German & Austrian Hutmachers

[Guven]

Hello mayserwegener and friends

The last time I posted (in the summer) a brown long hair rabbit felt hat which had no identifying marks-and it was tough to identify the maker and the exact period of manufacture...I just bought this new grey rabbit felt hat definitely from Wegener (complete with lining and everything) which I am assuming is from the 1960s...and I just wanted to share some pics and wondering if you (or anyone else) could offer any more information about it. Thanks in advance.

 

[mayserwegener]

Friedrich Steinberg Herrmann & Co. Hutfabrik Luckenwalde (STECO), J. Hückel´s Söhne, "N.P.U" (Non Plus Ultra), "Exquisit", F.P. Size 7, 153 grams, possibly early to mid 1930s. The Stiff Felt body plus Band + Binding were made by J. Hückel´s Söhne and I was able to find the "N.P.U" trademark. See below for details. Usually the JHS paper label size is plus one the actual size but this one might be 61 cm. It's possible the sweatband and liner were supplied by STECO to JHS or applied by STECO.

Luckily, I was able to find that the N.P.U. (Non Plus Ultra) trademark was used by Friedrich Steinberg Herrmann & Co. Hutfabrik Luckenwalde.

JHS Stiff Felts Post WWI Type 2 Paper Label.

Heinrich Esders Dresden

 

[mayserwegener]

Hello mayserwegener and friends

The last time I posted (in the summer) a brown long hair rabbit felt hat which had no identifying marks-and it was tough to identify the maker and the exact period of manufacture...I just bought this new grey rabbit felt hat definitely from Wegener (complete with lining and everything) which I am assuming is from the 1960s...and I just wanted to share some pics and wondering if you (or anyone else) could offer any more information about it. Thanks in advance.

Guven, Thank you for posting the photos. I think it might be later than the 1960s. Possibly the 1970s. My focus is on 1950s and older Wegener Soft and Stiff Felt hats. Unfortunately Wegener is no longer a hat manufacturer. What happened to the factory and machinery is sad story. See the link below for the details.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...nak-huckel-no-name.36821/page-19#post-3025094

This the latest.

https://www.fuldaerzeitung.de/vogel...ren-briefkastenfirma-lauterbach-93400442.html

A Crowd Funding effort failed back in 2020 which led to this debacle. Some nice photos of the factory and of the former employees.

https://www.fuldaerzeitung.de/vogel...gener-video-familienunternehmen-90017982.html

 

[Guven]

Guven, Thank you for posting the photos. I think it might be later than the 1960s. Possibly the 1970s. My focus is on 1950s and older Wegener Soft and Stiff Felt hats. Unfortunately Wegener is no longer a hat manufacturer. What happened to the factory and machinery is sad story. See the link below for the details.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...nak-huckel-no-name.36821/page-19#post-3025094

This the latest.

https://www.fuldaerzeitung.de/vogel...ren-briefkastenfirma-lauterbach-93400442.html

A Crowd Funding effort failed back in 2020 which led to this debacle. Some nice photos of the factory and of the former employees.

https://www.fuldaerzeitung.de/vogel...gener-video-familienunternehmen-90017982.html

Thank you for the reply...sorry to read about the company going under. I guess, it's good to have one of their hats even if it is one of their later ones. I suspected it was a not very old because of the relatively good condition it was in, but I was hooked when I saw the little rabbit figure imprinted on the leather sweatband and it was also in my size. I will keep on the lookout for older vintage pieces...do you have any advice on how to identify them? For example, I am attaching a few pictures of another hat I passed on because it was similar to the long hair rabbit I asked you about in the summer. This one has a brown sweatband but the picture of the inside did not come out very clear-but would you say this a earlier hat, for instance....and what are some of the ways you can you tell ? Thanks again

 

[steur]

Brüder Dobesch Wien "Norma", 58 cm, possibly later 1950s. Brüder Dobesch Wien hats are more difficult to find (and most are Homburgs) considering they were a famous Austrian hat company. This Soft Felt has a nice form and a stylish bow design. I also like the felt color and brim treatment. Josef Prix Wien was a famous Vienna Men's Clothing store.

