Gentlemen (and Ladies), I need your help

[Martinis at 8]

I'm not dignifying that with a response.

Oh c'mon. No need to get upset, and I saw your first response before you edited it.

I'm providing feedback to SinatraStyle based on my experience as a successful licensed P.E. working in an international environment. Korean businessmen (yes, I have had clients from there) are conservative by nature and formal. The advice I am providing to him is professional advice based on the facts he has provided that are specific to his situation.

What experience, other than being a student, do you base your advice on? I know you are currently a student (maybe back for graduate school?), but have you been an attorney, professional engineer, CPA, or other professional that has to work in an environment where Molloy principles have proven effective.

We're just talking suit colors here, no reason to get upset.

Cheers,

M8

 

[Fletch]

Yes, this discussion is getting a little sharp-edged.

martinis, I'm wondering if Molloy's guidelines have had much revision since the 80s. Is there really still a serious difference in perception between navy blue and charcoal grey? (as opposed to just "grey"?)

May I chime in on the earlier talk about 3B suits being a fad, not looking good on this or that body type, etc.? I've been wearing primarily 3B since the early 90s. At that ooint they were hard to find except in unconstructeds or the pseudo-trad roll-two style. I'm glad to see they've reestablished themselves so well and for so long.

One problem with 3Bs today is that often the buttons are set too close together, giving the jacket a short boxy look. This is suited best to medium-to-tall men, it's true, especially if the lapel is not meant to roll at all. I helped my 5'6" dad out with a seersucker last year. The 3B jacket sorta "crashed" in on itself around the top button on his smaller frame, so he went with the 2B.

Being long-torso'd and relatively short-legged (30" inseam at 5'11"), I find the best looking 3B has a rolled lapel, functional top button, and buttons not too tightly spaced. This creates the illusion of greater length without the jacket skirt being too long.

Thru the good offices of Marc Chevalier, here's a picture of how a truly traditional 3B suit ought to look, from Esquire in 1939.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Yeah... simmer down before I start edititing.

You're right about the 3 button models of today. I posted a few times on the differences between fit and cuts. They make them different enough to the point that nowadays it's uncomfortabe to wear them with the top two buttons fastened.

 

[Martinis at 8]

...but discrediting someone's opinion based on that they are still in school...

No one has discredited your opinion. You have simply been asked what other experience you have to counter my professional advice, other than being a student. For all I know you may be back in graduate school for an MBA after being out in business. Perhaps you are being defensive due to your experiences on other forums, as you have stated.

In any case, I have alerted the mods to this discussion, as I wouldn't want to be labelled a new troll simply because of a color discussion, and perhaps different outlooks on life than what you may have.

Cheers,

M8

 

[Martinis at 8]

...martinis, I'm wondering if Molloy's guidelines have had much revision since the 80s. Is there really still a serious difference in perception between navy blue and charcoal grey? (as opposed to just "grey"?)...

I think the color schemes are timeless. The colors do move forward with the styles, so Mabro and Canali makes it in today's business world. But one also needs to take into account is that the young reader of Molloy in the 80's is probably the guy/gal in the boardroom or upper decision-making level today. So the Molloy research still has a great impact in the business world.

Grey is good, just suggesting Navy as a starter for a young engineer, would probably be a better choice. Especially for engineers, and more so in doing business in S. Korea.

Cheers,

M8

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Talk to others in your profession about what your customers would expect to see coming through the door. Obiously you have one such advisr here already. If they expect blue or black go with the blue (since you have black already). If they won't be fazed by grey it's a toss up. Grey will make you stand out a bit from the other busy bees in your office - see a thread from a couple weeks ago re: business drones. If you don't mind that i'd go with grey just because it can be a little more interesting.

bk

 

[SinatraStyle]

Thank you all for your opinions! But please keep things civil. I don't want people stepping on toes over suit colors and who is or is not the most qualified to make recommendations. Keep in mind, gentlemen, I have asked only for opinions.

To get back to color...I could easily go with grey or blue. Either would fit my position, and I always have my black suit to fall back on if I feel that blue or grey may be out of place. My professional environment is my number one consideration, but I am also keeping other occasions in mind: dates with my wife (yes, we still do that); church; etc.

Another influence will be my fabric selections at the taylor. I don't want to pull fabrics into the discussion, but types of material and pattern availability may affect my decision as well.

Again, thank you all for your input...keep it coming!

 

[SinatraStyle]

Well, I'm a bit disappointed. With my work and travel schedule I didn't have an opportunity to have a suit made. Maybe on the next trip.

Just the same, thank you all for your advice.

 

[Small Town Girl]

I'm glad that the smoke cleared before I entered this discussion! SinatraStyle, since this thread said Gentlemen and Ladies, I thought that I would throw in my two cents.I think that grey and navy are great suggestions.This may sound really odd, but you could always get a color that matches/compliments your eyes.

 

[Jovan]

I'm sorry it didn't work out, but in the meantime, you can always look for good brands on heavy discount. Brands like Brioni, Corneliani, Kiton, Borrelli, Oxxford all make really good suits and turn up on eBay a good deal.

 

[SinatraStyle]

I'm glad that the smoke cleared before I entered this discussion! SinatraStyle, since this thread said Gentlemen and Ladies, I thought that I would throw in my two cents.I think that grey and navy are great suggestions.This may sound really odd, but you could always get a color that matches/compliments your eyes.

It's always good, and sometimes better, to have a lady's opinion. And not a single guy here mentioned my eyes .

Seriously though, thank you all. I'm going to be looking on the racks and maybe I will get lucky and find a good fit. The last "off the rack" suit I bought actually had a good fit and nice high arm holes, but the quality could be better.

 

[Martinis at 8]

It's always good, and sometimes better, to have a lady's opinion. And not a single guy here mentioned my eyes ...

Uh, that would be 'cuz we're guys

 

[Cobden]

I'd also take into account hair- in my eyes, medium and light grey doesn't look right on men with fair hair. I'd also go for three buttons - if it doesn't look right, you can always press it so the lapel is lengthened, covering up the top button and with half the top buttonhole shewing on the other lapel - something I've seen on a lot of vintage jackets, and I think looks rather nifty! I'd also go for some pattern, perhaps a subtle pinstripe (not overly garish), unless you go for flannel or a similar material. If you for brown, I'd say a pattern is a must - perhaps a subtle Price of Wales check.

Then again, I'm also a fan of brown shoes and blue suits, so maybe my ideas shouldn't be listened to!

 

[SinatraStyle]

Then again, I'm also a fan of brown shoes and blue suits, so maybe my ideas shouldn't be listened to!

I also like the look of brown shoes with blue suits. You don't see it much today.

 

[Cobden]

In the UK, it's considered a bit of a no-no, although I don't know why - t'is hardly keeping a hat on indoors...