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German & Austrian Hutmachers

PanosChris

Practically Family
Messages
979
Messages
17,549
Location
Maryland
Brent, Super find! Richard Schwarz Wien most likely sourced this hat. I can't tell the source but here is a Richard Schwarz Wien (not a Velour) found a while ago by Justin that that was sourced from Carl Ceschka Wien.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...chkas-söhne-wien/?do=findComment&comment=1776

Here is an 1929 article by Richard Schwarz.

https://germanaustrianhats.invision...man-the-hat—-the-gentleman-1929/#comment-3096
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Brent, Super find! Richard Schwarz Wien most likely sourced this hat. I can't tell the source but here is a Richard Schwarz Wien (not a Velour) found a while ago by Justin that that was sourced from Carl Ceschka Wien.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/204-carl-ceschkas-söhne-wien/?do=findComment&comment=1776

Here is an 1929 article by Richard Schwarz.

https://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/topic/646-die-bühne-wien-kleider-machen-leute-der-hut-—-den-herrn- von-kommerziairat-richard-schwarz-the-stage-vienna-clothes-make-the-man-the-hat—-the-gentleman-1929/#comment-3096


Thanks for the information, Steve. This hat will be looking for a home if you know anyone who is might be interested. I just want to cover my costs on this.
 

Wangenheim

Familiar Face
Messages
95
We refer to this type of brim edge as an overwelt. It is original to the hat: it was made this way and not modified at some later point. This is a common brim edge.
Of course such an edge is common, but it looks off. Also that the brim is wavy in an unpleasent way seems to stem from this. If it's done by factory it's done much cleaner.
 
Messages
18,590
Location
Nederland
Of course such an edge is common, but it looks off. Also that the brim is wavy in an unpleasent way seems to stem from this. If it's done by factory it's done much cleaner.
Have to disagree on this. That's not what I see when looking at the pictures at all. When brim modifications are done, and they do happen, they tend to be simple in execution: the brim is cut, folded over (or under) and stitched. That is not what we see here. The perceived waviness comes from folding the front of the brim down, fedora style, which is not how this hat was constructed and was meant to be worn.
 

Wangenheim

Familiar Face
Messages
95
Have to disagree on this. That's not what I see when looking at the pictures at all. When brim modifications are done, and they do happen, they tend to be simple in execution: the brim is cut, folded over (or under) and stitched. That is not what we see here. The perceived waviness comes from folding the front of the brim down, fedora style, which is not how this hat was constructed and was meant to be worn.
Ah, now I see, only the first picture is taken in the right brim position. The others with the brim forced down, which is causing the mess. Thank you!
 

Wangenheim

Familiar Face
Messages
95
There isn’t a right or wrong brim position. The brim wasn't “forced down” anymore than it was forced up. These hats can be worn many ways, and one is as correct as the other.
I think Steur is right, when he says: "The perceived waviness comes from folding the front of the brim down, fedora style, which is not how this hat was constructed and was meant to be worn."
 

Wangenheim

Familiar Face
Messages
95
So upset of being wrong? Sorry for that.

I postet a couple of hats in the past. Feel free to look it up. But that seems to be another childish reaction, not a real wish.
 
Messages
17,549
Location
Maryland
Brüder Böhm, Daniel Zikeli Wien "Rekord", 58cm possibly later 1950s. Based on the paper label I believe this Homburg was made by Brüder Böhm and sourced by Daniel Zikeli Wien.

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53351638108_8d03221e6b_h.jpg


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I found Daniel Zikeli in the "Austrian Hat Industry Guide (1926)" as Daniel Zikely Wwe. (Widow) so he had passed away. The location "X. Laxenburgerstr. 30" is the same as the what is printed on the Liner and stamped on the Sweatband.

15755047427_96f8e937a4_b.jpg
 
Last edited:

Mean Eyed Matt

One Too Many
Messages
1,146
Location
Germany
Early this year I found the Franz Gober, München 25th Anniversary book (1927),
of which Steve has already posted the specimen from the Gothisches Haus Museum.
45420686vd.jpg

45420685jk.jpg

Since he shows the complete book on his homepage, including the translation
(and here in FL it has to be), I won't duplicate it:
https://germanaustrianhats.invision...er-münchen-f-g-m/?do=findComment&comment=1330
I would like to show a few shots of fantastic hats and extravagant felts:
Velour, Longhair, Heathered, Plaid, Spiral Stitch, ... Look, enjoy and be amazed!
45420683mp.jpg

45420681pp.jpg

45420680jo.jpg

45420677so.jpg

45420676wq.jpg
 

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