Handkerchiefs and Pocket Squares

[crazylegsmurphy]

Hey again,

So I went out shopping and the best I could find in the yellow I needed was a silk one. What do you think? Is silk ok for the 30's / 40's?

 

[Wild Root]

Root,

The hankerchief matches your tie perfectly in your photo. Was that on purpose?

Yep! I found the tie at one vintage expo and then found the hankerchief at another vintage expo. I put on that suit one day and then it hit me that the tie and hankerchief would look smashing together!

Glad you like.

Root.

 

[Wild Root]

Hey again,

So I went out shopping and the best I could find in the yellow I needed was a silk one. What do you think? Is silk ok for the 30's / 40's?

Silk was very popular in the 30's and 40's. I have a few original silk handkerchiefs in my collection. They look very rich!

But one thing I must say, it's only to help mind you, if I were you, I would wear a nice gray hat with that suit. Dark brown doesn't work well with that rich shade. It's better to wear a light colored hat with a dark suit. And a Dark hat with a light colored suit.

I would definitely go with a light gray fedora! That would set off that color very well.

Root.

 

[crazylegsmurphy]

Oh well...only had enough money this year for one $260 fedora..

Have to make due...It's not easy finding the right suit, when you have to thrift store it....

The color isn't that green...I lightened it a tad too...it's more a gray/green

 

[Wild Root]

Ah, it looks real aqua in the photo. I know how the money thing goes. That's why I buy vintage! Some times I only pay $10 bucks for a fedora. Never spent over $80 for a hat. I like custom hats, but I don't believe in spending a lot of money for something that is going to get a beating. But, the rule stands, dark with light and light with dark.

Shopping can be trickey, but if you get out there enough, you'll find some goods!

Good luck!

Root.

 

[crazylegsmurphy]

Matt, any thoughts?

 

[Matt Deckard]

If it were an olive green then the brown would mix well, though with a sort of aqua green it sort of gives it a sickly look, though I need to see you in the outfit in sunlight for a better idea.

Colors of the same value look the best together. Check out this thread http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=2108

Darker hat with darker suit and lighter hat with lighter suit. If it's close though not quite close enough it looks awkward, though if it is way off like a totally different value hat than the jacket, say white hat and navy jacket then it accents. Slightly darker hat with your suit gives too much of a bookend asthetic in my opinion. I'd wear a hat with a matching value in color, or something completely contrasting.

As for Hankies, I call the silk ones pocket squares and would only use them for dressing up and show. The cotton ones I put in my breast pocket are for use and I like utility.

Any further questions on putting colors or patterns together should be continued in the thread linked above on putting it all together.

 

[Brad Bowers]

It's better to wear a light colored hat with a dark suit. And a Dark hat with a light colored suit.

Darker hat with darker suit and lighter hat with lighter suit.

Uh oh, Root and Matt are giving out conflicting advice! What is a guy to do?

Brad

 

[Matt Deckard]

Uh oh, Root and Matt are giving out conflicting advice! What is a guy to do?

Brad

Not really!

"If it's close though not quite close enough it looks awkward, though if it is way off like a totally different value hat than the jacket, say white hat and navy jacket then it accents. Slightly darker hat with your suit gives too much of a bookend asthetic in my opinion. I'd wear a hat with a matching value in color, or something completely contrasting."

 

[Wild Root]

If the hat matches the suit like some I have, then it works very well! But, I agree with Matt that if the hat is a shade off or some what darker then the suit, it's not a good match. Contrasting colors are nice like a white hat and a black or navy suit. That looks real keen! I have seen guys in light tan suits wear a dark hat. That looks nice to in my opinion! Some wear brown with navey suits some times, it works but I feel a gray hat looks better pared with most shades of blue.

And yes, lets get back on track here.

Root.

 

[Wild Root]

(I was taught that matching ties and hankerchiefs in material and pattern were a big no-no)

Well, obviously who taught you that didn't know real haberdashery.

Many Hollywood actors would use colored handkerchiefs with like colors in it to accent the tie and the color of the suit.

White handkerchiefs are great and there is nothing more sharp and classy then a nice clean one in the breast pocket of a nice vintage suit. But, white gets real boring after a wile. That's why I find original patterned handkerchiefs because they were used and were popular in the 30's to the late 40's.

