German motorcycle gear

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

Moleskin is called also Deutschleder or Zwirn Doppelpilot which is the heavy duty variante (ca. 520 g/qm). I am german but not into tailoring. I found online stores that sell organic moleskin / Doppelpilot made in Germany.
Check Bio-deutschleder-ocker-gelb-zwirn-doppelpilot-oeko.html
webstoffe , zwirn-doppelpilot-schwarz

@Damon141

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

Here is a 1950s german mc jacket with some nice details. Dark brown with the zippers lined in red leather and two tone braided epaulettes. 1920s style collar and back belt. Checkered sewing on shoulders, ellbows and lower back, like a kidney belt. A very short and fancy jacket. Moleskin lining as usual.

See my Instagram account for much more vintage leather gear....
i_love_indian_motocycles

 

[torfjord]

Holy moly!

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

Grail pick for a real collector!
His and her's 1930s German MC jacket pair!
Custon made in whale blue with woolen plaid lining. Never saw a jacket in that colour. Almost unworn.
Available on etsy in Germany, see link for further details.
seltenes-set-von-2-vintage-30er-40er

See my Instagram account for much more vintage leather gear....
i_love_indian_motocycles

 

[Vintage Restorer]

Here is a 1950s german mc jacket with some nice details. Dark brown with the zippers lined in red leather and two tone braided epaulettes. 1920s style collar and back belt. Checkered sewing on shoulders, ellbows and lower back, like a kidney belt. A very short and fancy jacket. Moleskin lining as usual.

See my Instagram account for much more vintage leather gear....
i_love_indian_motocycles

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Dear lord! What a beauty!

 

[Damon141]

For my last FL I used 430gr /sqm lochcarron tweed fabric.

Which feels substantial but not nearly as thick / heavy as the moleskin used on those vintage German jackets. I wouldn't be surprised if that's 800 gr / sqm.

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Marc, in your opinion from your German jackets, do you think that the 800g Moleskin which MrProper linked could be used in a modern jacket?

I was thinking about just the body and then using a Cupro/Bemberg or satin type fabric for the sleeves.

 

[Marc mndt]

Marc, in your opinion from your German jackets, do you think that the 800g Moleskin which MrProper linked could be used in a modern jacket?

I was thinking about just the body and then using a Cupro/Bemberg or satin type fabric for the sleeves.

I haven't handled this particular moleskin so I can't say for sure but I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work.

@ton312 didn't you own a fully corduroy lined jacket? I reckon that would be similar in weight / temper.

 

[Damon141]

Thanks and yes if corduroy works then 800g should too, I’m guessing Greg’s recommendation was based on lining weight he was used to and didn’t want to recommend something he hasn’t used just in case, I’ll double check with Greg before ordering and have a back up if the material gives him problems.

Now I’m seeing these German jackets everywhere and many have linings in perfect for their age, I know this can be from a variety of factors but it’s nice to see.

I see far too many new and barely worn expensive jackets with holes in their linings. Especially on non stress points.
I wanted the flannel or blanket lining in jacket but many used jackets for sale in this brand had holes in it, with virtually no wear to the leather itself so I went cotton drill which looks cheap to me in such an expensive jacket.

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

Continuing this thread with an outstanding piece of tailoring. These motorcycle breeches were tailored 100 years ago!
Manufacturer Josef Mattura of Göding / Austria was one of 4 companies that tailored military uniforms for Generals and high decorated officiers since the Napoleon war (around 1815!). I traced a very same design breeches that were made for an Austrian Dragoon Officer in 1910.
These are jet black ,very fine gabardine with suede leather inserts at the legs. The very special thing are the buttons. They are cast brass with glossy black paint and polished letters "Josef Mattura Göding". Smaller knobs are made of polished horn. Matturas label is positioned in a triangle at the back of the breeches with the words " Specialist in breeches fabrication" sewn in gold. One of the highlight in my collection and in almost unworn condition. Enjoy.
How do I know these are breeches for Motorcyclists?
The Austrian uniform breeches for Dragooners (=Cavalry) were bright red without leather inserts. After the fall of the Austrian/ Hungarian K & K Monarchy in 1918, manufacturers had to look for new clientel. Gentlemen Motorcyclists were one of them.

 

[Monitor]

Why exactly are these old motorcycle pants bloated at the sides? What possible use could that have had on a bike?

 

[Observe]

Why exactly are these old motorcycle pants bloated at the sides? What possible use could that have had on a bike?

