Game changer fix for Aero // \\ pattern issue

[red devil]

It looks to me simply like the difference between an ‘off the peg’ jacket eg size XL etc. and a ‘bespoke’ jacket. In short an off the peg is never going to be a perfect fit whereas a bespoke jacket made specifically for you taking into account a wide range of your measurements, will be a perfect fit but of course will cost many thousands of dollars/pounds Between off the peg and bespoke lies ‘tailor made’ where a few more measurements than a simple size of chest measurement applies to ensure a better fit. Adding shoulder pads has simply made your jacket a better fit on the shoulders for your build but it’s quite possible it would be a good fit without the pads on another person. Further as others have said, these fit issues are common to any brand and not specific to Aero. If you’re buying off the peg or tailor made the trick is to find a brand or style whose pattern suits your build. For example Lee 101 jeans have always fitted me better than Levi 501’s.

Sometimes an OTR jacket will fit you as well as a perfectly executed bespoke jacket.

 

[born113]

a lot of us have the aero fit issue of too much tension on the neck and creating crease lines that shoot from the neck diagonally towards the armpits

Thank you. This message is a pleasure for me. This means that Aero's cuts are made for people with shoulders like mine.

 

[Cyber Lip]

It seems to be a couple of things that cause this...shoulders being too level i.e.; not enough built-in slope, and the way the collar is built-in i.e.; if there's too much tension happening at the collar.

In regards to Aero, I've had several and only one had this issue...a CXL Premier Highwayman. And it came this way brand new right out of the box...a severe crease that ran from the collar to the armpit on one side. The other side had one also, but was less severe. But yeah, I tried to live with it for a year and ended up selling it because of that, because it looked and felt awful.

Why some jackets do this and others of the same pattern and build don't, I think probably comes down to the individual pieces of leather used. Certain patterns are pre-disposed to doing this but may not if the leather itself is sturdy enough and cut and oriented properly. Plus the way it's sewn up by the sewer. If the sewer is fighting and struggling with it while sewing it up, weird tensions that pull in undesirable directions can sort of be built into the jacket by doing that. It's most likely down to a few factors going wrong, a perfect storm if you will... the pattern + the quality of the leather used + the way individual pieces are cut and sewn together.

Wrinkles and creases are one thing, but a 'severe' case of what we're talking about here looks terrible and just plain sucks. Nothing's worse than going to the effort and expense of planning and buying one of these and then feeling stupid because it look like garbage. In that case you'd have been better off just buying some $179 piece of crap at the mall. The result would be the same...a crappy looking jacket, but at least you'd still have most of your $$, and your self-respect LOL

 

[born113]

If you want to wear a crappy looking jacket, you may as well have just gone to the mall and bought some $179 piece of crap

It can be cheaper. And without leaving home. ALIBABA copy of Aero

 

[Aloysius]

I’m all for people getting a better fit however they get it done…but as an Aero bash…that dog won’t hunt.
Edit: I don’t think anyone in this thread has bashed Aero for their patterns but I’ve heard it enough around here and I believe it’s complete and utter nonsense.

Nonsense! Didn't you know that the definitive way to know all of a maker's pattern strengths and weaknesses is to buy one jacket in the wrong size?

 

[Monitor]

Different builds theory doesn't hold any water. We're not all that different. I'm pretty sure that anyone who has handled Langlitz and Aero can immediately see there's something wrong with the latter. Coincidentally, I never saw a Langlitz jacket suffer from these shoulder to armpit diagonal lines - though I personally couldn't care less about them and only realized it's even considered a problem, after seeing number of people posting about it.

Aero jackets could and should be as comfortable as Langlitz jackets. It's not the leather, it's not skiving and it's not stitching. It's just pattern and that can be reworked.

 

[ton312]

Sigh, double sigh, triple sigh and again. Two Aero’s. See my two CR’s below, same pattern, different jackets. If it truly were a “pattern problem” would they not both display the creases that have folks shaking in a corner? Of course they would. And yet neither one does.

@Monitor the langlitz comparison isn’t a very good one. Countless tales of people having to to return their jackets for fit issues and…they have their own problems. I would take my absolute worst Aero over the monstrosity below any day of the week and twice on Sunday.

The best Langlitz ever did belongs to Colin and if memory serves, he had to send it back for them to get it right. I believe their patterns suffer from “fat guy” fit as most the jackets appear to be spheres with sleeves.

 

[Will Zach]

I had a Taubers CR that that had this problem (both the creases and the feeling of weight on the back of the neck). It was a very lightweight jacket (around 3 lbs), but the feeling of weight on the back of the neck was so awful that I sold it asap. The overall fit was good (jacket was neither too big or too small for me, just right), but the pattern was imo faulty. I say faulty because I am a slim, kinda regular-built guy (5.9, 145 lbs), and I don't believe my build contributed to this problem at all. I cannot fathom how people put up with this problem with jackets that weigh 5-6 lbs.

 

[Frame]

Sometimes Langlitz does get it right though... here's mine from a few years back.

 

[Brandrea33]

Sometimes Langlitz does get it right though... here's mine from a few years back.

View attachment 394011

That’s an eerie photo crop lol. Love the look of this jacket on you!

 

[ton312]

Sometimes Langlitz does get it right though... here's mine from a few years back.

View attachment 394011

Good point! I forgot about yours and they did indeed get that one right!

