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Guide Master by Wolf Outerwear?

Hidebound

New in Town
Messages
22
So I recently bought a FQHH jacket and this is the label in the jacket. I'm kind of curious because googling "Wolf Outerwear" brings up a couple of jackets for sale, but very little about the company itself. Since this site has people who know a lot about the history of clothing in the golden era, I figured I would ask here. Does anyone know anything about the origin of this jacket?

 

Peter Bowden

Practically Family
Messages
606
Location
united kingdom
I recently bought this.....En route.It is very similar to a Fidelity jacket in Rin Tanaka's book though the chest pocket angle is slightly different.It is possible that Fidelity made Guide Master or vice-versa.I know that it won't fit me but this is a weird hobby........
 

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tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,749
Location
Illinois
I start by saying I don't know about the Brand/Label, but would like to know too. I've many of their jackets on ebay and they always look like quality. One of my favorite labels!

Boston area was a hub of leather tanning and leather industry. I'm reading a book on Peabody MA Leather industry.

@Gamma68 has been uncovering some information on different makers. He has identified Rich-Sher out of St. Louis, Lawrence out of Peabody.

Was Wolf a maker or label? I don't know. I do know that makers used their own name label and created other labels, or put in store labels. Gets confusing.
 

Gamma68

One Too Many
Messages
1,936
Location
Detroit, MI
The first newspaper reference I can find for Wolf Outwear Company is from Feb. 15, 1951. The company was located at 1165 Tremont Street, Boston MA. They advertised for stitchers and experienced pocket makers.

A man named Harry Wolf appears to have been the company owner.

In Oct. 1951, Wolf Outerwear advertised for stitchers of cloth and leather jackets.

In 1946, this address was the location of the Boston White Uniform Company. It advertised for cotton and rayon stitchers.

In 1948, a company called Wales Weatherproofs also occupied this address. They advertised for stitchers of cotton gabardine.

Another company called Jackets Limited was at this address in 1953.

The sense I get is multiple companies shared a large manufacturing facility at this address. Don't know if they were all related or separate entities.

In Feb. 1963, Wolf Outerwear was sold:

Paley_buys_Wolf_Outerwear__Boston__page-0001.jpg

The last reference I find for Wolf Outerwear is a 1965 ad for leather and suede stitchers. By this time the company was located at 137 Forsythe St., 3rd floor.

Based on this information, looks like it's safe to say Wolf Outerwear existed from 1951-1965.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,731
Location
Iowa
Intersting that this was all found. I actually had two of them, courtosy of Kosay last year, however moved both along as they were really too small and needing a lot of work to be wearable jacket agian. One had a blue heavy wool tweed lining, in pretty rough shape. It's not in the threads below. The other one had the quilted lining and was wearable.

One thread on it: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/quick-sale-guide-master-wolf-horsehide-perfecto.93271/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...cross-zip-horsehide-jacket-apx-size-40.93331/
 

Hidebound

New in Town
Messages
22
Intersting that this was all found. I actually had two of them, courtosy of Kosay last year, however moved both along as they were really too small and needing a lot of work to be wearable jacket agian. One had a blue heavy wool tweed lining, in pretty rough shape. It's not in the threads below. The other one had the quilted lining and was wearable.

One thread on it: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/quick-sale-guide-master-wolf-horsehide-perfecto.93271/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...cross-zip-horsehide-jacket-apx-size-40.93331/

Those jackets are really nice! The one I have is a civvie production A-2 as far as I can tell (it has hand warmer pockets anyway) but I have to admit I would like to eventually snag one of these double riders too. They have that classic glamor after all.
 

regius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,300
Location
New York
The horsehide raw material label (not the Wolf label) is shared among many makers, so supposedly it is from the same tannery, as a “branded” horsehide. I wonder if it’s the same tannery as the one whose label is a thin, rectangular shape as appears on the Excelled jackets & Campus label jackets.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,731
Location
Iowa
There are a couple of these on ebay with the Quilted lining, and over $600 price right now. Pretty steep for a maker that is largely un-known, but some decent quality in them.
 

Howard Byer

New in Town
Messages
4
So I recently bought a FQHH jacket and this is the label in the jacket. I'm kind of curious because googling "Wolf Outerwear" brings up a couple of jackets for sale, but very little about the company itself. Since this site has people who know a lot about the history of clothing in the golden era, I figured I would ask here. Does anyone know anything about the origin of this jacket?

