German magazine scans 1930s

[Flat Foot Floey]

Hello

I scanned some magazines and would like to share them with you. The first few are from "Der Schneidermeister"(The Tailor) 1938
If you like them I can scan some more.

Florian

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

some overcoats:

 

[Bugsy]

some overcoats:

I think we'd all like to see some more, Florian. Thank you so much.

 

[Mario]

Flo, these are some great scans! Bugsy is right: if there is more - please let us have it.

Looking at all those great suits make me a little sad, considering that not many have survived WWII. They burn so easily...

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Hm yeah. But burned suits where the smallest tragedy. It is sad that the peak of mens fashion takes place in the same period as the rupture in civilisation. It takes a bitter note even to things like that. The magazine has some pages with uniforms too. Of course I leave them out. (I don't even like reenactment)
Interesting enough there are some pages that mention english fashion or english fabrics. Even then they couldn't deny the satorial influence of the british tailors on menswear.

Well here are the next scans:

 

[Michael Carter]

I'd be interested in seeing the uniforms too. I know many officers had privately made and tailored uniforms for those that could afford to do so, as well as off-the-rack from different clothiers.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

 

[Feraud]

These are great. Please scan and post as many pages as you can manage.
I will add this to our big sticky thread which I encourage everyone to browse!
THE BIG STICKY - Catalog scans and other useful threads.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I'd be interested in seeing the uniforms too. I know many officers had privately made and tailored uniforms for those that could afford to do so, as well as off-the-rack from different clothiers.

Hello Michael,
I didn't scan these pages. I don't want to. No offense to people with an historical interest in militaria. But I don't feel well because there are some black sheep who like to dress up in uniforms for "fun". I just don't want to have anything to do with it and don't help them. Thank you for your understanding.

Florian

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

The best page is this one. It has a detailed description of a suit in the fashion of spring / summer 1938.

Suit 1938

I'll try to make a translation soon. If you are impatient, try to translate this with google or something:

1.Der Kragen wird flachliegend gearbeitet, so dass vom Wäschekragen mindestens 1 ½ cm in der hinteren Partie zu sehen sind. Die Stehkragenhöhe beträgt höchstens 2 cm.
2.Durch den flachliegenden Kragen bilden Schulter und Kragen eine fast gerade Linie; „hohl“ gearbeitete Schultern sind unzulässig.
3.Die Schultern dürfen nicht verbreitert werden. Sie haben normale Breite. Durch die modisch bedingte, stark nach vorn gestellte Achselspitze wird das Armloch direkt beeinflusst, und daher erscheinen die Armlochnähte am fertigen Sakko fast senkrecht laufend. Starke Watteauflagen sind nicht der Mode entsprechend. Hängende Schultern werden zweckmäßig durch die neuen, fertig zu beziehende Achseleinlagen ausgerichtet.
4.Durch die moderne Schnittform ergibt sich die mäßig füllige Weite vor dem Armloch ohne starkes Einarbeiten. Die schöne plastische Form ist auch von der weichen Einlage abhängig. Nur eine solche darf verwandt werden
5.Beim einreihigen Sakko ist der Klappenbruch gerade, beim zweireihigen etwas gehohlt ausgearbeitet.
6.Starke Taillenhohlungen sind unzeitgemäß. Die Taille wird nur mäßig angedeutet und liegt in natürlicher Höhe. Der Schließknopf ist ebenfalls in Taillenhöhe anzubringen.
7.Die Knopfentfernung beträgt bei einer Normalgröße von 1,76m etwa 10 cm. In gleicher Höhe mit dem unteren Knopf liegt auch der Tascheneingriff. Die Pattenbreite beträgt etwa 6 cm. Die Knöpfe sind knapp an der Kante anzubringen., Überschlagbreite daher höchstens 2 cm.
8.Durchschnittsärmelweite ist 14 ½ cm.
9.Der Abstich ist vom Schließknop ab, der üblichen Form entsprechend, solide und leicht gerundet.
10.Die Sakkolänge beträgt bei einer Normalgröße von 176 etwas 77 cm.
11.Die Weste wird mit schmalen Achseln geschnitten, das Armloch ziemlich groß gehalten, die Brustpartie gelockert und das Rückteil ohne Schnallgurte gearbeitet. Der Ausschnitt ist ziemlich weit geöffnet und leicht hohl. Der unterste Knopf wird nicht geknöpft.
12.Die lange Hose zum Straßensakko wird mit Bundfältchen und im allgemeinen mit Umschlägen gearbeitet. Je nach Wunsch kann die Hose auch ohne Umschläge gearbeitet werden. Durchschnittsknieweite 60 cm.
13.Durchschnittsfußweite beträgt 50 cm.
14.Durch den flachen Kragenansatz bilden Kragen und Achselnaht eine fast gerade Linie.
15.und 16.Die mässige Verbreiterung des Rückenteils und der faltenlose Unterärmel sind beim modernen Sakko unerläßlich.
17.Die Taille wird nur mäßig angedeutet
18.Der moderne Sakko umschließt die Gesäßpartie glatt
19.Auch an der unteren Kante muß der Sakko das Beinkleid glatt, aber nicht fest umschließen.Nach wie vor werden die Sakkos ohne Schlitz gearbeitet.

