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German & Austrian Hutmachers

Messages
17,515
Location
Maryland
Biber, 59cm, very good condition, probably late 1950s. A German hat shop (Wilhelm Maushard, Schopfheim) model with no maker marks. I assume it has some Beaver (Biber) content based on the name. Unique bow design and very nice felt finish / color.

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DesertDan

One Too Many
Messages
1,582
Location
Arizona
That is a great hat!
Everything about it is just right (it's even in my size too :D).
Classic and elegant!
 
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Messages
17,515
Location
Maryland
Daniele, Thanks! It's my size too. :)

Ole, Thanks! Yes it's basted. I was told they should be removed at point of sale but I never remove them from vintage hats.
 
Messages
17,515
Location
Maryland
Partial View of the Garnishing Hall (Sweatband Preperation & Insertion), Mayser (1925)​

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Notice the no machines for sewing the ends of the reeded sweatbands because they were taped and then hand stitched to the hat. In the front right corner they are preparing the sweatbands (installing the reed, ect). I do not recall ever seeing a photo of sweatband preparation and installation from this time period so rare.

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Messages
17,515
Location
Maryland
Mike, It's also interesting how many people were involved the total production process. Today that area (Ulm, Germany) has some the highest labor costs in Europe. I think in general the working conditions (written and photos evidence) were very good in German and Austrian owned hat factories (especially the major / famous ones) of that time period.

Alan, Thanks!
 

ingineer

One Too Many
Messages
1,088
Location
Clifton NJ
mayserwegener;

Very cool looking bow on that Biber
Loved those old photos.
Would have told those carpenters to pick up a broom.
Balancing a air handling system with blast gates is still an engineering accomplishment today.
Usually a lot of trial and error
Seems as if the felt dust was addressed even earlier than 1925.
Here is NJ standards for 1915, hope not off topic.
http://books.google.com/books?id=es...AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=hat felt dust fires&f=false

Richard
 
Messages
17,515
Location
Maryland
Thanks! I am not sure when the air handling system was installed at Mayser (they mechanized in the mid 1800s). I know the Germans and Austrians hat factories had such air handling systems systems in the very early 1900s (maybe earlier).

I just posted a photo of the Pouncing (sanding) Department at Mayser (see below) which is discussed in the book you posted. You will see the machine on the far left is a closed system and the others have hoods to capture the dust. This method of dust collection goes back to the late 1800s.
 
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Messages
17,515
Location
Maryland
Pouncing Department, Mayser (1925)​

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