Goodwear Acme 38-1711-P

[HighandDry]

I met John a while ago when he wasn't quite so busy. He actually took time out and I met him at his house where he does all his work. It was fascinating to see how an one man operation works! Talking with him, you can really see how passionate he is about what he does and the workmanship of his jackets. At that time, he took all my measurements and we discussed what type of jacket I wanted.

I told him that I was always wary of A2's, since most of them looked so baggy to me. Later on, he mentioned that he started doing the 1938 Aero design and mentioned that it was a much slimmer cut and thought it would be a good cut for me.

Overall, I'm very happy with the jacket. I love the seal brown leather and esp the berry knits. The only question I had was I thought the back was a little too short. John offered to re-do the jacket, but I grew to like the period high waisted look and I think that it's one of the reasons the jacket doesn't blouse up on me.

The jacket is definitely very snug fitting, but I'm able to put a very light sweater underneath it.

Sorry about the pics, I know they are not JanSolo quality! When the weather changes, I'll try to post some better pics.

 

[ButteMT61]

Interesting. I thought the '38 was russet only? And yes, my opinion (maybe worth less than the usual 2¢) is that it's too short. Nice jacket, but I'd get a mulligan on it and have one longer built if it were me. Can you tell me which number the HH is? All of his now have an identifier...

Thanks for posting.

 

[Dodo]

Really nice jacket!! interesting this A2 slimmer cut!

 

[bretron]

Pm me if you're interested in a trade or sale. I got a gw 39 Werber that's too big for me. And your jacket is kinda like my dream gw- just sayin

 

[HighandDry]

@Bretron- I'll keep that in mind BTW, the sugarcane shirt fits great! This is tagged a 40, but I'm sure it's snugger than your Werber.

@Butte- Yeah in a perfect world, it would be a inch longer, but it really doesn't bother me too much. The only thing is if you sit down, the knit flops over the belt and you have to pull it down. My fashion trio (wife, friend who use to work for Nordstrom, and assistant) all think it looks great and I am somewhat of a slave to fashion . My buddy says it looks "tight"- whatever that means!

The pics earlier show a pair of jeans with a little lower rise than my other jeans and work pants. I've enclosed some pics with a jean with a little higher rise.

I think the front length is perfect

However, you can see the front is significantly longer than the back. I don't know if it's contract specific or if my jacket turned out that way. I believe the original contract was russet/brown, but I wasn't really looking for an absolute historical repro.

In terms of the leather number, I have no idea. It was John's dark seal from Japan that was initially meant for "The Few" in New Zealand.

 

[ButteMT61]

Let's say this. The jacket is beautiful, I just don't fall into the "fashion" style of tight and short, which seems to be "in" now. My son is a model and has done a lot of work in the last six months. That's the style. Me, I'm 50 and a big guy. Doesn't work for me, although I am better now that I dumped some poundage.
If you like it, and your style council approves, then it's great. Not trying to persuade you otherwise. I just posted pics of my new HWM, and it's seen as too large by at least one guy, so we're in a similar boat lol
Enjoy it, it's a sweet jacket, and made by the best.

 

[bretron]

@Bretron- I'll keep that in mind BTW, the sugarcane shirt fits great!

dude, you have no idea how happy it makes me to know that SC red chambray went to a good home. An insanely rad shirt IMO. On the other hand, if that fit you perfectly, there's no way in H E Double Hockey Sticks your 38 Aero is gonna fit me!!!!

If you ever wanna meet up on the east side- escape our wives and kids and talk all things manly like jackets and jeans - PM me. I could use an extra pint of Elysian right about now- haha

Cheers

 

[bretron]

Also FWIW I think it looks like a good fit- if you don't feel awkward wearing it, it probably fits! That's my litmus test

 

[HighandDry]

LOL yeah, we'll have to go out some time Bretron!

