Hacking Jackets

[bookster1uk]

Who has hacking jackets or even hacking suits? Plain or tweed lets see em.

Mine finally. Real English Hacking Jacket

For possible interest, this is made in Derby Tweed, a very durable hard wearing cloth , and quite water resistant, it is rarely made of pure wool

 

[bookster1uk]

The ebay store, Bookster, is an excellent source of hacking jackets.


Lambourne also offers hacking jackets. While Sierra Trading Post frequently offers these, currently they are not available.

As well as our own Bookster range, we offer select vintage hacking jackets via our eBay store, we are very careful how we use the term, you'll find the oddest jackets described as hacking jackets and even suits on the Bay by some sellers.
Sadly I think Lambourne are now history, we've had a a few deadstock ones but they don't show up often, so if Sierra come up with any more they are worth grabbing

 

[handlebar bart]

I got my Lambourne hacking jacket at Sierra Trading Post a few years back and I love it.

 

[Levallois]

What is a hacking jacket?

I've seen this type of jacket referred to in some posts but with no real definition. What activities, events, etc. would one wear a hacking jacket? Thank you for your time.

John

 

[Flitcraft]

Hacking Jackers Are For...

1) Riding in rough areas- think hills and dales- not downtown Detroit- in a stylish manner

2) Looking like you ride in rough areas in a stylish manner

Hacking jackets are distinguished from dressage or hunting jackets by their fabric- usually tweed and their slanted, flapped pockets. Some feature double vents, but many are single-vented.

Sean Connery wears a hacking jacket in the post-golf scenes of Goldfinger.

Evelyn Waugh makes a reference to how declasse Sebastiasn looks when he sports one while everyone else is more formally dressed in Brideshead Revisited. Sebastian is "dressing down" so he can escape to the local pub and not draw too much attention to his appearance.

 

[draws]

What Worn With?

Also the hacking jacket is normally worn with a Shirt and tie, a fawn, doeskin or tatersall vest, tan or buff riding breeches and boots.

 

[Edward_Lindey]

Anyone have any pictures of a set up like this?

Edward

 

[Barrelhouse]

Yup, traditionally in hunt seat its a split tailed blazer usually made of tweed worn for pleasure riding as opposed to the hunt club blazer worn to hounds or other specialty riding outfits. Pleasure riding is about the only mounted endeavor that doesn't have a specific uniform so there are a lot of variations possible for a hack jacket in as far as cut and color goes. Worn with riding pants and either high riding boots (any english type but hunting) or more likely with jodhpur shoes.

These days its usually just a close fitted tweed blazer marketed mainly by firms like Ralph Lauren. I rode english seat as a kid and don't remember ever seeing anyone in America actually wear a hacking jacket to "hack", just to look stylish to and from the barn.

 

[Tomasso]

From the archives.

http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=12641

 

[Lone_Ranger]

1) Riding in rough areas- think hills and dales- not downtown Detroit- in a stylish manner

2) Looking like you ride in rough areas in a stylish manner

Hacking jackets are distinguished from dressage or hunting jackets by their fabric- usually tweed and their slanted, flapped pockets. Some feature double vents, but many are single-vented.

Sean Connery wears a hacking jacket in the post-golf scenes of Goldfinger.

Evelyn Waugh makes a reference to how declasse Sebastiasn looks when he sports one while everyone else is more formally dressed in Brideshead Revisited. Sebastian is "dressing down" so he can escape to the local pub and not draw too much attention to his appearance.

I'd add two things; the Hacking Jacket, would also be tailored to fit a little closer than say, a shooting jacket, or regular sports coat. So that, it does not flap in the wind, as you ride. (think motorcycle jacket) And, the button stance is such that you would be comfortable, in a sitting position, with all the buttons fastened.

 

[Big Bertie]

Here is one of my vintage hacking jackets. It is a ginger harris tweed. You will notice the hacking jacket is fairly long which is the traditional style to have more of a skirt, as a lot of the catologues put it.

To quantify this, it was fora photo shoot, although I have been having the odd riding lesson so I can wear my vintage riding kit.

Kindest Regards

Ben

Ben, I'm impressed by your turn-out - at first glance, I took the photograph itself to be vintage. I like the breeches! I've been riding for 12 years or so, and try to take some trouble over my own kit too, but it's a fine line.

I've enjoyed this thread. Anyone looking for a proper hacking jacket might consider Mears of Walsall - they made a heavyweight one for me last autumn which I'm very pleased with. I'll post a photo when I can.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

Would this be considered a hacking jacket?

Reading this thread, I found the descriptions eerily reminiscent of this jacket. Harris Tweed, 3 button, high stance, ticket pocket, long tails, center vent, etc.

