Freewheelers leather jackets

[whorishconsumer]

I asked Corlection about the measurements on a Freewheeler's Mulholland in size 44 and they gave the following. There was miscommunication in the request so the manner in which they measure the sleeve in the photo is not how I would typically do it, but they also gave the measurement shoulder to cuff (I assume straight measurement). This is for the 2021 version, I believe, or, the latest stock of Mulhollands they received.

Shoulder measured across the back, seam to seam: 20" - But note there's some slack in the tape, so probably closer to 21"
("When measured from the front, the shoulder is 19.3”")

Sleeve measured in the manner in the photograph: 23.3"
("If measured from the top of the shoulder seam to cuff, the measurement is 24.8”")

Back length from base of collar: 25.5"

Front length from base of collar: 27.6"

I didn't ask for chest, because it seems pretty consistent that it's around 46" for a size 44, if not greater. Supposedly tapers to a slim waist (~44), but I haven't seen confirmed measurements on that.

 

[Brandrea33]

I asked Corlection about the measurements on a Freewheeler's Mulholland in size 44 and they gave the following. There was miscommunication in the request so the manner in which they measure the sleeve in the photo is not how I would typically do it, but they also gave the measurement shoulder to cuff (I assume straight measurement). This is for the 2021 version, I believe, or, the latest stock of Mulhollands they received.

Shoulder measured across the back, seam to seam: 20" - But note there's some slack in the tape, so probably closer to 21"
("When measured from the front, the shoulder is 19.3”")

Sleeve measured in the manner in the photograph: 23.3"
("If measured from the top of the shoulder seam to cuff, the measurement is 24.8”")

Back length from base of collar: 25.5"

Front length from base of collar: 27.6"

I didn't ask for chest, because it seems pretty consistent that it's around 46" for a size 44, if not greater. Supposedly tapers to a slim waist (~44), but I haven't seen confirmed measurements on that.

I can confirm that those measurements are pretty close to what I received as a 2021 model.

 

[ton312]

^The leather on that does not look very good to me at all. Could be the light but it looks cheap.

 

[whorishconsumer]

^The leather on that does not look very good to me at all. Could be the light but it looks cheap.

Hope you wore your protective gear today

 

[Marc mndt]

^The leather on that does not look very good to me at all. Could be the light but it looks cheap.

I wouldn't say cheap but I agree that it doesn't look all that special. Here's a pic of three shinki swatches in different finishes. The upper two are full aniline, the one on the top has a thin topcoat. These are the types FL (Field Leathers) use. The one on the bottom is what FW use, teacore with a thick and stiff top coating. It's hard to tell from the pic but it lacks character imo.

 

[whorishconsumer]

I wouldn't say cheap but I agree that it doesn't look all that special. Here's a pic of three shinki swatches in different finishes. The upper two are full aniline, the one on the top has a thin topcoat. These are the types FL use. The one on the bottom is what FW use, teacore with a thick and stiff top coating. It's hard to tell from the pic but it lacks character imo.

View attachment 364969

FL?

 

[Brandrea33]

FL?

Field Leathers

https://fieldleathers.com/

 

[ton312]

Hope you wore your protective gear today

I’ve been around long enough and seen enough to stand my ground

 

[whorishconsumer]

I’ve been around long enough and seen enough to stand my ground

Btw you seem to find good vintage finds. Ever see anything that equates the Mulholland, which is to say more moto less half-belt?

 

[ton312]

Btw you seem to find good vintage finds. Ever see anything that equates the Mulholland, which is to say more moto less half-belt?

The Mulholand is essentially just a modernized Cal Ventura. They aren't terribly rare but they are arguably the coolest vintage CHP you can find.

 

[Jin431]

I wouldn't say cheap but I agree that it doesn't look all that special. Here's a pic of three shinki swatches in different finishes. The upper two are full aniline, the one on the top has a thin topcoat. These are the types FL (Field Leathers) use. The one on the bottom is what FW use, teacore with a thick and stiff top coating. It's hard to tell from the pic but it lacks character imo.

View attachment 364969

maybe similar but I don't thinks that's it. the black vintage shinki is black on the top coat and black on the underside flesh (hand painted maybe?? Who knows) but has a light brown middle core, it feels oiled/waxed to me.

 

[Jin431]

Btw you seem to find good vintage finds. Ever see anything that equates the Mulholland, which is to say more moto less half-belt?

like what @ton312 said

Cal CHP on the left. FW Mulholland on the right.

