French Hats and makers.

[Rmccamey]

Excellent hats, sir. Panos will be proud!

Also discovered by and reserved for Panos:
A. Berteil - St. Germain black fedora with original hat box
with the open crown at 13 cm and the raw edge brim at 5 cm.
The fur felt is relatively thick but as Daniele said some time ago:
very soft in touch "and with a peachy surface".
The hat box is interesting because apparently another big name
of the French hat industry was once stored in it as well.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Again a new French beauty:
Thibet "LUXE" bowler/derby respectively chapeau melon
The only label inside is an embroidered fabric label "BURGUNDER Romain".
Sold at Caésar Wolfram - successor J. Laforgue in Thann/France.
So far I have found nothing about the hat manufacturer/seller.
Great wool felt - Super overall condition - Nice proportions.
The best thing is the unusual and fantastic lining.
My dating idea would be 40s - a feeling based on the lining.
Original size tag: 60 cm / 6 1/2 Punti / 7 3/8 English size.
Is more like a 59 and with cork strips it fits me.

 

[steur]

Again a new French beauty:
Thibet "LUXE" bowler/derby respectively chapeau melon
The only label inside is an embroidered fabric label "BURGUNDER Romain".
Sold at Caésar Wolfram - successor J. Laforgue in Thann/France.
So far I have found nothing about the hat manufacturer/seller.
Great wool felt - Super overall condition - Nice proportions.
The best thing is the unusual and fantastic lining.
My dating idea would be 40s - a feeling based on the lining.
Original size tag: 60 cm / 6 1/2 Punti / 7 3/8 English size.
Is more like a 59 and with cork strips it fits me.

That is certainly a beauty, Matt, Congrats! Really like that liner.

 

[TheGuitarFairy]

Finally got a sunny day to try to get some pics of this Gelot. Still can't really capture the green.
Anyway, a very light hat .. felt's longhair that's a pleasure to hold.

 

[steur]

Finally got a sunny day to try to get some pics of this Gelot. Still can't really capture the green.
Anyway, a very light hat .. felt's longhair that's a pleasure to hold.
View attachment 348470
View attachment 348471
View attachment 348472
View attachment 348473

Nice find and looks good. So, what's the verdict overall?

 

[TheGuitarFairy]

Ha! Right? Forgot that part, Stefan. I dig the hat! Pleasantly surprised and pleasantly informed as it's interesting to me how so "much" felt can weigh so little. Sweat is very um ... utilitarian: basically a nice piece of leather attached very capably but without the glory I associate with fine hats. Not crazy about ribbon but who am I to doubt the style of the French? I do love hat's proportions and it feels great on my head. It might even stick around my house for awhile, we shall see.

 

[steur]

Ha! Right? Forgot that part, Stefan. I dig the hat! Pleasantly surprised and pleasantly informed as it's interesting to me how so "much" felt can weigh so little. Sweat is very um ... utilitarian: basically a nice piece of leather attached very capably but without the glory I associate with fine hats. Not crazy about ribbon but who am I to doubt the style of the French? I do love hat's proportions and it feels great on my head. It might even stick around my house for awhile, we shall see.

Thanks for that. More or less as expected: felt is very nice, but ribbons and sweats are usually ho-hum affairs. There are better French hatters, but those weren't located on Place Vendôme in Paris. For those not in the know: it's very much in the upscale part of Paris. To be fair though: Gelot was one of the few French hatters who did wide brimmed hats on a regular basis, likely as a service to its many foreign customers.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

In my research, from time to time, I also have luck, or rather perseverance

This magnificent Flechet has had a troubled life. Purchased, the seller has disappeared for two weeks, then the bank details have arrived for payment. After the expedition, the hat was lost in Europe and then returned to its base in France. Sent back, he disappeared again and at my request for information I was told that my address was incomplete. After the verification of the mendacity of the statement I moved the European post without having any feedback. I lost a great hat it was my weightlifter. Then my children phoned me about a package that arrived with countless stickers and read the sender, with extreme difficulty, I calmed down

Flechet in black velour size 5 French (57 centimeters) or 7 in the United States.