I told my wife that this was my favorite jacket, but she reminded me that I always say that! I'll have to see if it stands the test of time and wether the shorter length starts to bother me

 

[EmergencyIan]

Wow...John really does have some "Seal" colored horsehide, now! It looks great!

Very nice jacket, by the way.

- Ian

 

[oldcrow82]

Beautiful work, John really is an artist, an that hide looks stellar too. My opinion is this, the jacket does look a bit short, but it is my understanding (and gripe with the A2) that's how it is supposed to fit. Tight and short which is what I think you have there.
I think with the higher waisted jeans the fit does look better maybe some LVC 44's? I think that's what John wears in all of his fit pics for his site. Those jeans always look right with his A2's.

 

[Grayland]

I'm an A2 novice, but I feel the contrast between the dark leather and the much lighter berry knits make it appear even shorter than it actually is.

 

[ButteMT61]

A-2's are not "supposed to fit" short and tight. It's a myth that continues to live on. Simply put, go out and look for pics of WWII era servicemen in their jackets. Some may have had a tight/short/baggy jacket, but that's 'cause they were handed out like boots. You gets what you gets. Again, not dissing H&D's jacket as he likes it that way, but A-2's are not by their nature supposed to be like a glove.

 

[Jaguar66]

I am in the same camp as Butte. I can't help but feel you would feel more comfortable if you had a longer, and slightly looser fitting jacket, like these WWII fellas in these pictures of actual WWII personel in their A2 jackets, (these are posted on Johns site). Just my opinion.

http://www.goodwearleather.com/photos/Proper_A2_Fit.jpg

 

[bretron]

@HighandDry, How does it measure out?

 

[HighandDry]

I believe it all comes down to personal taste and body type. I'm 5'10" 160 lbs, waist 31, chest 40 and a larger/looser jacket looks like a bag on me. Any off the shelf A2 always fit terrible on me, because the mid-section was always huge and had a large amount of blousing.

In terms of what they wore in WWII, that really doesn't concern me. As I said earlier, I wasn't really looking to get a historical replication, I just wanted a jacket that fit me well (as per my definition). However, this jacket is very true to the original contract dimensions. This 38 Aero (according to John) was a very slim fit and higher waisted model. I have zero issues with the general fit of the jacket, but I could do with an extra inch in the back

I also like skinny selvedge jeans, fitted shirts, and think that pleats should not be allowed, but hey that's me

In terms of measurements pit to pit 21.5 (same as my Aero 30's halfbelt), back length 22.5, sleeve 24.75.

 

[bretron]

22.5" back length must not include the knit, correct? If so, about 25" in length, which seems right (I'm 5'10" too), but if 22.5 includes the knit, DAMN!

You got me seriously considering this contract but in a 42 (and maybe an extra inch and a half in length :lol

 

[Jeff M]

FWIW, it does look a bit short and snug to me.
Bottom line is, get something you are happy with.

 

[Jeff M]

A-2's are not "supposed to fit" short and tight. It's a myth that continues to live on. Simply put, go out and look for pics of WWII era servicemen in their jackets. Some may have had a tight/short/baggy jacket, but that's 'cause they were handed out like boots. You gets what you gets. Again, not dissing H&D's jacket as he likes it that way, but A-2's are not by their nature supposed to be like a glove.

Yep.
A2s were a piece of military equipment in set sizes specified by the US Army Air Corp...not custom made fashion items. You got what you got that "fit" so you could do your job.
Pilots et. al. wore shirts/flight suits under their A2s, and had be able to move around unimpeded while wearing them. I suspect "a bit baggy" was the norm rather than "skin tight and short".

A problem with "authentic" modern re-creations of this design is that our phsiques have changed fairly dramatically since WWII. Not to mention these were designed to fit young men in good physical condition rather than middle aged men who could stand to loose 20 or 30 lbs. :lol:

 

[HighandDry]

LOL yeah 22.5" includes the knits! Definitely on the short side