 

[Tomasso]

Would this be considered a hacking jacket?

Nope, it lacks the slanted/angled pockets.

 

[Evan Everhart]

Also a typical English hacking jacket or any English tweed for that matter would never have leather buttons, only horn. It seems that you're dressed a bit like Jeremy Brett's Sherlock Holmes in his country get up. Yes? Fun-fun. Love that show and its Exceptional wardrobe and production values!

 

[Evan Everhart]

I ride frequently and have several hacking jackets for varieties sake, I must agree that a few characteristics define this elegant and imminently functional garment; chiefly its hacked pockets (which is part of why it is called a hacking jacket, the pocket flaps are diagonally positioned), it's high arm-holes (for greater bodily dexterity as the garment will not be displaced by arm movements), long skirted tails, and its single vented tails (so that the coat's skirts/tails lay elegantly and cover the legs properly when mounted on the horse). Beyond the just listed details, we arrive at the negotiable details, such as material (usually tweed of some sort), usually three button closure in the front, sometimes belted and paneled in the back, and sometimes having a ticket pocket (which was a later addition to the garment as people who lived in the city but wanted convenience and to show off that they did travel to the country would have a ticket pocket placed on their new hacking jackets) the ticket pocket is not a necessity nor even ubiquitous, but simply a 50/50 likelihood.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

Also a typical English hacking jacket or any English tweed for that matter would never have leather buttons, only horn. It seems that you're dressed a bit like Jeremy Brett's Sherlock Holmes in his country get up. Yes? Fun-fun. Love that show and its Exceptional wardrobe and production values!

You hit the nail right on the head! That's exactly what I was going for; I put this outfit together specifically as an homage to Brett's portrayal of Holmes. I actually had a pair of tight fitting leather gloves to complete the look, but I forgot to wear them for the photo! Ah well. Thanks for saying I reminded you of Holmes, I consider it a compliment!

And yes, the wardrobe work on the Granada series was absolutely superb. I'm still intensely desiring a frock coat like Holmes's from the series. Someday...

 

[Evan Everhart]

I also am an immense fan of that series, of Brett's work in general, and especially of the imminently lavish wardrobe of that exceptional series! A True Masterpiece on all accounts! Good show on that! I personally rather fancy a frock coat of the type worn by the young solicitor or barrister or whatever he was exactly (I've not read the book in a while and haven't watched the episode in two months) but yes, the frock coat of the young lawyer in the Norwood Builder episode. Dashed Good Frock-Coat! Of course, I am always a fond admirer of Holmes' ascetic aesthetic within the purview of that series anyway.....But yes. By the by, what state are you in, and what is your coat size, by way of chest size I suppose? I may have something which you might be interested in, depending upon your chest size....Anyhow, talk to you later old fellow. By the by, what do you think of the juxtaposition of Brett's Holmes with Winchester's?

 

[Two Types]

Following discussions in the 'Show Us Your Sports Coats' thread on the subject of what constitutes a 'Paddock Jacket', I did some research through newspaper archives to see what I could find. The term 'paddock jacket/suit' or 'turf suit' which seems to have been used in the USA and Germany appears to have come into fashion in the late 1930s, as what appears to be a mainstream fashion derivation from equestrian wear. However, searches through newspaper archives don't show the term 'paddock jacket' used in that period in the UK. Instead, a paddock coat appears to have been an overcoat-length waterproof riding coat of the 1890s and early 1900s.
It appears that in the late 1920s and early 1930s there was a sudden revival in horse riding in the UK. Reasons given for this included the idea that the arrival of the motor-car meant that the middle classes (no longer walking as much as they used to) took up riding for exercise:

1930:

1933:

It reached Dundee in 1935:

As reported in 1934, this revival in equestrian activity led to a surge in demand for riding clothes, meaning that riding clothes such as hacking jackets became increasingly popular and were increasingly seen in urban environments:

My theory would be this: The 1930s fashion for horse riding meant an increase in the general wearing of equestrian fashions in the UK. The main element of this was the high-fastening, two button, waisted, vented and skirted hacking jackets (worn by men and women alike). These were the inspiration for the turf/paddock suits which became fashionable in the USA and Germany.

 

[Two Types]

Here are some 1930s adverts for hacking jackets:
This is from 1938:

1935:

1937:

One of the areas under discussion was the suitability of double vents on riding coats, with it being suggested that single vents were more popular on authentic riding jackets. However, it appears that double vents were popular for UK riding fashions in 1935, with this being recommended to ladies as being the man's style of vents:

In 1934 we see hacking jackets described as being cut longer than a sports jacket, with two long side vents, three outside pockets with flaps, with the two skirt pockets being cut in a half moon:

 

[Fastuni]

Great research and convincing argument TT.