This is the third Flechet velour I find this year. The difference with its "brothers" is the texture and weight of the felt. the previous two were light and the surface very soft, this is much denser and heavier with a more evident "hair"
The paper label says it's quality is "President" and there is another stamp inside the sweatband I forget to copy


Probably, looking closely at the lining, it can be deduced that from the aforementioned awards this is older than its brothers I had in the previous months

The sun allowed me to highlight the velour finish of the felt, but for those who are curious here is also the diffused light version

The dimensions of the Flechet, probably made in the late 1920s, first 1930s are as follows: brim 6cm, the ribbon is 5cm and the crown at its lowest point is 10.5cm

A hat arrived in perfect condition like the other centenarians found in this "miraculous catch"
Here the photographic set "en plein air" at the base of the wisteria in a hot summer afternoon

 

[mayserwegener]

In my research, from time to time, I also have luck, or rather perseverance
View attachment 348680
This magnificent Flechet has had a troubled life. Purchased, the seller has disappeared for two weeks, then the bank details have arrived for payment. After the expedition, the hat was lost in Europe and then returned to its base in France. Sent back, he disappeared again and at my request for information I was told that my address was incomplete. After the verification of the mendacity of the statement I moved the European post without having any feedback. I lost a great hat it was my weightlifter. Then my children phoned me about a package that arrived with countless stickers and read the sender, with extreme difficulty, I calmed down
View attachment 348684 Flechet in black velour size 5 French (57 centimeters) or 7 in the United States.
View attachment 348689
This is the third Flechet velour I find this year. The difference with its "brothers" is the texture and weight of the felt. the previous two were light and the surface very soft, this is much denser and heavier with a more evident "hair"
The paper label says it's quality is "President" and there is another stamp inside the sweatband I forget to copy
View attachment 348691
View attachment 348699
Probably, looking closely at the lining, it can be deduced that from the aforementioned awards this is older than its brothers I had in the previous months
View attachment 348703
The sun allowed me to highlight the velour finish of the felt, but for those who are curious here is also the diffused light version
View attachment 348709
The dimensions of the Flechet, probably made in the late 1920s, first 1930s are as follows: brim 6cm, the ribbon is 5cm and the crown at its lowest point is 10.5cm
View attachment 348721
A hat arrived in perfect condition like the other centenarians found in this "miraculous catch"
Here the photographic set "en plein air" at the base of the wisteria in a hot summer afternoon
View attachment 348725

Daniele, Super find! I am really happy your perseverance paid off! The Velour looks fantastic and as you mentioned in perfect condition. Also great overall form!

 

[PanosChris]

Not sure if this one belongs here. It could be English made originally. Unfortunately no labels.

The finish is quite coarse and the content feels mostly wool. The bow and wind cord made me pull the trigger on this one

 

[mayserwegener]

Not sure if this one belongs here. It could be English made originally. Unfortunately no labels. View attachment 349664 View attachment 349665 View attachment 349666 View attachment 349667 View attachment 349668 View attachment 349669 View attachment 349670 View attachment 349671
The finish is quite coarse and the content feels mostly wool. The bow and wind cord made me pull the trigger on this one

Panos, Super find! I think it's from the Continent and probably French. Use of cm and French Point sizing. Also the Form, Felt + Finish and Components.

 

[steur]

Not sure if this one belongs here. It could be English made originally. Unfortunately no labels. View attachment 349664 View attachment 349665 View attachment 349666 View attachment 349667 View attachment 349668 View attachment 349669 View attachment 349670 View attachment 349671
The finish is quite coarse and the content feels mostly wool. The bow and wind cord made me pull the trigger on this one

How did I miss this one? Fantastic find, Panos. Flechet used those size labels inside their (early) hats. Here's an example from a Flechet Foulard hat:

 

[drmaxtejeda]

D'Arsac. I could only find one very small reference to this brand by @Tonio

in the Lounge. Does anyone know something about it?

