Half Belt History

[Mr Knight]

Hey folks,

Hope everyone is well and staying safe during the current pandemic.

I’m interested in the history of the half belt back design seen on a lot of civilian jackets from the past and frequently replicated by our favourite established jacket manufacturers.

Consequently I’m wondering how this design came in to fruition, my main understanding is that it allowed jackets to be constructed from multiple smaller leather pieces and this allowed manufacturers to better utilise their hide stock without requiring larger panels to be cut. Is this accurate? Or is there a practical reason for the design? I noticed that the side cinches sit higher on this style of jacket so pondered the idea that this allowed the ‘false belt’ to pull the jacket in at the back without causing the back to distort.

I’m aware I could just ask Aero etc directly but I respect that they’ll be busy dealing with phone/email sale enquiries and don’t want to hold them up during these current times. Plus I hope it’ll give us all something to discuss.

 

[Carlos840]

I am not sure how the half belt has anything to do with panel sizes. Leather saving with panel size was more to do with back designs like the sunburst and things like that.

To me the half belt itself is just an evolution of a belted coat.

Early on a lot of coats had full belts, then came on the removable belts, these coats had a belt in the back and buttons on the side for you to attach two removable belt pieces that would fasten in the front.

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=1471

The next logical evolutionary step would be to ditch the belts and add cinch buckles to the sides.

 

[Mr Knight]

I’m aware that jackets used to have belts but wondered why back belts were retained in the designs whilst cinches made the function of them pretty much redundant, other than just a case of being a ‘throwback’ fashion detail.

 

[Carlos840]

I’m aware that jackets used to have belts but wondered why back belts were retained in the designs whilst cinches made the function of them pretty much redundant, other than just a case of being a ‘throwback’ fashion detail.

I think the back belt was just kept cause it looks "right". It follows the body's natural proportions.
Compare these two, the side cinches are not even aligned with the belt, still IMO the belted one looks much better.

 

[Mr Knight]

You make a fair point, I did notice some jackets half belts and cinches didn’t align which put the ‘practical’ theory in doubt but thanks for clarifying.

IMO the standard generic half belts look a little odd to me as it almost looks like someone has cut the belt off, similar practice as opposed to tying the belt behind the back like you see on a lot of Belstaff jackets. None the less they do look very cool from a vintage (Sportclad etc). Subjectivity of different tastes I suppose.

To me the only designs that seem to blend the half belt in are the Dustbowl, Sunburst & Hooch Hauler from Aero as well as the Caboose & Sunrise from Freewheelers, the extra seams allowing the belt to not stand out as much.

 

[tmitchell59]

The half-belt is also referred to as a sewn in belt. When I think of it this way I see it as a structural piece; adding stiffness, strength, reinforcement, definition. Most early leather jackets were not made of heavy leather. To provide shape, sense of design, they used belts, multi piece backs. Plus it looks better!

I will search the Sears catalog for their earliest depiction.

 

[tmitchell59]

Half belt with gathered sides. This seems to go back to the WWII, maybe in relationship to military construction and lack of metal pieces. To me these work better than the strap and buckle. They really tailor the fit. Did not replace the strap system.

The classic Windward re-issued by Eastman has gathered sides. I have seen one that had the side strap set up.

This is a Horsehide Sierra leather. Probably a label used by one of the San Francisco bay area makers.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Hey folks,

Hope everyone is well and staying safe during the current pandemic.

I’m interested in the history of the half belt back design seen on a lot of civilian jackets from the past and frequently replicated by our favourite established jacket manufacturers.

Consequently I’m wondering how this design came in to fruition, my main understanding is that it allowed jackets to be constructed from multiple smaller leather pieces and this allowed manufacturers to better utilise their hide stock without requiring larger panels to be cut. Is this accurate? Or is there a practical reason for the design? I noticed that the side cinches sit higher on this style of jacket so pondered the idea that this allowed the ‘false belt’ to pull the jacket in at the back without causing the back to distort.

I’m aware I could just ask Aero etc directly but I respect that they’ll be busy dealing with phone/email sale enquiries and don’t want to hold them up during these current times. Plus I hope it’ll give us all something to discuss.

My understanding is the half-belt comes out of the fashion grammar of the early 20th century and was first seen in tweed and corduroy jackets. The look migrated across to leather. Most things you see in jackets are about period aesthetics or an attempt to freshen up a look or set it apart from another. And yes, sometimes choices are made to save on having to find larger pieces of leather. Of course then another problem occurs - extra effort and time putting a complex back together - such as the Sunburst look.

Not sure this is a period one but they were a 1920's-30's look.

 

[Webafile]

My understanding is the half-belt comes out of the fashion grammar of the early 20th century and was first seen in tweed and corduroy jackets. The look migrated across to leather. Most things you see in jackets are about period aesthetics or an attempt to freshen up a look or set it apart from another. And yes, sometimes choices are made to save on having to find larger pieces of leather. Of course then another problem occurs - extra effort and time putting a complex back together - such as the Sunburst look.

Not sure this is a period one but they were a 1920's-30's look.

View attachment 223455

Really like the look of that jacket. Do you know if it is still made?

 

[willyto]

Really like the look of that jacket. Do you know if it is still made?

Very few makers doing them nowadays and less doing them right. The vintage ones will cost you a fortune (They are the most desirable ones out there because new ones aren't as readily available)

You can buy them from Simon James Cathcart though as they have been reproducing them for few years now.

Those belted back jackets have been going on since early XXth century and can be found in Norfolk jackets and then only the back belt. They tailor the waist in and create a really nice silhouete.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Really like the look of that jacket. Do you know if it is still made?

Random internet photo. No idea.

 

[tmitchell59]

Nice 50s half-belt design by Ralphs-Pugh.