Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

[EvaDress]

Correction for 1934 Trouser Pattern

Hello All,

I feel awful about the flaw in my 1934 Men's Trousers pattern, but I have posted the remedy for it on my blog here:

http://www.evadress.blogspot.com

and I will tell you here that the fix is quite simple-lower the back crotch 'hook' 1-1/2" from its current placement, but maintain the location of the back inside leg edge.

Do not hesitate to e-mail me with questions and I will be happy to guide-cheers!

 

[Lamplight]

I'm currently working on a linen cap. Not to actually wear (Because it doesn't look very good), but to learn some basic sewing techniques. All I have left to do is to attach the sweat band. So far it has gone reasonably well, and I'm looking forward to trying something else after I finish this. I'm hoping to make myself a pair of linen pants for summer, though I'm worried that may be a rather large project for a beginner who is sewing by hand. Regardless, I really enjoy this and will likely keep making things and hopefully getting better.

 

[Lamplight]

Well I finished my cap, and I must say it was no easy task. I'm hesitant to post a picture because it's quite ugly and I mainly made it to gain some experience. However, through some odd stroke of luck it actually fits me pretty well. lol It could stand to be a little deeper, but the diameter where it meets my head is just about perfect. The things I'm not happy with are the bill (I just butchered a baseball cap for the stiffener) and the curve at the front edge. It's just really sloppy. But overall, I'm reasonably proud of it, and for the most part the rest of the cap isn't too bad. It's similar to this, only kind of a sage green:

I'm tempted to make another one, because I know I could do better. But on the other hand I want to try something else.

 

[Nick D]

Lamplight, something I read about barrel-making: Your first barrel will leak like a sieve, your second will trickle, your third will seep, and your fourth will be water tight. The cap may not take four tries, but each one will be better than the last.

Here's something I recently finished, the 'Battle Jacket' from the EvaDress 1940s mens jackets pattern. The pattern does run a little small, this is a 42-44 and I'm a 42, it fits fine. If I were 44 I might want to go up a size. I used olive green lining, a rather lightweight wool for the jacket, and brass buckles for the sides. They're a bit too heavy for the purpose, I'll have to replace them when I find something more suitable.

The only deviations from the pattern are I used horse hair canvas instead of muslin for the front interface, and I also used it at the ends of the belt to help anchor the button. The pattern does not include interfacing in the collar, cuffs, or belt, perhaps due to wartime fabric rationing? I also didn't put a button at the top since I prefer to wear it open as it is, but I have a button and can sew it on later if I decide to.

All the buttonholes are hand-worked corded keyhole buttonholes.

I'd like to make the longer sports jacket from the pattern as well. I'll make another of these short ones when I find a heavier duty wool for colder weather.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[Luke 42]

Lamplight, something I read about barrel-making: Your first barrel will leak like a sieve, your second will trickle, your third will seep, and your fourth will be water tight. The cap may not take four tries, but each one will be better than the last.

Here's something I recently finished, the 'Battle Jacket' from the EvaDres 1940s mens jackets pattern. The pattern does run a little small, this is a 42-44 and I'm a 42, it fits fine. If I were 44 I might want to go up a size. I used olive green lining, a rather lightweight wool for the jacket, and brass buckles for the sides. They're a bit too heavy for the purpose, I'll have to replace them when I find something more suitable.

The only deviations from the pattern are I used horse hair canvas instead of muslin for the front interface, and I also used it at the ends of the belt to help anchor the button. The pattern does not include interfacing in the collar, cuffs, or belt, perhaps due to wartime fabric rationing? I also didn't put a button at the top since I prefer to wear it open as it is, but I have a button and can sew it on later if I decide to.

I'd like to make the longer sports jacket from the pattern as well. I'll make another of these short ones when I find a heavier duty wool for colder weather.

Cheers,
Nick

Oh my god, that is one amazing jacket How long did it take you to make that? I wish I could do something like that. I guess I'll have to learn to sew finally.

Once again: brilliant work

 

[BellyTank]

Fantastic work.
Love those buttonholes- details.


B
T

 

[Nick D]

Thanks, Luke and BT. It only took a few days, in the evenings mostly.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[barra063]

This is more an experiment in loading photos for the first time. I have been sewing for many years but that is mainly related to canvas work, upholstery and motor trimming. I am now interested in having a go at making a few clothing items. I have a pattern for a newsboy cap that I might tackle first. I also collect old industrial sewing machines but I think I will have to add a few domestics as well.

