From Lawman to Outlaw. What have McCoys done with this jacket?

[Blackadder]

Many here have seen the Joe McCoy Mobster jacket. I am sure most if not all have made the connection between it and the CHP jacket. And since FW founder used to be in charge of JM, many deduce that the Muholland may have been a modified Mobster (IMO it is a Frankenstein of a few jackets like CHP+Highwayman front, Highwayman /Luftwaffe back).
So if the Mobster is a copy of CHP, which CHP is it? There are a few which came very close. Terry has a vintage police jacket with the same cuff and all but it has button down collar which is different. So, close but not quite.
After I bought my Mobster, I have taken an interest in finding out. I went so far that I bought the vintage CHP in question so I can take a closer look. I think we have a winner here and that is the Californian CHP jacket.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

The Mulholland is fascinating. With most Freewheelers jackets, you can find the original jackets they're reproducing. With the Mulholland, you can't. As you said, it's a mishmash of many things, but it works so well. Interesting that their most popular jacket in the west is not a repro.

 

[Rgcards]

The Mulholland is certainly strange

 

[tmitchell59]

A common Style of police jacket going back to the 30s. Here are a few examples.

Seattle Woolen Company c.1939

Very similar, not a heavy weight jacket. Pony on this one. No belt loops and I don't think they have been removed.

This is an unlabeled Seattle Woolen Company as above. This has a mismatched zippers.

unlabeled late 30s Goatskin police jacket

Lake O'Woods

 

[Blackadder]

Thank you Terry. All those close calls but not quite. It seems that I forgot to post the one photo showing yet another special feature on the Mobster and the Californian.

the underarm gusset.

 

[ton312]

To me both jackets are simply tweaked versions of a classic LAPD CHP. No reinventing the wheel, just a classic design, tweaked ever so slightly, modernized a bit and made wearable at generally more acceptable lengths. Both well exectuted but certainly a far cry from original scholarship...

 

[Blackadder]

To me both jackets are simply tweaked versions of a classic LAPD CHP. No reinventing the wheel, just a classic design, tweaked ever so slightly, modernized a bit and made wearable at generally more acceptable lengths. Both well exectuted but certainly a far cry from original scholarship...

You are certainly right. Not just a general CHP but an actual variation of the CHP by the Californian.
Having said that, isn't that what vintage inspired brands like FW, MF, Nigel Cabourn or Maison Magiela do? Furthermore, aren't Lewis Leather Corsair and Dominator tweaked, modernized copies of the very classic French Cycling jacket which got adopted by the Luftwaffe even earlier.
Coming back to the Mobster. I think most would agree that RM is more a vintage repro company which usually produce rather accurate repros (their military jackets, their Bucos). RM's founder and later owner of TM did make an accurate repro of the Californian (even came with the Orange County Disneyland police badge).

FW's founder and then JM director on the other hand may lean towards vintage inspired hence the modification on the Mobster and the renaming which is possibly an inside joke.

 

[tmitchell59]

I thought FW used the Trojan label in the Mulholland? Perhaps it is a Trojan?

The Californian looks to be 1950s vintage with that light colored quilt lining.

 

[Blackadder]

I thought FW used the Trojan label in the Mulholland? Perhaps it is a Trojan?

The Californian looks to be 1950s vintage with that light colored quilt lining.

Thank you Terry. There is a steerhide version with side laces. I think that may be a later model?
The Spartan label on the Muholland may be another inside joke.

https://basecampvintage.com/2016/01...californian-leather-motorcycle-patrol-jacket/

 

[tmitchell59]

Thank you Terry. There is a steerhide version with side laces. I think that may be a later model?
The Spartan label on the Muholland may be another inside joke.

I've always liked everything about the Mulholland except the price! Combined price of all the jackets above would not buy a Mulholland, maybe half a jacket!

I don't have a FW but I do have a couple of older cousins.

Interesting the Mul may be a California Sportswear jacket. They were the biggest and one of the best. The vast array of jackets they produced is amazing.

Good detective work on your part!

I have a Californian like the one you pictured with the collar. I guess this will just have to do

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Blackadder @tmitchell59
Does the vintage straight zip CHP jackets come with padded shoulders?
The Xzip CHPs all scream "Face down on the ground!" without actually words. The straight zip ones definitely looks more like the friendly neighborhood block watch. Different jackets for different neighborhoods?

 

[Blackadder]

@Blackadder @tmitchell59
Does the vintage straight zip CHP jackets come with padded shoulders?
The Xzip CHPs all scream "Face down on the ground!" without actually words. The straight zip ones definitely looks more like the friendly neighborhood block watch. Different jackets for different neighborhoods?

No padded shoulder on mine. I just bought another straight zip, a quite faithful repro of an original police jacket from the 40s according to Rin Tanaka. A faithful copy even down to the label.

From Rin Tanaka's book

 

[Canuck Panda]

Nice one. It's always an extra nice touch when the repro does the labels too.

 

[tmitchell59]

@Blackadder @tmitchell59
Does the vintage straight zip CHP jackets come with padded shoulders?
The Xzip CHPs all scream "Face down on the ground!" without actually words. The straight zip ones definitely looks more like the friendly neighborhood block watch. Different jackets for different neighborhoods?

These jackets emphasize the square look with straight level shoulders.. I may have pads on one from the 30s.

I don't know if one style over the other was preferred for a particular area. Comfort/ease of use seems more likely.

The Box like fit of my new Californian is nice. The only taper would could through the use of side laces. Interesting how California Sportswear changed the specs on these jackets.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Interesting. There's always a story behind why things are done/changed the way they did. History tend to center around the kings and queens but its really the everyday mysteries that gets me going.