Hey guys,
So this happened, and it is blowing my mind so hard that i had to share it with my fellow leather freaks.
This jacket is insane, everything about it is on another level from anything i have handled before.
The leather is Rude black horsehide, i would describe it as a mix between black CXL and Lewis Leathers cow. It has the same close look as grainy CXL, somewhat thinner, but with a smoothness similar to the leather of my LL. (no CXL waxiness at all)
It is a "black on grey" leather, from handling it a few days, it looks like the topcoat will wear faster than average and show the grey undercoat. It is already showing where the belt rubs on the buckle and it really is grey, not the blueish tone you see on worn Schott or LL.
The construction is perfect, and in mean PERFECT! In 99% of jackets if you look hard enough you can find what i like to call "oops" moments, not necessarily defects but things that the machinist probably wish he/she hadn't done... This one has nothing, it is literally stitch perfect.
The stitch count is insanely high/tight, insanely even, perfectly straight, it's like it was laser stitched, i had literally not seen anything like that before. The flat triple seams are perfectly aligned and parallel, every folded seam is perfectly evenly pulled, zippers are perfectly centered, threads are perfectly trimmed, there wasn't one single sewing machine scratch anywhere on the jacket, it feels like not a single unwanted/unplanned thing happened during the construction of this jacket.
It really feels like a masterpiece!
The design is great, very simple, but full of small interesting details everywhere, the spots on the sleeves, the cuffs with the windflaps instead of gussets and the anti-scratch pads glued on the zippers (never seen that before!), the throat latch, the hidden pocket, the lining that follows the same panel construction as the leather shell, the great repro label, it's like they really tried to nail every small detail that only the most OCD people would worry about.
Fit wise i am happy, the pattern is similar to my chevalier (same underarm gussets and arm shape) the body is definitely on the short side, but i think it works and looks good. The shoulders are surprisingly wide for the size of the jacket, it is extremely V shaped, with wide shoulders, thin waist, and short body compared to arms.
The arms have a very comfortable shape, with a strong curvature, added to the wide shoulders it feels very comfortable sitting with your arms forward in a motorcycle position.
Sitting down, front, back and arms feel the perfect length, and a longer body would have actually been a pain as the drop front would have definitely made the jacket ride up a little.
All in all, i have really nothing bad to say, this jacket is everything i hoped it would be and more. For me this is as good as it gets, i might even be done with my leather search!
The jacket was ordered from Japan, (the rising/mirror ball) and i have nothing bad to say about them, they were quick to answer my questions, removed japanese tax from the price without being asked, and shipped as a present within a day of receiving payment. Expect google translate English, but they get it done.
Now, pictures:
And fit pics:
If anyone wants them measurements are in this thread:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/
So this happened, and it is blowing my mind so hard that i had to share it with my fellow leather freaks.
This jacket is insane, everything about it is on another level from anything i have handled before.
The leather is Rude black horsehide, i would describe it as a mix between black CXL and Lewis Leathers cow. It has the same close look as grainy CXL, somewhat thinner, but with a smoothness similar to the leather of my LL. (no CXL waxiness at all)
It is a "black on grey" leather, from handling it a few days, it looks like the topcoat will wear faster than average and show the grey undercoat. It is already showing where the belt rubs on the buckle and it really is grey, not the blueish tone you see on worn Schott or LL.
The construction is perfect, and in mean PERFECT! In 99% of jackets if you look hard enough you can find what i like to call "oops" moments, not necessarily defects but things that the machinist probably wish he/she hadn't done... This one has nothing, it is literally stitch perfect.
The stitch count is insanely high/tight, insanely even, perfectly straight, it's like it was laser stitched, i had literally not seen anything like that before. The flat triple seams are perfectly aligned and parallel, every folded seam is perfectly evenly pulled, zippers are perfectly centered, threads are perfectly trimmed, there wasn't one single sewing machine scratch anywhere on the jacket, it feels like not a single unwanted/unplanned thing happened during the construction of this jacket.
It really feels like a masterpiece!
The design is great, very simple, but full of small interesting details everywhere, the spots on the sleeves, the cuffs with the windflaps instead of gussets and the anti-scratch pads glued on the zippers (never seen that before!), the throat latch, the hidden pocket, the lining that follows the same panel construction as the leather shell, the great repro label, it's like they really tried to nail every small detail that only the most OCD people would worry about.
Fit wise i am happy, the pattern is similar to my chevalier (same underarm gussets and arm shape) the body is definitely on the short side, but i think it works and looks good. The shoulders are surprisingly wide for the size of the jacket, it is extremely V shaped, with wide shoulders, thin waist, and short body compared to arms.
The arms have a very comfortable shape, with a strong curvature, added to the wide shoulders it feels very comfortable sitting with your arms forward in a motorcycle position.
Sitting down, front, back and arms feel the perfect length, and a longer body would have actually been a pain as the drop front would have definitely made the jacket ride up a little.
All in all, i have really nothing bad to say, this jacket is everything i hoped it would be and more. For me this is as good as it gets, i might even be done with my leather search!
The jacket was ordered from Japan, (the rising/mirror ball) and i have nothing bad to say about them, they were quick to answer my questions, removed japanese tax from the price without being asked, and shipped as a present within a day of receiving payment. Expect google translate English, but they get it done.
Now, pictures:
And fit pics:
If anyone wants them measurements are in this thread:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-leather-jacket-database.93804/
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