Open Crown

Natural Light

That is a great find, Steve. Lovely colours and shape. Judging by the liner I would have placed that one a bit earlier than later fifties though.

 

[steur]

Friedrich Steinberg Herrmann & Co. Hutfabrik Luckenwalde (STECO), J. Hückel´s Söhne, "N.P.U" (Non Plus Ultra), "Exquisit", F.P. Size 7, 153 grams, possibly early to mid 1930s. The Stiff Felt body plus Band + Binding were made by J. Hückel´s Söhne and I was able to find the "N.P.U" trademark. See below for details. Usually the JHS paper label size is plus one the actual size but this one might be 61 cm. It's possible the sweatband and liner were supplied by STECO to JHS or applied by STECO.

Luckily, I was able to find that the N.P.U. (Non Plus Ultra) trademark was used by Friedrich Steinberg Herrmann & Co. Hutfabrik Luckenwalde.

JHS Stiff Felts Post WWI Type 2 Paper Label.

Heinrich Esders Dresden

Another wonderful find and good research. Recently came across a hat branded Esders, which in retrospect I should have jumped upon, but failed to do so. When I wanted to pull the trigger it was alreasy gone. Lesson learned.

 

[mayserwegener]

Thank you for the reply...sorry to read about the company going under. I guess, it's good to have one of their hats even if it is one of their later ones. I suspected it was a not very old because of the relatively good condition it was in, but I was hooked when I saw the little rabbit figure imprinted on the leather sweatband and it was also in my size. I will keep on the lookout for older vintage pieces...do you have any advice on how to identify them? For example, I am attaching a few pictures of another hat I passed on because it was similar to the long hair rabbit I asked you about in the summer. This one has a brown sweatband but the picture of the inside did not come out very clear-but would you say this a earlier hat, for instance....and what are some of the ways you can you tell ? Thanks again

Guven, There are no visible company marks and nothing else that stands out regarding a possible maker. In the future check behind the sweatband for a paper label and take a photo. My guess would be later 1960s into the 1970s. This based on the form, dimensions, components and construction. Take a look at the Brüder Dobesch Wien Soft Felt I recently posted. That will give you an idea of what to look for (the form, dimensions, components, felt, construction) in a earlier (1950s) Soft Felt. I would also take a look through this thread and note the dating for each hat. You can also look at my website.

 

[mayserwegener]

That is a great find, Steve. Lovely colours and shape. Judging by the liner I would have placed that one a bit earlier than later fifties though.

Stefan, Thank you. I think it might be a bit earlier as you suggest. It's interesting that the paper label is in English and uses the British spelling "Colour". Also has English sizing 7 1/8 along with cm. Could point to the post WWII time period (1945-55) when Vienna had Sectors (American, British, French, Soviet). I have seen this possibly with Hutproduktiv Wien using French on their paper labels.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/163-hutproduktiv-wien/#findComment-911

 

[mayserwegener]

Another wonderful find and good research. Recently came across a hat branded Esders, which in retrospect I should have jumped upon, but failed to do so. When I wanted to pull the trigger it was alreasy gone. Lesson learned.

Stefan, Thanks again! This one turned out to be really interesting. It was a long shot finding the STECO trademark connection but you can also see it in the sweatband type.

 

[Guven]

Guven, There are no visible company marks and nothing else that stands out regarding a possible maker. In the future check behind the sweatband for a paper label and take a photo. My guess would be later 1960s into the 1970s. This based on the form, dimensions, components and construction. Take a look at the Brüder Dobesch Wien Soft Felt I recently posted. That will give you an idea of what to look for (the form, dimensions, components, felt, construction) in a earlier (1950s) Soft Felt. I would also take a look through this thread and note the dating for each hat. You can also look at my website.

Thanks again mayserwegener...I will do my homework on form, dimensions, components and construction ..I guess I still get excited about any old vintage brimmed hat I may come across because they are relatively rare where I live even with more vintage clothing shops opening up in the trendier neighborhoods. I always appreciate the input though.

