German & Austrian Hutmachers

[mayserwegener]

Hückel (Weilheim) Chevreau, 58 cm, probably late 1950s. Great felt color / finish and easily dry creases. As usual very fine dressing work.

Open Crown

 

[Chepstow]

Great hat Steve - lovely Color and ribbon work!


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[mayserwegener]

Manfred, Thanks!

 

[moehawk]

Lembert "Teddy" that I found online. Came to me from the Great White North. Arrived yesterday.

I liked my Lembert Velour enough to give this one a try. It is well made, with a super thin leather sweat like my velour. I might replace the woven band. I like the pattern on the liner.
Crown is 5 1/4", overwelt brim is 2 1/4"
One thing I noticed right away was that the felt was much stiffer than my other Lembert, and the finish on this one id quite coarse feeling in comparison. The felt itself is thicker, seems like this hat was intended for harder outdoor use than some fancy velour.
My guess on the age is late 50's, maybe early 60's. I'm most likely off, I'm sure mayser can set me right!

 

[mayserwegener]

Super! Is the liner glued? It's a longer hair Heather. I am not sure of the felt make up because Lembert made both Wool and Fur felt bodies. It could be a mix of both. The extra stiffness is due to machine forming. I have only come across a couple older 1950s Lemberts that were open crown. I think the band works with the style and felt. Looks like some discoloration at the left side dent.

 

[Chepstow]

Looks great Moe, this hats in this felt quality have a longe life - [emoji1360]


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[moehawk]

Thanks mayser and Chepstow!
The liner was hanging on by one last spot of glue when I first inspected it.
The felt doesn't have the stubbornness of the woolies that I started out with. Although stiff, it did respond well to steam and reshaping. I did wonder if it might be a wool/fur blend.
Here's a couple more shots with the dents and crease popped out. Looks to me like some of the long hairs may have worn off the pinch from use so it looks darker than other spots.

 

[mayserwegener]

Sorry I missed the 100 Jahre on the sweatband so 1961 or bit later (K&R Lembert was founded in 1861). Teddy Quality is most likely related to the Brownish Gold color (Farbe: Braun Gold) and finish of the felt which is Teddy Bear like. Could be Wool or Fur or a Fur - Wool blend. My guess is Fur Felt.

 

[moehawk]

Thanks again!
I don't have much experience with fur-wool blends other than a dyna-felt I had found at a yard sale a few years ago. This feels nicer than I remember that one to be. Looks like my guess of late 50's to early 60's wasn't too far off.

 

[Chepstow]

A small Breiter Video !!!
http://amzn.to/29SxFYA


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[mayserwegener]

Manfred, Thanks! Great short video! We have found some great vintage hats from A. Breiter München. One of my favorites!

 

[mayserwegener]

Brüder Böhm "Bristol", 54cm, probably late 1930s. This one does not belong to me but it's a tiny gem of a hat.

 

[Frunobulax]

Cool liner, Steve. I like those heathery ones.

 

[RJR]

Cool liner, Steve. I like those heathery ones.

+1

 

[1mach1]

Brüder Böhm "Bristol", 54cm, probably late 1930s. This one does not belong to me but it's a tiny gem of a hat.

Great finish on that one. Love that "split" liner.

 

[mayserwegener]

Karl Schulpig, THE HAT, Ten Original Woodcuts, Introduction By Walter F. Schubert, Autumn 1925.

THESE TEN ORIGINAL WOODCUTS BY KARL SCHULPIG IN AUTUMN 1925 WITH OTTO VON HOLTEN, BERLIN, ONE HUNDRED COPIES WERE PRINTED IN JAPAN. ALL PRINTS WERE SIGNED AND NUMBERED BY THE ARTIST

THIS FOLIO CONTAINS NUMBER: 50

Dedication by the artist for Mr Gustav Schriever, signed and dated Christmas 1925.

Adam and Eve hats have taken, we do not know. But that in the times of Moses and the prophets, the use of hats was common, known to us from Egyptian representations. The ancient Greeks already involved a large variety of hat shapes, narrow and broad-brimmed, flat Rundl vaulted and high pointed. The Romans had the hat fogar a symbol of freedom. If the slave was allowed to shed the shackles of bondage, he received as an external acknowledgment of he / arrived dignity hat, which then appears on many coins of the Roman republic as a sign of freedom. He soon became a favorite child of the goddess fashion. Already in the early Middle Ages, he moved permanently shape and color. Colorful feathers were used to fine jewelry. The color at all played an important role in fine life. Red was the prerogative of the cardinal hats, yellow the repentance color of Jews caps, green the color of Bankers. Fifty years pass ran the hat in the sixteenth century in danger of being displaced by the cap completely out of fashion. But he then celebrated fine victory with huge mouse load upward and to the sides. The high Spanish hat followed the wide-brimmed "Rubens hat" and perhaps even more extensive Swedish slouch. It was not long since you hit first a brim high, later - in the eighteenth century -then a second and third. Thus the famous tricorn was finished that dominated fashion for a century. It lined Fich at fchlichte round hat of the revolutionary period, the fantastic Bicorne the "incroyables" the "Napoleon hat". The nineteenth century has then filled in endless molding and taken in rapid succession, the old guy back and wide developed. It just eat in the field of fashion hat "everything you ever been the". Today there are two basic forms of travel and the soft felt hat, which dominate the market, and where less deviations from a normal type place decisive, but rather the quality of the material used for the production and the quality of workmanship. It's a long way, the guard has to traverse before it gets to finely target, protection and ornament to provide the head of the Lord or Lady.

