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Hat Jack vs other stretchers?

Cordite Blues

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Rochester, MI USA
looks like it might work....

bruce wayne said:
Here is an image of one very similar that is opened a little to give you an idea.

1972819285_cf583abdf3.jpg


I'm liking the one on the lower left. It appears that as the length is increased, so is the width.

What brand is it, or your source, or do all of the typical 4-way stretchers work like that?

Thanks for the pics, BW.

CB
 

carldelo

One Too Many
Messages
1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
Cordite Blues said:
I'm liking the one on the lower left. It appears that as the length is increased, so is the width.

What brand is it, or your source, or do all of the typical 4-way stretchers work like that?

Thanks for the pics, BW.

CB

That looks vintage to me. All the 4-way stretchers change width and length simultaneously. The modern ones have pegs between the 4 pieces, not a nice steel framework like the one in the photo. Ebay may yield one of those if you look long enough, but don't expect it to get big enough for a large hat size.
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
I think the Lounge is having a technical problem. Your link is doing the same thing mine is doing - starting to go to the right place, but redirecting to this thread.
 

Cordite Blues

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Rochester, MI USA
yup, me too

Lefty said:
I think the Lounge is having a technical problem. Your link is doing the same thing mine is doing - starting to go to the right place, but redirecting to this thread.

Round and round it goes. I thought it was my browser.

Cordite Blues
 

carldelo

One Too Many
Messages
1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
Links to Manhattan and LA Wardrobe Supply were already posted - but that modern 4-way stretcher is not like the one on the lower left in the picture above, which appears to be a really nice vintage model.
 

Bill Greene

One of the Regulars
Messages
158
Location
North Carolina, near Charlotte
4-Way Stretcher

I don't have a working camera at this exact moment, but I'll try and take a few photos and post them soon.

The bottom line is yes, the 4-way stretcher opens and closes in both directions simultaneously. The sides are guided and held only by rods that connect the four pieces. The central turnbuckle provides the pressure that pushes the sides out. And has long as you build your particular stretcher to be slightly smaller than your hat size, the stretcher will most likely accommodate a size much, much larger than your head (not that you would need it).

In my case, I used 1/4" chrome/zinc rods for the sides, and a typical hardware store turnbuckle. And I didn't use the sticky backed cork, I glued mine with gap filling superglue and an activator.

Another FL member asked me for a brief synopsis of the build, so I crafted a line by line method, so to speak. This was how I did it, but I would imagine there are many other ways:

Make your glue up block the circumference, shape and thickness that you want it to be when it is CLOSED. For descriptive purposes, I'm going to say "oval" when I mean "shape" of your stretch. I used a bandsaw to cut out the oval.

Slice the oval in half to finish cutting out the center on your bandsaw, OR, even better, use a jigsaw to cut out the center. If you used a jigsaw, you're finished with this stage. If you used a bandsaw, you need to glue the oval back together to make one solid piece. When you're done, you should have a large letter "O" that fits into your hats with about 1/4 inch to spare.

Buy an appropriately sized turnbuckle at the local hardware store. I bought the kind with the eyebolts on each end, and then I took a hacksaw and cut the eyebolts off. You could do the same thing with a grinder, or metal saw, etc.

Now determine where you want the jig to separate. In my instance i just drew straight lines in an "X" shape on top of my oval...MAKING CERTAIN to leave enough wood for the rods/braces to be inserted into. It is imperative you get this step correct. You'll want to leave as much material as possible inside the wood for your rods/braces.

Now make the X cuts and you should end up with four pieces. A top, bottom, a left side and a right side.

Drill holes in the top and bottom pieces making certain they line straight up with each other. Remember, straight! I did this on a drill press, so it was easy, but it could be done with any drill. Match the holes to the size of your turnbuckle bolts. These should fit tight. You don't want any slop here. At this point you can do a test fit with the turnbuckle and the top/bottom pieces, but don't glue them in just yet.

Now put the jig back together, and use a rubber band to hold it in the oval shape. Draw straight lines across the cut lines in the length you want your braces to be. You will draw four lines. My lines were about 2.5" in length, which meant I wanted my braces to be approx. 1.25" in each section.

Now take the oval apart and carefully drill straight holes in each section. In my case, I used 1/4" chrome/zinc rods that were 2.5 inches in length and, again, I matched the holes and the rods/braces to very similar tolerances.

Now glue your turnbuckles in. I glued mine in with a fast setting epoxy. Make sure the turnbuckle opens and closes easily when the glue is dried. I then glued all four pieces into the left and right sides. Two on the left. Two on the right.

Put the jig back together carefully, and adjust the action as needed with a wood file. I had to take a little off in a couple of spots to get the action to be smooth and firm.

Just for fun, I lined the outside of mine with cork, so that it would be soft against the sweatbands of my hats.