 

[marting81]

Beauties

 

[mayserwegener]

Beauties
View attachment 663752

Martin, Super! Have you shown that hat before?

 

[mayserwegener]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Pra Velour" "Bockmeiers Edelvelour", 56 cm, possibly later 1930s. This is a new JHS Velour type, "Pra Velour" "Edelvelour". "Pra" and "Edel" have similar meanings in Czech and German. Possible this was something special for Josef Bockmeier (Passau) since it's "Bockmeiers Edelvelour". The black Velour is of very high quality and is more closely cropped with high gloss. The Velour is very pliable and easily dry creases. Also, an interesting criss cross liner design. Always nice to find something new.

Open Crown

Josef Bockmeier, Passau Address Book (1939)

 

[Steve1857]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Par Velour" "Bockmeiers Edelvelour", 56 cm, possibly later 1930s. This is a new JHS Velour type, "Pra Velour" "Edelvelour". "Pra" and "Edel" have similar meanings in Czech and German. Possible this was something special for Josef Bockmeier (Passau) since it's "Bockmeiers Edelvelour". The black Velour is of very high quality and is more closely cropped with high gloss. The Velour is very pliable and easily dry creases. Also, an interesting criss cross liner design. Always nice to find something new.

Open Crown

Josef Bockmeier, Passau Address Book (1939)

Great find, Steve. The liner design is rather unique.

What are the dimensions? The brim looks quite short.

 

[mayserwegener]

Great find, Steve. The liner design is rather unique.

What are the dimensions? The brim looks quite short.

Steve, Thank you! The brim is 2 inches, 5 cm so short. The crown is 5 1/2 inches, 14 cm open. It's definitely interesting.

 

[Steve1857]

Steve, Thank you! The brim is 2 inches, 5 cm so short. The crown is 5 1/2 inches, 14 cm open. It's definitely interesting.

Very interesting I'd say.

I'm sorry it's not your size nor mine.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Pra Velour" "Bockmeiers Edelvelour", 56 cm, possibly later 1930s. This is a new JHS Velour type, "Pra Velour" "Edelvelour". "Pra" and "Edel" have similar meanings in Czech and German. Possible this was something special for Josef Bockmeier (Passau) since it's "Bockmeiers Edelvelour". The black Velour is of very high quality and is more closely cropped with high gloss. The Velour is very pliable and easily dry creases. Also, an interesting criss cross liner design. Always nice to find something new.

Open Crown

Josef Bockmeier, Passau Address Book (1939)

Superb!

 

[PanosChris]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Pra Velour" "Bockmeiers Edelvelour", 56 cm, possibly later 1930s. This is a new JHS Velour type, "Pra Velour" "Edelvelour". "Pra" and "Edel" have similar meanings in Czech and German. Possible this was something special for Josef Bockmeier (Passau) since it's "Bockmeiers Edelvelour". The black Velour is of very high quality and is more closely cropped with high gloss. The Velour is very pliable and easily dry creases. Also, an interesting criss cross liner design. Always nice to find something new.

Open Crown

Josef Bockmeier, Passau Address Book (1939)

I'll second the others, Fantastic+

 

[steur]

J. Hückel´s Söhne "Pra Velour" "Bockmeiers Edelvelour", 56 cm, possibly later 1930s. This is a new JHS Velour type, "Pra Velour" "Edelvelour". "Pra" and "Edel" have similar meanings in Czech and German. Possible this was something special for Josef Bockmeier (Passau) since it's "Bockmeiers Edelvelour". The black Velour is of very high quality and is more closely cropped with high gloss. The Velour is very pliable and easily dry creases. Also, an interesting criss cross liner design. Always nice to find something new.

Open Crown

Josef Bockmeier, Passau Address Book (1939)

As the others have said: fabulous find, Steve. And my size too . Just when you think you've seen all of them a new one pops up. That's what keeps it interesting.

 

[mayserwegener]

Very interesting I'd say.

I'm sorry it's not your size nor mine.

Steve, It measures just over 57 cm so I took a chance. The paper label is broken on two sides. The one with "Pra Vel" had to be glued back on because it was no longer attached. The sweatband seam was sliced open.