The images of this solution that, occasionally from studies in a lower largest hat factories of famous painter and graphic artist Karl Schulpig, Berlin - Carl Goldfchmidt Hat Factory AG in Luckenwalde - has drawn and later cut himself in wood, already babble identify which sum technical and chemical knowledge, what a wealth of modern machines and apparatuses including to allow borrowed felt hat a seemingly simple finished product as a gentlemen. Let us keep only its manufacturing in mind, we must equal at first find two basic types who strive the goal of readiness for use on completely separate paths: the wool felt: and the hair felt hat. The distinction between the two is based on the structure of the hair fiber. The wool, the shear product of sheep hair is a frizzy hair; the house is made of a strong natural felting property in connection with the large number of fiber ends. For the so-called hair hats hand simple hair, especially rabbit hair, hare and beaver hair is used, that the originally nonexistent felt capacity after processing with a mercury stain obtained whose invention - by 1730 - a significant turning point in the history of the hat represents. Of the sections of this folder find the noble five of wool devoted hat manufacture. It is certainly the first time that an artist related all stages of hat manufacture displays, and it was one of such fact the whole creative boldness and to soon reduce the rich experience of a familiar with the representation of modern equipment gear artist of high scaffold, soon from the dripping wet a hall angle out, always buffeted by the noise of the machines, fortified from steam vapors, even in scorching, then lift out in cool and airy rooms, quiet and with a keen eye is essential, the characteristic feature of all operations from the black base of Painting Boards. The large double sheet "wool hat spinning" is of elevated situated point of an overview of the basic and most important process of woolen hat manufacture and also an idea of the vast scale of a modern large enterprise. The is worked into the cone carding pictured here again by a series of teeth occupied rolls in morel and in first breaker loosened and finely shredded, eventually shift as delicate, transparent pile to about 5 cm thick-marsh wrapped wool and arrives at the end of this cumbersome maturity to double cone, which move not only around its horizontal axis, also found pivoting movements to the right and make left.

Especially skillful workers make sure that the pile accumulates wrinkles on the double cone. By cutting at its base which is so fine cotton hollow cone are separated, and you now have the basic shape of two hats. The next employment shall famtlich putting together squeeze, the compression and entanglement of these structures. In the other images from the Filzerei, Twisterei and pressing plant, the artist shows the mighty lever pressing and fulling machines that help make these procedures at high temperatures and the hats are finally transferred to a final and permanent form. As with the wool hat, the cone carding the original measures fabrication first create a form, on which the further treatment can build up, so takes the leading role in hair hat manufacture of Facherei to. The purified in Blowing Machines hair is drawn to technical equipment by the strong draft of an exhaust fan on a perforated and constantly rotating copper hollow cone. Does the hair body reaches the right thickness here, so hot water is driven against him and the hair structure thus given so much respect that fine separation can be carried out from the cone. With the thus obtained first fruits of hair hat manufacture, the times will now proceed similarly as with the hat manufacture Conformity the early products of wool. Anstoßerei and fullery care for their consolidation. In the dyeing optionally still follows a colorful bathroom. Zurichte and Garniererei end the multi-unit development path for both hat styles. That the vernacular since ever with hat busy and has dedicated a large chain of proverbs, bemoan the great importance that you always attributed to him and respect for the difficulty of fine production, although passed in the present for the most part on machines is, but also because requires a relatively high expenditure of time and effort.

LIST OF WOODCUTS

Wool Hat Fabrication 1. Wool Hat Lapping 2. Wool Hat Lapping 3. Felting 4. Twisting 5. Pressing

Hair Hat Fabrication 6. Cone Forming 7. Hair Hat Felting 8. Fulling 9. Fulling 10. Dying

 

[mayserwegener]

Wool Hat Fabrication

Wool Hat Lapping

Wool Hat Lapping

Felting

Twisting

Pressing

Hair Hat Fabrication

Cone Forming

Hair Hat Felting

Fulling

Fulling

Dying

 

[mayserwegener]

The prints appeared in "50 Years Carl Goldschmidt Hat Factory A.G. Luckenwalde, Germany". I made copies of this book at the Gotisches Haus (Gothic House) Bad Homburg, Germany but haven't posted them yet.

Karl Schulpig was a very well known / innovative graphic artist from Berlin.

https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karl_Schulpig&edit-text=

https://books.google.de/books?id=469vTMYFOUMC&pg=PA34&lpg=PA34&dq=Schulpig,+Karl:+Handelszeichen&source=bl&ots=ePIYUN-QDK&sig=5nQ6CSvo05rX-aVFxTI_F9HYGnE&hl=de&ei=LvYoTYyKDsaw8gPCstisAg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CFYQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=Schulpig, Karl: Handelszeichen&f=false

 

[KY Crusader]

Wool Hat Fabrication

Wool Hat Lapping

Wool Hat Lapping

Felting

Twisting

Pressing

Hair Hat Fabrication

Cone Forming

Hair Hat Felting

Fulling

Fulling

Dying

In addition to the text, the woodcuts are tremendous. They were quite the rage in early 20th-century Germany: One of several cultural revivals meant to inspire nationalistic pride and to harken back to the days of the master-craftsman. What's interesting to me is that this idea of craft is here combined with unabashed enthusiasm for the machine, which yields a wonderful melding of tradition and innovation. Good stuff!

 

[1mach1]

Steve, great posts! Thanks for sharing. Interesting stuff there.