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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
A new addition to the collection. A hat I picked up yesterday and I'm quite happy with because I haven't got one of these yet. For lack of a real brand name: Prima Qualitäts Velourhut, dark blue (not black), size 57 (5 on the label), 6 cm brim and 10,5 cm crown at the
pinch, unlined. More a longhair finish than a velour if you ask me, but who's complaining? "Der Hut mit der Krone" on the label, but no idea who the maker was or about it's age. An older one, judging by the sweatband and bow. Late forties, early fifties maybe?

Stefan, Great find! I am not sure who made it. The paper label format doesn't ring a bell. I think your dating is ok. The description on the left is interesting.

Echter / Prima Velour requires Hare fur + hot wet brushing (originally manual, manual + auto, just auto) during felting. I don't think the nap is long enough to be considered Soleil which can be Echter / Real Velour same with Flamand if Hare + hot wet brushed during felting. Have you looked at this article (essential reading if you are interested in Velour or Specialty finishes)?

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/216-hair-velour-real-echter-velour-prime-prima-velour-fabrikation-von-damen-und-herren-filzhüten-der-deustchen-hutmacher-zeitung-1933/?hl=echter

From above article.

(The unclipped (unshorn) velour hair is called “Flamand”, in this case the hair is long, undulated, soft and glossy as it reflects a lot of light. When the tips are clipped off and the hair is ironed all around or from top to bottom one talks about “Soleil”. Most difficult is the production of upright “open” Velour because in this case a particular tightness (or density?) and sturdiness of the hair is necessary and it is significantly harder to produce the same amount of gloss as where an entire, smooth surface displays.)

This hat is a good example because it uses the description "Echter Velour - Soleil".
I am not sure if I have encountered another hat that makes this distinction.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/281-echter-velour-soleil/

Usually the hat is marked Echter or Prima Velour or nothing. For example this S. J Fraenkel which I would say is Echter Velour - Soleil but no description.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/12-s-j-fraenkel-wien/#entry1190
 
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Messages
18,382
Location
Nederland
Steve, thanks. Yes, I have read that article before and I must say I've come to appreciate these velour and longhair hats more and more. Here's another one I have that might interest you. Spezial in black, size 55 (marked 4 on the liner). No label or markings and the sweatband was torn when I bought it (I confess I even worsened it by stretching the hat a bit to fit me). A nice shiny felt with a 6 cm overwelt brim. Judging by the liner material and bow it's an old one.

spezial_1.jpg spezial_2.jpg spezial_3.jpg spezial_4.jpg spezial_5.jpg spezial_6.jpg spezial_7.jpg
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
Stefan, I guess my point is not all long hair finishes are equal. Ecther / Prima / Real Velour should meet the parameters that are listed / mentioned in the article. From the article I posted.

"Most difficult is the production of upright “open” Velour because in this case a particular tightness (or density?) and sturdiness of the hair is necessary and it is significantly harder to produce the same amount of gloss as where an entire, smooth surface displays."

Max Wiess Berlin (M.W.B.) Stolzf. Luxury Velour (very tight with high gloss)

11298549403_06a98a4bcb_b.jpg


Here's another one I have that might interest you. Spezial in black, size 55 (marked 4 on the liner). No label or markings and the sweatband was torn when I bought it (I confess I even worsened it by stretching the hat a bit to fit me). A nice shiny felt with a 6 cm overwelt brim. Judging by the liner material and bow it's an old one.

View attachment 72432 View attachment 72433 View attachment 72434 View attachment 72435 View attachment 72436 View attachment 72437 View attachment 72438

The Velour looks really great on this "Spezial". Again there isn't anything I can connect to a specific hat company. I agree this one looks like an older one.

Thanks for posting all these fantastic hats! Keep them coming!
 
