Greetings and my new (old) G-1

[Gamma68]

Hi everyone,

I've lurked at this forum off and on for a few years and this is my first post.

Lately, I've wanted to acquire a military-style leather jacket. The A-1, A-2 and G-1 have all captured my interest. Instead of agonizing over which model to buy, I see many people end up with at least one A-2 and one G-1. Since it's colder in the upper Midwest, I opted for a G-1 as my first jacket. Here's a link to the eBay auction I won:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NAVY-G-1-Flight-Jacket-42-M-Medium-Brown-MIL-J-7823D-WP-/332032789688?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&nma=true&si=m1BB7p%2FjmEogxJAYqs7jgRgbboQ%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

It's a 1968 G-1 by Martin Lane. I've learned a lot by reading through the various threads here and hope I've made a good, solid purchase. It seems that G-1s through the late 1960s are among the more desirable ones, as they have authentic mouton collars and are without the "squeaky" treated leather that came thereafter.

The leather looks good and the seller says it is supple with no cracks or holes. He also says the white spots came out (after the auction photos were posted) with some leather cleaner/conditioner. I hope this is true and he didn't negatively impact the leather. My thought was to just clean it using a soft sponge with lukewarm water and perhaps a little Ivory soap (mild and gentle).

The wrist and waist bands appear to be in pretty good shape for its age without excessive wear. The seller says the zipper functions properly, but one of the pocket buttons is missing. I assume matching buttons are readily available.

I'm interested in learning more about the collar, which I hope is mouton. I can't recall seeing one with a light brown tinge. Most seem to be either rust brown or very dark brown/black. Is the collar on mine authentic mouton or something else?

I'd appreciate your feedback. Photos to come upon its arrival.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Technonut]

I didn't see any measurements in the listing. Did you contact the seller for them before pulling the trigger? Actual measurements can vary widely, and aren't always what the tag states.

The collar looks to be mouton to me, since you wouldn't get a color change like that from sun exposure with synthetic. The goatskin looks good, and should provide many years of wear...

 

[Gamma68]

I'm afraid I didn't ask for measurements. I assumed some degree of uniformity in terms of sizing (I guess incorrectly).

The listing offers a 14-day return policy, so if there are significant fit issues, I can always return it.

Fingers crossed that it fits well. Hope I didn't get snookered.

 

[Technonut]

I'm afraid I didn't ask for measurements. I assumed some degree of uniformity in terms of sizing (I guess incorrectly).

The listing offers a 14-day return policy, so if there are significant fit issues, I can always return it.

Fingers crossed that it fits well. Hope I didn't get snookered.

Hopefully, it will fit you well. Many eBay sellers do not know how to properly measure garments anyhow, but for future purchases, know your size and look for these measurements: Armpit to armpit (jacket zipped, laid-flat), sleeve length (top sleeve seam, following the curve of the arm, to the end of knit cuff), across shoulders, and length (from the collar seam, down to the end of the knit waistband).

PayPal has been offering free return shipping on eBay purchases (I think until the end of December). If you don't have it activated, may be something to look into..

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks for the tips. I've purchased plenty of clothing items off eBay and almost always check measurements. I just assumed (mistakenly, apparently) that a size 42 would actually be accurate. I should have know better, having some experience with old U.S. Navy pea coats.

I wasn't aware of the free return shipping via PayPal. I'll check into that.

My biggest concern is those white spots on the leather and what the seller did to remove them (if they are, indeed, removed). I hope the leather isn't compromised.

Assuming the leather is fine and it fits, did I pay a fair price?

 

[El Marro]

Congratulations on you new (old) G-1!
I think you paid a very fair price for this one. I paid more than twice as much for a 1969 D series G-1 made by Star Sportswear and considered myself lucky to get it.
I wouldn't be too worried about the leather cleaner which the seller used on the jacket. In my experience the goatskin on these old navy jackets is practically bulletproof.
Finally, I hope the coat fits you well. I have found that the action back and underarm gussets make the G-1 fit far more forgiving and comfortable to wear than many A-2's of the same size.

 

[Marv]

I also have a 1968 Martin Lane G1 in a labeled size 46 however, this contract notoriously runs small so my jacket has the measurements and fits like a size 44.

Hopefully you will be in look and your jacket fits you well as it looks like a real nice one, love the golden mouton colour too.

Good luck

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks, El Marro and Marv, for your replies. I feel reassured about the leather's condition.

Your responses raise a couple other questions. Is the collar fading on the one I purchased considered undesirable or does it add "character" and a unique "patina"? I haven't seen another G-1 with a golden/tan collar. Is this fading due to direct sunlight? If so, it must have seen a lot of sun exposure. Based on the seller's photos, I don't see any remnants of darker areas on the collar.

As far as fit, do these jackets allow a certain amount of "stretch" over time? In other words, if the fit is snug, will it eventually stretch a bit to accommodate a good fit?

I've only had some experience with old U.S. Navy pea coats and the M-65 field coat. The M-65s seem very consistent in sizing, which led to my thought that the G-1 would share a similar consistency. Apples and oranges, I guess.

Prior to my eBay purchase, I found a couple G-1s in a local vintage clothing shop. Both were from the 1970s, and one of them was a Schott. The sizes were 40 and 44. The 40 was definitely small, and the 44 was somewhat large. I also had my spouse take my chest measurement with a tailor's measuring tape and that's how I determined a size 42 would probably fit best.