This is a plaited kangaroo belt that uses twin rings as the fastener. I also make smaller versions for hat bands.

This is a copy of a dive bag that I made. It has one huge main compartment and zippered side pockets. I got a little over zealous with the overall dimensions so as said this bag is huge.

Barra

 

[Fletch]

Make Do Project

After a year of being reluctant to use the sewing machine, I resolved to put a panel in some favorite old shorts that were too small and had no selvage to let them out.

I got as far as stitching in the triangular portion and the bottom edge of the waistband panel before the machine started tangling thread, jammed the motor (temporarily), and bent a needle.

I blame the instruction manual. I needed it to thread the machine, but it was unclear on several fine points of threading, which I believe caused the jam.

Once I feel like starting from page one again and get rest of the waist panel sewn down, I'll install the belt loop over everything, like so:

 

[Fletch]

My gosh, this machine sewing is not a straightforward procedure. There is a lot of "learning without teaching" that needs to happen.

One or two important turns of the thread around some dingus or doohicky are shown only in diagrams, with no caption or text to point them out, as if any idiot should know. Then there's the engagement of upper and lower threads. I read over that bit for about 5 minutes without being able to make it happen. I'm still not sure how I made it happen - again, as if any idiot should know.

Then there's "looping." That's when the lower thread won't pull the upper thread tight enough. There's a tension knob to put more taut into the thread (per the book), but guess what? It doesn't do a blinkin' thing about the looping. Tension up? Looping. Tension down? Looping. So I had to do those seams over - looping again. Hope they'll hold.

I finished the panel job enough that it holds together, but only with some quick handstitching. (No pictures. Please.)

Of course, part of learning anything is dealing with vague instructions. I've always approached them the way I approach vague people - I start out in all good faith and slowly begin to feel as if I'm being tested, toyed with, or just strung along. I need to learn a new approach.

Anyway, it'll be a little while before I try machine sewing again.

 

[Nick D]

Barra, great belt and bag. Do you have a picture of a hat with the band?

Fletch, that's how I feel about some very old patterns I've picked up at flea markets. They basically give you the pieces and a 'good luck!'

It sounds like there may be a problem with your bobbin case. If you load the bobbin into a metal sleeve, feed the thread through this, and then put it in the machine, check that there's a little screw on the case. Tightening this should help, because it sounds like you've got no tension on the bobbin thread. If you load the bobbin straight into the machine I'm not sure what you'd do to tighten it, the manual might say. What brand and model machine do you have?

 

[Fletch]

Cheap@ss Brother. Present from the family. Plastic case, plastic bobbins (no screws in evidence), digital stitch controls.

Looks sorta like this. No idea of model, there are dozens of them.

The bobbin has you run thread thru a notch in a spring (located underneath a little curvy sliver of plastic cover so you can't see the notch), then up thru a channel and out a cutter. The spring is supposed to tension the thread, but doesn't somehow, and the book doesn't tell you what might go wrong.

Like most stuff these days, I suspect it is all overengineered and underbuilt.

 

[Bugsy]

Nick, this is one of your best ensembles to day. Perfect in every detail!:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

Lamplight, something I read about barrel-making: Your first barrel will leak like a sieve, your second will trickle, your third will seep, and your fourth will be water tight. The cap may not take four tries, but each one will be better than the last.

Here's something I recently finished, the 'Battle Jacket' from the EvaDress 1940s mens jackets pattern. The pattern does run a little small, this is a 42-44 and I'm a 42, it fits fine. If I were 44 I might want to go up a size. I used olive green lining, a rather lightweight wool for the jacket, and brass buckles for the sides. They're a bit too heavy for the purpose, I'll have to replace them when I find something more suitable.

The only deviations from the pattern are I used horse hair canvas instead of muslin for the front interface, and I also used it at the ends of the belt to help anchor the button. The pattern does not include interfacing in the collar, cuffs, or belt, perhaps due to wartime fabric rationing? I also didn't put a button at the top since I prefer to wear it open as it is, but I have a button and can sew it on later if I decide to.

All the buttonholes are hand-worked corded keyhole buttonholes.

I'd like to make the longer sports jacket from the pattern as well. I'll make another of these short ones when I find a heavier duty wool for colder weather.

Cheers,
Nick

 

[Tomasso]

Nick, I envy your skills. For a layman, you got it goin'.