I hope that helps.

Bill
 

suitedcboy

One Too Many
Messages
1,348
Location
Fort Worth Texas or thereabouts
I did a 20 minute hatstretcher. Used two pieces of scrap 2X4, 4 inches of 3/8 inch all-thread, 3/8 nut and 3/8 flat washer.
I took my best fitting hat (a stiff western) and a short piece of a pencil. I laid the 2x4 piece over the hat and used the pencil pushed against the sweatband and up against the wood to trace the contour onto wood. I did this at the front and back.
I made sure my front to back opening of hat would allow the cut pieces to be inserted when I was finished, i.e., the cut line was adjusted on the wood to make one of the pieces a bit more narrower so the stretcher would fit into hat.
I cut wood with jigsaw and then rasped and sanded to smooth the wood a bit.
I used a 11/32 bit to drill the center of one piece of wood and then I screwed the all-thread into this this piece almost 2 inches. I drilled the other piece of wood in the center with a 13/32 bit a little more than 2 inches. This bit is large enough that the all-thread will slide into the bored hole without catching but is not loose in the bore. I added the nut and washer and it was finished. I had a western hat I bought that was a custom described as a 7 1/8 but was too small by a bit for my head. The custom contour stretcher fixed this perfectly. The hat fits like I had worn it for days on end.
I did this as a try out exercise and did not use any alignment rods but after using it I find that it expands evenly and doesn't twist so I probably will not add those pieces.

4377483657_0fc1b3fd40_m.jpg


4378233904_aea14380b4_m.jpg
 

Cordite Blues

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Rochester, MI USA
stretch indeed

Bill Greene said:
And has long as you build your particular stretcher to be slightly smaller than your hat size, the stretcher will most likely accommodate a size much, much larger than your head (not that you would need it).

Bill

You, sir, are too kind. I'm still the stuff of my mother's nightmares, even 57+ years after my delivery. :eusa_doh:

Pics would be great, when you get them. Thank you.

Cordite Blues
 

Bill Greene

One of the Regulars
Messages
158
Location
North Carolina, near Charlotte
Cordite Blues said:
Pics would be great, when you get them. Thank you.
Cordite Blues

Here are a few shots of what I made. I'll try and answer any questions. Again, the point was functionality, and not pretty...although it would be very easy to laminate some nice wood on the non-pressure surfaces and make it fancy.

Here's the stretcher when closed. At this point it is less than 23" in circumference:

tn_IMG_0371.jpg


Here is is partially open. The measurement at this point is almost 24":

tn_IMG_0373.jpg


Here is a shot to show you how I glued the rods/braces into the side pieces:

tn_IMG_0372.jpg


One of the cork on the pressure surfaces:

tn_IMG_0374.jpg


And a final pic of the thickness of the cork:

tn_IMG_0375.jpg


Bill
 

Cordite Blues

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Rochester, MI USA
thanks, Bill

Bill Greene said:
Here are a few shots of what I made. I'll try and answer any questions. Again, the point was functionality, and not pretty...although it would be very easy to laminate some nice wood on the non-pressure surfaces and make it fancy. Bill


Bill:
The pics, along with your excellent description, should get me started.

Thanks.

CB
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
Bill Greene said:
Here are a few shots of what I made. I'll try and answer any questions. Again, the point was functionality, and not pretty...although it would be very easy to laminate some nice wood on the non-pressure surfaces and make it fancy.

This is very well done and I'm sure you could see quite a few of those around here if you're so inclined - maybe a fancy version and a down and dirty one. Four ways don't come along very often on the bay, and sell for the new price when they do.
 

squidkidd

New in Town
Messages
6
Location
Portland, OR
I own a jack stand from John Penman and I am very pleased with it. It's essentially a high quality hat jack that doubles as a hat stand. It's made of solid wood and is wide enough where it touches all of the sweat band so it doesn't leave behind any lines when it stretches. The locking mechanism is pretty cool too - it has an adjustable screw that you can set to a desired size which will prevent the jack from over stretching a hat. Well worth the money IMO.

DSC_0630.JPG


DSC_0633.JPG


DSC_0631.JPG


Regards,
Brian
 

seed

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
California
I really like the idea of these stands that John makes, but like some others it has no taper. I know everyone here dreads that word in whatever context it is being used, but isn't it a good idea to have a slight bit of taper for a stretcher so as to not cause a sort of cylindrical doughnut protrusion at the base of the crown? Also, your head has a sort of taper so it stands to reason that a slight taper is proper when stretching the band. And finally, the lowest part of the band has the reed, stitching and leather which is more resistant to being stretched and would require just a bit more tug to pull it and set it, as compared to the rest of the sweat band...Right or wrong?

I am asking, by the way and not stating. Furthermore, when it comes to quality and ingenuity, John's stand blows away the competition in my opinion.
 

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