G-1 Drop

[Mike_Honcho]

By searching the forums I've developed a good feel for which brands run narrow versus those which run wide, such as G&B. What I can't tell is which have the largest drop from chest to waist. I have a 45" chest and a 33" waist. Which brand would fit me the best? Is there any hope for an off-the-rack jacket fitting me well, or do I have to go bespoke? For custom, is Aero the best option for the money? I'm in the U.S., so American brands would be a cheaper option. Thank you for any advice.

 

[Fanch]

Most of us probably envy your V shaped 12" drop from chest to waist. Years ago when I was in the US Navy, I had a 44" chest and 34" waist, and my issued G-1 was very loose at the waist, accentuated by the somewhat relaxed waistband of a single layer of rib-rack, which was the way the G-1 was constructed then. I suggest that you contact Gibson & Barnes by telephone and ask for their input regarding their standard issue G-1. Others on the Forum can direct you to additional sources in the US. Expect a custom Aero G-1 to cost you 2-3 times as much as a standard high quality G-1 in the US.

 

[Gromulus]

47"/33" here but my height/weight (5'7"/208#) make it even tougher to find a good fit. Until my finances warrant a custom jacket I did find a used "historical" horsehide G&B A-2 on eBay sometime back in a size 44S. While the chest is a bit tight the shoulders, sleeve length, and waist are a decent fit (according to my wife and friends) if a bit snug. Not much room to wear a sweater but I usually just wear the jacket over a shirt anyhow.

YMMV but you may want to check out Gibson & Barnes. They do make their standard jackets in regular, short, and long sizes - unlike most other "off the rack" manufacturers. At least the gathered knit bottoms of the G-1 and A-2 models help snug things up at the waist

 

[Mike_Honcho]

Thank you. I was issued a 46R G-1 while in the Marines. It fits in the chest but is too long everywhere and loose in the waist. I'll contact G&B and post what I find out. Thanks again.

Most of us probably envy your V shaped 12" drop from chest to waist. Years ago when I was in the US Navy, I had a 44" chest and 34" waist, and my issued G-1 was very loose at the waist, accentuated by the somewhat relaxed waistband of a single layer of rib-rack, which was the way the G-1 was constructed then. I suggest that you contact Gibson & Barnes by telephone and ask for their input regarding their standard issue G-1. Others on the Forum can direct you to additional sources in the US. Expect a custom Aero G-1 to cost you 2-3 times as much as a standard high quality G-1 in the US.

 

[Mike_Honcho]

47"/33" here but my height/weight (5'&"/208#) make it even tougher to find a good fit. Until my finances warrant a custom jacket I did find a used "historical" horsehide G&B A-2 on eBay sometime back in a size 44S. While the chest is a bit tight the shoulders, sleeve length, and waist are a decent fit (according to my wife and friends) if a bit snug. Not much room to wear a sweater but I usually just wear the jacket over a shirt anyhow.

YMMV but you may want to check out Gibson & Barnes. They do make their standard jackets in regular, short, and long sizes - unlike most other "off the rack" manufacturers. At least the gathered knit bottoms of the G-1 and A-2 models help snug things up at the waist

Thank you for the reply. Knowing you're able to fit into a 44 is quite helpful. I think at my 69" height a 42R from G&B might work out well.

 

[Gromulus]

Thank you for the reply. Knowing you're able to fit into a 44 is quite helpful. I think at my 69" height a 42R from G&B might work out well.

No problem. If you lift than you will need a jacket that has sufficient shoulder and arm room and the G&B cut seems to allow for these as well as chest/lat girth.

 

[Fanch]

Thank you for the reply. Knowing you're able to fit into a 44 is quite helpful. I think at my 69" height a 42R from G&B might work out well.

When I visited the G&B factory in San Diego a couple of years ago, I must have tried on every jacket there! As I recall, their military issue G-1 did not seem to run quite as large as some of the others, and you might find that a 42R is too small for you in the chest and shoulders. In fact, with a 45" chest, you might not be able to breathe with the jacket zipped! Again, I would recommend that you call the G&B factory and give them as much information as possible, keeping in mind that G&B's G-1's are worn by Naval and Marine Corps aviators.

 

[Peacoat]

First of all, welcome to the Lounge.

There are several good custom jacket builders. I have had two jackets built recently from Johnson Leathers in San Fransisco. Excelent quality with about 2 to 4 week wait time, and several hundred $$ less than Aero.

Good luck if you can find something off the rack. PC.

 

[Mike_Honcho]

First of all, welcome to the Lounge.

There are several good custom jacket builders. I have had two jackets built recently from Johnson Leathers in San Fransisco. Excelent quality with about 2 to 4 week wait time, and several hundred $$ less than Aero.

Good luck if you can find something off the rack. PC.

Thanks for the advice. I didn't realize they did military jackets. I will certainly get in touch with them if I decide to go the custom route.

 

[Mike_Honcho]

When I visited the G&B factory in San Diego a couple of years ago, I must have tried on every jacket there! As I recall, their military issue G-1 did not seem to run quite as large as some of the others, and you might find that a 42R is too small for you in the chest and shoulders. In fact, with a 45" chest, you might not be able to breathe with the jacket zipped! Again, I would recommend that you call the G&B factory and give them as much information as possible, keeping in mind that G&B's G-1's are worn by Naval and Marine Corps aviators.

I'll call them with my measurements and go with their recommendation. I'll let you know how things turn out. G&B should at least take care of the length issue since I can order a short if I have to go 44 or 46. Thanks again.

 

[Aerojoe]

I have a 45" chest and a 33" waist.

Similar chest/waist measurements here but I have big shoulders too. I purchased The Cockpit Mil Spec in Size 42 and it fits me like second skin. I had to cut the sleeves though. G-1 bi-swing back is perfect too address shoulders problem.

 

[Mike_Honcho]

Similar chest/waist measurements here but I have big shoulders too. I purchased The Cockpit Mil Spec in Size 42 and it fits me like second skin. I had to cut the sleeves though. G-1 bi-swing back is perfect too address shoulders problem.

Thank you. I didn't realize their G-1 was so tapered. I'll be in NYC soon and will swing by their showroom.

 

[cuthbert]

By searching the forums I've developed a good feel for which brands run narrow versus those which run wide, such as G&B. What I can't tell is which have the largest drop from chest to waist. I have a 45" chest and a 33" waist. Which brand would fit me the best? Is there any hope for an off-the-rack jacket fitting me well, or do I have to go bespoke? For custom, is Aero the best option for the money? I'm in the U.S., so American brands would be a cheaper option. Thank you for any advice.

Bill Kelso is based in Europe, but they make custom jackets of high quality.

BTW we have the same problem, I've a 39" chest and a 29" waist.

 

[bretron]

IMO i say go true vintage. A lot of the late 50s contracts run wide in the top and taper significantly to the waist.

 

[Aerojoe]

Thank you. I didn't realize their G-1 was so tapered. I'll be in NYC soon and will swing by their showroom.

The sizing of Cockpit different G-1 models is different. Try all of them and you'll probably find the perfect fit for you Their vintage G-1 is tighter than the mil spec.

 

[kojax]

i have the cockpit vintage g1 goatskin nice jacket true to size .