Gentlemen, show us what you've made!

[herringbonekid]

i just noticed that the chest pocket is on the opposite side to normal.

do you know which year the pattern drafting book (the one you used for the 20s jacket) was printed ?

 

[Qirrel]

i just noticed that the chest pocket is on the opposite side to normal.

do you know which year the pattern drafting book (the one you used for the 20s jacket) was printed ?

Chest pocket: :whistling (It doesn't make that much of a difference though.)

It was printed for the first time in 1920, the exact publication date is unknown. The pattern is probably the original from 1920.

 

[Mario]

also, when using those old pattern drafting books do you make a 'toile' first or just go straight to the final fabric ?

Please excuse my ignorance if it comes to the terms of the tailoring trade (especially in English), but what, pray tell, is a 'toile'?

 

[herringbonekid]

...but what, pray tell, is a 'toile'?

a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit. they wouldn't do this at a tailor's, but in designer collections / pattern cutting / dressmaking / theatrical costume it is very common.

 

[Mario]

Thanks!

 

[DeaconKC]

Marlo, I'm glad you asked that, because I didn't know what it was either! My Dad always said you should learn something new everyday.

 

[Nick D]

a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit.

An American alternative is a 'muslin', from the fabric used. What is called muslin in the US is more akin to UK calico.

 

[Qirrel]

Attaching stay tapes to the jacket fronts. The tape which is sewn to the inlay also acts as a bridle; it is held in tightly to force the fabric to clip in to the hips.

 

[Qirrel]

Putting on buttonhole stays:

Turning the facings and basting around the edge:

Facings completed:

 

[Anthony Jordan]

a rough version of the garment made out of inexpensive fabric (usually calico) to check the overall fit. they wouldn't do this at a tailor's, but in designer collections / pattern cutting / dressmaking / theatrical costume it is very common.

I understand that Frank Shattuck in NYC does, but that he is fairly unique in this respect.

 

[valentinogaremi]

Great job nick. you have made very beautiful skirt for your wife, she look stunning in it. I am also want to do some type of experiment but unfortunately I not get success in such type of work. Can you mention some tips here may be it'll help me. I'll wait for your reply.

 

[Qirrel]

A major breakdown in the sleeve department has halted progress on the green jacket, as I have run out of fabric to cut new sleeves from. In the meantime, another jacket, more simple in it's design.

Inside breast pockets:

Patch outer pocket with button:

Buttonhole; the quick version:

On the inside, two pieces of linen to strengthen the corners of the pocket:

 

[Shangas]

I wish I could be a tailor...this stuff looks so cool...

 

[herringbonekid]

this is some 1930s wool flannel suiting in about 18oz weight.
it came from the U.S. however, i can't conclude that it is American as many fabrics from the U.K. (and elsewhere) would have been imported at that time.

it is basically charcoal with a subtle blue windowpane:

although in some lights it looks blue-ish:

the next time you see it... it will be a suit.

 

[Mario]

Looking forward to it - it's a beautiful fabric!

And who's going to make that suit?

 

[herringbonekid]

And who's going to make that suit?

that would be me.

 

[Mario]

that would be me.

Beats me, really...

Well, have a :eusa_clap - and there's more to come once the thing's finished.

 

[Qirrel]

that would be me.

Will it be your first? What pattern do you plan to use?

 

[herringbonekid]

and there's more to come once the thing's finished.

the suit is actually finished already... just giving you gents a bit of a lead in.

Will it be your first? What pattern do you plan to use?

no, i've made around 12 jackets, and many other less tailored items.
the pattern is my own. i basically took a couple of (moth damaged) 30s jackets apart and used them as a starting point for the pattern.

 

[Qirrel]

the suit is actually finished already... just giving you gents a bit of a lead in.



no, i've made around 12 jackets, and many other less tailored items.
the pattern is my own. i basically took a couple of (moth damaged) 30s jackets apart and used them as a starting point for the pattern.

You need to post them. There is much to discuss. Do you happen to have any construction pictures?