 

[Tonio]

D'Arsac. I could only find one very small reference to this brand by @Tonio View attachment 356352 View attachment 356353 View attachment 356354 View attachment 356355 View attachment 356356 View attachment 356357 View attachment 356358 View attachment 356359 in the Lounge. Does anyone know something about it?

Hi Max,

Great looking hat! I did a little digging and it appears that D’Arsac was an artist / designer of high end neckties.

This was posted by @carouselvic https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-life-western-issue-march-1956.61748/

 

[drmaxtejeda]

Hi Max,

Great looking hat! I did a little digging and it appears that D’Arsac was an artist / designer of high end neckties.

View attachment 356450

View attachment 356464 View attachment 356462 View attachment 356463

This was posted by @carouselvic https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-life-western-issue-march-1956.61748/
View attachment 356488

Wow! Thanks, Tonio!

 

[Just Daniel]

GREAT research!

Hi Max,

Great looking hat! I did a little digging and it appears that D’Arsac was an artist / designer of high end neckties.

View attachment 356450

View attachment 356464 View attachment 356462 View attachment 356463

This was posted by @carouselvic https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-life-western-issue-march-1956.61748/
View attachment 356488

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Despite the outsized heat, summer also brings some gems

French hat branded FA size 5 1/2 or 7 1/8 probably made in the 1920s.

Difficult to find a hat of this shape and finish among those I have in my collection or seen passing by friends and FL fans.

First of all it has a very high ribbon, 5 cm. pleated, second has the brims (6.5 cm) edged with black ribbon and very inflexible by today's standards, which means that they were in position as you can see. Maybe a little more well arranged, but time has made some changes.

The shape is that of the hats of that period and I have not made the pinches in the crown which is 12 centimeters high at its lowest point. Felt is fantastic for its softness and surface finish.

Completely unlined, it bears the FA mark and no other indications, also because there are no paper labels under the sweatband

The brand seems to me at first sight unknown among the ones I have seen, but I will try more in depth

We see the size and Andrea's shop who sold it in Culan (a French commune of 805 inhabitants located in the Cher department in the Center-Val de Loire region).

This FA, let's call it that, is another of the summer sins considering that it is not my size, although it could almost be, but it is asking too much of such a beauty

 

[mayserwegener]

Despite the outsized heat, summer also brings some gems

French hat branded FA size 5 1/2 or 7 1/8 probably made in the 1920s.

Difficult to find a hat of this shape and finish among those I have in my collection or seen passing by friends and FL fans.

First of all it has a very high ribbon, 5 cm. pleated, second has the brims (6.5 cm) edged with black ribbon and very inflexible by today's standards, which means that they were in position as you can see. Maybe a little more well arranged, but time has made some changes.

The shape is that of the hats of that period and I have not made the pinches in the crown which is 12 centimeters high at its lowest point. Felt is fantastic for its softness and surface finish.

Completely unlined, it bears the FA mark and no other indications, also because there are no paper labels under the sweatband

The brand seems to me at first sight unknown among the ones I have seen, but I will try more in depth

We see the size and Andrea's shop who sold it in Culan (a French commune of 805 inhabitants located in the Cher department in the Center-Val de Loire region).

This FA, let's call it that, is another of the summer sins considering that it is not my size, although it could almost be, but it is asking too much of such a beauty

Daniele, Great find! I really like the Form and wide Bow treatment. The condition is excellent too. Was it from a French source?

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Daniele, Great find! I really like the Form and wide Bow treatment. The condition is excellent too. Was it from a French source?

Steve thanks.
It arrives from France and I'm a little bit confused about the maker.
I think I have just see this brand, but I don't remember where and when
Maybe in the next days I will remember

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve thanks.
It arrives from France and I'm a little bit confused about the maker.
I think I have just see this brand, but I don't remember where and when
Maybe in the next days I will remember

Daniele, I think A.F. could be Antonin France Chazelles sur Lyon. This is same location as B. Fléchet Chazelles sur Lyon. I found an A.F. advertisement in a digital copy of Revue De La Chapellerie (1912) that I have.