Goatskin vs Horse Hide

[jonesy86]

I keep coming back to goat. I have a Shinki horsehide Brakeman and it’s very soft and pliable, but it’s a little thick for smarter wear in my view. I have a deerskin Journeyman on its way, which should drape really well, but I’ve asked Dave Sheeley to use goat for a ‘20s Monarch replica.

A Dave Sheeley Goatskin Monarch eh? More info please.

 

[Dr H]

I had a Freewheelers Dust Bowl (a 42 in auburn), which I was reluctant to sell, but it was a size too small so I had to sell it on. It was very unlikely that I'd get another in a larger size so I decided to approach Dave to copy one (having seen his Switchyard replica on here). It transpired that the pattern is based on a pre-war Monarch, so we went through Dave's collection of jackets and images and he worked up a pattern for me to fit my dimensions.
I wanted a close copy (French seams, 5 button fastening, slightly tapered silhouette, welted waist pockets), but not an exact one - I wasn't so keen on the collar knit and I wanted a two-piece back like the Brakeman.
So, Dave has assembled the parts for the build: the French goatskin has been dyed to match a Gordon and Ferguson M-422A that I liked (in a warm brown tone), a selection of brown deco Colt Amerhurst buttons, twill sleeve lining and moleskin pocket lining to match in period Monarch colours, and a coarse houndstooth lining in a red/green/brown combination.
I've always liked the Perry A-2 collar pattern on the 23377 with rounded tips and so I've asked Dave to add one of these, but with a shallower collar stand than on the Journeyman (and omitting the throat latch or tab); it'll have a zig zag stitch pattern and parallel stitches underneath, like an AN-J-3.
It's practically a Monarch, so Dave will add one of his Monarch labels.
The build is imminent (after the Christmas holiday) and it has been a real pleasure to work with Dave - in depth discussion about planning, detailed research undertaken, rapid responses to e-mailed questions, plenty of images during the planning stages.
I'll post images next month.

 

[tmitchell59]

View attachment 150265 I had a Freewheelers Dust Bowl (a 42 in auburn), which I was reluctant to sell, but it was a size too small so I had to sell it on. It was very unlikely that I'd get another in a larger size so I decided to approach Dave to copy one (having seen his Switchyard replica on here). It transpired that the pattern is based on a pre-war Monarch, so we went through Dave's collection of jackets and images and he worked up a pattern for me to fit my dimensions.
I wanted a close copy (French seams, 5 button fastening, slightly tapered silhouette, welted waist pockets), but not an exact one - I wasn't so keen on the collar knit and I wanted a two-piece back like the Brakeman.
So, Dave has assembled the parts for the build: the French goatskin has been dyed to match a Gordon and Ferguson M-422A that I liked (in a warm brown tone), a selection of brown deco Colt Amerhurst buttons, twill sleeve lining and moleskin pocket lining to match in period Monarch colours, and a coarse houndstooth lining in a red/green/brown combination.
I've always liked the Perry A-2 collar pattern on the 23377 with rounded tips and so I've asked Dave to add one of these, but with a shallower collar stand than on the Journeyman (and omitting the throat latch or tab); it'll have a zig zag stitch pattern and parallel stitches underneath, like an AN-J-3.
It's practically a Monarch, so Dave will add one of his Monarch labels.
The build is imminent (after the Christmas holiday) and it has been a real pleasure to work with Dave - in depth discussion about planning, detailed research undertaken, rapid responses to e-mailed questions, plenty of images during the planning stages.
I'll post images next month.

Looking forward to this jacket. Dave has a pile of beautiful Goatskin.

 

[Dr H]

The combination looks well.

 

[bond]

Yes look forward to see if/how you change the knit collar . A fuller rolled leather collar would look ok I think and keep with the vibe of the original.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dr H]

I’ve opted to replace the knit and have asked for something more reminiscent of a Perry Sportswear 23377 A-2 with rounded collar tips.

 

[tmitchell59]

View attachment 150378 The combination looks well.

Dave used that material on this All Weather Police Jacket restoration.

 

[Dr H]

Excellent, that’s just the combo that I’m aiming to achieve.