This is Simon Wolf my grandfather. He and his nephew Harry (junior partner) opened in the 1940's and operated Wolf Outerwear in Boston Massachusetts until my grandfather retired in '61 or '62. Harry bought and continued to run the business until it was sold to Bert Paley. Most of the info in this feed seems correct. The story I was told was that my grandfather had worked for other companies prior to opening his own factory and designed many of their coats himself. I remember hearing that over time he quietly took some of his designs as well as a few customers prior to leaving which they weren't too happy about. I'm not exactly sure when Wolf Outerwear opened, I'll try to find out, but I know they made bomber jackets for the second world war.
My mother worked for a short time in the office doing payroll. Her older brother Melvin worked there as well but after graduating from Harvard Business school decide to go a different way.
As a young child I remember getting on the elevator to go up to the cutting floor to be measured as my cousins and I all had small leather jackets of every color.
0312202350.jpg
Finally, the leather jackets prized by collectors today are still considered one of the best leather jackets ever manufactured and I believe a white motorcycle jacket from Wolf Outerwear sold at auction in Japan and holds the record for the highest price ever paid.
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,731
Location
Iowa
^^ Great information Howard! Welcome to Fedora lounge, and so good to actually hear from a close relative (grandson) of the founder of Wolf Leathers. Really wish I would have kept the two that I once had in my possession, I would have simply sent them to you if you desired.
 

Howard Byer

New in Town
Messages
4
^^ Great information Howard! Welcome to Fedora lounge, and so good to actually hear from a close relative (grandson) of the founder of Wolf Leathers. Really wish I would have kept the two that I once had in my possession, I would have simply sent them to you if you desired.
TY, I have a few but much appreciated.
 

Hidebound

New in Town
Messages
22
Wow, thank you for responding, Howard! I’m glad to know something about this jacket from such a reputable source.
 

BoDeen427

New in Town
Messages
27
Location
Owensboro, Ky USA
This is Simon Wolf my grandfather. He and his nephew Harry (junior partner) opened in the 1940's and operated Wolf Outerwear in Boston Massachusetts until my grandfather retired in '61 or '62. Harry bought and continued to run the business until it was sold to Bert Paley. Most of the info in this feed seems correct. The story I was told was that my grandfather had worked for other companies prior to opening his own factory and designed many of their coats himself. I remember hearing that over time he quietly took some of his designs as well as a few customers prior to leaving which they weren't too happy about. I'm not exactly sure when Wolf Outerwear opened, I'll try to find out, but I know they made bomber jackets for the second world war.
My mother worked for a short time in the office doing payroll. Her older brother Melvin worked there as well but after graduating from Harvard Business school decide to go a different way.
As a young child I remember getting on the elevator to go up to the cutting floor to be measured as my cousins and I all had small leather jackets of every color.
View attachment 220228 Finally, the leather jackets prized by collectors today are still considered one of the best leather jackets ever manufactured and I believe a white motorcycle jacket from Wolf Outerwear sold at auction in Japan and holds the record for the highest price ever paid.

Hello,
Interesting information about the family business. I was wondering if you are knowledgeable about the vintage leather jacket business? I recently bought a very nice horsehide Guidemaster by Wolf motorcycle jacket with a heavy leather kidney protector riveted in. I would like to sell or trade the jacket because it is too small for me, this jacket fits like a small, but I think it might be somewhat rare because I've seen several for sale over the last several months but have never seen one with the optional kidney protector. It's from the 40s or 50s, not sure, it appears to have the 40s style Talon main zipper with Talon sleeve zips and Talon diamond pull pocket zippers. I'm not sure what it would sell for but I'm thinking it's worth a fair amount. Would you give me your opinion please?
Thank you....
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,731
Location
Iowa
Cool. I supplied a very ragged one of these to Fontenelle Supply Co in Des Moines to hang on the wall. It needed a full re-line and much more work. It was also too small for me. Leather looked ok but was not excellent - just pretty rough shape. I actually got it on (once) and took fit photos:https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...you-wearing-today.82949/page-457#post-2398044

It actually sold shortly after I handed it over to them.

I had two of these - sold the other one. Here is the one I sold: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...cross-zip-horsehide-jacket-apx-size-40.93331/
 

BoDeen427

New in Town
Messages
27
Location
Owensboro, Ky USA
Yes I remember seeing these pictures awhile back, I almost forgot. The first pics of you wearing it looks like it's squeezing you, those shoulder gussets look like they're stretched to the max, lol, but the horsehide on these Guidemasters feels bulletproof, I really like the leather, that's why I hate to sell it. I'm going to take some pics of mine and post them afterwhile, I can get it on and zip it if I inhale completely but I can't move around much. I'd say it might fit a 36" chest or maybe even a 38", I'll measure it while I'm at it...
 

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