German magazine scans 1930s

[in/y]

Great post! Thank you for all of your effort.:eusa_clap

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I don't even understand some of the words used (Klappenbruch? wheew).

The point where the lapel breaks / is turned down? I am not a tailor so I am not sure.

Kragen= collar
Revers= lapel
Knopf, Knöpfe= buttons
Pattenbreite= width of the welt pocket
Bundfältchen, Bundfalte= pleats

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Let's not forget "Heil Hitler" was the standard salute. Everybody had to do it or would make himself suspicious. It was used as "hello" and "goodbye" and "best regards".
It was not a polictical statement every time. They just said it this way because it was demanded.

People who didn't like Hitler sometimes tried to mumble something else....like "Ein Liter". There is even a story about german swing kids who said "swing high" instead of "sieg heil" but I don't know if it is true.

 

[Mario]

The other thing that strikes me is the peak lapel SB was still popular on the Continent. It had gone out of the mainstream in the US about 1934, when the English drape arrived here in a big way. The drape shaped peak SB is very characteristically English or European - I think it was too "Cary Grantish" for the popular buyer.

We have two vintage shops here in Berlin. Upon my last visit there I found a beautiful 1930's German SB summer suit in a light taupe with gray chalk stripes - and peak lapels. I got so excited that I was actually very close to performing a little dance in the shop but unfortunately the suit turned out to be too small...

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Ah Mario. Damn! I feel your pain. I tried on every freekin suit in "die Spitze" last time I was there. Bought the jacket I wore on the Boheme Sauvage. Later somebody told me it was newer than I expected (I hoped for 1940s). It would be so great to buy here and be able to try them on. But in the end we always have to bid on US suits.

 

[Mario]

Tell me 'bout it, Flo...I walked home a defeated man; bent, broken and destroyed...

But rest assured: that jacket you wore at the Boheme Sauvage is absolutely beautiful, no matter if it's from the 40's or the 50's.

 

[Blackjack]

Hello Michael,
I didn't scan these pages. I don't want to. No offense to people with an historical interest in militaria. But I don't feel well because there are some black sheep who like to dress up in uniforms for "fun". I just don't want to have anything to do with it and don't help them. Thank you for your understanding.

Florian

Florian,
I think we're far less sensitive to that sort of thing here in the states than you all in Germany, but thats Ok we respect your reasons...

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Thank you Mario. I remember Marc Chevalier once told all the german golden era suits went to Chile. I don't know why.

@Blackjack: Yes, I know. I could explain it better but that would be to much offtopic. Let's focus on the suits.

 

[Mario]

The point where the lapel breaks / is turned down? I am not a tailor so I am not sure.

Kragen= collar
Revers= lapel
Knopf, Knöpfe= buttons
Pattenbreite= width of the welt pocket
Bundfältchen, Bundfalte= pleats

I think this will come in handy: A dictionary of German technical tailoring terms.

And for those who understand German and have a general interest in tailoring terms: Das Bekleidungs-Lexikon. That one's massive...

Both dictionaries contain the term Klappenbruch, which is another word for Reversbruch. It's a lapel line in English.

 

[Mario]

Thank you Mario. I remember Marc Chevalier once told all the german golden era suits went to Chile. I don't know why.

They probably went with all those die-hard Nazis that fled to South America after the war...

 

[wahine]

Ah Mario. Damn! I feel your pain. I tried on every freekin suit in "die Spitze" ...

Is that a Berlin second hand shop? Do they only have men's or also ladies' stuff?
Sorry for those basic questions, but I'm quite new to the whole vintage idea (and not sure yet how far I can or want to go into it). But I'd be really interested in knowing places where I could get some vintage garments.

Mario, thanks for the link, that will be useful!

 

[Mario]

No problem. This is just the right place to ask questions, no matter how basic.

The shops serve both gents and ladies.

One is called Glencheck, the other is called Spitze. Trouble is that none of them offer their stuff online. You'll have to go and look for yourself.

Hope this helps.

 

[wahine]

Thanks! Frankly, I didn't expect an online shop (most small German shops are slow with that). Now I know where to go on my next Berlin visit. What a pity that I didn't know it earlier, I was in Berlin in August and it'll take me some time to get there again.

 

[Mario]

Well - happy hunting, then!

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Some vintage workwear from 1931, vobachs familienhilfe.
not so exciting as in the american workwear adds, I suppose.

 

[Qirrel]

Well, at least i think it is!

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Theyx don't look like workers. more like androgynous dandies or artists. haha.


The last few from "Schneidermeister"

an ad for sewing machines

Ernst Dryden drawing from "Die Dame"

from Vobachs Familienhilfe, early 30s

 

[Tailor Tom]

I think this is my Favorite grouping...the pocket and yoke treatments are simply fantastic.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I have to confess that the grouping is almost random. I didn't sort by page numbers because the magazines are at my girlfriends home.

Now I am thinking about what my favourite suit would be. I wouldn't go for all the fancy pockets maybe.

 

[HepKitty]

Nice. Wish men still dressed like this