of the brim but is everywhere. Also it is starting to loose the rich black color. Is there a way to recover that or have I ruined it? I used 120 grit and then started with 220 and that's when I started noticing it. Any help would be appreciated.

I suggest you be cautious with the alcohol and flame. The margin for error is slim ....too much alcohol, too long aflame and you risk cooking the shellac and you will end up with a very stiff hat.

 

[belfastboy]

Hello everyone, Im new to hat making and I was hoping someone could help me with some tips. I got a few rabbit fur felts from millinery warehouse to make some western hats. I was pouncing the hat and I don't know if I over did it or what is the problem. I looks like I get spots where there is no more "hair". I attached a picture and you can see it more in the edge of the brim but is everywhere. Also it is starting to loose the rich black color. Is there a way to recover that or have I ruined it? I used 120 grit and then started with 220 and that's when I started noticing it. Any help would be appreciated.

There is a company in the UK that sells 'seconds'...The Trimmings Company. They have both rabbit and beaver felts at great prices and the flaws are very hard to discern. I bought many of their felts when I started out as practice felts. You might want to look them up....using these felts cut down the cost of your learning process.