 

[Undertow]

Hm yeah. But burned suits where the smallest tragedy. It is sad that the peak of mens fashion takes place in the same period as the rupture in civilisation. It takes a bitter note even to things like that. The magazine has some pages with uniforms too. Of course I leave them out. (I don't even like reenactment)
Interesting enough there are some pages that mention english fashion or english fabrics. Even then they couldn't deny the satorial influence of the british tailors on menswear.

I can certainly understand your feelings on this and I would support your decision to censor some of the pics. However, I will note how timeless these styles are regardless to their country of origin. Sharp pictures, thanks for sharing!

 

[Fletch]

Great stuff FFF - great thanx for sharing it.
I can understand FFF's reluctance to post uniforms publicly - in Germany it is actually against the law to do such things, IIRC.

Looking at the styles, I don't see much that is characteristically German to my eyes (going by old films and photos ) besides the more busily-tailored sport coats with button pockets, self-belts and such, giving a nod to the Tracht or regional costumery.

The other thing that strikes me is the peak lapel SB was still popular on the Continent. It had gone out of the mainstream in the US about 1934, when the English drape arrived here in a big way. The drape shaped peak SB is very characteristically English or European - I think it was too "Cary Grantish" for the popular buyer.

 

[wahine]

These are great impressions, thank you for sharing!
Are there any patterns in the magazines as well? I got some German mid 50s men's tailoring magazines, but unfortunately they don't have patterns - just some descriptions like the ones you posted.
I'd like to make something for my man once (in time far, far from today, since I'll need much better tailoring skills).

 

[Tomasso]

Thanks for the effort!

I love this stuff.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

These are great. Very much like Montague Burton illustrations of the era. I have some German scans around here somewheres that Shaul-Ike Cohen sent me a while ago. Difficult to censor though …* I remember the text on almost every page ending "Und … Heil Hitler!". I thought it quite weird that even menswear catalogues were so fearful that they had to print such gratuitous suckhole statements.[huh]

bk

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Unfortunaly there are no patterns. Some suits have numbers to order the patterns. Often the articles deal with certain problems (like a costumer with round shoulders) or focus on aspects that are different to the fashion of the year before. Sometimes they include technical drawings but no ready to use patterns.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

here they compare dinner jackets with different buttoning. the one on the right is described as the newest model in 1938 , the first is from spring 1937 and the one in the middle from fall 1937.

page to order the pattern

 

[wahine]

Wow, thanks a lot for the effort!
It seems pretty much like the magazines I have (called "Rundschau - Deutsches Schneiderfachblatt"), only that mine don't even have the offer to order patterns. Not that I'd make any difference for us today.
Probably to a tailor, the small sketches and the information will be enough to remake such a suit. I don't even understand some of the words used (Klappenbruch? wheew).

 

[Fletch]

These are great. Very much like Montague Burton illustrations of the era. I have some German scans around here somewheres that Shaul-Ike Cohen sent me a while ago. Difficult to censor though …* I remember the text on almost every page ending "Und … Heil Hitler!". I thought it quite weird that even menswear catalogues were so fearful that they had to print such gratuitous suckhole statements.[huh]

I assumed tailoring was a particularly Jewish industry, one that had been ethnically cleansed by '38, but was still anxious to avoid further associations to Jews.