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Messages
18,382
Location
Nederland
Steve (Mayserwegener) posted some great pictures here earlier of Mayser advertising. One of them showed the Hut Seidl shop, which is located in Munich and the name rung a bell. Digging through my hats I came op with this one. Echter Mayser in black, size 57 with bound and triple stitched edge, brim 7 cm and 10,5 cm crown at the pinch. Somehow this hat has quite a bit of flair to it. Interesting about this one is that it shows that Hut Seidl had its own label for Mayser hats.

mayser schwarz_01.jpg mayser schwarz_02.jpg mayser schwarz_03.jpg mayser schwarz_04.jpg mayser schwarz_06.jpg mayser schwarz_07.jpg mayser schwarz_08.jpg mayser schwarz_09.jpg mayser schwarz_10.jpg mayser schwarz_01.jpg mayser schwarz_02.jpg mayser schwarz_03.jpg mayser schwarz_04.jpg mayser schwarz_06.jpg mayser schwarz_07.jpg mayser schwarz_08.jpg mayser schwarz_09.jpg mayser schwarz_10.jpg
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Steve (Mayserwegener) posted some great pictures here earlier of Mayser advertising. One of them showed the Hut Seidl shop, which is located in Munich and the name rung a bell. Digging through my hats I came op with this one. Echter Mayser in black, size 57 with bound and triple stitched edge, brim 7 cm and 10,5 cm crown at the pinch. Somehow this hat has quite a bit of flair to it. Interesting about this one is that it shows that Hut Seidl had its own label for Mayser hats.

View attachment 72728 View attachment 72729 View attachment 72730 View attachment 72731 View attachment 72732 View attachment 72733 View attachment 72734 View attachment 72735 View attachment 72736 View attachment 72728 View attachment 72729 View attachment 72730 View attachment 72731 View attachment 72732 View attachment 72733 View attachment 72734 View attachment 72735 View attachment 72736
Over the top! A black beauty with rich history. Another favorite Stefan!
 
Messages
18,382
Location
Nederland
The German and Austrian hatmakers excelled at velour hats, so I thought I'd post this one. Esko Spezialmarke, size 56 in a lovely rich brown colour. No label in this one (except it's size), but I do know it's age due to a german newspapier behind the sweatband, dated 6 januari 1960. Brim 6 cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Don't know who the maker is of this one (I believe Esko te be just a brand name).


esko_1.jpg esko_2.jpg esko_3.jpg esko_4.jpg esko_6.jpg esko_7.jpg
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
Steve (Mayserwegener) posted some great pictures here earlier of Mayser advertising. One of them showed the Hut Seidl shop, which is located in Munich and the name rung a bell. Digging through my hats I came op with this one. Echter Mayser in black, size 57 with bound and triple stitched edge, brim 7 cm and 10,5 cm crown at the pinch. Somehow this hat has quite a bit of flair to it. Interesting about this one is that it shows that Hut Seidl had its own label for Mayser hats.
Stefan, Sorry for my late reply. I was at a national fencing tournament this past weekend. Fantastic Hut Seidl - Echter Mayser! There was a J.A. Seidl Hutfabrik. The companies combined in 1921 so this is why the Seidl shops had a strong link to Mayser.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/244-hutfabrik-j-a-seidl-münchen/
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
The German and Austrian hatmakers excelled at velour hats, so I thought I'd post this one. Esko Spezialmarke, size 56 in a lovely rich brown colour. No label in this one (except it's size), but I do know it's age due to a german newspapier behind the sweatband, dated 6 januari 1960. Brim 6 cm and crown 10cm at the pinch. Don't know who the maker is of this one (I believe Esko te be just a brand name).
72857[/ATTACH]

Stefan, Super! The "Esko" brand is Ernst Köln which was a men's dress store in Köln. They sold Mayser and other companies but also had their brand plus purchased trademarks of former companies like Möckel. I think the newspaper date is probably close to the production date.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/62-ernst-koln/
 

moehawk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,826
Location
Northern California
I seem to be making a Habig of posting here...
This one arrived yesterday. An eBay find, it looked to be in decent shape, so I took a chance and got it cheap. A bit dirty, and with a sweatband beginning to dry, it got a naptha bath and a Lexol-ing. The color really popped after the bath, and the sweat seems to be responding to the moisturizing. I was hoping for full sun for pics, but got good color despite the overcast.
P. & C. Habig "Zefir-Zefir":

ffa1561595d95f421e26f2a929a1feda.jpg
03a98298754e0fc52bc710dcfc406ed9.jpg
4fa7941f54a55f5d2b76bafcbc51642e.jpg
85dc038e457d1d5bcc28b61c0977f52a.jpg