I'm thinking maybe it's a holdover from when people rode horseback and wore similar pants, known as jodhpurs. The purpose of the baggy upper legs was to provide freedom of movement, I believe.

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

Why exactly are these old motorcycle pants bloated at the sides? What possible use could that have had on a bike?

The bloated sides were helpful when getting on / off a horse and riding. You have to spread one leg over the horses back. A rider always is in action with whipping up and down to avoid hard bumps. As there were no strech materials, the extra space at the upper legs and waist allowed easier movement. When the first motorcycles were invented, the riding position was just like on a horse. Bikes were high, saddle was way in the back and the handlebar was very long to get the upright position the rider was used to know from horse riding. The leather inserts protected against heat and oil. Thats when the nickname "Iron horse" came up.
Breeches style got en vouge in the late 1920s in common pants. The pegged part got smaller and smaller. In the mid 50s this style dissapeared.

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

Some more breeches...
Here comes the patina king! 1930s German made showing all shades of brown and heavily worn. A perfect pair for an authentic, rough riders or the best way to totally scare your old lady.
Buttons by Löhle&Zonen (dutch I guess), Zeuss Elegant and some others. Side buckle by Massag (War department company). You can see this one in action at the Normandy Beach Race this summer.

 

[Worf]

WOW! What a thread. Wish I had the frame to carry off this style. My mind is blown! Would you say that in the pre-war (WWII) the idea was function over form or vice versa? Moleskin is amazing in its durability. My keyboard is covered in drool. Thanks so much for sharing everybody!

Worf

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

WOW! What a thread. Wish I had the frame to carry off this style. My mind is blown! Would you say that in the pre-war (WWII) the idea was function over form or vice versa? Moleskin is amazing in its durability. My keyboard is covered in drool. Thanks so much for sharing everybody!

Worf

Thank you Worf, 30s style is ace but maybe looks strange nowadays. In my eyes actual motorcycle gear is function over form as they all look the same. Just synthetics with reflectors and protectors. These old hides are wearable and they protect as well. Keep the rubber side down!

 

[Monitor]

Some more breeches...
Here comes the patina king! 1930s German made showing all shades of brown and heavily worn. A perfect pair for an authentic, rough riders or the best way to totally scare your old lady.
Buttons by Löhle&Zonen (dutch I guess), Zeuss Elegant and some others. Side buckle by Massag (War department company). You can see this one in action at the Normandy Beach Race this summer.

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Damn, these are done so intricately well. Incredible! And whoever said goatskin doesn't age??

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

1930s German motorcycles jackets were usually custom tailored. Same basic design with double row of leather buttons and 4 small zipped pockets. Here are some out of my collection in Nougat, Chocolate brown and Mokka to sweeten your sunday.

 

[Damon141]

This is an early 30s motorcycle jacket. Goatskin, moleskin lining, bakelite buttons, Riri zippers.

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I keep coming back to this jacket because of its detailing, the workmanship and construction details are amazing, truly ahead of its time.

This leather is goatskin, would it have been chrome tanned or vegetable tanned?

I noticed it’s less spongy looking and the trademark pebble texture that goatskin is known for is less pronounced, is this due to age or differences in tanning?

I’m in the process of sourcing leather and materials for a truly vintage inspired piece and i can go with crowd favorite Shinki as it’s available but I would prefer something that would have been used in the 1930’s-1940’s, cowhide, horsehide, goatskin are all on the table.

 

[Marc mndt]

This leather is goatskin, would it have been chrome tanned or vegetable tanned?

Probably vegetable tanned.

I noticed it’s less spongy looking and the trademark pebble texture that goatskin is known for is less pronounced, is this due to age or differences in tanning?

I don't think it has to do with age. this particular goatskin (German mc jacket on page 1) isn't of the highest quality.

Nowhere near as nice as this 40s goatskin Monarch for instance.

I’m in the process of sourcing leather and materials for a truly vintage inspired piece and i can go with crowd favorite Shinki as it’s available but I would prefer something that would have been used in the 1930’s-1940’s, cowhide, horsehide, goatskin are all on the table.

For the vintage look and feel I would choose something vegetable tanned as chrome tanned leather will take much longer to develop some character.

 

[Antique Indian Motocycles]

Some details on German motorcycle jackets of the 1930s. Most had a slot under the arm for ventilation and extra wind cuffs at the sleeves. Also straps on the upper pockets for easy handling.