 

[barra063]

Barra, great belt and bag. Do you have a picture of a hat with the band?

Fletch, that's how I feel about some very old patterns I've picked up at flea markets. They basically give you the pieces and a 'good luck!'

It sounds like there may be a problem with your bobbin case. If you load the bobbin into a metal sleeve, feed the thread through this, and then put it in the machine, check that there's a little screw on the case. Tightening this should help, because it sounds like you've got no tension on the bobbin thread. If you load the bobbin straight into the machine I'm not sure what you'd do to tighten it, the manual might say. What brand and model machine do you have?

Nick. Have a look at page 49 of Akubra overload for a plaited roo hat band.

 

[Nick D]

I finished this last night. I copied the pattern pretty closely from a 1940s waistcoat I have. The front is fully canvassed, the back is belted, the bottom button is tailored to be open, and the side vents have proper thread tacks. The back is black satin, the front is a wool suiting blend, and the lining is a synthetic striped material. Six hand-worked corded keyhole buttonholes, and the buttons all have thread shanks.

I have another pair of the '34 EvaDress trousers in the same material that I made, though I haven't posted pictures of them yet, and I will be making a single breasted jacket, as well. The trousers need mending, though, I need to do a little repair on the crotch, and I think I'm going to let the waistband out a little (the blue ones always fit a little tight, I think I was too generous on the seam allowances by mistake.)

I also plan on making a double breasted three piece suit in linen, and I will be able to use this waistcoat pattern for that.

 

[djgo-cat-go]

I finished this last night. I copied the pattern pretty closely from a 1940s waistcoat I have. The front is fully canvassed, the back is belted, the bottom button is tailored to be open, and the side vents have proper thread tacks. The back is black satin, the front is a wool suiting blend, and the lining is a synthetic striped material. Six hand-worked corded keyhole buttonholes, and the buttons all have thread shanks.

I have another pair of the '34 EvaDress trousers in the same material that I made, though I haven't posted pictures of them yet, and I will be making a single breasted jacket, as well. The trousers need mending, though, I need to do a little repair on the crotch, and I think I'm going to let the waistband out a little (the blue ones always fit a little tight, I think I was too generous on the seam allowances by mistake.)

I also plan on making a double breasted three piece suit in linen, and I will be able to use this waistcoat pattern for that.

I'm so impressed!! :eusa_clap I need to get my sowing-skills together and start making the Evadress 40's battlejacket and 30's trousers!! I also have a 'hollywood'-jacket pattern that I really need to convert into something wearable..

 

[dakotanorth]

Vest?

Did you happen to take pictures along the way, during the construction? I've been really considering taking the leap into vests. I tried a welt pocket and it turned out rather well, but beyond that, nothing so far.

 

[Lamplight]

Great work as usual, Nick. :eusa_clap You certainly have talent and skill!

I haven't made anything since my hat, though I did add buttons for braces on a pair of pants, and I removed the overly thick lining from a tie and restitched it. My friend's wife told me I could borrow her sewing machine any time I like, but I kind of enjoy doing it by hand.

 

[Tourbillion]

My gosh, this machine sewing is not a straightforward procedure. There is a lot of "learning without teaching" that needs to happen.

One or two important turns of the thread around some dingus or doohicky are shown only in diagrams, with no caption or text to point them out, as if any idiot should know. Then there's the engagement of upper and lower threads. I read over that bit for about 5 minutes without being able to make it happen. I'm still not sure how I made it happen - again, as if any idiot should know.

Then there's "looping." That's when the lower thread won't pull the upper thread tight enough. There's a tension knob to put more taut into the thread (per the book), but guess what? It doesn't do a blinkin' thing about the looping. Tension up? Looping. Tension down? Looping. So I had to do those seams over - looping again. Hope they'll hold.

I finished the panel job enough that it holds together, but only with some quick handstitching. (No pictures. Please.)

Of course, part of learning anything is dealing with vague instructions. I've always approached them the way I approach vague people - I start out in all good faith and slowly begin to feel as if I'm being tested, toyed with, or just strung along. I need to learn a new approach.

Anyway, it'll be a little while before I try machine sewing again.

Thread looping can be incorrect threading as well as too loose tension. This is probably the top thread, not the bobbin. It sounds to me like the thread is missing the tension disks or the take up lever. A bent needle can cause problems too.