The color shifts a lot in the different light, as the previous pics show. Here's the insides:

becc1b0e40e9c79a7d062c5055b19b65.jpg


Oops...forgot to pull that hanging loop tight...and that light colored stuff under the tip patch is residue from old tape adhesive. It is coming off slowly.

9360b1a7a5dfa45374a50daef18073dc.jpg
73114a4da55af5c8c8fdcb67ec3fc088.jpg
914812b36460176bef831ee33cea5cdb.jpg


The tip patch had some wear, and I believe it may have faded more in the naptha. Here's the tag:

ca64132fd129b74d9b8abf50a1e838b6.jpg


If the tag theory holds up, it was made in 1950. I'm not confident at this time to turn out the sweat and look for a date stamp.
Creased:

1c4007a83f7173f5e883442381d2c2bf.jpg
0bf23a75a96629691dbf1e3c39c3905a.jpg


And a head shot:

5f284d8365ceeaf9ea8ce5806ded9337.jpg


Specs:
Crown 5" open, deeply cupped brim a hair shy of 2 1/4" with an overwelt. 5/8" ribbon. A nice summer weight at 95 grams. The felt is thin, light and soft, with just enough stiffener to keep a crease. Another fine example of the wonderful craftsmanship from P. & C. Habig Wien.




Powered by happy thoughts
 
Last edited:
Messages
18,382
Location
Nederland
Stefan, Super! The "Esko" brand is Ernst Köln which was a men's dress store in Köln. They sold Mayser and other companies but also had their brand plus purchased trademarks of former companies like Möckel. I think the newspaper date is probably close to the production date.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/62-ernst-koln/
Steve, thanks for the comments and the additional information on both the Mayser and the Esko. I had been googling for Esko but that didn't turn up anything. Another bit of the rich German and Austrian hat history.
 
Messages
18,382
Location
Nederland
P. & C. Habig Wien "Special / Spezial Qualität", 58cm, 1957 (based on paper label). This one is NOS condition and was export to Gust. Holmsberg Eftr., Lund, Sweden.

34261579075_c2cc6d48da_b.jpg


33451794293_97471a400a_b.jpg


33878026930_5919fa3659_b.jpg


34104764342_935cb5ce1e_b.jpg


33877570710_ee83d7f912_b.jpg


34130740941_d4eab5f3f7_b.jpg
Another stunning looking hat and great example of Habig quality all around. They seem to have kept that embossing of the sweatbands longer than other companies.
 
Messages
18,382
Location
Nederland
I seem to be making a Habig of posting here...
This one arrived yesterday. An eBay find, it looked to be in decent shape, so I took a chance and got it cheap. A bit dirty, and with a sweatband beginning to dry, it got a naptha bath and a Lexol-ing. The color really popped after the bath, and the sweat seems to be responding to the moisturizing. I was hoping for full sun for pics, but got good color despite the overcast.
P. & C. Habig "Zefir-Zefir":

ffa1561595d95f421e26f2a929a1feda.jpg
03a98298754e0fc52bc710dcfc406ed9.jpg
4fa7941f54a55f5d2b76bafcbc51642e.jpg
85dc038e457d1d5bcc28b61c0977f52a.jpg


The color shifts a lot in the different light, as the previous pics show. Here's the insides:

becc1b0e40e9c79a7d062c5055b19b65.jpg


Oops...forgot to pull that hanging loop tight...and that light colored stuff under the tip patch is residue from old tape adhesive. It is coming off slowly.