I'm very much looking forward to receiving it and sharing photos and impressions once it arrives.

 

[Peacoat]

Martin Lane made a very nice G-1. The mouton collar has faded, which adds a bunch of character to the jacket. As El Marro said above, the goatskin on these old jackets is tough; I wouldn't worry about it. When you get the jacket, give it a treatment of Picard leather conditioner, if it hasn't been recently treated (you should be able to tell). If you don't have Pecard on hand, it can be ordered online. If you wear a size 40 or 42 this jacket should fit you. A 40 will be a tighter fit, but still manageable. Congratulations; A good score with a very good price.

Oh, and welcome to the Lounge. PC

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks, Peacoat.

I have some Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner. I use it on my nice dress shoes. Is Lexol OK or is Pecard superior?

 

[Tommy-VF51]

I found Pecards to be excellent, if requiring a fare amount of patience to let it actually do its work? We only have a very small flat/ apartment, so I don't really have room to leave it out, but on the one occasion I've used it, it worked wonders? I made the mistake recently it using a saphir moisturising cream and it had left some white patches where it didn't completely absorb.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but even with Pecards it's an occasional only treatment, right? If I wanna buff a jacket up a little, am I right in thinking I'm better with just a decent soft shoe brush?

I have a Ralph Edwards from 1970, though yours is a nicer jacket I recon, particularly with the proper Moulton collar. The leather however looks similar and I wouldn't want to overtreat it, since there's already something of a coating to the leather as it is?

 

[Peacoat]

I use Lexol on leather tack and Pecard on the leather jackets, but only infrequently. Most of my leather jackets have never been treated. I suggested he might want to treat because the seller used something to remove the spots, and it is an old jacket. I have a 1962 Irvin B. Foster G-1 I have never treated, and the goat still feels supple. It will probably need a Pecard treatment sometime during the next 54 years, though.

 

[El Marro]

I think that the faded collar definitely adds something to the jacket and shows that it is truly a vintage piece. The "E " series of G-1 that followed used an artificial Dynal collar which does not fade with age.
Regarding you question about fit and stretching, I do not think there is much give in these jackets. The goatskin on both of my originals is fairly rigid. It's not stiff exactly, but there is very little flex in it.
I agree with Peacoat that a coat of Pecards is often a good first step when you receive a vintage jacket. Both of my G-1s were noticeably dry when I got them. After a light coat of Pecards, and a couple days to let it fully absorb, they were ready to wear.
Happy Thanksgiving everybody!

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks, gentlemen. It seems that the Pecard "Antique Leather Dressing" is the right stuff for a jacket of this vintage. So how much should I purchase for proper treatment? Pecard offers containers from .75 oz to 32 oz. I'm not sure how far this stuff goes or how many applications might be needed.

Of course, I'll wait to check the jacket fit before I purchase some Pecards.

 

[El Marro]

A little Pecards goes a long way and it is not something you need to apply often once the jacket has been treated. I would buy a small container to begin with, probably the 6 oz. one.

 

[Marv]

As mention, the faded mouton collar shade definately adds to the jacket, on my ML it is roughly the same shade as your but you can see the various degrees of fading from the inside of the mouton at the neck line outwards as it has faded over time.

I agree with the peacards but only if it needs it, i didn't need to apply anything to mine as the leather was good (as to whether peacards had been applied at any point in the past before I took ownership of the jacket i don't know).

I have an approx 1958 LW Foster G1 in mint condition and the goatskin has never been treated and still looks beautiful, lovely and supple so goes to show, the older G1s are superior in quality to the jackets produced after 1970-71.

 

[Gamma68]

The jacket has arrived!

After spending a few minutes with it, I'm feeling pleased. I think the fit is pretty good (my understanding is that G-1s are supposed to have a close fit, like wearing a sweater. I've attached fit pics for comment. For reference, I'm 5-9 and 157 lbs.

I was pleased to find that it has an interior pocket and a leather throat latch (if that's the correct term) under the collar.

Although the white spots seem lighter, they are NOT removed, as the seller had stated. I'll wipe it down gently with a sponge, but I'd love some advice on how to clean it properly (I have some Lexol cleaner, if that will suffice) before applying some Pecards antique leather dressing. The leather feels like it might need some nourishment and to my eye looks a little dirty (as if it sat in a dusty spot for a period of time).

I'd also like some advice on how to clean the lining, mouton collar and wool knit cuffs/waistband. I'd like to keep moths away, and I have no idea where this jacket has been.

The zipper works, but isn't all that smooth. What treatment could help with this?

Lastly, an exterior pocket button is missing. Any sources for a "correct" button? Or should I just visit a local fabric store to find a match?

 

[Stand By]

It's a perfect fit! Bulls-eye.
What a score for $102! I love the collar, too.
Oh, and welcome to the Lounge!!!

And as for the white spots, if they won't come off, they could be painted out - very carefully - with acrylic paint. Easy. And that's the only tiny flaw with your jacket as it's a complete score. Bravo!

 

[daw]

I wish that any one of my G1's would fit so well! Perfect. Congrats.
If I could get a "L" that looked liked that I would jump on it.

 

[bn1966]

I like that jacket very much...great score