French Hats and makers.

[Daniele Tanto]

Willoughby Prince IV G satin finish. Size 57 with the overwelt brim at 5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. This one doesn't have "fabrique a Londres" on the liner, like the previous one has and it does have a label that says "made in France". This one does seem set in its ways and doesn't like to be creased. Very soft longhair felt and the hand is outstanding. Unreeded construction. Likely intended to be shaped brim up, but it does work as a regular fedora as well.
Probably older that it looks. Interesint is that I did find a very similar hat that was named "Prince III". Also found a WIlloughby hat made by Robert Heath, so it's highly likely taht Willoughby sourced their hats from various manufacturers.

Steur a very nice find.
The Willoughby Prince IV has a great resemblance to some Tirard and Flechet that I have. Continuing the sun I will take a series of photos for you. The felt, the finish and the shape are those of two brothers born a few meters apart

 

[steur]

Steur a very nice find.
The Willoughby Prince IV has a great resemblance to some Tirard and Flechet that I have. Continuing the sun I will take a series of photos for you. The felt, the finish and the shape are those of two brothers born a few meters apart

Thank you, Daniele. It's certainly possible one of them was in fact the maker.

 

[steur]

Found this one in the digital bargain bin but it was a pleasant surprise when it arrived. Sools of Paris in grey/sand colour called Tunis. Size 55 with the brim at 5cm and the crown at 10,5 cm at the center dent. A somewhat thicker felt that needs some persuading to go where I want it. Weighs 114 grams. Some superficial moth damage, but nothing serious.
More about the actual maker in part II.

 

[steur]

Part II

Sools seems to have had a preference for this profile. Compare this hat to my other Sools hat.

Sools sourced their hats from various makers. On this one the maker is actually named: Laubin. Here's an article I found on them.

Translated:
Chapellerie Laubin (Savoie) Pont de Beauvoisin owns “M. Laubin's felt hat factory ... the oldest in Savoie”, founded in 1787 by Martin Laubin. After his death this house remains in the family: Louis Laubin (1814-1840), Martin Laubin (1840-1862), widow Laubin (1862-1870), and “Laubin frères” from 1870.

In 1875, “the industrial equipment consists of a furblower and a chainsaw (?) [illustration in insert]. These various devices work with human arms ”. In addition to 4 family members, the company employs “15 workers, 2 laborers and 2 finishers” and produces 15,000 hats per year with “450 kilos of hare hair, 850 kilos of rabbit hair, 45 kilos of nutria hair and 30 kilos of muskrat hair ”.

The factory exhibited at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1878. In 1887, the 3 Laubin brothers, Louis Joseph, Etienne Alexandre and François Marie, the latter “residing in Buenos-Ayres, Argentine Republic, (America)”, founded for 4 years a general partnership (SNC) "having as its goal the manufacture of felt hats in Pont (Savoie)" with a capital of 90,000F.

The trade union chamber of hat makers-fullers, created in 1889, comprising only 14 members, was considered dissolved in 1906, having no more activities. In 1896, Etienne Laubin, “industrial worker”, withdrew from the business to devote himself entirely to public affairs. He became mayor of Pont (Savoie) in 1900. He was a “left-wing republican ... [with] a shy, but sympathetic character”. He is “the only industrialist to support the secular school from the start ... the population designates him as the old friend of schools”.

On September 4, 1913, Mario Laubin (son of François) “asked for authorization to operate” in the Aiguenoire district “a felt hat factory”, an industry considered “dangerous, inconvenient and unhealthy”. Following the commodo et incommodo investigation, he obtained authorization on December 13, 1913 to build a steam-mechanized factory (see plan), located next to the school group (Savoie). The activity of the factory ended in 1955.

Figure 10.45: Amenneuse, Julien François Turgan, The large factories, 1878.
Figure 10.46: Etienne Laubin p256, Dictionnaire biograptique de da Savoie, 1907.
Figure 10.47: Examples of mechanized operations in a hat factory, taken from Julien François Turgan, Les grandes Usines, 1878.
Figure 10.48: Plan and location of the Laubin factory, 1911.