 

[marker2037]

That’s an eerie photo crop lol. Love the look of this jacket on you!

I thought it was a mannequin for a second lol

 

[Frame]

You’re right guys, that is a weird looking effect - if I recall, I used the eraser button and it kind of blended my head into the background colors lol.

 

[Aloysius]

Different builds theory doesn't hold any water. We're not all that different. I'm pretty sure that anyone who has handled Langlitz and Aero can immediately see there's something wrong with the latter.

This depends quite a lot on the garment. Certain jacket types only fit right if the size is right. Others will work sized up and down (within reason), giving a different look both ways.

However certain jacket types just don’t allow for it at all. Even from a maker like Vanson that is famous for great pattern work.

To buy such a jacket in the wrong size is not enough to form a definitive statement on Aero’s terrible patterns and garbage workmanship… especially given that the same jacket went on to fit someone else (who was the right size) perfectly. This is the basis for most of the most vocal anti-Aero posters.

I take your criticisms far more seriously because you have worn many jackets from Aero and others and don’t fetishize any manufacturers or countries or leathers.

(Every time I see someone drool over Shinki as if it’s one thing, I laugh, because Shinki makes many leathers, some of which, like their shell, are absolutely terrible and were used exclusively by super cheap shoes until the more recent fixation on Shinki led to expensive— to be clear, even then only the makes fetishized by the workwear crowd, not reputable old world makers— shoes using it to cash in.)

 

[born113]

Sometimes Langlitz…
View attachment 394011

Gorgeous photo

 

[red devil]

Sigh, double sigh, triple sigh and again. Two Aero’s. See my two CR’s below, same pattern, different jackets. If it truly were a “pattern problem” would they not both display the creases that have folks shaking in a corner? Of course they would. And yet neither one does.
View attachment 393993 View attachment 393994
@Monitor the langlitz comparison isn’t a very good one. Countless tales of people having to to return their jackets for fit issues and…they have their own problems. I would take my absolute worst Aero over the monstrosity below any day of the week and twice on Sunday.
View attachment 393995 View attachment 393996
The best Langlitz ever did belongs to Colin and if memory serves, he had to send it back for them to get it right. I believe their patterns suffer from “fat guy” fit as most the jackets appear to be spheres with sleeves.

This an OTR Langlitz

In terms of range of motion, it is the best of all my jackets, I can do push ups with it lol

All the Aeros I tried on were much more restrictive, CXL and Vicenza.

(Every time I see someone drool over Shinki as if it’s one thing, I laugh, because Shinki makes many leathers, some of which, like their shell, are absolutely terrible and were used exclusively by super cheap shoes until the more recent fixation on Shinki led to expensive— to be clear, even then only the makes fetishized by the workwear crowd, not reputable old world makers— shoes using it to cash in.)

I definitely agree that at the moment Shinki is put on a pedestal, and I have mentioned this before. Although I have not handled their shell and cannot comment on that. As far as I know their leathers show a lot of variability, you can get very good hides and much worse. With some makers having to return batches that were not considered good enough.

Edit: typo

 

[Aloysius]

I definitely agree that at the moment Shinki is put on a pedestal, and I have mentioned this before. Although I have not handled their shell and cannot comment on that. As far as I know their leathers show a lot of variability, you can get very good hides and much worse. With some makers having to return batches that were not considered good enough.

Edit: typo

And to be clear, there is nothing wrong with Shinki producing everything from low quality to very high end leathers. That's what every tannery does, and it's a good thing.

It's just very funny to me that the online hype over Shinki has reached such a point that flawed batches (that would have been sent back a few years ago) are spun into being 'the mark of true handmade craftsmanship', or that their low end products are now treated as high end.

I remember when, something like 13 years ago, people discovered Shinki shell and thought it might be a good alternative to Horween's product… then discovered why it's so cheap and used only by corner-cutting shoe companies. Now you see $1500 Shinki shell boots targeting the Shinki-hyped workwear market.

 

[El Marro]

Sometimes Langlitz does get it right though... here's mine from a few years back.

They got mine right as well, on the second try…

 

[ton312]

They got mine right as well, on the second try…
View attachment 394142

They absolutely did.

 

[Blackadder]

And to be clear, there is nothing wrong with Shinki producing everything from low quality to very high end leathers. That's what every tannery does, and it's a good thing.

It's just very funny to me that the online hype over Shinki has reached such a point that flawed batches (that would have been sent back a few years ago) are spun into being 'the mark of true handmade craftsmanship', or that their low end products are now treated as high end.

I remember when, something like 13 years ago, people discovered Shinki shell and thought it might be a good alternative to Horween's product… then discovered why it's so cheap and used only by corner-cutting shoe companies. Now you see $1500 Shinki shell boots targeting the Shinki-hyped workwear market.

Shiniki does make cheaper shell cordovan because it had been used in school bags. Yes school kids in Japan used to carry shell cordovan briefcase and rucksack to school. You can read about it on Leder Ogawa's website. They now switched to higher end products with more vibrant color and shinier coating but I guess they still have not improved much on the process.
Horween Shell is likely the best in the market in terms of dyeing and processing but Horween also has a lot of flawed batches that got out (rumour is through staff) to the market. Those are sometimes hailed as special color but are actually rejects. Not to mention the hype about rare colored shell.
Maryam is closer in terms of quality to Horween than Shiniki.