FRIED PORK…aka…Hat stretching disaster.

[Magus]

Ok…this is my first BIG mistake in hat resizing. I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later.

I received a very nice Adam porkpie in the mail yesterday and it was just a little tight. So…I flipped down the sweatband and moistened the leather and checked its integrity, put the tea pot on to boil, flipped the sweatband back up inside the hat and gently steamed the crown…first the outside then the inside to relax the felt, all steps that I have taken before.

When I turned the hat back over to slip in the stretcher to my dismay the sweat band had warped/melted/shrunk to about a size 6. It was totally ruined. It seems that what I though to be the finished side of the leather (which is what it appeared to be when I examined it) was actually a plastic/rubber compound that was bonded to the leather. The heat of the steam turned it into a mangled mess. I totally removed it and the end result is that I have a nice late 50’s early 60’s Adam porkpie hat with good lining and no sweatband…strangely enough…the hat fits perfectly now. I am considering just leaving it out and wearing it as it or maybe just putting a ribbon sweatband.

So…hopefully someone will learn from my mistake. If anyone has suggestions for a very thin sweatband installation I am open to hearing them

M

 

[mthatter]

erased by mt

 

[Magus]

Magus,

RULE #1--Never steam the inside of a hat with the sweat still in, sorry you learned that one the hard way.

John
www.rockymountainhatcompany.com

Point taken...lol...I won't do it again. I guess I have just gotten lucky in the past.

 

[johnnycanuck]

Good to know. I will keep that in mind next time I want to stretch a hat. For myself I would put something in the hat to stop the sweat. Maybe get some stripes of leather or something. I got a few from the Alberta Boot Company when I was down there last. For sizing, but they are the right size for a sweat band. I over heat really easily so it is a must for me unless I want sweat stains showing threw. That is also the reason I am looking at buying a pith Helmet this summer. Lawn mowing season and all. That's my two cents worth.
Johnny.

 

[Matt Deckard]

A sad sad tale.

If you really like the hat... you should resweat the felt.

 

[Andykev]

You are not alone

My beautiful Cavanagh had a very similar hat leather. It was just a tad snug, even though the hat was the correct size. I used the same kettle steam and the same thing happened to me. It shrank and "melted" like the dickens. Boy was I mad. Then I had the sweatband replaced by Optimo, and the hat cleaned and blocked. This is now one of my best vintage hats. The leather Graham put in was the high quality ones he is using. Made a big difference.

I recommend, if I may, if the hat is perfect, you send it to Optimo for a clean and block and a new sweat. You won't be disappointed. It will set you back about $50. Well worth it for a clean, uneaten vintage that will last you another 50 years.

 

[Visigoth]

We need a Hat Care FAQ

This advice is amazingly useful, and really should be collected in one place. I mean, I've already steamed the inside of a hat, luckily with no heinous results, but I sure wouldn't have if I'd read this. Where would be a good place to archive Crucial Hat Stuff?

(And especially with the search function so primitive, this is necessary.)

 

[Snrbfshn]

I'm an experienced sweatband cooker...

Learned the hard way. This likely-'30s, beautiful Stetson 3X arrived with an immaculate, soft, pliable sweatband:

I steamed it up real good to shape it, flipped it over and was horrified to see I'd cooked the band. Now it's hard, crinkled and cracked on the edge.

Dang it.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Can't get into the links you provided. Would really like to see these images. Help!

 

[GWD]

I just had the same results with my "new" Whippet only I didn't use steam I was using Lexol in the inside of my sweatband to treat the leather and all of the sudden the finished side of the band just cracked up and withered away!

I just wrote Art Fawcett to ask him if he could replace it.

 

[Spellflower]

Wow, what a nightmare! So what are the lessons we can learn from this? From the earlier posts, it sounds like one should simply avoid steaming the inside of a hat. But now Lexol causes it?

I have a gorgeous Resistol that's a size small, and I've been planning on lubing it up with Lexol, moistening it with distilled water, and sticking it on the stretcher. How can I avoid this? Or do I just have to take my chances?

 

[Andykev]

Wow a steaming post from the past

Since this post is about two years old now..

I don't think you can "guess" or "surmise" anything.

I have had vintage hats with sweats that took steam and heat excellently.

Then the example above where it melted like the Witch in Wizard of Oz.

You need to examine the sweat and see if it may have some bonded application, or some very brittle leather.

AS ALWAYS, if your felt body is "MINT" you can replace all the trimmings.

Enjoy.

 

[Spellflower]

Thanks, Andy. My Resistol's sweat seem to be ordinary (but very nice) leather. I guess I'll give it a shot.

 

[jimmy the lid]

So what are the lessons we can learn from this? From the earlier posts, it sounds like one should simply avoid steaming the inside of a hat. But now Lexol causes it?

I have had nothing but excellent results with Lexol, and I now make it a point to apply it to all of my vintage sweats.

Cheers,
JtL

 

[bolthead]

If the sweat is leather and in good shape. I don't use any Lexol at all to stretch. I just dampen with water alone and never had a problem yet. [huh]

 

[Spellflower]

You're tellin' me I paid over ten bucks for nothin?!? :eusa_doh:

 

[Stoney]

Ive never had any problems with steam melting a sweatband.. Like Andykev said you need to examine them first. I also use Pecards Antique Leather Conditioner, rather than Lexol, and have seen no issues with it. [huh]

 

[GWD]

I have had nothing but excellent results with Lexol, and I now make it a point to apply it to all of my vintage sweats.

Cheers,
JtL

When I get home tonight I'll take a photo of my Lexol treated sweatband. I guarantee you will gasp in horror!! It literally melted.

 

[Spellflower]

GWD, did you notice anything unusual about the sweat? (I mean before it melted.) Have you sworn off Lexol for good, or do you think it was just this one hat that wasn't a good mix?

 

[GWD]

GWD, did you notice anything unusual about the sweat? (I mean before it melted.) Have you sworn off Lexol for good, or do you think it was just this one hat that wasn't a good mix?

I did the exact same thing about 10 minutes before with another hat with no ill effects. The first sweatband was in a Stetson Royal De Luxe with a wide light brown sweatband. The result was very nice. The Whippet sweat band did seem thinner and a little "fuzzier" on the inside. Everything was going well until finished then about 15 seconds later the entire finished side of the band started to crack and shrink and warped like a "Shriky Dink" I don't know if you remember "Shinky Dinks". Imagine the Horror!!!! It made me sick to my stomach! It's headed to Optimo tonight for a complete cleaning and repair.