I like having a matching handkerchief with the tie! People just love to see that and it shows real taste.

Root.

 

[Michael Mallory]

If old movies are any guide, you take the handkerchief, shake it, stuff it into the pocket willy-nilly, then pat the pocket (see Clifton Webb as Waldo Lydecker in "Laura.")

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

Root, I think he meant EXACT matching, which I agree is a no-no. I like white, but often like pairing a tie with a pocket square that has some similar feature but which doesn't actually match. For instance, pairing a blue/light blue/white repp tie with a white handkerchief with a blue edge.

What I think looks really bad is where it looks as if the tie and pocket square were made out of the exact same bolt of material.

 

[Wild Root]

Well, I find that some of the highest priced uppity department stores sell matching handkerchiefs with some of their ties. They sold them in the 40's as well. They weren't worn by the average man or most bankers. It is something that I have seen work very well. I saw a photo of a friend's father from 1941 in original color. He had a very art deco tie on with a matching handkerchief. It looks so cool. As you all know that I love only vintage fashion and the prints and designs that came from those years. I feel that today what are being made to match don't really look that good. I do feel a matching polka dotted tie and handkerchief looks real good.

My dispute is that I wouldn't consider it a “no, no,� in correct fashion. I would say it's up to your own taste and flare.

Do what you want to do!


Root.

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

True, there is always room to break "the rules." Personally, I wouldn't do it simply because every time I have seen it done it looks rather forced. For instance, one time in a restaurant I saw a man at another table wearing a rather loud complex-pattern tie with a pocket square made out of identical material. It just looked pretty tacky in my opinion.

But you did bring up a more interesting issue. Namely, is it better to recreate the past fashions in sort of a reenactor sense or is it better to simply pick and choose what you think looks best?

There are several fashion trends in the "Golden Era" I simply don't think were good ideas and hence I don't use or wear them. I just pick and choose what I personally like best, and most often it ends up being something which is also historically accurate.

For instance, spread collars were not common in America during the period, yet I rather like them along with the Windsor knot from time to time. If I were to recreate the "1930's American" I would not be able to wear such a style without looking farby.

 

[Wild Root]

Good points there friend. I agree that some of the loud prints of modern ties with matching hankie looks dumb. But if it is a nice simple pattern tie with a hankie that matches the tie, it works. Like most styles, it has to be worn right. I on the other hand like just about every thing the 30's and 40's had to offer in the line of style. I love the young jitterbug influence of style in the 40's. I like the wide lapels, flashy hand painted ties, art deco prints, windowpane and pinstripes!

What it all boils down too is what you feel comfortable in. That's how men back then dressed, what they were comfortable in. Some men dressed real sharp, some didn't. Same with ladies! Not all women in those days were fit for the cover of LIFE.

I always try new looks that I find from the 40's. For some reason, I end up likeing them all.

For every day wear, it's a nice pair of gab slacks, gab shirt and some nice dark brown leather shoes. You don't know how many photos I have seen of men wearing just pants and a simple shirt around town. With a fedora

Root.

 

[Flyfisherman]

Is it customary to go through an insulting "trial period" around here, Wild Root? I've already been a fraternity pledge, thanks. Not interested in doing it again.

 

[Wild Root]

Is it customary to go through an insulting "trial period" around here, Wild Root? I've already been a fraternity pledge, thanks. Not interested in doing it again.

How do you mean? Did I insult you in any way?

Root.

 

[Flyfisherman]

"Well obviously who taught you that didn't know real haberdashery."

I would call that fairly insulting, especially for a first response to a first post.

And, for the record, I was making reference to scenarios as Vladimir described.

I suspect I've wandered into the wrong arena. Sorry to bother you chaps.

 

[Wild Root]

Oh that, well, if you took offence to that I'm sorry. There was no offence intended. I have been taught some bogus things before and when the correct info comes along, I take to it.

You are more then welcome here friend. No need leave.

Please, feel comfortable here it's just that I some times I can come off a little rough I guess. It's just when I read who taught you that matching tie and what ever was a “no, no� was some what narrow minded and wasn't an expert on different ways to accessorize one's ensemble. There is more then one proper way of doing things. I wanted to try and help you try new things and ideas.

Please don't take things I say the wrong way.

Root.