Handkerchiefs and Pocket Squares

[Chasseur]

Just as an aside, I have started to use the "four point fold" Marc and Paddy recommend and have gotten more compliments in the past couple of months on wearing pocket squares than in years of my rotation between the TV fold and the Captain Peacock "flutted" fold (that is quite similar to the French method posted by Cigarband).

 

[Dan D]

Cigar Band has it...

CigarBand: that's about the ideal, reading your post, for me; a studied effortlessness (if that's not an oxymoron!). Where did you find that article ?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

My father taught me to use the eraser end of a pencil to push the handkerchief to the bottom of the pocket.


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[Torpedo]

Today I wore this one in the "Sydney Opera" style... it is a cotton square. A female co-worker actually pulled it out of the pocket, and was genuinely surprised because she tought it was a fake one, sewn in the pocket - she said some appreciating words when she noticed it was not even a pre-folded item!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

The Syndey Opera fold conquers 'em all. lol


One suggestion, Torpedo: fold the points so that the crease of each fold faces your left arm. IMO it'll look better that way. It's also the way they wore 'em in the golden era. (In the photo above, the creases are facing your breastbone.)


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[Cigarband]

CigarBand: that's about the ideal, reading your post, for me; a studied effortlessness (if that's not an oxymoron!). Where did you find that article ?

I stumbled on it many years ago when I was doing some costume research for a part in a college theater production
of "The Importance of Being Ernest." I copied the passage in my notebook and have wished ever since that I had xeroxed
the entire pamphlet. It was in the Kent State University library Fashion Collection in 1976, KSU today has no record of it and I've never been able to locate another copy.

 

[Levallois]

How far should pocket squares stick out?

I've seen them barely protruding and some that flow out of the pocket several inches. What's the norm? Or is there one? Thanks!

John

 

[Feraud]

I am not sure about a norm but I like a discreet look. Too much business hanging from the pocket looks affected.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

There's no one norm. It depends on your preference.


The British tend to have their pocket handkerchiefs flow out, whereas the (few) Americans who sport them "show less linen".


If you show more than 2 inches, especially if it's floppy silk, then you'll come across as fruity.

.

 

[avedwards]

It also depends on how you fold it I think.

A TV or presidential fold looks best with only about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch or so I'd say.

A single point fold could do with up to two inches perhaps.

A puff fold is versatile as a little or a lot can be shown without looking stupid. However, there is a reasonable limit of course. When it looks like it's overflowing from the pocket there's too much.

Just my opinion of course, and when it comes to pocket squares I can be boring, wearing plain white almost exclusively; so take what I say with a pinch of salt.

 

[Tomasso]

Fold for bizz, puff for play.

 

[Panache]

Fold for bizz, puff for play.

I like that one.

Fairly recently I have stopped using just a single point fold and a standard height for mine. Instead it seems to me that the that the fold (or casual tucked in "fluff" look) of one's pocket square should go with the outfit.

Sometimes I want a more subdued bit of color and a regular shape so I make a single pint fold with low height. Othertimes I want multiple points with a bit more height or the "flowing" look of the casually tucked in square. It does seem that folded and short is far more formal and business like while the "tucked look" is casual.

So for me it depends on the occassion, the outfit, and my mood.

Cheers

Jamie

 

[jamespowers]

If you show more than 2 inches, especially if it's floppy silk, then you'll come across as fruity.

You'll come across like you just drank a Strawberry Daiquiri?

 

[djhatman]

Just do what looks good to you. Some times I show a lot some times very little it is just how I'm feeling at the time.

 

[Geesie]

In my opinion, if it starts to fall over from its own weight, it's out too far.

 

[Forgotten Man]

I'll fold mine with three points sometimes or I'll flop it and stuff it in and let it do it's own thing... this looks much better with sport outfits but when dressing a multi pointed touch is much better. But, nothing that's too engineered of course, wouldn't want to over do it.

I'll wear a TV fold if I'm wearin' one of my later suits but, not with anything pre 50s.

 

[Dr Doran]

I agree with Geesie.

I just scored two sets of nice pocket squares. One, a vintage set through Ebay. Cheap, great designs. Another, a set of modern linen ones in somewhat art deco-esque designs from Thailand. I'll post pics at some point.

I must say, these are far better than my previous ones, which were mostly silk monochromatic ones.

 

[Canadave]

...A female co-worker actually pulled it out of the pocket...

That's kind of rude, isn't it? I heard a guy tell someone who straightened his tie, "Don't touch my tie unless you mean it."

 

[Torpedo]

That's kind of rude, isn't it? I heard a guy tell someone who straightened his tie, "Don't touch my tie unless you mean it."

Well, not that I found it appropriate, but she did it on impulse generated by curiosity, I would say. She was genuinely astounded at the "engineering feat" when she examined it. People are generally amazed, specially by what they perceive as the more elaborate styles. Of course, they make some "interesting" remarks sometimes, out of lack of familiarity, like "warning" me that I have a peak peeking more than the others, or that there is some "irregularity", lack of simmetry or whatever, in the design, "flaws" that I promptly explain to be deliberate. Possibly the better one was when a female co-worker mentioned once that she was surprised at me wearing a "crumpled" pocket square, when I was usually "so sharp and exacting". I had to illuminate her about silk squares and puff folds...

(More or less related anecdote. Sometimes I am awakened in the middle of the night by a phone call, and have to report to my station in answer to some emergency. If this is a pre-scheduled watch, I do not remove my tie's knot, the only occassions I do so, in order not to waste time if I have to dress quickly. Once I forgot, so I tucked it in my pocket, counting on tying it properly when I had the chance. That same woman was at the station too, in the night shift, and she marveled at me being able to keep a sharp standard of dress even if reporting in a hurry - because of the Sydney Opera-styled square at my pocket).

Regarding the how and when, I usually wear linen or cotton to work, either white, white with some color at the borders, or solid colours like pink or light blue. I favour three peaks, four peaks and Sydney Opera styles, and in moderate "expositions" - about as much as is needed for the style to be displayed. Sydney Opera is possibly the one which I wear more exposed.

I normally reserve silk for more festive endeavours, when I may choose other, more flourished, fold styles; although I have a pretty subdued golden silk tone-on-tone paisley patterned square that I do wear at work. I use a discreet puff, then.

 

[Tomasso]

That's kind of rude, isn't it?

Ive had many people snatch my hanky; mostly younger (20's) women............. usually intoxicated. [huh]