What has me intrigued a bit is the mention of "Hudson" underneath the Sools name on the sweatband. Mossant used that name for their hats that were made of or with beaver fur. as can be seen above Laubin didn't use beaver fur, but it could mean this hat has some nutria of muskrat fur content.
The factory didn't last after 1955 and the styling suggests an earlier hat. Thirties perhaps?

 

[steur]

Fléchet Pilote longhair finish. Size 58 but fits like a 57. Overwelt brim at 5cm and crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Unlined or I should say missing its liner or crown patch. French hats are more commonly unlined. Lovely hand to the felt and very soft and thin. Weighs 106 grams. Probably sixties.

 

[steur]

Mossant fedora in grey. More of a "camber" model really, which was quite popular in France. Colour is called "mine". Overwelt brim at 5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sold by Madelios of 10 Place the la Madeleine. Quite a high end menswear store, which closed its doors in 2010. Pics were taken when I got it yesterday. It has cleaned up nicely and has a better crease now.

 

[steur]

Mossant Castor Hudson Diplomatique or homburg if you will. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and crown at 11cm at the center dent. Classic colours with the grey felt (called "Gris australien") and contrasting ribbon and brim binding. The way the felt creases this certainly is beaver felt.

 

[steur]

Hat one of a two hat deal. The hats came from the same retailer and have some serious age to them. My guess is twenties or thirties.
Fléchet velours in black. Size 55 with the brim at 5,3 cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Gorgeous hand to the felt and luck has it that the moths didn't think it worth it. They felt a bit different about the liner apparently, because that has some holes in it. It has been sitting on the stretcher patiently and will be worn on my size 56 head. Some really nice flange to the back of the brim on this one (and the other one as well). Specially made for the retailer

Moulin-Faure of Yssingeaux.

 

[steur]

Chapeau Grataloup in black suede finish. raw edge brim at 5,7cm an the crown at 10cm at the center dent. For hat of this age it is in excellent condition.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Fléchet Pilote longhair finish. Size 58 but fits like a 57. Overwelt brim at 5cm and crown at 10,5cm at the center dent. Unlined or I should say missing its liner or crown patch. French hats are more commonly unlined. Lovely hand to the felt and very soft and thin. Weighs 106 grams. Probably sixties.

Mossant fedora in grey. More of a "camber" model really, which was quite popular in France. Colour is called "mine". Overwelt brim at 5cm and the crown at 11cm at the center dent. Sold by Madelios of 10 Place the la Madeleine. Quite a high end menswear store, which closed its doors in 2010. Pics were taken when I got it yesterday. It has cleaned up nicely and has a better crease now.

Mossant Castor Hudson Diplomatique or homburg if you will. Size 57 with the bound brim at 6cm and crown at 11cm at the center dent. Classic colours with the grey felt (called "Gris australien") and contrasting ribbon and brim binding. The way the felt creases this certainly is beaver felt.

Hat one of a two hat deal. The hats came from the same retailer and have some serious age to them. My guess is twenties or thirties.
Fléchet velours in black. Size 55 with the brim at 5,3 cm and the crown at 10cm at the center dent. Gorgeous hand to the felt and luck has it that the moths didn't think it worth it. They felt a bit different about the liner apparently, because that has some holes in it. It has been sitting on the stretcher patiently and will be worn on my size 56 head. Some really nice flange to the back of the brim on this one (and the other one as well). Specially made for the retailer

Moulin-Faure of Yssingeaux.

Chapeau Grataloup in black suede finish. raw edge brim at 5,7cm an the crown at 10cm at the center dent. For hat of this age it is in excellent condition.

Quite the treasure trove of French chapeaux, Stefan.

 

[PanosChris]

Though I bought that one over a year ago, I think it has not been posted before in this thread, so here it is.

Mossant flammand, "pur levre" in "gris bleute" color.

Many thanks to Daniele for the deal on this fantastic hat!

 

[Daniele Tanto]

Mossant flammand, "pur levre" in "gris bleute" color.

A real nice hat! Hope it was my size...

 

[Rmccamey]

I love the sheen on that felt and the great color, too.

Though I bought that one over a year ago, I think it has not been posted before in this thread, so here it is.