 

[ton312]

like what @ton312 said

View attachment 365006

Cal CHP on the left. FW Mulholland on the right.

This beautifully illustrates why I love both jackets. The FW does all the little things I wish the CAL would do. It typifies the repro modus operandi…Just those slight adjustments on classic patterns that make them more wearable. While I think the collar on the FW is super nicely done, the CAL slays it. If they could tweak that…it would be even better. Beautiful pair Jin!

 

[Marc mndt]

maybe similar but I don't thinks that's it. the black vintage shinki is black on the top coat and black on the underside flesh (hand painted maybe?? Who knows) but has a light brown middle core, it feels oiled/waxed to me.

This swatch feels totally dry so your right it's probably different.

 

[whorishconsumer]

The Mulholand is essentially just a modernized Cal Ventura. They aren't terribly rare but they are arguably the coolest vintage CHP you can find.

like what @ton312 said

View attachment 365006

Cal CHP on the left. FW Mulholland on the right.

The California style Highwayman or Ventura jacket are more cropped, no? In addition to the half belt, arcuates and sometimes gussets?

 

[sweetfights]

^The leather on that does not look very good to me at all. Could be the light but it looks cheap.

In person it is “glorious”!

 

[ton312]

The California style Highwayman or Ventura jacket are more cropped, no? In addition to the half belt, arcuates and sometimes gussets?

They are but they were also subject to customization. You could get one padded, etc.. The Mulholland is simply a reworked interpretation of a classic American police jacket made by Cal, Langlitz and others. There are tweaks to the fit and pattern of course. But the inspiration is quite clear.

 

[Jin431]

This beautifully illustrates why I love both jackets. The FW does all the little things I wish the CAL would do. It typifies the repro modus operandi…Just those slight adjustments on classic patterns that make them more wearable. While I think the collar on the FW is super nicely done, the CAL slays it. If they could tweak that…it would be even better. Beautiful pair Jin!

Thanks brother, gotta love that spread collar. FW really elevated the classic Cal pattern so it's more refined and using shinki also helps but if a Cal has all the right measurements (or even close to it) for me then I would not hesitate getting more. I still want a brown straight zip Cal and padded Cal

This swatch feels totally dry so your right it's probably different.

i think I read somewhere before that FW (or whoever sew their jackets) hand finishes their hides but I'm thinking maybe they also specify a certain tannage from the tannery so it's not readily available to be bought on the market. the full aniline is too different from the two but what I can tell from comparing the black teacore v FW vintage black is that they have similar grain but the outer finish is very different with the oily/waxy finish of the vintage black which is also much thicker/heavier, the black teacore seems to be the stiffer of the two even though it's thinner/lighter.

The California style Highwayman or Ventura jacket are more cropped, no? In addition to the half belt, arcuates and sometimes gussets?

it looks that way because the jacket is 1 size too big on me and it's intended to be a shorter jacket since it's worn as a motorcycle police jacket. the Cal CHP I have and most likely all police jackets are custom sized, so the guy who had it before probably has 15-20 lbs on me as I don't think they have bullet proof vest in the 40s-50s yet. they do not have half belt backs, the ones I've seen either have a single upper back western yoke or shoulder gussets sometimes a combination of gussets/western yoke. sometimes there's even padded/quilted shoulder/elbows albeit in a cross zip but it will look equally cool in a straight zip

In person it is “glorious”!

Agreed, it is glorious. the shine should go away with wear and look more matte like how uneven the finish on my brown jacket is now.

 

[JMax]

Very clear which jacket FW looked at when making the Mulholland.

Sort of off topic, but the only vtg makers I can recall that built police jackets with the horizontal stitching from the top of the handwarmer pockets are— SG/Cal, Al’s, Langlitz, Leather MFG Co, Seattle Woolen, and California Sportswear. Anyone else? There has to be.

 

[Jin431]

Very clear which jacket FW looked at when making the Mulholland.

Sort of off topic, but the only vtg makers I can recall that built police jackets with the horizontal stitching from the top of the handwarmer pockets are— SG/Cal, Al’s, Langlitz, Leather MFG Co, Seattle Woolen, and California Sportswear. Anyone else? There has to be.

i always like that design more in a straight zip, kinda looks awkward in a cross zip since it's uneven looking. is that stitching there to keep the pocket lining in place?