9360b1a7a5dfa45374a50daef18073dc.jpg
73114a4da55af5c8c8fdcb67ec3fc088.jpg
914812b36460176bef831ee33cea5cdb.jpg


The tip patch had some wear, and I believe it may have faded more in the naptha. Here's the tag:

ca64132fd129b74d9b8abf50a1e838b6.jpg


If the tag theory holds up, it was made in 1950. I'm not confident at this time to turn out the sweat and look for a date stamp.
Creased:

1c4007a83f7173f5e883442381d2c2bf.jpg
0bf23a75a96629691dbf1e3c39c3905a.jpg


And a head shot:

5f284d8365ceeaf9ea8ce5806ded9337.jpg


Specs:
Crown 5" open, deeply cupped brim a hair shy of 2 1/4" with an overwelt. 5/8" ribbon. A nice summer weight at 95 grams. The felt is thin, light and soft, with just enough stiffener to keep a crease. Another fine example of the wonderful craftsmanship from P. & C. Habig Wien.




Powered by happy thoughts
It may need a bit of TLC but then the reward is there allright. Great looking hat.
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
I seem to be making a Habig of posting here...
This one arrived yesterday. An eBay find, it looked to be in decent shape, so I took a chance and got it cheap. A bit dirty, and with a sweatband beginning to dry, it got a naptha bath and a Lexol-ing. The color really popped after the bath, and the sweat seems to be responding to the moisturizing. I was hoping for full sun for pics, but got good color despite the overcast.
P. & C. Habig "Zefir-Zefir":

ffa1561595d95f421e26f2a929a1feda.jpg
03a98298754e0fc52bc710dcfc406ed9.jpg
4fa7941f54a55f5d2b76bafcbc51642e.jpg
85dc038e457d1d5bcc28b61c0977f52a.jpg


The color shifts a lot in the different light, as the previous pics show. Here's the insides:

becc1b0e40e9c79a7d062c5055b19b65.jpg


Oops...forgot to pull that hanging loop tight...and that light colored stuff under the tip patch is residue from old tape adhesive. It is coming off slowly.

9360b1a7a5dfa45374a50daef18073dc.jpg
73114a4da55af5c8c8fdcb67ec3fc088.jpg
914812b36460176bef831ee33cea5cdb.jpg


The tip patch had some wear, and I believe it may have faded more in the naptha. Here's the tag:

ca64132fd129b74d9b8abf50a1e838b6.jpg


If the tag theory holds up, it was made in 1950. I'm not confident at this time to turn out the sweat and look for a date stamp.
Creased:

1c4007a83f7173f5e883442381d2c2bf.jpg
0bf23a75a96629691dbf1e3c39c3905a.jpg


And a head shot:

5f284d8365ceeaf9ea8ce5806ded9337.jpg


Specs:
Crown 5" open, deeply cupped brim a hair shy of 2 1/4" with an overwelt. 5/8" ribbon. A nice summer weight at 95 grams. The felt is thin, light and soft, with just enough stiffener to keep a crease. Another fine example of the wonderful craftsmanship from P. & C. Habig Wien.

Powered by happy thoughts
Super! It's hard to find a non-Trachten American Market P. & C. Habig Vienna (changed from Wien for export). Is the last number a 0 or 9?
 
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
Steve, thanks for the comments and the additional information on both the Mayser and the Esko. I had been googling for Esko but that didn't turn up anything. Another bit of the rich German and Austrian hat history.
Stefan, Thanks! Some of the strange names like this one are distributors, whole sellers or retail outlets.

Here is a Hut Seidl München that I was able to determine the company was Mayser by the paper label format (no mention of Mayser).

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/3-mayser-hutfabrik/page-5#entry804
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,467
Location
Maryland
Another stunning looking hat and great example of Habig quality all around. They seem to have kept that embossing of the sweatbands longer than other companies.
Stefan, Thanks! I think this one was formed by P. & C. Habig Wien so this would be a common setup for such hats in that time period. I am basing this on a couple other P. & C. Habig Wien Homburgs I have that are from same time period and came formed in a similar manner (see link below). They can easily be made open crown so maybe manually formed on wooden blocks.

http://germanaustrianhats.invisionzone.com/index.php?/topic/5-p-c-habig-hutfabrik/page-3#entry390
 
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