Mossant flammand, "pur levre" in "gris bleute" color. View attachment 305615 View attachment 305616 View attachment 305617 View attachment 305618
Many thanks to Daniele for the deal on this fantastic hat!

 

[steur]

Quite the treasure trove of French chapeaux, Stefan.

Thanks, Jonathan. I seem to have hit a new vain of French hats! Bit of a discovery for me as well.

 

[steur]

Though I bought that one over a year ago, I think it has not been posted before in this thread, so here it is.

Mossant flammand, "pur levre" in "gris bleute" color. View attachment 305615 View attachment 305616 View attachment 305617 View attachment 305618
Many thanks to Daniele for the deal on this fantastic hat!

Very nice, Panos. The felt looks great.

 

[PanosChris]

A real nice hat! Hope it was my size...

Thank you Daniele! Hopefully having it in hand for a little while paid back despite the small size

I love the sheen on that felt and the great color, too.

Thanks Randy! I am very pleased with it.

Very nice, Panos. The felt looks great.

Thanks Stefan! Looking forward to seeing more treasures from your new source

 

[steur]

Thank you Daniele! Hopefully having it in hand for a little while paid back despite the small size

Thanks Randy! I am very pleased with it.


Thanks Stefan! Looking forward to seeing more treasures from your new source

As you wish. Here's one.

 

[steur]

Thibet bowler in black. No labels inside the hat, but a size 56 with the brim at 5cm. Made for Baronnier of Nancy, France. Thibet is a brand name made by Ecuyer&Thomas. The details of this hat are wonderful, like the super tight d'Orsay curl. The felt is woolfelt however, so as smooth a finish as one would like.

Here's a pic of the shop it was sold from. Couldn't find any more history of the shop right away.

 

[Daniele Tanto]

For my love for antique French hats today I introduce you a "Thibet" hat.

A high class creation for a high social class.

What characterizes the hat is the composition of the felt which is a mixture of various and precious wools.
Made by Jean Bourrel's company, it appears on the label as JB, who has built many hats for French quality brands as a subcontractor.

I have other hats in my Thibet collection in black and the sheen of the felt, evidently in wool, has always made me think of a special composition.

I asked Fleur of Penumbra Hats her opinion and here there is the reply: "The website mentions the hats were made of merino, and while some of the older, now extint breeding lines of merino sheep certainly had very fine wool with a lustrous sheen, the felt of the Thibet hat looked and felt different to me than other Bourrel hats I have handled. My guess is that the silky quality of the felt is the result of mixing merino with mohair from the angora goat - which would in turn explain the brand name "Thibet"!"

These are the measurements of the "Thibet" hat made long before the Second World War. The raw brims are at 5.5 cm. ribbon is at 4 cm. and the high and imposing crown is 13.5 cm open. The size is a full 57.

Rare to find in these conditions these hats are a quality rarity!

 

[steur]

For my love for antique French hats today I introduce you a "Thibet" hat.
View attachment 305930
A high class creation for a high social class.
View attachment 305931
What characterizes the hat is the composition of the felt which is a mixture of various and precious wools.
Made by Jean Bourrel's company, it appears on the label as JB, who has built many hats for French quality brands as a subcontractor.
View attachment 305932
I have other hats in my Thibet collection in black and the sheen of the felt, evidently in wool, has always made me think of a special composition.
View attachment 305933
I asked Fleur of Penumbra Hats her opinion and here there is the reply: "The website mentions the hats were made of merino, and while some of the older, now extint breeding lines of merino sheep certainly had very fine wool with a lustrous sheen, the felt of the Thibet hat looked and felt different to me than other Bourrel hats I have handled. My guess is that the silky quality of the felt is the result of mixing merino with mohair from the angora goat - which would in turn explain the brand name "Thibet"!"
View attachment 305934
These are the measurements of the "Thibet" hat made long before the Second World War. The raw brims are at 5.5 cm. ribbon is at 4 cm. and the high and imposing crown is 13.5 cm open. The size is a full 57.
View attachment 305935
Rare to find in these conditions these hats are a quality rarity!

Very nice, Daniele. Great find in such a fabulous condition.