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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
I don't have any JHS catalogs (believe me I have been looking). It's an Extra quality and I am fairly sure Loutre was on the higher end. Fashion wise my guess is very high end sporty. In England and America it would have been considered outrageous (assuming late 19th Century). In America Austrian Velours did not become popular until around 1910 (see Robert's old American market JHS Velour).
 
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Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Two more German Homburgs in size 60 cm. This time light grey.

The first one is certainly older (late pre-war or early post-war).

Marked only as "Prima Haarhut" and stamped "HEBECO" under the leather.
Can our experts here tell more about these?

Prima4.jpg

Prima2.jpg

Prima3.jpg

Prima1.jpg


The second one is a 1950's Wegener with more supple and stiff felt.
Also HEBECO marked leather, plus a paper label under the liner.

Wegener1.jpg

Wegener2.jpg

Wegener.jpg
 
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Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Great Homburg duo!

The first one was made by Rockel & Co. Alsfeld. If you scroll down at the following link you will see a couple of Prima Haarhut with Rockel paper labels that belong to Manfred. These hats are from a batch of dead stock Rockels that popped up a while ago. I think you are correct about the dating.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/17-rockel-hutfabrik/#entry745

The second is of course a R. & M. Wegener. My guess would be later 1950s. It's marked Super quality so at the highest price point. Wegener did great detail work.
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Helpful as always! Thank you.

I wonder why Rockel would sell these "Prima Haarhut" labelled hats without showing their name (only hidden on the paper label)?
Is it a type of "store-brand"?
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Helpful as always! Thank you.

I wonder why Rockel would sell these "Prima Haarhut" labelled hats without showing their name (only hidden on the paper label)?
Is it a type of "store-brand"?

I think you might be right about it being a store brand or maybe just a marketing ploy.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Thanks for posting the photos! Not sure I have seen one from a shop in Sweden. It's possible the last number in the S/1568/50 sequence is the production year. Where did you find it?
 
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krasher

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
austria
Found it at a vintage car swap meet in St. Gallen, Switzerland, a couple of months ago, paid about 25 bucks for it. It has a few moth bites but looks good overall. My guess it's from the 50s, but I couldn't find out much about the maker so far.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
The maker is listed in 1963 Kelly's Directory (see below) but I have no other information. There were a good number of Swiss hat companies as late as 1963.

15642232724_963afd8ca0_o.jpg

15644751843_890312b2a4_o.jpg


I think you are correct about the dating. My guess would be mid 1950s but it could be a bit later or a bit earlier. Wish more old Swiss hats would pop up!
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,215
Location
Verona - Italia
Wilke Blau

Here there is my first Wilke.
Blue felt, really soft and pliable with a "peachy" touch
27wvatv.jpg
2a827a9.jpg
Dimensions are classic UE: Brims are 5 cm. and crown 10.5 cm with matching ribbon and brim is set off with a blue ribbon.
I think it is the late production of this German hatmaker
2v1riqb.jpg
The hat is gently used, very clean and crisp, only the sweatband is cracked
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2jfkvad.jpg
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Size is 60 cm or 7 1/2 Us, true size and confortable
30s7v5y.jpg
I take care to explore the inside of the sweatband because it is really fragile, so no pictures of the internal label, sorry!
 
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Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,215
Location
Verona - Italia
Mayser

This Mayser came along with the Wilke.
It is a real classic from the Alps: ribbon made with same material, fur felt, of the hat
xoik3t.jpg
142eqso.jpg
Very simple and moderate pliable, it's an everyday hat. Proportions are the same of the Wilke as the size
2ighe2f.jpg
Here the inside, without any label in paper.
2unvxcj.jpg
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Interesting the ventilated sweatband.
dh3cwm.jpg
v7tvk.jpg
My opinion is that this Mayser is not so old, from the 80 I guess
2qdwi3a.jpg
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Daniele, They look great! Not really clear what happened with Wilke after WWII. The original company (Guben, East Germany) didn't survive WWII but the brand name was picked up in West Germany. I found some information a while back but lost track of it. I think you are correct regarding the Mayser dating.
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
Hückel (Weilheim) Lutra, size 58cm, probably mid to late 1950s. Fantastic felt with very nice Velour finish. Also really like the black (felt) and green (ribbon) contrast.

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